I bought a Terex PT100 Forestry at auction. Owner was in the middle of putting in new engine but passed away. I can't find a dealer anywhere close. Ones listed don't admit to handling anything but rock crushers etc but not skids. I don't even know what year it is. Two plates I found have PIN #, Serial #, Model but no year. I know on tractors, a serial number crosses to a year made, is it the same for these? I have engine in and running but have found numerous small issues. I can't find where heater hoses hook up. I found a video about something else but saw what looked like two places behind the water pump but their fuel pump was lower and mine is high up where their hookups were. There were numerous wires torn. One I think is a temperature sensor that has 5v on it all the time but even when the ignition is off? I figured out most of the rest but... This leads me to another issue. It has a parasitic draw of 1.2 amps with everything off. It has this before I started on the wiring. I noticed it when I first hooked up the battery. I'm changing a bad hydraulic return hose from the coller to the pump so I can't run it right now. I'd at least like to know the year as I am missing some parts. Air intake end cap, the upper precleaner, all the skid plates, the fuse box cover, air conditioner brackets and I'll probably notice more as I go. I've called a few salvage yards but nobody has any of these. Online parts store prices on this stuff is expensive and I'm not even sure I can get the intake cap. Any ideas on how to find out information, cheaper parts and someplace that can work on this when I get into something over my head? I'm already thinking I made a mistake buying this. This is my first skid steer. I was hoping to forestry mulch my overgrown acres and had read this was a good machine for that but with no dealer support, I'm about to put it up for sale and get a Deere since there's 5 Deere dealers within 30 miles of me. This should be a good machine once back together fully. Only 2300 hours, new engine etc. I just don't want to get in too deep with no backup. Thanks in advance.
This is all you need. A year model will do nothing for you or the dealer/manufacturer. Terex dealer support isn't great, if you can even find one. They are some of the most expensive parts across all manufacturers. Can you post some pics of it?
I'll try to get some pictures tomorrow. I got the hydraulic hose changed but found another leak at a connection buried up deep and can't get a wrench on it. One of the fan blades is missing a chunk causing it to be out of balance so it vibrates at high rpm. Online wants a few hundred just for the blade & whole fan is $6k!!!! (Auto reverse system) Is a newer model G fan the same? It's a lot cheaper. What I thought was a temp sensor wire is actually oil pressure wire. Still has 5v all the time even with ignition off. I haven't found the actual oil pressure sensor yet due to lack of time but assume it's near the filter? Found plugs instead of nipples for heater hoses so will get that fixed soon. Can someone tell me how long the loader safety lock is. I'm missing mine and they want $300 for it. Looks like just channel with a couple pins. Judging from the mount, I'm guessing 2"x3"x28"? I'm going to need to raise the boom and tilt back cab to try and reach the leaking fitting so need to lock the loader up. I ordered the intake filter assembly, fuse box cover, alternator diode, fan guard today. I need to do something about the fan soon though. I plan on chasing more wires tomorrow. This engine has 3 temperature sensors installed but I only see one in the schematic diagram. ????? I have a coolant leak on the passenger side somewhere but can't see it. It's farther back than the water pump. What is back farther that I can check. (Praying it's not a head or intake gasket) (no water in oil and no smoke, just dripping outside) I read ASV & Terex merged then CAT bought them out? So would CAT know about/work on these? I'm in my 60s and not as flexible as I used to be. Getting to some of this stuff hurts. I can do wiring and easy to reach things but these blind spots are a killer.
Here is a picture of when I first got it home. Door and engine cover etc are in the back of the truck.
You could call your local Cat dealer and ask. Terex makes some decent equipment...........their parts and service support is what destroys them. If you can get parts, they will be super expensive from them.
I work on and operate ASV / Terex track loaders. PT30, RT40 mostly. (Had a real lemon PT60.) Belly pans hold all kinds of surprises and no one ever cleans them out. The safety solenoids, resolver block, etc usually suffer the most in the mud. The ignition key can sometimes be the root cause of the parasitic draw. I’ve seen more than once where the operator will tip the machine forward and brace himself from falling by smashing the key in the ignition. If your Fuse block and relays are in the engine compartment (not familiar with the PT100 Forest) they are suspect too. Dirt and vibration. Get the issues fixed, and you’ll have a strong machine. And pre-emissions too! Work safe.
Cat only used the suspension off the ASV line. ASV and the terex rigs are pretty much the same, I think you will find more parts available for the ASV versions. Terex didn't make many. The Cat man would probably work on them, but you would likely be better just finding a local heavy equipment independent mechanic.
