Hi. We have two 82-20B dozers, and I am looking for any information regarding the rear drive sprockets. Does anyone know where,I can find any? I also heard of other guys converting the original ring into cat type segments. Both our machines have had caterpillar D7 rollers and chain adapted to them.Any help guys?
If you've already converted that much of the U/C then I would change the segments over as well and be done with it
The problem I'm getting with converting to segments is that the bolt ring has to be removed and a new one welded on. The hub that the bolt ring has to be welded to is cast iron, and the ring is steel and I don't know if it is possible to weld.
are you sure it's cast iron and not cast steel?
terex 20B , i was lead to believe that the cat D7 segments would bolt into the same terex bolt holes and the only modification you had to do was lath or grind down the outside of the hub
We have a few cat D7 segments laying around, and to lathe it down it needs to be cut about 1 inch. The problem is that the whole hub assembly probley wheighs around 600 LBS and is about 3 feet across. I don't know of a machine shop around here that could do it. I think the best thing to do is just find terex sprockets. PLEASE,PLEASE,PLEASE,anyone know where to find any!!!! Thnxs for the input guys!!!!
Are the sprockets worn beyond rebuilding? I believe there are still companies that make weld in sprocket liners.
Terex dozer drive sprockets: terex 20B, the fellow that we bought our 82-30 from, said he had just put a new Berco undercarriage under it... which was true. But I can't remember if the sprockets were segmented, or not. Here's their web site: http://www.berco.com/ OCR
Try Berco first. The pieces may be Ductile Iron depending o\upon the age of the machine, but more than likely cast steel. If it is cast steel, you should be able to weld it depending upon the chemistry. Low Carbon, go to it. Medium Carbon, going to have to preheat. High Carbon, you will have to preheat and check for correct rod to use on it. Machining the big pieces mentioned above would be bloody expensive too. Good luck with it.
Thnxs for all the help guys. Tommorow I'll try and get a hold of Berco, and see what they have available. It's pretty amazing that no one makes a sprocket for terex machines any more. In Canada there are'nt a whole lot of machines like ours still in service,but down in the US there still should be Quite a few around. Our track supplier deals with a lot of jobber companies and can't find anything.
I have seen our guys in the shop face up D 155 sprocket hubs that had been run with loose segments and what they did was weld a lathe tool holder to the track frame and with the machine on blocks fire it up and in 2nd fw and at idle revs let the dozer do the turning. Worked well didnt even have to take off the track frames or final drives, cant see why something similar couldnt be rigged up to turn down 82 20 hubs, sure saved a lot of time. Just my 2 cents worth.
Terex dozer drive sprockets: That's one dang smart idea... :thumbsup :thumbsup OCR
I have never worked on this this machine but I did check availability on the sprockets and found nothing. I did find out that the aftermarket sprockets for this machine haven't been sold in around 10 years. I would weld them up if possible.
we have an 82-30 we caan't find sprockets for. if you find a place would love to know. good luck.
wnydirtguy, I think it's beginning to look like there are none available. I found an older guy a few hours south of where I live that has a whole bunch of terex machines (two 82-20's,two 82-30's,and an 82-40) I talked to him and he somehow managed to convert his machines to segments,with out any more tools than a typical farm shop. I'm going to look how he did it in a couple of weeks and I'll take some pics,and get some more info and try posting the info.
Try RECO Equipment. They have a lot of Terex parts on the shelf.866-732-6902
Good luck i couldnt find any so we converted over to cat D7 sprockets and trackes. we had to change the bolt pattern but other than that it was pretty easy.
http://www.google.com/#hl=en&source=hp&q=terex+undercarriage+parts&aq=f&aqi=&oq=&fp=7da014c016d00ed9 and http://www.google.com/#hl=en&q=terex+82-20+undercarriage+parts&aq=f&aqi=&oq=&fp=7da014c016d00ed9 and http://images.google.com/images?hl=...rex+undercarriage+parts&aq=f&oq=&aqi=&start=0 Reco Equipment http://www.recoequip.com/terex.htm?gclid=CJDI3_f6hKACFRAeDQodNgJYdQ Start searching...hope this helps. If you know the part numbers you can do a search for parts on Machinerytrader.com too.
Hi. We actually found a set of used segments off of a D7R and drilled new holes and bolted them on. The segments off of any other D7's wouldn't work bacause the flange on the segment is centered. The terex sprockets have an offset bolt flange thus bringing the sprocket closer to the machine. The 7R had an offset bolt flange, and as far as we can tell they will only have a quarter of an inch of variation in where the sprocket sits in the chain. We also had to space each segment a quarter of an inch apart, so after they were bolted on I welded all the segments together, where they joined. This is all untested right at the moment as my wife had a baby boy on Friday so hopefully this week we'll try it out let you all know!!!!!!
I dont no for sure but a guy told me today that you can use sprockets off a kamatsu and d7 tracks. He works at a cat shop.
SO terex 20b.....What is the result of your efforts with the D7R sprocket segments??? I have an 82-20B and am in the need of doingsomething and am really interested. I live just east of edmonton and my email is [email protected] Any info would be great!
