Seems like every new machine we get, they've tightened the oil filter at the factory with something other than a hand. Such was the case with our new ZX 160LC. Usually a chain wrench does the trick but not this time. The problem was, they are apparently making their filters out of cheese. It twisted up into an hour glass. Had to remove the head and put it in a vise and get the chain wrench on the rim of the filter next to the head. How was your day?.....
We’ve got one guy who helps us with PM’s. He must be half gorilla. I have the same problems coming behind him! I don’t get it. I do hand tight and a quarter turn with strap wrench.
Never lost one hand tight only
I did the first service on a new CP54B last week. Of course you can barely get a filter wrench on the thing and some goon has cranked it on to about 500ft-lbs. Worst 30 minutes of my day.
Hand tight here too, my hands are not real strong either. I had one leak once about 20 years ago and all I had to do was turn it tighter but I always check with the engine running before turning it loose but I have never had another one leak like that.
Something about drill rigs will rattle stuff loose that normally doesn’t come loose. Harmonics or who knows what. A 1/4 turn won’t hurt anything and it’s a quick 1/4 turn with a strap to break them loose at the next service.
I too have had the "pleasure" of trying to remove "factory gorilla" installed filters! Most filters have instructions on them and if followed 99.99% of the time they never leak and come off easy. One exception to the easy-off filters were the small hydraulic filters on the 769D Truck we had at the quarry. The instructions as I recall on the filter were turn till it touched the head then 1/10 turn more! Not exactly in a position where you could easily see 1/10 of a turn but I tried to do the best I could. Problem was these small high pressure filters many times would lock on the threads and the canister would actually slip around while the threaded end stayed put! The solution was a very careful application of an air chisel just below the filter head to break the threaded part loose. Just a short brapp and it would screw off by hand. Now for the strangest filter install instructions I have ever seen was the instructions for the canister hydraulic filter on the 980K Cat loader! Just so you don't think I've been smoking something below is the print out from Cat, the bolding in the last sentence is Cat's not mine! Yes, they say to leave it 1/4 turn loose on that canister #5 in the picture! Loader had over 4,000 hours on it when I retired and never lost a filter or had one leak!
Air chisel. Brilliant! I'll give it a try next time.
Been that air chisel route YEARS ago on Euclid machines where the spin on changeover craze hit on the old canister filters. Guys at then Western Diesel evidently had a four foot cheater pipe when they spun down the filters, we used a air chisel to remove many of the first installs as the base plates of the spin on filters were wedged on so tight. Got the cans to crush, tried the screwdriver thru the outside skins into the media but would just shred. PITA even back then and I am talking thirty years ago.
You’d be amazed all the things an air hammer will do. Rattle things apart, break stubborn glands loose, large hydraulic fittings you can’t get a big wrench on. I even have a 1/2” drive bit for mine so I can rattle, hammer and turn a fastener.
Going off topic a little but I've used Willy's trick of using a hammer to loosen hyd fittings a few times now.
My theory of factory filters is the lack of an oil film. Most filter instructions say coat the rubber seal with oil. Even if one doesn't, the housing is dripping with oil. I believe the factory puts them on dry. Assembly line Guy takes filter from parts bin, screws it onto new, clean, and dry housing and you get to fight it off.
What he said^^. And add some possibly "green" paint to help glue them on. Bought a new Chevy pickup in 1982, completely tore the can off on the first oil change. Used pin spanner wrench to get the base off.
I just had a wander into the shop and took a look at quite a few Cat filters. All the instructions were the same: - Lubricate the seal with the same fluid that is in the system. Spin the filter on until the seal contacts the base. Tighten the filter and additional amount as directed by the instructions on the outside of the filter can. It seemed to be that the instructions on everything spin-on engine oil/secondary fuel/hydraulic was +1 turn apart from primary fuel filter/water separator elements that were 1/2 turn - YMMV but I can well remember a number of years ago instances of 3500 engine oil filters loosening because the recommendation changed from +1/2 turn to +1 turn after a change in design of the filter.
Still remember a few filter lines that upon engine or hydraulics start up would blow the can and a Quantity of fluid into the floor. I will NOT EVER install a Fram on my equipment. Are a few others as bad for the same, no name store brands are usually same manufacturers.
+1 - I hate Fram filters with a passion, closely followed by Fleetguard which I also think are sh1te ......
I have a few conditional uses for Fleetguard, mainly for those engines that require them for a warranty, friend of mine still works a lot of Cummins where the Warranty is affixed to the filter line. Can honestly state have not installed one for close to five years.
