I've got a '80 GMC Topkick with 10:00-20 tires which are getting pretty bad. After calling the tire shop they informed me that they do not make that size anymore and would have to change to 11R22.5 As I don't know much about the subject is this as as simple as putting 22.5 tires on the old rims, or do I have to replace everthing?
Im running across the same problem with my truck, it has 10-22's, they are the Dayton rims and I have already found some used 24.5 Dayton rims, to install 11R-24.5 tires. Its hard to bite the bullet and buy 8 tires at once. If you have a truck salvage place in your area, they may have used tires, or replacement rims, but make sure they are not recaps and they dont have any weathering/cracks. Is your rims Dayton (2 piece) Im sure they are, I wasnt aware that you could buy Dayton 22.5 rims, I thought I was told 24.5 was the smallest one piece rim that was available, thats the reason I bought the 24.5 rims. Hummm Ive got to check on that one I am going with a LoPro tire 285x24.5, they are cheaper, more available and about the same height as the 10-20's Ill check with my tire man and see what he says
First off, anybody who told you nobody makes 10.00-20s is full of it, because the container companies are using thousands of brand new ones so people don't steal them. The utilty companies use many of them for drive tires because you can get more aggressive lugs in a bias than a radial. To change to 11R22.5s, you must get new rims because 20s are tube type, and 22.5s are the tubeless equivalent. 20 and 22.5 are the rim diameters. Good luck, and find a better truck tire store, Mitch
I ran into the same problem when I had to get tires for my International single axle truck last year. Yes they do still make 10 R20 tires, just not nearly as many varieties are available. Unfortunately, I found them to be much more expensive than the 22.5s. It cost me about the same money to buy new 10-20s or to buy new 11-22.5 and new rims. I actually found some good used 22.5s and just bought new rims. It was a lot cheaper that way.
Willis, 22.5 daytons are very common, I have about 64 of them rolling. 10.00-22s are the same height as 11-24.5s; 10.00R22 = 11R24.5; 10.00-20 = 11-22.5; 10.00R20 = 11R22.5. It would not suprise me that new 10.00-22s are very hard to find, but both truck tire stores in andrews stock new 10.00-20s.
You will be much happier with the radial tires. Bite the bullet and get the new tires and wheels. If you can't afford new tires and wheels you aren't charging enough for your truck.
Another disadvantage to 10.00 x 20's and 10.00 x 22 tires is finding a tire man that will service a split rim. They are still out there, but getting harder to find. And a big one is if you haul heavy for any distance, they don't disperse the heat as well as the tubeless tires.
break down and but the rims and 11.00 x 22.5 tubeless. Once you have had the tubeless for a while you will wonder why you did not do it a long time ago.
I have a 1992 GMC Topkick (33,000 GVW with air brakes) that I building up. I have 10.00R20 tires on split rims. I would like to change them over to something safer. More and more people wont touch split rims. Did you swap out your rims? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Chad
You can easily upgrade to 11R22.5s. You will have to buy new rims.
If you go to 11.00 22.5s you need to pick up new rims. any truck bone yard will have a load of them or just post on craigslist that you are looking for them. If you go with them and they are bud style you will need to make sure they are truly bud and not hub pilot. You can tell the difference by the wheel stud hole. A bud has a tapered hole used for centering the wheel.Hub pilot has a straight drilled hole. The good part of switching is that if you have a sledge hammer ,a couple of pry bars and a strong back you can swap your own tires without the risk of blowing your head off. As for recaps they are fine for the drivers not legal for the steers. I have put many thousands of miles on recaps and never a separation
Hey Chad, yea I swapped them out. I bought some used rims and some 11R22.5 recaps for the drives. I don't know where in Maine you live but the used rims ran me $50 at Maine Commercial Tire, but you could also try White and Bradstreet down to Augusta. You'll be very happy with the swap, like a guy said in a previous post now I can change my own tires it's a lot more convienent and safer
Thanks for the HELP (JTKenworth). I live in Bowdoin Maine. Yes I have been to White and Bradstreet many times (grew up next store to it). Could you write to me personally so I could talk to you easier and possably see some pictures? Thanks Chad ( [email protected] )
Maybe in your state they are not legal... at least thats what the tire dealer tell you.. they are legal in minnesota to run on steer axle.