On the parasitic draw... Found if I disconnect the tach wire from the alternator, the draw vanishes. With the wire on, I have 12 Volts at the hour meter and tach with ignition off. Disconnect the wire at the alternator and they go to zero. Now here's the weird part, when I measure the "B" post on the alternator the wire hooks to, it reads 3 volts, not 12 Volts. ???? It shouldn't read anything with ignition off but even wit the 3 volts, I don't understand how it is stepping up to 12 V when the wire is hooked up but the wire is zero disconnected. I've seen bad alternators with a bad diode that caused parasitic draws but I don't recall the symptoms as far as voltages and they were on cars. I proved the temperature gauge is good but I can't get it to read grounding out any of the potential wires near the engine. I'm wondering if that is why he had a direct read gauge hooked up under the engine compartment. Must be a broken wire somewhere. Anyone know where the engine bay to cab connector for the wire harness is?? Still don't know why there are 2 electric temperature sensors though and schematic only shows one. I have a mystery wire that when I tried to measure the amps, it blew the 15 Amp fuel injection pump fuse. Since the injection and fuel pump were working and engine ran, I suspect it might be the shared wire going to "Cold Start Adv"??? What does that stand for, what does it do and where might I find it? Here is the schematic showing it highlighted. Are there any other message boards that might have more Terex/ASV owners/mechanics on it?
For your used parts needs, I would head over to machinery trader, and look under "dismantled machines". Theres terex ones and also asv machines. You're going to have to do some calling and looking, but that goes with getting a obsolete brand of equipment. https://www.machinerytrader.com/listings/search?ModelGroup=POSI-TRACK&Manufacturer=ASV&Condition=DISMANTLED&page=2 https://www.machinerytrader.com/listings/dismantled-machines/terex/pt100/construction-equipment
One other "Dumb Question". I run Rotella in all my diesel engines but the manual for this says to use 10W-30 for the engine. It's a Perkins 1104C-44T What oil should I run in it since I don't think they make a Rotella in 10-30 that I have seen around here. I have an old Deere gas tractor that runs Mobil Delvac 10W-30 but that is a gas engine, not diesel. When I searched past threads, nobody gave a good answer. People were confusing hydraulic oil with engine oil, giving generic answers etc. Does anyone know what brand/mix to use in this?
The cold start timing advance was on a chipper with Perkins Engine I worked on. Believe it changes injection pump timing for start up. The battery post on the alternator should read exactly the same voltage as the starter solenoid positive post even if nothing is running or on from what I know. The other wires on the alternator should be powered when unit is turned on. Sometimes a multimeter will record power on the display that we sometimes call Ghost voltage. It will put numbers on the display but not power up a test light. Does this unit have a master disconnect of any kind. Would like to see the top of the schematic with key switch. Sometimes a key switches contacts can be partially arced and can send some stray voltages. Simon C
Cold start advance on side of injection pump near the bottom, on most that I have seen. Simon C
I think the delvac 10w-30 would be fine.
What did the "Cold Start Timing advance" Look like? Is it a solenoid, a box, mini motor??? Yes, the Main wire post on the alternator has the full 12.5V as it should. "W" post is not used and "B" post is Tach & Hour Meter and "SHOULD" be zero with ignition off and hot when on. I definitely have 3V with nothing hooked up to it and 12V with the Tach Wire hooked to it with ignition OFF and the wires have zero when disconnected from it so no backfeed or short down the line. No ghost voltage, I'm using a good Fluke meter and am retired Avionics/Electrician on aircraft. No Master disconnect unfortunately. I'm stuck in a pickle right now because of that. I suspect the diode in the alternator might be bad or leaking voltage. I can't remove it though because the battery is located in compartment that has to have the cab tilted up to get to and I have another hydraulic line leaking that has drained my fluid again so I can't start it and raise the loader to tilt back the cab. I can't fix the line because I don't have a 2-5/8" crows foot and I can't get a wrench on it at any angle. Nothing around here is open on weekends to find a crowsfoot. Here is schematic of Switch but note it only shows 4 wires and mine has 5 used.
There's a forum for landscapers and such called lawnsite. There may be more people there with ASV knowledge, they were quite popular with the landscapers, because the suspension doesn't do as much damage to the ground as other styles. If you just need mechanic/ electrical help, there are plenty of people here that have years of experience working on all types of equipment, and most of the problems you will encounter, won't be ASV specific.
Is there not a alternator diode near the fuse panel to prevent backfeed of the tack wire.
Yes on the diode but it is on the gray wire which is not the issue. It is the white wire that goes directly from the alternator to the tach & hour meter that is the issue. Yes, the white and gray wire are tied together but I have the gray wire completely disconnected and still have the white wire problem feeding the Tach & hour meter. Looking around on here, I have found a post where someone else had a similar problem and it ended up he had the wrong alternator. There was no follow-up though on voltages to see "HOW" it was different and if he still had the mystery 3V on the new alternator post. I replied asking for clarification but it's an old thread so he may not see it. I checked mine tonight and see that I have a Perkins alternator 2871A306 part number on the new Perkins engine. Checking diagrams and parts dealer and they all show a 2010-131 Perkins Part number. I don't know if they are acceptable cross references or not and hate to spend $400+ on an alternator if I don't need one but will feel dumb if that is all it is after chasing wires for 3-4 days. On the ignition switch question, the switch had 5 wires but farther down the bundle, only 4 are on the other side of the plug so the schematic is correct. No problem, I was just curious. *** Toddgarage - Do you know how to get to the cab fans? Mine are extremely loud and sound like the mounts are loose or something. I pulled the filter panel and switch control panels down but I can only barely see in there. I can see the back of the fans but not the mounts or fronts.
