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Tightening up the blade on D3

AllDodge ยท 2016-10-02 17:50

Have an old D3 (S/N in sig). A little bit ago I rebuilt the motor and for the most part it's been a good little dozer. Has good undercarriage, transmission is strong, the issue is the blade is sloppy. The pivots for the main arms and pieces for the hydraulic cylinders need replacing. So the questions are, Should the pivot pins just be cut off, or somehow removed and replaced. The Points in the blade same thing, but don't think removing them will be easy.

Replies8
  1. #1hvguy2016-10-02 21:02

    I saw a guy replace the bushing in a excavator bucket, same issue; lots of play, sloppy fit. He ended up having to gouge out the weld, knock the bushing out and weld in new ones. Do you know if yours are welded in? maybe just the pin is worn out? Its kinda hard to say how to fix it if you cant take it apart.

  2. #2JS3002016-10-02 21:04

    Not sure about a cat but I just replaced all the spherical bearings on the cylinder ends and it took 95% of the slack out of my blade. I still need to tackle the pins were the c frame attaches to dozer and the pivot point at top of blade. These don't have very much slack at this point though.

  3. #3Willie B2016-10-02 21:55

    I'm guessing about Cat. My Dresser TD7G is the same size. You haven't said which blade you have, C frame, or outside frame. Mine has four "ears" on the main frame they have no bushing. The C frame has bushings. The pins each have smaller retaining pins holding them in one position in relation to the main frame. The C frame bushings rotate, but not far on these larger pins. Determine what's sloppy. If it is the wear between the c frame bushings, and pins, new pins, and bushings should suffice. Heat the bushings in three places red hot. Allow them to cool. they should pound out with a hammer and punch. New ones will fit easily after being chilled with dry ice. Use new pins. If the wear is in the in bushed main frame holes, it gets complicated.

  4. #4AllDodge2016-10-03 11:18

    Man sure wish I could get notified when folks post, tried resting everything and still no notification. The dozer is a C frame type. It uses what looks like a very large eye bolt (nut and lock washer on the back) into the from which the C frame connects to. Maybe with all the movement up/down would it be better to start with the pins. The cylinder does leak a tad so even that needs repairs

  5. #5hvguy2016-10-03 21:48

    I've had the same problem, its usually a couple hours behind.

  6. #6Willie B2016-10-03 21:56

    Big eye bolts??? Willie

  7. #7John C.2016-10-04 00:56

    The C frame does hook onto what look like big eye bolts. I don't recall if the eye bolts have bushings inside them but you can check it out on a parts diagram. I think you also have the big trunnion ball on the C frame that the blade hooks onto. Big socket joints on each side hold the blade to the ball. When the cups and ball are new there are shims between the cup halves. You remove the shims as the ball gets loose to tight it back up again. When all the shims are gone and you can't stand the looseness anymore you can replace the socket halves and the trunnion by air arcing them out and welding new pieces in. It is expensive to replace the pieces though and does take time to do the cutting and welding. The design is made so that with good maintenance you will buy another dozer instead of fixing yours.

  8. #8AllDodge2016-10-04 17:48

    Yep the Eye bolt is one the C-frame and is fastened to it The Eye bolt is held in place by the Pin on the frame Maybe I should start with the tilt pins, but having a hard time finding them on SIS. There is a part number for the C-frame but unable to find a pic