Threw my first track the other day. Ive been trying to limp along until I got this job finished so I could replace the chains and sprockets and idler assembly. Naturally, I threw the track where Im up against a building, got the temp power to worry about and the road so I don't have much room to operate. I guess it could be worse. I thought that if I removed the zerk fitting, I could push the idler back and get the chain back on. No matter what we do, I cant get the idler to budge and that's with pushing on it with the bucket. I notice there is a large bolt where the zerk is. Im going to loosen that next but I figured, removing the zerk would do the trick. Just have to figure out the correct size wrench to bring (probably bring all my tools and still not have the correct size). Could there be something else?
The grease valves look like this: Some have removable zerks, but the check valve is inside the main body. You need to loosen the grease valve three or four turns to let the grease come out past the tapered nose and through the milled slot in the threads. Once pressure is off, you can carefully remove the grease valve completely, but be aware that when you push on the idler you may get a half gallon of grease shoot out of that hole, and it will travel ten or fifteen feet sometimes. Put a piece of cardboard or plywood up against anything you don't want lubed.
and I don't think I've ever come across one which doesn't have a hex size of 7/8" (22mm).
Komatsu uses a metric thread one that's a 3/4" hex, dunno about Hyundai....
boy that was easy. I didnt have the correct sized socket but i was able to get an adjustable wrench in there and with a little leverage got the thing removed. 22mm was way undersized for my machine. I was so excited that i pushed the idler all the way back. Probably only needed to push it about half way to get the worn track back on.