TL230-2 wont start, I have power to the switch when it is turned on display lights up and cycles, when you turn to start position i have nothing. I had issue before where it would start and run but when it was throttled up past half throttle it would die as if the key was turned off. move throttle back to idle and unit would restart. I have replaced the shut down solenoid, shut down relay and shut down solenoid diode. with that said I have power to the hold side of shut down solenoid and can put power to the pull side and it will engage and hold and i can jump the start wire at the safety relay and it will start bau as soon as i move the throttle lever it will shut down. I have power on all 4 wires of the safety relay so im not sure if its the issue. this is an issue i have never seen before so im at a loss. any help would be great
If you have a copy of the shematics for that unit, post it up and maybe the help will come. I have schematics for TL-150 but not your unit, probably some differences is my experience,. When you say you have power to the switch, do you mean the key switch.? Simon C
Before replacing anything else, check the alternator tach/control circuit. The TL230-2 safety relay uses the alternator signal as part of the start/run interlock. Having 12V on all four safety-relay wires doesn't necessarily mean the relay is being commanded correctly. Your old symptom — running normally at idle but shutting off like the key was turned off when throttle went past 1/2 — makes the alternator signal or its wiring especially suspicious. Check the alternator connector, the switched 12V to the alternator, and the signal wire from the alternator to the safety relay. Measure the actual voltage on all four safety-relay terminals with key ON and again while cranking. Also check the signal while slowly increasing RPM. There is a documented TL230-2 case with very similar no-start symptoms that was ultimately traced to the alternator/control signal, and another was fixed by replacing the alternator. I would verify that circuit before throwing more shutdown parts at it.
THANKS LET ME CHECK THAT
If either of you gentleman have the schematics for that unit, would not mind having a copy if it was possible. It makes diagnostics way easier. Simon C
Just taking off to do a job, but will look more closely at the schematics which are very clear in next day. Thanks Simon C
ok I checked and i have voltage at the signal wire ( YELLOW) on the alternator and battery voltage at the batt terminal on the alternator. If i jump the relays i can crank it and it will run up to 3/4 throttle. at that rpm the voltage is only12.2 and i still have power at both leads on the alt. voltage should be pushing close to 14 and also i replaced the shock on the lap bar and now the lap bar alarm is sounding but it makes no difference on the start circuit whether lap bar is up or down. this leads me to be leave the alt is bad. am i correct in this thought?
sorry yellow wire is battery lead, blue wire showed 2.4v i checked fuses and the alt fuse was not blown but very dirty i replaced it and now the alt is charging 13.55v at half throttle but unit still wont crank with the key
So was looking at your schematics and here are a few things: 1- You are correct in that the 5Y wire at Alternator is the output and feeds the entire fuse panel, it also feeds through a splice in the wire The Glow Control, Starter Relay and Stop Solenoid Relay. These are the main power for these items, but the control of these powers comes from elsewhere. 2- Key Switch .- Have you checked with a bulb to see if there is power with Key turned to start position to BR-2, ACC-15, R1-40, R2-40 and to the C -Terminal on the back of the switch. If you look next to the pictorial of the Key Switch there is a round Circle with all the letters on it that lead to plug ins and a Diode. Need to verify where the power is and where it is not. Am going to look at a few more things. Simon C
Starter IL Relay NO Terminal comes from Computer X21 Starter SWST terminal. Starter IL Relay is controlled by Y08 of Computer. Some plug ins, when they get hot or relay when it gets hot is dropping out most likely. Might have to do some 5 amp Bulb tests to rule out what is and what is not handling heat, vibration and corrosion.. Simon C
i will check those today