Check this site out. Here is a set. http://vancouver.kijiji.ca/c-cars-v...ccessories-Terex-Sprockets-W0QQAdIdZ207387381
thanks!
The picture looks the same as deere sprockets- a 850 uses 8' CAT TRACKS , but there own sprockets - which is a 27 tooth, i think yours used a 28 tooth I have no idea if they would work just an observation
The 82-40 had a 36 inch diameter sprocket , these do not appear to meet that size. The Part number would be 9204566. These are probably for an 82-20.
tuff decision 4000 for the two sprockets and still i need new rails... I can get new D7R segments for $350 a side and just redrill the holes...you can get alot of machining for 3000$ The is the ole girl ever packs her in I can always resell the rails. I think he wants way too much $$$ for them. I offered him 2000$ for the both...and he refused... Just not willing to part with 4000 for two sprockets. the really sad thing about them old terex cats is that they are great dozers...but it costs 15000 to 20000 for a new undercarriage and they are only worth 10-15 grand with or without a good undercarriage. very tuff decision to make....sure wish that fellow that used D7r segment would write back telling how that went....guess he is still to busy playing with his new baby...and really, i do not blame him...I have 6 kids and wished I would have spent more time with them when they were little gaffers!
they still sell the 82-20 sprockets the 82-30 sprockets you have to weld on a new ring if you have switched to cat undercarrage you can use 235 cat excavator rings
Before you weld that tool bit to the track frame I would check to see if the sprocket rings are actually running true. You can do this by snapping a dial indicator gage on the surface and then slowly turn the faces either under power or manually if you can and note the T.I.R. (Total Indicated Runout) If those surfaces are more than I would say 64th of an inch out of TIR (wobble) then I would give serious second thought to using the tool bit idea. your tool bit will cut heavy on one side and light on the other causing your sprockets to be welded on surfaces that are not true causing premature wear to the sprocket surface and links. Think of it this way.......... when you go to get a new set of tires put on your vehicle, and your vehicle is out of alignment on one tire, that tire will scrub, cup or in general wear off in certain places first until it is bad enough that you have to replace them. It is the same with sprockets and links. And on a second note as I was thinking this process through, a question comes to mind about how would one intend to "feed" the toolbit into the "work" As having experience in the machining end of things I can tell you that trying to cut all that metal with one single pass will end up snapping the bit, even with carbide on your bit. When the bit snaps it will gouge the parent material and end up leaving a problem spot for you to fix buy cutting deeper than you intended. The bit will always pull deeper into the machined surface. If I may make some suggestions along this line, find a suitable solid seperatesurface to mount one of those cross slide drill press vises on, and make your cuts that way. make sure your tool bit is held in the vise firmly and use small cuts to alleviate chatter in the vise and cutting tool. If you need a square edge then you will need what is called a BR carbide roughing bit and for finish cuts you will need an AR bit. The BR is got a relief angle in the shape of the bit for the purpose of relieving cutting stresses, and the AR style will leave you with a square shoulder when finished. Also stay away from chinese made carbide bits, they are not made to handle the abrasive cutting that you will encounter you will need a C6 grade of carbide or harder preferrably American made, Valenite, makes a real good grade of carbide toolbit in case you are wondering. And last but not least turn those surfaces as slowly as you can and be gentle on the feeding in of the bit. Carbide is made to run efficiently at high surface feet per minute rates but anyone doing this will undoubtedly notice that it takes a good solid base to keep things from chattering and cutting irregularly. My final thought to this..........yeah it could possibly work, and yeah it may come out alright, but there is a high degree of risk involved which could send to you to the scrap yard after new parts. A better plan of action is if you do not have a machine shop in the area that has a Lathe with a swing large enough to handle the setup, ask them if they have a milling machine with a rotary table, A good machinist can find the center of the casting easy enough , clamp it in the rotary table and using an end mill, can machine the surface that you need in less than a day or so.:my2c
How did that work out? I'm about to buy one of maybe two or thre 82-20's here in Sweden. But the tracks are worn out, but I hate to see the old girl get cut up for scrap. I need to save it! /Peter
Yair . . . following up on Monte1255's #28 post. When doing this type of "make do" machining rather than a lathe tool I have had more success substituting a well mounted angle grinder. It helps if you can utilise some form of cross slide as Monte mentions. Once you have the surface running smooth and true you can finish with light faster cuts with a carbide tool if that's your inclination. Over the years I have used this technique for finishing various assemblys such as trawler winch drums, sawdust blowers and such like . . . where I could spin them on well adjusted bearings. One four foot diameter sawdust blower was running ten mill. out of true due to the welding but we trued it up with a mounted ten inch grinder in a couple of hours. Cheers.
ok I know the 235 cat excavator sprockets are 9 '' pitch and we have 9 inch on our 82-30's we are thinking of having them water jet the rins and then welding them on I am not so shure if thats a good thing i know the water jet table is within an 1/8 th inch how did the segments work out on the 82-20? 2 of our tractors have the full rings and the planetary bolts on top of them and the C 6 we can change to D-8 segments from what i have found and i talked to a guy that has 6 stes of 8 inch pitch sprockets for the 30's but at 1200 a peice i think it's a lil much it's time to find a better way to get parts for these green machines