I have a 2004 TL130 that I have been dealing with for some time. Like many of the threads I have ready, I am not getting power to the red wire of the stop solenoid. I have continuity from the red wire on the K relay to the red wire at the fuel stop relay, but no power coming from the that pin. I do have switched power on the yellow pin (#3) and the White wire at the relay. I replaced the "K" relay thinking that may be the problem, but have the same issue. Anyone have insight as to what powers the red wire?
Hey Drummer, I have been having the same problem with my Gehl ctl80. I bought the manual online to get the wiring diagram. When i got it it was printed so bad i had to get it enlarged at staples. I had some diagrams sent to me from heymccall on equipment forums, and they were very good prints. I still have not figured mine out yet just wanted to let you know about bad factory wiring diagrams. Dont waste your money on them. Maybe heymccall will read this and post a link to the diagram that he has.
I believe I have the service manual on a jump drive in my truck, I’ll check tomorrow and see.
Standard answer when the hold wire doesn't energize...resolder all the cold solder joints in the two triple relays. None of the other relays are suspect, nor do any of the ogher relays easily disassemble. Below is full schematic. As far as I'm concerned, it is the same as a TL130.
I still dont understand where it says relay unit 3 (relay,3) if that is one of those three relays inside of The J or K relays ? I see a D1,D2 and a D3 on the board under the three little white relays when you take the cover off of the BE31-107 relay. I am thinking these are the ones ,but the wire colors going to them dont match up with the wiring diagram.
Are you looking at the harness wire color or the relay pigtail wire colors?
I have pdfs of the service manual that I can blow up. I have tested the stop solenoid and it works as expected. I have continuity from the emergency relay to the stop solenoid timer, but the relay is not energizing that circuit, it’s a new relay. I haven’t taken the relay apart yet. I did find the light green wire in the horn circuit to be corroded and waiting on some terminals to put it back together. My fear is it’s the gauge cluster relays. Does anyone know how to test the relays to verify they are working correctly?
I am looking at the pigtail wires that go into the K relay. I have the relay out and i am trying to figure it out on my desk. the machine is at another location. I will go there today and check the harness wire colors. thanks heymccall you are the best.
I thought you were chasing the "hold" circuit?
Sorry about that I am talking about the hold, I meant I have continuity from Relay L to the stop solenoid its not a broken wire. White wire functions as expected I have power on the pink wire going into the relay L I have 1 new reley, and both old ones and cant see any visible cracks in the solder on any of them.
Any chance of getting the board picymturs in focus?
Here you go. Would love to know how to bench test these.
Still not clear enough. This is one example.
I will look at these under magnification. May just buy another new one, just to be safe. Is there a way to rule out the gauge cluster?
From your 2nd pic. The circled joints are definitely broken solder connections. I'm sure that there are more.
Thank you for this! I ordered a second new relay, and while I'm waiting on it, I'll try to fix these. Crossing my fingers!
Still waiting on the 2nd relay, but I went thru all the solder joints on both of these relays, swapped in the 1 new one in both locations and the behavior didnt change at all, no hold in circuit. New revelation, I now have mementary power to the pull in circuit when the key first turns on, it then turns off. But no power during cranking. I am assuming stop solenoid relay has power (yellow) coming in and should have power on the white during cranking? I still can't get power for the hold circuit (Red) on Relay L. I've read pin 1 (Bottom right-no wire attached on this pin) is powered with key on. Power jumps to pin 5 during cranking. Am I reading the pins correctly? Seems like I have read the hold in circuit should be hot with key on. I did test both emergency stop relays and they tested good in the cluster.
Drummer, How did you test the emergency stop relays ? I thought they were enclosed in the gauge cluster and that wasn't accessible.
I’ve read the relays are on the logic board, I have 2 4 pin relays mounted just under the cover, tested both, they have resistance less than 100 and click when power applies. I’m assuming these are the emergency relays.
When you say the cover,do you mean the one where the gauges are or the one in front of your feet ?
