So i have a welder 220amps AC its a buzz box my biggest project so far has been a charcoal kiln which was 1/8" plate rolled to form a 2 meter diameter cylinder and the chimneys and top cover. Now I would like to fabricate a simple root rake for my dozer but im not sure if I 1/8 inch square pipe would be sturdy enough or if I need to go thicker than 1/8 for the body of the rake, the "blades" of the rake should be like 1/2 inch probably so not sure if my welder is going to be able to handle this job, its AC so I mostly only use 1/8 rod 6013 AC. Also if there are some plans / footprint / detailed pictures somebody has or has seen I would appreciate if you could share Thanks Here is a photo of the kiln btw not related to heavy equipment but I’m proud of it I think I did a decent job
Ohh and happy new year btw frens
So you are thinking 1 1/8" box tube will be strong enough to hold back a D-4 ? Look at an existing root rake for a D-4, and look at the weight of it, for a guide as to what you need.
No, I was thinking 1/8 thick and like 5x5 yeah sorry I forgot to mention that
Is that what you have measured on one made for a D-4 ?
Yeah I looked at some rakes online just the photos and some description but the thing is I’m trying to figure out if I would need to weld something thicker than let’s say 1/4” which I’m sure my buzzbox wouldn’t be enough especially with 6013 ac
If it were me....The frame would be minimum 1/2" wall, even more idk. Tines probably a minimum 3/4", 1" if i could find it. Tooth factory material is hardened so oversized mild steel at least. Hi Carbon steel is better. 7018 rod will run AC, much stronger. and vee welds deep enough to burn through. Keep slag inclusions out. Lot of torque out front, and it will push sideways too. But me? always overbuilding or crying..lol
maybe use storebought plows and hardface below ground.there are AC hardface rods
Look at USA Attachments Root Rake they have plans. I bought a used home made copy of a small one for a IH/Dresser TD7 - 70 hp 14500 lb tractor. No 1/8" iron in it. gg
Just some guesses and memory. That rake for the Dresser, the up rights that pin to the blade would be in the 1.5 to 2 inch range or more, they added those angle looking plates for bracing of sorts, don't need to be like that, just some shorter 1 inch plates will do. The rakes maybe 1.5 plate or thicker, the bar they are welded to? Maybe 6 x 6 square or more, and not thinner than 5/8 wall. Anything added to it that is 1/8 thick will only be a name plate. I have not welded stick with AC since the 1970's, 6013 horrible stuff and nasty flux to deal with in my opinion. Only DC and plain old 7018. You do Vee weld preps and get a needle scaler from say harbor freight, to make life easier. You will need to find a few to get some ideas and thickness ideas too, study things real good before wasting the time and dollars. The dimensions you give in your first post may work okay for a lawn tractor that weighs in the 500 to 800 pound area. Not going to work good with a tractor that can impart close to 20 plus tons of force, especially impacting something that doesn't want to move like a stump or rock.
I have one of the USA Attachments root rakes, there's nothing even close to 1/8 in on it. I push it with a JD450 it's manufactured of a dozer along that size/weight...You may get by with a little less but not as light as 1/8 if you intend to push out stumps and rocks, jmho By the way g_man, yours looks like a good copy of the attachment I have. I just looked, they are $2933.00 before tax and shipping Yikes! I paid, if memory serves me well around $1800.00 delivered several years ago, before the big C hit.
When I started welding all we had was 6011 and 6013. 6013 is good strong rod if you have your joints well vee'ed. On my root rake I had good 3" x 1/2" angle to work with I welded scrounged ripper shanks on for blades, plenty of surface for welding. My biggest problem was the uprights for hanging it from bending.
I had a Canox 225 AC gas powered welder that welded up many a logging machine with 7018- 1/8 rod and never had a problem. Did quite a few jobs with an AC 225 buzz box also, just could not weld continuous with the electric buzz box. The duty cycle was fine on the gas jobby for burning 1/8 or 5/32 rods in multiple stringer beads. It can be done just not as fast. Simon C
Your 220 amp welder should run 5/32" rod. Should weld 1/2" plate no problem. I would be confident with 6013 but your machine should run 7018 no problem, look for 7018 AC if available. Some years ago I welded grouser bars on my D4. I started the first side with a old Hobart engine driven running 5/32" 7018. The old Hobart died and all I had was my old Lincoln 180 which would not run 7018 so I did the other side with 5/32" 6013. To this day the welds look beautiful and none have failed. Nice job on the kiln. Do you make that brush in to charcoal?
1/8 Hobart 7018-AC, 220A Buzz Box, 1/2 plate on 1/4 tube. gg
Nice job. I did lots of projects years ago with my Dads old Lincoln AC225. A person that learns how to weld with one of those machines can weld anything with the new DC machines. Thats my experience. Simon C
As others have stated, your welder is adequate size for the project although the duty cycle may be lacking. You'll probably only be able to weld for a few minutes then let the welder cool for a few minutes. 7018AC rod would be my choice, 1/8 rod is fine you'll probably be running it at 120-140amps give or take. You could run 5/32 rod but you're really going to be maxing out the duty cycle at those amperage. 7018 rod likes nice clean metal and keep the rod close. You'll have to do multiple passes in any high stress areas of the rake to get enough penetration/strength. Anywhere you do multiple passes be sure to clean the welds very good before the next pass, you don't want any slag on it. Chipping hammer and wire brush minimum, use a grinder if needed. I also agree with the others, find a commercially built rake and copy it. Good luck, sounds like a fun project and its a good way to broaden your welding skills.
If you abruptly stop your weld puddle there can be micro cracks that form in it. Photo above. Depends on the application and stress on the weld if it will crack the entire weld at some time in the future.
Wow ok thanks for the replies frens! So now the piston inside one of the hydraulic cylinders broke and I’ll have to work on that repair first I’ll make a new thread thanks !