I remember seeing a publication saying never ever dent or gouge a filter can when installing. And if you do then throw it away. I believe it, too, seeing the pressure they run at and how thin the metal is. So I will not use tools to install. With one exception, if absolutely necessary filter pliers around the rim which is not the same metal as the can. Interesting about Fleetguard, I thought they were top of the line for aftermarket? I used to use them extensively in the past but that was 10-15 years ago. We are on Donaldson now because the vendor is good to us. But I have seen a change in Donaldson over the past 6 months where they have gone from the fancy o-ring gasket to a square gasket that reminds me of Wix. Everything else has changed also such as threaded plate, country of manufacture, outward appearance, etc. Still some difference from Wix though, don't know what to think.
WIX went south around 12 years ago first in light applications then the cheapening out moved on to larger groups. They supply a number of the Off Name brand filters sold as does Fram. At one time used AC by GM almost expressly with few issues, have NOT seen one in a coon's age, not even sure if offered as a full line any more. Really satisfied with the Baldwin products I use.
The filters I was using the air chisel on had the outer shell crimped over on the heavy cast aluminum end with the threads in it. The shell would just slip when you tried to unscrew the filters. The air chisle would let the impact put a small notch in the inner end cap and turn it just a couple degrees then it would turn off by hand. I would say about 2/3's of the time I did not need the air assist but every so often I did. Can't blame anyone too much as 99% of the time I did all the service work on the equipment in the quarry.
I dont count turns after seal contact ,just good and hand tight . All no problem except for Hitachi 200-5 . Working with rock ,the main engine oil filter will loosen even if fitted by gorillas . I made a wide filter strap with a car seat belt ,keep it flush with the base and squeeze until i feel the filter wall starting to cave . I use nearly all fleetguard for my sins . My fleetguard supplier is too good ,donaldson are pricey and I havent really considered Baldwin . Would they be better than fleetguard ?
If you have good luck with them why would you change because some wantabe expert says there no good ? I 've used them for about 40 years ,never had a problem that could be blamed on the filters. Bob
I had the internal bypass valve fall apart in a fleetguard and surefilter transmission filter fitted to a volvo loader a good few years back , so I only use donaldson or oem for all volvo transmissions now . Mostly everything else is fleetguard .
OTC makes nice filter wrenches that you use with a 1/2 drive ratchet (or breaker bar for the really stubborn ones I personally tighten mine by hand using a piece of emery cloth for grip. I don’t work on anything too weird though so no strange vibrations or anything like that
Is it the "Hybrid" model?
I wish . Old 2001 model with 6 pot isuzu engine
I always tighten with a wrench. I find I can't get much torque on a filter when there's oil on my gloves/hands/filter. I don't go full gorilla though. 3/4 turn past when the seal touches or whatever the filter instructions say.
I forgot to mention. I am very particular about the appearance of a new filter on a customer unit. I use mostly Donaldson so they are white. I only tear off the top of the plastic wrapper and screw them on as tight as I can. Then I pull the wrapper, and pull off my gloves, to use clean bare hands for maximum traction with no oil or grease. So the filter gets on there looking like brand new.
I wipe the filter off after installing then whip out the Leatherman tool & scratch in the hours or mileage in the paint with the knife blade . That's how Grandad did it ….. Unsure when the last oil change was just look at the filter .
Same here, only, I use a junkyard(welder's) paint pen, its less effort...
If you can find a paint pen that works ……... Kids run off with mine and if they manage to return them they are dried up . Still scratching numbers on filters with the knife blade . No sonny ! I will let you borrow the paint pen but not the Leatherman Tool …… LOL!
I have a log book and a page for each machine and use a label maker and put a next service sticker near the hour meter.
Back to the topic in the title. I can't believe no one mentioned this. Talk about hard to remove. A coolant filter that is hidden or forgotten and has not been changed in several years since the truck was new.
With the Cummins valve that won't close no less.
Coolant filters are a thing of the past.
Filter talk brought back a memory. I was green and just changed the hyd filter on a Mack dump truck. Forgot to open the shut off valve at the tank. Started to lower the box and heard a "pop". It ripped the neck off the head. With a little frantic searching for the part, it was back together in a few hours. What a mess...
I usually found the coolant filters when they rusted through and the operator complained after the shift that it smelled bad.
I quit putting dates on the filters and only put the hours on. If a machine is for sale the last thing you wanted a potential customer to ask was if the date was a year ago and the hours on the filter are almost the same, why haven't you used the machine. What's really wrong with it? It makes the negotiations get a little sticky.