Bought this from a guy near me. Six cylinder JD diesel. Guy said it weighed 6 tons when I first went to see it a year ago. This time he said he had no idea. Felt like more than 6 on the ride home. Vibrating function seems to work well, it was bouncing itself sideways across the yard. Battery was dead by the time I got back and had to pull it off the trailer with the backhoe.
Nice looking old roller. What's your plans for it?
Just to maintain the lane at work for now, we'll see what the future brings. With those duel steel rollers it's not the easiest thing to load so don't think I'll be running around much with it.
I bet it was a challenged to get it on that tag trailer, what did it take to get it loaded? Couldn't get my trench roller up a folding tail Landoll, little bugger would make it 1/2 way and slide down. Ended up loading with a Lull on site.
The guy I bought it from thought he was going to just drive it up, half way there he started going sideways. Back down and laid some rubber on the ramps and made another run, no good. Pushed it up with the backhoe. Here's me pulling it off with my 410B.
Pulled the 14 year old battery out yesterday and picked up a new one at Interstate. Pulled both battery cables and will make up some new ones out of some 2/0 pre tined that I have. The old B- ran to the ‘sheet metal’, in this case ¼” plate, will probably leave that and add a second directly to the engine block. Throttle cable was a bit rusted so I pulled that out and stuffed it in a 5 gallon can of used crankcase oil. Opened the drain on the water separation filter and got a slow trickle of brown crud so I pulled the filter,..what the H#!! is this cr@P! Looks like I might be dropping the fuel tank out of this thing.
Looks like algae in the tank. I would flush the tank, add algaecide and get some extra filters.
That's what I was thinking, any recommendations on algaecide?
I've use the Power Service products algaecide once when I had an issue with a T250 skid, not as bad as this but it clogged up the entire fuel system. We drained the tank, flushed it, changed the filters and followed the instructions. A filter or two later and we didn't have any other issues. Depending on how much algae is in there it may take a few flushings and filters. It's fixable though.
Yeah CM1995 , I've always used Power Services Cetane Boost, great product. Is this the biocide you're referring to?; http://powerservice.com/psp_product/bio-kleen-diesel-fuel-biocide/ Thanks.
Drained the contents of the tank today. Ran it through a nylon paint strainer into clean 5 gallon buckets. Got about 12 gallons out. Flowed real well, poured it back into the tank through a screened funnel three times and came up with very little. Just a little more slime, nothing magnetic (no rust). I think the water separation filter might of caught it all. Pulled all the fuel lines off and ordered a new filter mounting base and three more filters.
Yes that is what I used. I like their products, it worked well.
Ok, so I totally bypassed the existing old canister style filters, and I moved the primary water separation/fuel filter base up closer to the fuel tank and installed a new filter Wix # 33123 . Added a second filter mounting base Wix # 24770 and a 2 micron fuel filter Wix # 33528 . I removed and cleaned out all the fuel lines up to the injector pump and reinstalled. I made up new battery cables and installed a new battery. Re installed the throttle cable and reworked it so it was mounted with a better angle to the throttle lever and at the other end to the injector pump. Added 5 gallons of fresh fuel. Filled the power steering reservoir. Couldn’t find any of the Bio Kleen at the store on the way in but did get some of this; http://powerservice.com/psp_product/clear-diesel-fuel-tank-cleaner/ And fired it up! Very happy. Engine sounded great, controls all worked as they should, steered well and vibrating function was excellent, only had three fillings drop out of my teeth! (hit the water separation filter with the front roller at full steering lock, guess I’ll be moving that again)
Unit Id tag. Essick, model number VR54RD, Serial number 62645926. Haven't found any info on these units online. Going to try and call Multiquip on Monday.
OK, so where was I... Got an email back from Multiquip. Only info available is that it is a 1965 model year unit.
Got quite a bit of use out of the roller last fall and this past spring. Did a little service to it before putting it to use, http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?p=349726#post349726 Always had to jump it with my backhoe as the battery just wasn't up to all the glow plug and cranking, but still always started and ran nice.
Early last spring I pulled the steering cylinder out and had it rebuilt along with two new hydraulic hoses.
That art-deco girl looks a lot like a Galion 10 ton roller. I never saw a vib. version of a Galion but they were rumored to be made. Did you ever find out where it was made?
Nope. Just model year. Same age as me.
Didn’t have much use for it during the summer, so it just sat. Became a good home for every wasp, yellow jacket and white faced hornet around! Couldn’t even get close to that thing. When fall came around guess what?, yeah. It wouldn’t start. So, after one over zealous attempt to get it going I decided it was time for some more work. Pulled out the old canister fuel filters that I had by passed last year and replaced the dry rotted fuel lines.
Decided to add a boost pump. Called Airtex, (800-424-7839) tech line to get a recommendation on a pump and, after describing my situation they recommended their model E8090; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000DN7VL...UTF8&colid=262QBV170RD6O&coliid=IT0Z53NYW4Z17 Man, this is one rugged pump!
Installed it between the two filters.
