The other day I was backing up slowly and the unit just stopped and now no hydraulic functions. Also it is making a funny noise. Sounds like maybe a pump but not sure if there is a coupling or something else that could be the issue. Unit has been and was working fine up to the point it just stopped. No funny noises or anything like that and no warning but it just stopped moving. Hydraulic oil and filters are relatively fresh maybe 50 hours or so. Machine has about 4400 hours on it. I have read the other posts about electrical issues and was hoping it was something of that nature but I think maybe my problem is not electrical. Has anyone else experienced this or heard about something like this happening?
I've had the entire pump assembly fall off (sheared bolts) on all 3 of my TL150 machines.
Come to think about it when I changed the pilot filter the top pump bolt to housing bolt was loose. I tightened it up but did not check the lower bolt. Maybe I get lucky and that is my problem also as the noise really doesn't sound like the pump is grinding on the inside like it came apart, or maybe that is my wishful thinking...lol, so I am hoping the coupling failed but was also hoping to hear if that is very common problem. I haven't raised the lid yet but just trying to get a jump on the issue. Thank you sir for your helpful response!
I think this is what the coupling would look like. Never heard of one fail on a tl140 though. Try kicking the panel below the door, in front of your feet, just to make sure it's not a relay issue.
Thank you for the pic Skata. I was wondering what that coupling looks like. I finally had a chance to check it out last night and the top pump housing bolt is backed out about 1/4" or so and I can see a gap between the pump and the bell housing so the lower bolt is probably also loose. I did not realize the pump bolts were a maintenance item...lol. I fired it up and it sounds like the noise is coming from the bellhousing so I think the coupling is the most likely culprit. Thank you for the tip Heymccall.
Well I pulled the pumps and the coupling was not the problem but the splines were worn off the input shaft. I have a new coupling but now I need a new input shaft also. It looks like it may come out the front of the pump but not sure if you can pull it out and replace it without tearing the pump down. Does anyone know the best way to change the input shaft? I am not afraid of tearing down the pump but would rather not if it is not necessary.
Takeuchi wants $330UsD for said shaft. #57 in above drawing.
Thank you sir. Got it on the way. The $20 front seal cost almost as much as the shaft because I had to buy the whole dang set just for one seal...lol.
On my TL150 machines, the pump to flywheel cover bolts were Allen headed M12, yet the pump mounting holes were engineered for 1/2 fasteners. So, I drilled and tapped the flywheel cover for 1/2" and purchased 12pt headed 1/2" bolts. The Allen heads required modified tools to tighten, whereas the 12pt headed bolts allowed normal wrenches to be used. And, collapsed engine mounts are the suspected cause of the pump falling off/ breaking fasteners.
That thing is terrible to try and put back together. I had to bend some allen wrenches and do a whole lot of cussing to get it back in but I did finally have success. I did consider studs and 12pt nuts but could not find them in metric so I went back with socket head. I did not consider to use 1/2" -20 but that is a really good idea. I wished I would have seen this before I put it back together.
Ohh and FYI I put a new front bearing in the trans. Takeuchi wanted $650 but I found one at LJ Fluid Power in Michigan for 100 bucks and he had it on the shelf. I wish I would have found him before I paid Takeuchi $250 for the $10 front seal...lol.
For the next guy... I'm not certain this is the correct length, but, 1/2-13 is what I tapped the flywheel cover for.
Thank you sir!
alandudley, what did it take to replace that shaft? Did you remove the entire pump assembly or just the first pump? TIA
For the next guy... I used 1/2-20 with loctite because I figured the bolts ended up breaking because they had loosened... just a guess. Since the bolts are a little larger diameter than stock I'd also open up the holes a little bit in the pump as it's hard to get the larger bolts lined up and started. I ended up pulling the first pump and the little gear pumps on the end. I used a ratchet strap connected to the lift arms to help hold and position the pump assembly. The coupler splines were in bad shape but there were good splines on the other end so I flipped the coupler. Took 10 gallons of oil. Don't forget to bleed before running. Bleed screw is that plug on top of the second pump. Think its a 14 or 15 mm allen.
Why did you choose to not use factory bolts? I did it because the stock allen headed bolt is impossible to torque properly, or even easily tighten, on the bottom position.
yeah, same reason as you. Really appreciate you posting your solution. If you have one of those ratcheting box end wrenches it makes it a breeze compared to the allen screws.