Retreads are not legal on steer axles up here either:tong
In New York state retreads are legal on the front just not on buses.
"The good part of switching is that if you have a sledge hammer ,a couple of pry bars and a strong back you can swap your own tires without the risk of blowing your head off." Any time you inflate a tire, you risk blowing yourself up.You still stand a substantial risk of injury if you don't know what you are doing. Without adequate lubrication and proper tire irons, you most assuredly will damage the tire's beads.This can and will result in catastrophic failure.Maybe now as you inflate it, maybe later on as it goes down the road, or it will get rejected for retreading or casing credit because the bead is screwed up.Now how much did you save by beating it on there with your sledge hammer?
i'm sure you can find 1000-20 truck tires at inter city tire. i see container trailers at their place in new jersey all the time and 99% of them use that size, as someone else already said. their website in www.intercitytire.biz . their prices are also pretty reasonable.
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I swapped to 11R22.5 on my Mack. Used rims were $50 each(cleaned/painted). This was 10 yrs ago...........so don't hold your breathe for cheap anymore. Tires have doubled since then and I dread the fact I ever have to buy new ones LOL!!
Find a wrecker and buy a used set if you cannot afford to replace new. You will never be sorry. You still have to worry about nails or screw, however you will not have to worry about any grit left in the tire, the flap cracking at the stem hole, or even the seam letting go. I would guess you have about 10% of the repairs you are currently having.
Im new to the forum so if the question like this has been answered before i did not see it. I have an old fire truck which has the 900x20. I found tubeless rims 22.5x 7.50 I was told i can use the 10r x 22.5 or the 11 r 22.5 what is the difference between these 2 sizes. Also are the 10.00 x 20 made in a tubeless type Thanks
Do you have dayton (spoke) style rims? Do they have wedges to hold the tire to the hub? Does your rim look like a large ring? If so, the 11R22.5 is the same overall size as a 10.00 20 tire. As is 12R22.5 is the same as a 11.00 20 tire. The 9.00 20 is the same as a "low pro" 22.5. The rim of all 6 of these will fit on the same dayton hub. If you have budd style hubs then you can use any tire size you can find rims with the same lug pattern. ETA 24.5" uses a 22" hub they are a whole different size.
First of all n, the 10.00-20(as well as all 20" truck tires) is tube type only. Second, the difference between 10R22.5 and 11R22.5 is the section width and overall height. The 10-22.5 replaces the 9.00-20( same height). You'll want to go with the 10R22.5(the R denotes a radial tire-it's up to you whether you use bias or radial, just do not mix them together on the same axle). Although the 11R22.5 will fit onto the 7.5" wide wheel, it is supposed to go on an 8.25" wide wheel. Any more questions you need answered on this subject, feel free to inbox me. Too any people on here think they know what they are talking about in regards to tires, and some are fairly knowledgeable, while others have no clue but try to give advice anyway.I did commercial/OTR tire service for over 10 years. Does not matter what style wheel you have, the sizes still correlate the same.
rofessor All Dayton wheels are held on by wedges,9.00-20 is the same as 10-22.5 not low profile, and all 10 hole Budd wheels are the same bolt pattern.(So are six hole). Rim style does not determine what size tire you can use. :beatsme
Wrong. If you have budd or hub pilot you can change rim size. Daton requires the hub be changed to change rim sizes out of the 2.5 inch for the tubeless. I would put all my trust in a guy that just punched a clock instead of some one that actually uses all kinds of different tires and combination on there own trucks. The guy in the tire shop just puts tires on, the guy that owns trucks has to know what works best.