Sorry for the late reply, last week of work push. Not familiar with the forestry climate package. The shielding probably has to be taken off. (PT60 requires the seat removed because all the fans, heater core, a/c coil and controls are smashed into a tight box.) PT100 Forestry - PT100 Series - PosiTrack Loaders - ASV - Online Parts www.trackloaderparts.com The diode has been an issue for me in the past as well. I’ve seen them in backwards and failed. People will borrow them from other circuits to bypass some safety concerns and charging system issues. Electrical is a challenge. On a used machine, expect to find cobbles and quick fixes that return the machine to work, but ignore the root cause of the problem(s). And for the last 3 years, us wrench benders have been: -buying used parts because new aren’t available -getting questionable at best “new” parts and finding them dead before installation -using similar parts in place of correct parts.
On all the Isuzu motors I’ve worked on… do not remove the Cold Start Solenoid. If you pull the CSS it’s possible the timing for the injection pump will be lost. Measure the ohms for the solenoid, Check for voltage but do not remove. The CSS will stay on in most applications until a specific engine temperature is reached. The engine sound should change when it’s on versus off.
Your post#14 shows the Key Switch S terminal going to the Quick attach switch, where as most schematics it goes to the S-Terminal of the starter solenoid. That schematic you posted a picture of has a different Key switch for sure. Not saying what you wrote on the schematic is wrong, just different. As Toddgarage says, don't disconnect the fuel pump cold start advance solenoid. I use 2 Fluke 87V meters for most of all I do, work well. Simon C
Update on my project PT100: - Parasitic draw and screwy voltage was a missing diode in the fuse box that someone put a fuse in instead and a bad diode in the alternator from the wiring diagram being wrong. - Ordered nipples and have heat hooked up now. They had plugs where nipples were supposed to be. If anyone else runs into it, one goes on back of water pump and other on side of the head, just in front of the temperature sensor near the front. - Temperature sensor on side of the head that is on the side with the fuel pump is for the cold start circuit. It works opposite the way of a "normal" temperature sensor. It is closed circuit when cold and then opens as engine warms up. - Temperature sensor for the gauge is on driver's side, front of the head and is part # 2848A126 easy to find anywhere. ( I got mine on Amazon for around $11 - Ordered and installed oil pressure sensor. - Blower fan noise was mud dobber wasp nests in the cage fans. Cleaned and quiet now. Other electrical was online wire schematic all messed up and wrong. I posted some corrections on another thread and will post one here when I'm done but I think I just found another issue where it's wrong. I'm going to start another thread and ask because I'm stumped. Pin 86 on both the Aux Hyd relays have constant power, even with the key off. This causes them to be warm since they are energized constantly even though there's no voltage anywhere else to pass through unless key is on. According to the schematic, the other end of the wire splits and goes to the momentary switches and the low hydraulic switch. I have no voltage when off at the low hydraulic switch so that wire isn't going there like the schematic claims. I can't get to the connector for the right joystick to check the momentary switches without taking throttle apart, covers off etc so hoping to find better way and someone else knowing the correct wiring but it would make sense that they do tie together so when switch is on, the momentary switches are enabled. - Turns out the previous owner put a 1104D engine in instead of a 1104C. Mine also has extra return fuel lines. One fitting is missing a lock so waiting on that, and a longer radiator hose since this one is too short so the fan hits it which is why the old fan had chipped blades. *** Take your back window guard knobs loose and put anti seize on them. Mine were stuck and I broke my knobs getting them loose to change my rear window. One got stuck in the middle contraption that goes between the two knobs. It a 1-1/2" piece of metal and they want $400+ for it. Took me all day and never did get one side out so just drilled it out and retapped new threads.
Update on my project... Fixed a bunch more I don't remember. One was fuel crossover tube I don't remember if I posted yet. You have to drop a tank to be able to slide it out. I did the muffler side. Have to take muffler off, disconnect both sides of the tube and the vent elbow on the tank you are going to drop. Fairly easy job. Changed the high flow hard line that goes across the firewall. PITA job but mine was bent and leaked at the manifold when I was mulching. 1-1/8 bent wrench and a self made socket with a notch cut in it and nut welded to it makes getting in there easier to get ends off/on. Also had to take the other hard line off to be able to snake the line out/in. Everything works now. Replaced multiple o-rings for minor leaks. Still have one small leak underneath by my case drain filter that I thought was the filter but isn't. Too cold to mess with right now. Probably just loose line on drive motor or some other line up in there or o-ring. Will address it in the spring. Finally having fun playing with mulcher, stump puller and grapple I bought for it. It's a beast!