I'm trying to figure out whether the problem is due to the solenoid or the forward or reverse switch lever unit itself. Once the tractor is in reverse, it can't get out of reverse. When I switch the lever to the forward position, it goes into reverse. Sometimes when I set it to neutral for a few seconds, it may engage forward but it's rare. What I've had to do was to depress the forward valve to engage the forward drive. if I remove the reverse solenoid, i'm able to go into forward drive....but now I can't go into reverse because I just disconnected the reverse solenoid. http://www.photoshop.com/users/west...bf3a3d0/view#ad32a1e109564cdea76b500310fe5a5a http://www.photoshop.com/users/westladog/assets/30aab02ed9744ae982e26bedd4098fb7 (depress the hole to get into forward) summary: 1. Forward--->Neutral- Forward (no problem) 2. Forward---->Neutral-Reverse (reverse works)--->neutral-->Forward (goes in reverse!) - to get out of reverse, depress the Forward amature with a small screw driver Observations: Since the Forward/Reverse is controlled by the solenoids, when the tractor is put in the Reverse position, the reverse solenoid is "energized" thus creating a magnetic field around the area. Hence, acting as a small magnet, a small is able to attached to the reverse valve next to the solenoid. When I can't get into forward, both the reverse and forward valves becomes a magnet. What should happen if forward works is that the Forward side would become magnetize while the Reverse is not. When the forward doesn't work, I notice a weak magnet from the forward and a stronger magnet from the reverse! Hence both are energized. The questions is whether the solenoid or switch is not working?
Guys? Any experts out there?
Don't know a thing about Terexs but I have worked on those valves a little bit. They're common but I can't remember what they're called. Testing a switch is easy with a helper. You already know which side is which, so ground your test light and stab a wire at the valve. The striped one is probably the hot. Have your helper move the switch and see if the light comes on. If not try the other wire. This is the backyard way, somebody prabably has a better way. If your having to push the spool manually it sound like it's stickin due to gunk or a piece of crap. Or if there's a lot of hours on it- it's probably worn out. There about $250 new here in Seattle. Haven't had much luck trying to free them up.
Oh- and there is a screw on those plastic conectors, make sure it's tight. It's also worth a try to take the screws out and unplug them and plug them back in incase there's a bad connection.
$250? Where? I just called the local dealer and they quoted me almost $700!
At that price you'd want to be sure that's the problem. Also someone here probably has worked on a Terex. The problem could be somewhere else because I think that value is a pilot control. They usually control a spool at the main valve bank. Don't freak, it could be something simple. Did you see if the switches were working? I bought one of those valves about 3 years ago from PSM corp in Woodinville WA. I know it was under $300 back then. PSM You could also try HPF They are mile away from PSM. Just about all grapple manufacturers in our area use that valve for rotating the bucket. They are also used to opperate hydraulic thumbs. Like I said- common. I'll go check a parts book.....
That's a Vickers solenoid operated control valve, possibly a 4 way. That tag in the center of it should give you the Vickers parts number and possibly the valve hyd schematic. This first thing I would do would be switch the Deutch connectors at the valve and see if the problem operates in the opposite direction, like goes in forward and won't come out.
I talked to the local Hitachi/Deere dealer. "Vickers" - $324 Parker version- $355 Subplate if needed - $57 Unless it's a different valve of somekind. you might want to keep looking- if it's the valve.
That's cheap compare to $700 I was quoted. Got a phone number that I can call? I took a connector out and this is what I saw.... Vickers G 507847
Pape' Machinery I'l send you a PM with contact name.
Thank you so much!
You're welcom. Hope it works out.
These are two observations that I'm getting stuck at. IMO, before you go and replace the solenoid valve, I think I would switch the electrical connections on the coils and see if the valve now works/malfunctions in the opposite direction. Just a thought.
On the end of those two solenoids there is a hole in the plastic nut that keeps them on , get a small screw driver and push in wards . If this don’t move in they are stuck in place.