ointlaugh First of all, I ran service trucks my entire career. Second, Dayton wheels have various sizes of spacers and wedges for the sole purpose of accommodating different width rims. The guy who "punches the clock" needs to know all the differences to do his job properly, therefore is intimately familiar with the different set-ups. As far as "change rim sizes out of the 2.5 inch for the tubeless"(whatever that's supposed to mean)- first and foremost, ALL the .5 sizes(14.5,16.5,17.5,19.5,22.5,24.5) ARE TUBELESS!! The .5 denotes a 15 degree bead taper, as opposed to the 5 degree of the whole number sizes.Second, 20" & 22.5 are completely interchangeable on the same set of spokes, as are 22" and 24.5. Maybe this is what you were trying to say, but you lack either the knowledge to say it or the ability to put your thoughts into legible sentences. Either way, it's kinda tough for someone, even one in the know,to actually understand and differentiate what you posted. So, in summary, the tire guy is supposed to know a whole hell of a lot more than just how to mount and inflate a tire. "Just puts tires on"!! And a mechanic "just turns wrenches", I suppose, while the truck owner actually has all the knowledge. Some people never cease to astonish me with their vast intelligence. Have a wonderful day, and please feel free to further educate me on the subject of truck tires and wheels, since you OBVIOUSLY wrote the book. Oh, and for the record, way back in 1997, I took a test to become a Certified Commercial Tire Service Technician given by the then International Tire & Rubber Assn.(now Tire Industry Assn). It was a 100 question timed test, and I scored 96 out of 100 in less than 30 minutes, thereby earning my certification.I'd love to see your score on the same test. I'm on here pretty much every day, so please educate me, as in your reference to a 9.00-20 being the same as a low profile 22.5.:Banghead:stirthepot
Here's a link to the current technician training/testing for anyone interested in what it's about. http://www.tireindustry.org/cts.asp
Recaps are not legal in Missouri on the steering axles either.
Its nice to know that you think you know what you are doing when all you have ever done is work for some one else. I guess thats how you manage to go day to day. Its not my fault that your offended by someone that owns things that you cant. I see thats why you wont be able to own a company and be successful. Keep ranting and raving that you took some tire test (LMAO) and scored high. So I guess if I score high on a test I would know all there is to know. Have a good time while your making someone else money.
Funny how the topic suddenly changed to me being offended(which I most certainly am not) because I don't own a truck(by choice, I might add). There it is in a nutshell, everyone. If you work for someone other than yourself, apparently success nor intelligence is an option. Buy a truck and become a wealthy genius appears to be the moral of this story. Did anyone else catch the part where I claimed to know it all, because I can't seem to locate that part. Must be because I work for someone other than myself, so I couldn't possibly know what I'm doing. :falldownlaugh:lmao
Tireman, I've been following your posts on this thread and others. I think you are a great asset to this forum. I have owned, driven and worked on trucks for all of my adult life. It never ceases to amaze me how some people that own things don't know much at all but think they have all the answers. I made a lot of mistakes but have learned a lot from some owners and guys just like you. Keep posting your information! FWD
I wouldn't worry about Cetane, if you look at all 11 of his posts, you'll find they are frequently wrong, and even more frequently unpleasant. If he keeps it up, the members here will probably run him off. Tireman, you and I disagreed about some minor point once, but I have no memory of the details. I also have done this over 25 yrs, and have put effort into learning about tires and rims, among many other things. I agree you are an asset to this forum, even when you show such bad judgement as to disagree with me. Keep it up, Mitch
Thank you for the positive comments,gentlemen. And while I'm at it, let me take this opportunity to apologize for getting into such an immature pissing match. I hope that I didn't offend anyone, and if I did please forgive me. I am a stubborn pr!ck but I mean only to help. After all, when it comes to trucks in particular, only fuel is a bigger expense, and every extra mile you can safely squeeze out of your tires improves your bottom line. Anyways there's nothing wrong with a healthy disagreement or debate, but then there's going too far , as was witnessed in earlier posts. Stubborn as I am, I DO have a great sense of humor and enjoy a laugh as much as almost anything. That being said, I appreciate your comment, Mitch. And it's gonna take a whole hell of a lot more than what cetane came with to come close to running me off.:guns Have a safe and wonderful day, fellow HEF'ers.:salute :drinkup
Tireman. Can you interchange a 20 inch Dayton rim with a 22.5 Dayton rim without changing anything on the truck?