Where the gauges are
Thanks drummer i will test mine.
tested my emergency stop relays today and they both work. I have two yellow wires going into each one and they have 12v at all four yellow wires when i turn the key on. Does anyone know how to test the wires coming out of the controller that go to the emergency stop relays ? They dont have the colors of the wires printed on the wiring diagram. Not that it matters , i think Gehl uses a different wiring harness with different colored wires, I cant find any colors that match up on my machine with any of the relays.
What is the color of the wire that goes from the fuse to the #1 emergency stop relay ,it has WL on the diagram. And what color is the wire that goes from the #2 emergency relay to the emergency relay ,it has LB on the diagram.
So i have 2 brand new relays in the K and L spot. Stop Solenoid Relay tests fine. What I am thinking is the the 2 emergency relays in the guage cluster, both test fine (See pic). Behavior is no power on the hold in circuit, power on the pull in circuit is for a few seconds when the key first turns on. Then turns off. I am just at a loss, and throwing parts aint cheap. Anyone see the tell tell sign that the gauge cluster board is bad?
Drummer, i have the same problem. In the second picture that you posted there is a pink wire and two white wires with blue stripes going into the circuit board at the lower right side in the picture. If you power up the third wire in from the end of the plug your fuel shutoff solenoid should hold when you turn the key on. it will be the white with blue stripe wire ,two wires over from the pink one. I don't know what that means because i don't know where the white with blue wires go to when they come out of the cluster. maybe Heymccall knows. I gave up working on it today but i am getting closer. I will let you know if i figure it out
Third wire from the end comes from the fuse box. It changes over to just white wire at the connection. The second from the end goes to relay K. I’m assuming this is signal wire I do have power to there, but that is where it stops. Can someone explain signal into relay K and signal out? These are 2 brand new relays. About the only thing I haven’t checked is ground on the solenoid, wouldn’t think that would keep the hold in wire from no power while testing.
I finally have been able to track the wire that energizes the hold in wire coming out of the relay (k). I powered the white wire going into one of the pigtails to the relay, and the hold circuit works. I traced it back to 2 small white wires that are tapped off the big white wire that comes out of the stop solenoid relay. The relay only gives power for a few seconds the turns off. Is my thinking right the dead end seams to point at the stop solenoid relay?
i think that is the pull circuit that gives power for a few seconds then the hold circuit takes over. That white wire that energizes relay K comes from one of the two emergency relays that are soldered into the cluster circuit board. I am still trying to find out how to test them,instead of replacing the board. its very expensive.
I have 2 relays inside the cluster but they are not soldered to the board. I tested those and I think they are good. That board is 700-800, I’m snot wanting to buy one either. The white wire going into K traces back to the pull in circuit white. but is the only wire that energizes the hold in circuit. You got a pic of the relays on the board?
Sorry i can take a picture but i have no clue of how to show it to you on this forum site. this forum is not user friendly and the help button only tells you how to post smiley faces.
I see the relays on the second picture you posted of the circuit board. They are at the bottom right,between that clump of pink wires. One is out in the open but you can only see half of the second one behind the wires. If you look real close i think there is a diagram printed on them of how they work,but i dont know how to test them and no one got back to me when i posted it.
Today I ran a 20 amp fused 12Ga wire from a loose orange wire from the ignition switch to the red wire at the solenoid. The unit runs. Its not how I want to fix it, but I need the machine. I'm not up for buying a new cluster (if that is what it is) right now. Will this harm the mahine long term?
T'aint hard. Look at the bottom LH corner of the box where you write your replies. Click on the "attach files" paperclip, and then go to wherever your photo files are located on your PC or phone. Select the ones you want and away you go. You are limited to a maximum of 4 photos per reply though.
Here is another way to post an image. It may only work with an image. I haven't tried a file like .text or .pdf.
Thanks Nige and tinkerer I will try it.
So my temporary fix of running a fused line to the red starter solenoid failed too. The machine cut off after about 5 min of running, I tried starting it back and started smelling smoke. The stop solenoid was pretty hot. Is my only option to replace the gauge cluster at this point. I’ve replaced both of the other relays that are in the fuel stop circuit.
