found a flat tire on the front of my hoe yesterday. I started putting air in it and I could hear it leaking out from the bead. I'd like to fix it myself if I can. So my first question is how to break the bead without any tire tools and second, where can I get some kind of bead sealant? Next, will I be able to just fill it with air or am I going to have trouble seating the bead. P.s. I don't plan on using ether to reseat the bead.......lol
what kind of hoe, tire and is it 4x4 ?
jd 410c and 4x4, tire is a goodyear and i think it's 14-17.5 not sure but i think it's 10 ply tire.
I would think it just has dirt in the bead.... years ago I worked for a guy that would put a small amount of gasoline on the tire/rim area.. let it set for a bit ... the WHACK IT with a BIG TIRE HAMMER.. I suppose you could break the bead with the outriggers.. Front tires are bad about going flat.... low air ...heavy load... sharp turn ... then you have mud/dirt in the bead... Most places that I've worked have put tubes in the front tires ... just to keep from popping the beads
yup pop bead by placing it under out rigger, slowly push down on bead untill it pops. Use pry bars (I would make a set of spoons to work the tire off the rim, to do so it will save the bead on the tire from chunking). Check to see if you have rust around the bead on the rim if you do take a whire wheel to it and clean it off. Check to see if you have chunks out of the bead on the tire... To reinflate take the inner core out of the valve stem, push air hose over valve stem and inflate, after bead seals put core back in...Spray soapy water on both sides of the bead to check if it is still leaking... you may have to hit the bead with a hammer to get it to stop leaking...good luck
would there be enough room to clean the bead with a wire wheel if I don't take the tire off the wheel or is it too close the the wheel. I was thinking that maybe I could push the tire down and hold it with a knee while cleaning it and work my way around the wheel that way.
ur probably not going to be able to push the sidewall down with your knee....it depends on what you weigh i guess lol. i would over inflate a little and smack it with a large sledge all the way around first to try to stop the leak first, chances are you'll have to break it down but its simple to do with a sledge, we use bucket teeth alot but u just gotta be carefull. kinda hard to say on the air pressure tho, check the other side....does it have the regular "hoe" tires on it or has someone put old truck tires or airplane tires etc.... there is nothing wrong with using ether to pop a tire on a bead if u know what your doing, we do it all the time. I know it wasnt a very informative answer to your origional post but hope it helped a little Pj
I use my stabilizer or a jack-all to break the bead on my tires. The size will determine which I use. I use the jack-all for my truck tires and the stabilizer for my rear backhoe tires. With the jack-all I place it on the tire and jack onto something that is heavy( backhoe bucket ) pushing the base of the jack down and breaking the bead. I am not sure what tire you need to fix! To remove the tire from the rim you will need a couple of big bars, tire bars help but are not always necessary. You might need a wire wheel on a angle grinder to remove rust from the rim. This is the most likely cause for a rim leak, assuming it is a tubeless tire or maybe dirt was pressed into the bead causing the leak. Black tire grease helps a lot for both removal and installation of tire. It helps keep the rim from rusting, ads in the slipping tire on and off rim, and seal the air into the tire when you want to blow it up. Soap also works but it doesn't have all the of these properties. It lubes but does help seal the rim as well when you want to blow up the tire.
I have a 310c front tire that on occasion will go flat. If ya move the machine with it flat it will break the bead and not allow ya to reinflate. I tie a rope around the tire loosley. Then useing a tire iron or a piece of pipe I give it a few twist. It will force the bead back on enough for the air to catch and ya can then re inflate. The tire folk have a special inflating rope for this but I dont have one. Be carefull as the pipe can wack your shines.
I was going to use dish soap for lube and a guy at a tire shop is getting me some bead sealer. I think I'll try the sledge hammer thing first because this tire has not been leaking for at least 3 weeks and it hasn't been in any mud or dirt to get wedged in the bead. I was in a gravel pit loading some gravel but the bead was nowhere near the ground level. It has regular backhoe tires on it.....nothing unusual, standard 4x4 tires for the fronts and that is what is leaking. If this is going to be a continuing problem then I'll see about putting tubes in them. So far it's just one tire. As far as the ether, I guess if I saw it done and knew how much to spray in there, I would try it. But if I can do it the conventional way, I will. The guy I talked to at the tire shop said the tire pressure is probably 45psi, does that sound right for a 4x4 bh front tire?
yeah, blow er up to 45 and see how it looks.....i dont pay any attention to PSI ratings most of the time, i just watch sidewalls Pj
Thanks davidd, I never thought of a rope twisted. Years ago i worked in a tire shop and we had one of those things you put around a tire and inflate to squeeze the tire to seat the bead. i don't have one either so a rope would work good for that. I knew I'd get some good answers on here:drinkup
rachet strap works well for that also....
That is what I have used many times as well Tonka. Put the ratchet strap around the tire, remove the valve stem (as been described in the other post), tighten the ratchet and add the air. Depending on the wheel condition, you may also have to use the hammer method on the rim and some bead grease always makes it easier. I have always ran foam filled front tires on my backhoe. You may want to check on the price of filling them at your local tire shop. If you take the wheels and tires to them it should be cheaper. With foam filled you don't have to worry about flats, just run them until the foam shows through. I also have a lot of experience inflating many a skid steer tire with ether, although not condoning that, as it can be very dangerous.:cool2
I like foam filled fronts on a backhoe too, i used to work on Vegas and sometimes we carried a 12,18,24 and 36 inch buckets as well as a hyd hammer. They kept a little more wieght in the front end of my CASE superL, as we would road them all over town...