Yes you can just put the 22.5s right on
Yes, bolt right on no changes needed.
Gents, the world lost a good man and I a good friend and at his memorial we discussed a comment that was made in his regard. He was said to suffer no fools. I did some reading on this and the idea is to learn to laugh with and at foolishness and those on [rare?] occasion to display this behavior .... hmmm havent we all.... Sure makes a contrary circumstance a different experience. Thanks to all.
Changing my wheels from split rims to dayton. Hey, I have a 1964 IH 1700 Cabover Loadstar that I pull my antique tractors with. I want to change my 9.00 -20's bias(dry rotted) split rims to 11r-22.5 rad dayton. But my steer rims hit my control arm. Is there a off set rim made to do this? and If so where? I have been told you can put a spacer between hub and drum. Thanks 1964-IH cabover 1700 loadstar 1954-IH Farmall Super MDTA 1982-IH 582 special lawn tractor 1962 - Ford 861 Power Master
I had the same problem. Called a dozen or more tire dealers, and searched endlessly on the internet. My usual dealer said they aren't being made. Further complicating the search, I wanted a mud tire. Some time later I was on vacation near Ellsworth ME and had a bad tire on the travel trailer. On a whim I asked about 10.00-20 heavy tires. "Yeah" he replied, "We can get 'em. It'll take a few days." He got me a complete set. They are DOUBLE COIN. I'd have to look at them to see the load rating, they were two plies heavier than my old ones. Back in VT I took them to my usual tire dealer, He said "We could have gotten those!" "Why didn't you?" I asked. Willie If they aren't available in Canada, I bet you could get them from USA. They are made in China I believe.
Of the Chinese brands, Double Coin seems to be pretty mainstream nowadays. We ran caps where I worked and had them capped in Oliver Waste Hauler Lug. Big knobby mud tires and they worked great in mud and in snow they were almost like having chains on a regular tire. I had capped as many Double Coin as I did Toyo and American brands and never had one pop. We would run steers out and cap 3 times over before junking.
We run DC 400 drive tires-average 170,000 on a set. We bought all the Double Coins we could because there is a tariff that's been enacted and you won't be able to get them, by the info I was told. Truck Shop
You need 10R22.5's (the actual equivalent to 9.00-20)on 22.5 X 7.50 wheels. Probably have a 22.5 X 8.25 wheel right now. Put the right thing on there and it'll fit without spacers or offset or any other unnecessary contraptions. You put a bigger tire and wheel on there than what you had is why you have a problem.
Using a 8.25 rim instead of 7.5 Tireman, I read your post and you seem very knowledgeable. I am a simple novice wanting to be pointed in the right direction. I have a 1976 Loadstar 4x4 with Dayton rims and 9.00x20 tires - it was an Army truck before I owned it. I have the same situation as the other person above with 9.00x20 rotted tires and I want to go tubeless. Based on what you have said I should change my rim to 22.5 x 7.5. That size rim is hard to find from all the places I looked at or called around. It seems 22.5 x 8.25 is the more common rim. I can buy new Accuride rims 22.5 x 7.5 but I will have to pay a lot more than new or used 8.25 rims. Am I right in reading I would have troubles (like the poster above did) by using 8.25 vs the 7.5 rim? If I did go with the 8.25 wouldn't I need to go with a different spacer also? Another forum on the subject by someone named ModMechwrote this: The 10R22.5 tire will mount well on either a 7.5" or 8.25" Drop Center Dayton rims. There are two VERY important reason to buy the 8.25" rims: 1) They are MUCH cheaper than the 7.5" rims, and 2) You can mount 11R22.5 tires on the 8.25" rims but NOT on the 7.5" ones (safely). The 11R22.5 tires cost about 10% more, but are actually worth MONEY used and tread life is about 100% improved (same tire brand and model). But, if I am reading things correctly I should stay away from 8.25 because my loadstar was designed for the 7.5 wide wheel and I cannot incorporate the 8.25 wheel without compromising something. I appreciate your advice on steering me to a wiser decision. While I would like to use an 8.25 wide rim for the reasons noted above I just am not sure that will work for me. Thanks in advance for you help.