That happened to me once, when i tried running a direct line. I must have wired direct about 2 dozen times just to move the machine out of the way. But it only fried the solenoid one time. I can'nt figure out why it did it. Now i am afraid to wire direct. Lucky for me i had an old injection pump with a good solenoid on it.
I am still looking for answers. I put a new solenoid and I am back to square one. No power on the hold in circuit. Just can’t find the signal wire that triggers the hold in circuit to hold 12v.
Anyone know if there is specific codes the warning lamps give off? I still can’t get my machine going, but notice now the warning triangle flashes top half, bottom half.
Glad to say, New gauge cluster fixed the issue, hated it costs so much, but hopefully this is behind me! Thanks for the help everyone!
Well, I'm back and feel link the nightware wont end. Had the machine out after installing the Cluster and both relays, and the machine just stopped, no hydraulics, or movement, but it runs. Went back next day, got the machine moved back to the garage, realized if I hit the float switch, it would stop. Also no horn. So today I dig into the horn issue, found a suspect wire at the fuse block, repaired and hoped this would fix my issue. Horn works, it runs, but wont move, and now my battery light is flashing. One of the relays buzzes at times. Just at a loss. Anyone have ideas?
You’re not alone when it comes to chasing electrical issues on machines. We have a TL 10 where the float switch is working properly for the first minute of operation (cold only, restarts do not fix the issue). The arms raise property, but the moment you use the joystick to bring the arms down the float function brings the arms down without control until you pull back on the joystick to pause the float function. (Float light not illuminated on cluster.) We have chased wires, swapped relays and tried not to involve the parts cannon yet. Years about we had a TL130 and TL140. Both ran strong but the electrical was always a challenge. Sometimes giving the relay panel in front of the operators feet a kick would solve everything. My best advice. -check the battery. There is heavy vibration and loose connections was our issue a few times. -safely lift operators cab and visually inspect for damage. Start the machine and wiggle different wiring harnesses to locate the issue. *you can put the lap bar down and start, even move the machine while the cab is up. Be extremely careful, there is a safety pin for the cab when up.* -test light all the fuses. I’ve had fuses visually look good and not work. -it’s uncommon, check lap bar safety circuit Hope this helps
Yeah a little encouragement goes a long way. I’ll get the wiring diagram another look. Looks like the circuit goes thru the charge circuit, then the arm float circuit. I have not tested to make sure the alternator is charging, battery light blinks then is off. But float circuit doesn’t work, and the machine won’t move. I’ll Make sure the safety bar switch is working too. Thanks
I’m on my way to sort out electrical gremlins in the TL10 today. If I find something fun… I’ll post a picture of the issue(s).
When you find a bunch of non-factory zip ties and butt splice in the belly pan mud… you know someone with expert repair skills has been limping the machine along after each major breakdown. Cheers to all the electrical gremlins out there.
I made that mistake before I bought the gauge cluster. Just hoping my hot wiring skills didn’t ruin other systems. It smoked the fuel stop solenoid, got that fixed, it runs, just intermittent when it wants to move.
After finding wiring fairly damaged on my TL10 project, went back to the basics. The alternator is going wild, pushing 18.5 bolts at the battery. We bought the digital copy of the service manual. It’s amazing, it’s very detailed. Make sure your searching your correct serial number and some features may not be on your machine.
Well I started today checking the battery, good , lapbar switch….intermittent. Started checking fuses, float arm fuse tested intermittent. Looked a little crusty but I could get it to test if I moved the probes around a little. replaced with a new one and all is well, only to have a leaky radiator hose and starting to get hot. I’ll take the win on the electrical. Thanks for all the help everyone.
Very nice. Compact track loaders see heavy vibrations transferred when operating on hard surfaces. If you have a temperature sensor in the upper radiator house coupling. Replace it when it’s looking iffy. It was the source of 2 machines having the triangle warning shut down. Be safe, keep the tracks dirt side.