I have never used the ether method. But there are several films on YouTube.com showing how to do it. I used to work for a large excavating contractor and one of their tire men used the ether method on every scraper tire he changed.
Should the valve core be removed before using the ether method or doesn't it matter? I was thinking that any residual fumes should come out after the bead is seated.
DO NOT USE EATHER to saet the bead on the tire...you can kill yourself!! valve core should be in the stem so tire doesnt unseat itself... on the rachet strap method...
I agree, DO NOT TRY THE ETHER METHOD! It is very dangerous and can cause severe injury or death. In my younger and dumber days I have used it before but only after trying all the other methods to seat the tire. If you can't get the tire re-seated just take it to your tire shop and let them do it. They probably have a Cheetah air tank which makes fast work of setting a tire. I have over 20 years of experience operating and maintaining smaller equipment. After wrestling with skid and backhoe tires too many times decided that for skid, backhoe and telehandler tires, foam filling is worth the money. I prefer to remove the valve stem when trying to re-seat a tire. If you have a larger compressor it will enable a larger volume of air to enter the tire faster, you just have to be quick in re-installing the stem.
I won't be using the ether trick..........just curious about the procedure. I'll use the ratchet strap around the tire and blow the air to 'er.... If that won't work for me, I'll take it to the tire shop. It's a 45 mile drive one way, so I would rather do it myself.
valve core in or out dosent matter. i normally leave it in tho. spray in a complete circle all the way around the wheel inside the tire, move your arm in a prety fast motion, on a 24.5" semi tire it'll take probably 2sec. and then to ignite, normally i will just use the ether, hold a lighter in front of the can and wave the flame near the tire an it'll take care of the rest lol. or to be a little safer you could take a stick match and throw it in the wheel. either way will work. it just makes a loud "pop" yeah it can be dangerous but so can driving a car without a seatbelt. or operating a machine witout "rops" .......it's kinda like my dad always said, "if your aunt woulda had a set of balls she woulda been your uncle too" lol it'll all be over in a blink of an eye, there will be virtually no PSI in the tire but the tire will be on "the bead" and then u can put air in it normally. again, yeah its dangerous but no more so than any other act we perform on the job daily. so with that being said, i would recomend that u have someone show you how to do it rather than just trying it. Edit: i forgot to add, if you decide to use air to blow it up and are having a hard time, take the valve core out and take the coupler off an air hose and stick it directly on the valve stem, hold it there till u have enough air that u can lose a little while putting the valve core in Pj
I wouldn't use either myself. That being said, I have seen it done on the scraper tires. It was a huge time saver for the repairman and was a lot easier than the alternative ways to do it. A ratchet strap can be a really hazardous also. Too much air pressure in the tire could cause the strap to fail. A lot of variables with the strap. Such as how good are the hooks, are there any nicks in the strap itself. I have yet to see a strap that can be released immediately. Most importantly you have to use common sense and stop inflating the tire as soon as the beads START to seal.
go down to the parts store, buy some tire sealant, put it in air it up and go enjoy the rest of your day doing somethin else
I'm surprised nobody else mentioned tire sealant. We've used it in skid loader tires for years. Works well as we used to get lots of flats working around roofers and carpenters all the time. We were getting an average of one to two flats a week and reduced that to one or two every couple of months. When there is a hole that has to be repaired the tire guy scoops it out and puts it right back in the tire after repair. You can buy the stuff in gallons with a pump to go through the valve stem. Our tire shop just pours the right amount in the tire when mounting.
How much does it cost to fill a front tire of a 410 JD 4x4?
Sorry forgot to say FOAM FILL the tire!!! Thanks
When I was taught to change truck tires I learned the rope method but no special rope, just a rope. Ratchet strap sounds like an improvement. We had a pipe formed in a ring the size of the bead with holes drilled all of the way around so it would blow into the bead, worked good. Tire hammer and long, high quality tires tools are treasures. I bet the first guy who tried the ether method said "Hey y'all, watch this".
Go to the hardware store and get linseed soap , use that on the bead. This is what they used for years until someone said lets call it tire sealent
We have used tire sealant successfully for bead leaks on loader, agricultural and truck tires. It does get a little expensive at $30 per gallon so I decided to try my neighbor's trick and made my own. Get your wife's blender some day when she's gone to town. Put in about 2-3 cups of water and some newspaper. Rev it up and add some more newspaper. Make a thick slurry and pour it into a gallon jug. Since we live where winter gets serious, I thin the mixture down with some antifreeze. Then use it like the store bought stuff. I use an old 5# fire extinguisher to add it to tires without breaking the bead. Put your sealant in the fire ext, pressurize it with an air hose, slip the ext. hose over the valve stem, (with the core removed), and pull the trigger. I know this sounds hillbilly but I swear it works as well as the $30 stuff! Cheers Brent
Oh yes, I also was going to add that we use ether as a last resort too. I don't have a blaster tank like the tire shops have but I have a 1" host attached to my compressor tank and made a 5" wide curved nozzle that I direct in between the bead and rim. Then I hold on with both hands as someone else cracks the ball valve. It works most of the time. Brent