[/ATTACH] I think I finally figured out how to downsize pics to HEF specs, so going to try a couple of the day we broug ht her home.
What does that piece mounted to the rear wheel rim do? I don't have that on mine.
Probably a first generation back up alarm. I like the "stabilizer keeper system". You do like fixing things, right?
If the chicken has faith in it, works for me
I guess that device on the left rear wheel is a backup alarm. Doesn't work, so it'll come off. The outrigger stabilizer was just to get it home - hose ruptured on that one while we were trying to buy it. The chickens are in guard mode - won't let the neighbors on the property! Surprisingly, this thing runs great, and most of the pins and bushings are fairly tight. I've got the instrument enclosure reworked, and prewired, ready to go back on this weekend. I'll post some pix of that later, now that I know how. Does anybody have any idea how the throttle return spring mounts? Like everything else, if it needed a spring, it had a bungee cord. Bought the new spring, but don't know how to mount it. Started to say I didn't know where to put it, but decided that was a mistake!
how does the backup alarm work?
It doesn't. but I assume it has some kind of ratchet inside, so that when you back up it rings the bell - it's certainly a bell, when I get it off, I'll see what's wrong with it.
I took the electric backup alarm off mine. If you want it, I'll be glad to send it to you. Not sure how it wires in but I know it's in the schematic somewhere. BTW, I got your package today and thank you. Your gauges are in better shape than mine so I will swap them out.
Is that a 188 or 207 engine ? The machine looks pretty good.
its a 207 engine. GWS, I don't know if any of those gauges are any good, you'll have to check them. I also have the instrument cover, foggy plastic and all if anyone wants it. The same with the bell backup alarm, I'll never use it.
OldMan, If your fuel injection pump looks like the one in the picture, check the return spring # 27.
Here are photos of the springs for the injection pump and linkage.
hi I have case service manual hard back form# 9-66018 for sale thanks
Working on remounting the dash assy and wiring. While tracing out the return to dig ckt, the 2 wires at the solenoid on the end of the spool came off in my hand. Looks like they were held on by about 1 strand. Looking at the parts manual, can't see much. Looking at the valve/solenoid, looks like a 1"sq white plastic piece, with a black plastic square spacer about 1/8" thick above it. Tugged gently on it with a wrench, and don't believe it unscrews, but afraid to put much torque on it. Is it possible to just unscrew the solenoid from the back of the valve? Don't think the parts manual lists a replacement for just the coil, but surely you don't have to replace the whole valve.
Look in the parts manual around page 316 and it will show how the solenoid comes apart. Looks like it should come out the back of the housing. There should be a washer and cone shaped seal around the two wires with a hollow screw that has a slot on each side that unscrews.
I went down and took another look, and I can see what you're talking about. Svc manual gives you step by step, but says not to remove detent assy unless necessary - that usually means you can't get iot back together, but I'm gonna see what I can do. Coleman wants $200+ for that coil, so either I can patch it, or I probably won't have RTD feature. Bankroll is gettin thin. Took a couple of pix with wifes little camera, sing to see if I can get them on here.
RTD would be a nice feature but unless you are moving an awful lot of dirt I would not worry about it. Maybe some day I will track down the linkages and hook mine up but for now it is far down on the list of things to fix. You might try some of the salvage yards if you want to replace the coil. They are usually not repairable when the wires break unless there is enough sticking out to solder a new wire to.
Here's a couple pix of the reworked instrument assy
Wow, oldman. Did you make the housing, or find something that fit? Are you planning to add some of the led lights? I am not sure how the alternator light works, but it appears the smarts are maybe inside the alternator, at least on mine.
GWS: Couldn't figure out how to attach this to PM, but could here. Is his correct?
I took the old housing, fiberglassed all the holes, sanded it and gave it a coat of paint. Dash panel and lid are made from an old fiberglass sign I had laying around. I elected to go with conventional indicator lights, one for oil press and one for alt fail.
580C Electrical Good looking and very clean. I also like the access lid. I am trying to use original gauges but may have been wiser to go in your direction. I'm finished with the wiring on my 580C but don't plan on energizing anything until I have the fluids/filters replaced, the brakes fully functional, and floor and seat back together. With the mounting cost, it may not happen until summer......
nice work!!!! keep it up along with pic's tb
You have it right. With the switch in neutral (N/C), the brake switch will make the circuit and activate the cut out solenoid.
Really nice work on the dash! I put my dash together for now but I am going to do what you did on the next round. Love the lid and layout.
The dash and wiring....very professional indeed! All of my gauges and every piece of glass (lights) were busted out by vandals sometime in its past life.
OldandWorn, I still have the front cover intact if you want it, I'll be glad to mail it to you. The plastic is foggy, but I see where folks on here have figured out how to clear it up.
Thank you for the generous offer. However, my machine is a Deere.
