Any ideas on the weight of the belly pan on a 1991 Td8g dozer? Hints on how to lower it are greatly appreciated. Thanks Brandon_M
I never trust belly pan weights because they often have a few inches of heavy packed down dirt on them. Which pan are you talking about? If I remember correctly there's 2, one under the engine, one under the rear. I work out of a pickup without a crane, so I usually use 2 chain come alongs, one on the front one on the rear, hooked to the outside edge of the track shoes, sometimes you can get by with one, but two makes it easier to line it up when working by yourself. If you have a crane, you can run a chain sling under the belly of the machine. I'd avoid using nylon slings because the edges can cut them.
You're right there's 2. I need to drop the front 1 under the engine. I don't have a service truck, but I do have a couple of chain ratchets that I could use.
We use a floor jack. Jack it up tight to the pan ,loosen the bolts .get out from underneath and let it down. I think it's easier than two chain falls .
I used the bottle jack method to drop them and comealongs to raise them. I would say they're about 200 lbs.
The weight and getting it up and down isn't that big of an issue on those, I prefer a floor jack and plywood if working by myself. The problem can be getting the holes lined back up if it is sprung from being hit to much, that can make it a chore! Walking it up on some timbers helps with getting a little more room to work also
I agree JPV, floor jack is idea, I just don't often find myself on a surface smooth enough to where a floor jack isn't just an aggravating pain in the tail to deal with lol. Another thing to consider is, whatever method you use to support it, make sure it's holding the pan before you even take the first bolt out, I've seen broke belly pan bolts with the heads still stuck in the holes from caked dirt. and don't rely on the hinges, I've encountered many a pan where a lazy tech had torched them off previously, had a buddy bout lose a hand because of one.
I have used a floor jack on a sheet of plywood. Also have a couple of 10 inch long bolts with the same thread as the belly pan bolts - bolt heads cut off and shank tapered slightly . When re fitting put the modified bolts in two of the holes, lose so the can move around slightly and use them to re-aligh the pan as you lift it. Also helps keep it from falling sideways as you jack it back up. If pan bent/distorted measure across and diagonals of fixing holes in chassis. Take pan to a workshop with a BIG hydraulic press and press it back to match measurements.
I have used a floor jack on a sheet of plywood. Also have a couple of 10 inch long bolts with the same thread as the belly pan bolts - bolt heads cut off and shank tapered slightly . When re fitting put the modified bolts in two of the holes, lose so the can move around slightly and use them to re-aligh the pan as you lift it. Also helps keep it from falling sideways as you jack it back up. If pan bent/distorted measure across and diagonals of fixing holes in chassis. Take pan to a workshop with a BIG hydraulic press and press it back to match measurements.
Yair . . . . Around here that would be pain in the arse and cost a mint. Almost invariably belly guards are splayed outwards from bottoming out on stumps and rocks. As Logbridge mentions, take a measurement across the chassis and pull them back to dimension with come-a-long or a turn buckle, block the pan up on dunnage as high as possible, drive machine over the guard and lift into place with a jack. Provided you have it within a few inches of height it doesn't matter if it lifts uneven, as soon as the flanges contact the underside of the chassis (even with the jack well off centre where you can get at it) the guard will lift into place. It's not dangerous if done properly. . . but, as I have mentioned on other threads, a decent set of hinges makes life easier. Cheers.