Regarding a 1990 CASE 580K Backhoe. I was getting fuel leaking from where the throttle linkage attached to the top of the injector pump. Presumably from where the linkages enter the top of the pump housing. In trying to take off the linkages to see what I could find, the bolt holding the linkages to the pump sheared off. I was sure that I was toast. Through some creative, but possibly not permanent, washer and spacer installation I was able to get the throttle links reattached to the pump housing - and it works. The reattachment also seemed to significantly slow/stop the fuel leak. But again, don't know if it's a permanent solution. My question is multiple: To replace the bolt that comes from inside of the pump and attaches to the throttle linkages, I presume that I'll have to have to remove and repair the pump completely? Is that 'user' doable? What kind of washer/seal prevents (or in my case causes) leaks from the pump where the linkages attach? Are they replaceable without having the pump rebuilt - or is that the only option? Any recommendations in who/where to go next? I have a couple of pictures that show the situation better, but wasn't able to figure out how to attach or insert in the thread. Many thanks to any that have insight/recommendations.
Welcome to HEF Johnhrich. :drinkup You have to get three posts in and lose the probationary status to access all the forum features, such as posting pics. As for your leak, I don't know exactly which injection pump you have, but it's common for injection pumps to have an aluminum housing with a steel throttle shaft, the shaft the throttle linkage connects to. What typically happens is, over time, the steel shaft wears the hole in aluminum housing that shaft fits in. When that happens, even if you replaced the shaft seal, it would still leak. Options then would be to either replace the housing, or drill the housing and install a fitted bushing which would provide a true hole for shaft to fit in. Not knowing what pump you have, I can't offer any specific remedy, but member thepumpguysc might be able to offer some info on doing the repair.
Thanks Willie for the welcome. Hard to say what injector I have - whichever comes with the standard 4-390 engine. Too bad about the pics - worth a thousand words... The closeup pic shows dark deposits, like you may find with a graphite seal, around where the shaft enters the pump housing. That may be what you are indicating, on the housing wearing down... not sure. How may I reach thepumpguysc? thanks,
You've got two posts now, just need a third. Once your status changes to Junior Member you can send him a private message.
Maybe this thread will help - It's about a 580E, but a non turbo 580K will have the same CAV pump
Airman, the thread you provided is great. I looked at my pics again and it is indeed a CAV pump. Don't have part numbers etc yet. I'll need to study the post carefully and do the research indicated but the good news is that it seems to be possible to replace the cover and throttle shaft without pulling the pump completely. CAREFULLY. Also sounds like thepumpguysc is just the ticket to a 'clean' fix.
PM sent.
These are John's photos.
The name plate is located right of the side cover and below the bleeder screw..DONT scrape it..go to the parts store or wally world and get some "gasket/paint remover" in a small spray can.. spray it on & wipe it off. It looks like you have plent of room to work with..I'll forward you the instructions.
Thanks to all for your help and input. Thanks especially to thepumpguysc for his detail PM help and guidance. I think that I know now what I have to do, and feel reasonably comfortable that I can do it. This forum is awesome. Going to submit a thread on bench testing gauges if search doesn't turn up answers. Thanks,
It worked !! thanks to everyone that helped and thepumpguysc. Got all the parts installed today and it actually started again. No leaks.
Good to hear you got it sorted out Johnhrich.
Happy for ya..Thanks for letting us know..
I am having the same problem with my 580K. Would the "thepumpguysc" be able to email be instructions for the repair too? Thanks!
You can contact him by clicking on his username where he made his last post.
ok...thanks! I believe I have to have 3 post for a PM....so this makes 2!
SUCCESS! Thanks very much everyone for the info, and Thank you thepumpguysc ! I was able to repair the fuel pump by replacing the o-rings, which was all she needed. The caution on the celvis pin and spring was invaluable! There were no ridges on my units' housing shaft or shut off shaft either. With my unit, the one problem I had was matching up the sliding J-bar for the fuel shut-off to the nipple. I had pushed the sliding J-bar over a tad too far so that when I worked the action on the shut off shaft, the nipple did not catch. So I had to carefully lift the top housing cover and slide the J-bar back over just a tad and then it engaged. Unfortunately, once I got everything together and replaced the 2 nuts on the housing and began to alternately tighten them down, I snapped the one bolt. So I had to undo everything and send the wife racing to the diesel shop to get another stud b4 they closed. All ended well and the hoe is back building stone walls! (...we are just north of Gettysburg, Pa.) With all the great advice I received, the job went smoothly and quickly without a hitch. Thanks again all!
Have the same issue, leaking pump at shaft.
I really need to get 3 posts in order to message about this. Will everyone hate me if I post 3 times in here? Will that count?
I googled the problem and stumbled across here and I think you all could help answer my questions, lead me in the right direction.....
I don't even know if the person is still active though.
Welcome to HEF, Gaery123 ! Be patient. The pumpguysc will be reading this very soon. I would suggest that you get instructions from him on how to time the engine and pump, remove it and send it to him. No one is better or cheaper.
Whats the problem.?? U can contact me direct by putting at a o l dot c o m after my screen name, in your home mail server.
Will do! Thank you. I had doubts on a 6yr old post. I will contact you and explain. My husband acty read the forum and assigned the job to me to try to get in touch with who the post recommended because it's the same problem... his words (I have no idea what I'm talking about)
Thanks for your help thepumpguysc. Very knowledgeable and helpful. We got to the problem and we were able to fix it with a $10 part. Saved a lot of time and trial and error type Fixes.
I'm kool like dat.
I am having the same problem with a 580k. The throttle post was leaking so I thought if I tightened the nut on top it might help. Broke off the stud, but was able to get the broken piece out and replace it. Put it back together and now she won’t start. Have fuel at the pump and the bleader, but not to the injectors. Any ideas on what I screwed up?
Did u MAKE SURE u engaged the shut off bar with the nub on the shut off shaft.?? If that’s not it.. Did u make sure u hit the flat on the throttle shaft with the flat on the throttle lever.??
Not sure
I didn’t take the cover off but did have the linkage apart I will check
How the hell did u replace the stud then.?? I’m lost.. ..seems to be happening A LOT lately. Lol
The only thing I have touched is the new long stud in pic. I was able to get on the broken piece after lifting the spring and linkage off and then replaced with what you see now.
Under the lever is a cut out for the flats on the throttle shaft to engage.. It’s probably not engaged.. Ur probably gonna hafta do it right.. Get a mini top cover reseal kit on Amazon or eBay.. they range from 9-12.00 w free shipping.. AND get a throttle shaft.. There are several different sizes of shafts.. get the mdl # off the name plate and I’ll look it up for u..ex: 3342F100
Thanks pumpguy! I’ll give it a try and let you know how I make out.
does this look right?
Yes, but there’s less expensive ones out there..
Throttle shaft- 7123-770A The updated shaft is a: 7123-770L But u must use a different spacer.. 7139-433B
This look right?