Where is the info on how to clear up foggy plastic? Thanks, Greg
It's in the Led's for warning lights thread
A couple more pix. As you can see, this is a typical Florida set out in the weather piece of equipment. Battery box is rblt, new floor pan, and new batery box hinges. Much easier to put them on the outside. All the wiring is done except running 2 wires up to RTD u-switch. Soaking the mounting bolt in Kroil, try again tomorrow, got rained out today. The shuttle cutout ckt works, I can hear and feel the solenoid pick when the engines not running. Up on the outriggers, the solenoid picks, but the wheels keep spinning. I would imagine that the weight of the machine on the ground will take care of that. Also I can't stop wheel rotation with the brakes when it's up. Any ideas?
Looks like you will be digging in no time! What did you use for your floor cut out switch? I am considering a starter button switch with a rubber boot but not sure how long it would last. Have you set up the brake cut out switch yet? I need to get mine hooked up and was wondering how you did yours.
Nice work. I'd be slobbering red oxide primer on that steel. Not the spray can, the stuff that comes in a gallon can.
Nice work OldMan! I have the same Case to go through, so please update with as many pics as possible. Nice work!
I went to repack some cylinders on one of these.Mustang Cat give the guy the wrong kits.But the guys trying to buy it showed up and bought it after some haggling.Had a hammer mounted instead of a bucket.
cleaned all that raw steel, and painted with BLP polyurethane Cat yellow. Works good.
I had promised to send these to GWS, but can't figure out how to attach pix to a PM, so everybody will have to suffer through them.
nice work nice pics keep it up tb
nice job!
OldMan the backhoe I purchased last week looks identical to yours, nice machine
Please keep the pictures coming. My machine is also missing the RTD micro switch & bracket assembly. From your helpful picture it doesn't appear to be terribly complicated and I may also wind up fabricating the missing items. Sometime in the future, I may be calling on you for dimensions. Currently I have other areas that are more important in the progression of getting the machine up and running again. BTW, I also need that seat spring part number. It seems you are leading the way in all things needed in repair of the 580C's. Thanks.
This whole thread is fantastic. Couldn't have come at a better time! Looks like there are plenty of folks recently acquiring/repairing a 580c. Just got mine last week. :thumbsup Thank you for taking the time to document your work. I'll be paying close attention. :notworthy
Finally got to dig with it yesterday!! Dug about 1/4 of a big pine stump and blew the seals out of a swing cylinder. Since my outrigger cyls were both leaking, and I was going to pull them anyway, we got out the pressure washer, cleaned things up a bit and pulled swing cylinders and outrigger cyls. What a job! The 4 cyls go to the shop tomorrow, and I'm gonna have all 4 hoses made too, no sense putting the old ones back in. Probably have to live one beans the rest of the month, but gotta be done.
lucky for you the month is almost over.only 8 day's of been's ha ha tb
lucky for you the month is almost over.only 8 day's of bean's ha ha tb
Well made it thru the second day of beans, and really they ain't too bad. Wife says no more cylinder rblds, doesn't mind the money, but the gas is killing her.
Hey old man why did you opt for shop over you doing them?
well oldman at least you have a good sense of humor tb
yes but he is extremely handy so a bit nervious about doing it myself????????
Iopted to usethe rbld shop for several reasons. The one I used came very highly reccommended. They have a large facility, and do it all. I dropped the 4 cyls and 4 old hoses off at 8:30 AM, and they were ready to go home by 11:00. Now that's efficient. The main reason however, I received a check from the insurance co. for a $500 deductable that I thought I would never get, and thought, what an opportunity!!
That would be a good reason for me as well! I called a few shops around here and they are talking around 2000 for 6 cyl ouch
im with you there .when you factor in the time something's just aren't worth doing yourself.tb
looks like a great project!
Plus the warranty with a shop.
These 4" cyls cost me $150 ea
Way out here in Oklahoma the rebuilds run $125.00 for the larger cylinders and $65.00 each for the swing cylinders. So far all that I have had rebuilt are working with no leaks. Odd thing is the one stabilizer cylinder that has all the rust nicks has never leaked I've got to have the dipper re-packed and it has some serious rust spots near the rod end. If it last through the summer I'll get another rod. At $360.00 for the rod and a new re-pack I'll have to start eating beans like TheOldMan
I like lima beans myself... If I keep buying parts my wife says we will be there as well... TheOldMan, your wife will be slipping you some Beano in your beer if you don't watch!! Dave
I learned that BOAT = B reak O ut A nother T housand so I'm starting to think CASE = C rap A nother S erious E xpendature
I guess I'm kinda lucky as far as cylinders go. I've done a bunch of smaller cylinders on the kubota. I pull it apart and bring the gland with me, they match everything up, and walk me through the install of new seals and what not..its been 25 per cylinder for parts. Its a real good shop, they even stock the leather cups for the old stuff.