First of all you can safely mount 11's on a 7.5 wheel(8.25 is recommended/7.5 is approved(exactly opposite for 10's - 7.5 recommended, 8.25 approved). The 8.25 is cheaper because it is the more common size. The tread life statement made by the novice is asinine. 11R22.5's are worth more in any condition because they are more common and carry more weight. As for your vehicle, all I can tell you is fit them up & check clearances. Optimally 10's on 7.5's is best but if 8.25's clear you may save some $ on wheels. You won't need to change spacers just because of wheel width. The spacer relates to the wedges and hub width, not wheel width.
If your truck is X military, I bet it has some insanely tall gear ratio. Taller tires would be a small step in the right direction. If your wheels are good, I bought 10.00 X 20 Double Coin traction tread for my 1976 Chevy. They are a great tire! My local dealer handles Double Coin, but told me they weren't available in my size. A dealer in Maine had them in two days. Willie
Thanks for the quick reply. Good information for me and very helpful to know the spacer on the dually is not a factor due to the rim width. I plan to do the measurements to see what my truck can safely accommodate. Also, I checked on a Double Coin dealer and learned there is one in Tucson so I will check them out. The information here will help me make the most economical and safe choice...I appreciate all the knowledge you guys have and willingness to help out.
Glad to help. Best of luck & keep us posted on your progress. I'm never on the Forum anymore unless I get an email notification to checkout so if you start a new thread shoot me a message.
this is a old thread, might be dead, but split rims and converting to 22.5s. i got 9r20s, i know the conversion is 7.5x22.5 7.5x22.5 is not very common any more. and the 10r22.5 went extinct with covid. ran into this with f650 and had to hack my truck bed to get a tire on the rear. more then likely will go to a 295 or 11r tire. this is a gas truck so smaller tires/ more torque is better. will the 7.5 interchange with the 8.25 daytons? i have read the front might need a 1/2 inch spacer and the rear spacer is different to fit. been years since i have messed with 1 of these. i prefer tubes and split rims for the work i do, but these wheels are not in good condition and cant get replacements. using the truck to haul rock, putting between 7 and 12 yards of wet rock on this single axle pushing 35k to 60k. i know 295s tubeless wont take that abuse, especially offload digging bedrock out of pond. i load my 650 with 295s up to 44k with 10rs and wont go past 36k with the 295s, same ply tire just 1 was made better then the other. thanks in advance.
With the 1976 C65 I used to own, I went years putting used tires & NOS tires bought from the local farm store. Old tires, regardless if they have zero miles don't last. The set of 4 I put on rear were cracked 2 months after being installed. They had been stored in the attic where temperature ranged from zero to 130, might have been 30 years old. I was in Maine, had a flat on the camper, the guy at the 1 man tire store seemed knowledgeable. I asked about 10:00-20 16 ply traction tread. He said "I can have them here tomorrow." I bought a set in Maine & hauled them 450 miles home. Double Coin, a Chinese tire, I believe still on the truck 12 years old.
If you are loading a single axle class 6 truck to 60k you are going to have way bigger problems than tire size....
double post