Triggered it with one of these relays; http://www.wiringproducts.com/40-amp-automotive-relay-with-metal-tab.html Using one of these circuit breakers; http://www.wiringproducts.com/10-amp-short-stop-auto-reset-circuit-breaker-12-volt-right-angle.html All in one of these boxes; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BSRI...lid=262QBV170RD6O&coliid=I1HUXSP4WLVUTK&psc=1
Pulled the air filter housing out. The way it was installed, there was no way to get the filter out. Don't think it had been replaced for quite some time. Ordered up a new Air Filter, Wix part number 42689 ; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014BEP4...TF8&colid=262QBV170RD6O&coliid=I11BZQQX0XLALG
After reading up on the 282 glow plugs here; http://www.redpowermagazine.com/forums/topic/98210-ih-282-diesel-no-start-diagnosis/ and noting that Steiner tractors makes it clear that if you give these things more that 11 volts you will burn them out; http://www.steinertractor.com/IHS1604-glow-plug I started to think that my habit of jumping this thing with my backhoe might not be such a good idea:Banghead. So,.. I pulled all the glow plugs, cleaned them all up (they did look to be in good shape), bench tested them(they all still worked!) and reinstalled.
So yesterday was the day. It was in the mid 50's, best chance I was going to have on getting this beast going. Battery fully charged, remote starter in hand and a 3/4" open end wrench to crack the injectors. Got it cranking and cracked the first injector. Wouldn't you know this thing was blowing smoke and trying to start! Normally they say 60 seconds on the glow plugs to even get these things to think about starting. So I crawled out from underneath, jumped up on top and hit the glow plug switch for 20 seconds. Hit the starter button and it started popin' off! Stumbled and died. 10 more seconds on the glow plugs and off she went again! This time for good! I jumped down and grabbed my 'phone to get a picture of the cloud of smoke and.. uh oh, I forgot to attach the fuel return line to the tank! Oh well, I took a good shower in diesel before I could get that line snaked through the housing and into the tank, but, I sure wasn't going to shut it down. Very happy now. :thumbsup
I don't know about rollers but this thing is cool.
That makes two of us Brodiesel , but I sure have a good time runnin' this thing! And the neighbors get a kick out of it too. They hear the rumbling and start wondering why their dishes are rattling on the shelves so they come outside to find out what's going on!
Wow, can't find my own threads on this new site!
Figured it out, I think... Click on "Watched Threads"
Then click on "Show all watched treads"
Roller's been running well. I don't use it much but when I do, it fires right up and works well. The boost pump and the heavy battery cables make a big difference. 45 seconds on the glow plugs and off she goes!
The last time I was running it I, unfortunately, noticed that I have a coolant leak. Looks like I may have a blown head gasket. Picture's kinda hard to figure out, but,... that's the right side of the D-282, leaking down the side of the block between those two freeze plugs.
Ordered up the engine manual; HeavyEquipmentForums
Ordered up the engine Service Manual; http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/IHSENG460ETC_8572.htm View attachment 169177
This roller is really such a cool machine to operate. How many 6 cylinder diesel machines do you get to just stand on? No ROPS. No seat belt. Just stand on top. You can sit down when you're rolling backwards which is kinda interesting cause you gotta steer in reverse of when you're standing.
It's actually a hydro drive with a pump on the front of the International 282 diesel feeding a hydraulic motor, gear reduction unit and chain drive to the rear drum.
There's even a brake actuated by a hand lever.
There is also a twin disc clutch mounted on the flywheel end of the engine. It is controlled by one of two foot levers and a series of linkage. This is what drives the eccentric on the rear drum for the vibratory function.
The 12' long triple v belt.
Man,... I hate allen head set screws :headbanging:
Yup... someone's been in here before me...
Clutch is off.
So I finally got a chance to get back to this project. Took a ride the other day and picked up my new clutch.
And, after I cleaned up the flywheel, I installed the new pilot bearing and chased out all the threads.
Then I installed the new drive ring with new grade 8 bolts and a little blue lock-tite that I picked up on my way home the other night.
And, I installed the new clutch and connected the linkage.
So here’s the good news. The new clutch is in! Since I didn’t need the handle that came with I decided to cut off the hex end and install it on the free end of the cross shaft. Now I have a way to easily check the engagement force.
As the roller has been sitting unused since late last fall I dropped a freshly charged battery in, added a relay upgrade to get full amps to the starter mounted solenoid, checked the fluids and fired up! Drove down the lane so I could roll out the new driveway that I been building up with some of that poor mans gravel I been making… HeavyEquipmentForums …and test and adjust the clutch before installing the side covers. I ran the roller for about 20 minutes and was quite pleased with the performance, just like new!
And now for the bad news; Unfortunately, the brief elation quickly turned to deep sorrow. Upon shutdown I heard what sounded like hissing from the radiator. My first thought was “didn’t run that ol’ boy long enough to overheat” Hmmm… It was the end of the day so I left it to cool off overnight and in the morning found the radiator down 3 gallons and yup, you guest it… water in the oil. :headbangin’:
Liners?
Well, that’s a good question. And one that I could use some input on so thanks for commenting. Here’s some more info and a little back story; First off this is a 1965 International 282 diesel. If you look back to post #33 you’ll see that this machine has had a coolant leak for some time. The leak was from the head gasket and was always to the outside of the block. Last fall I did a flush and fill of the cooling system. My guess is that is what did me in. Prolly dissolved a bunch of old crud ( or old stop leak from some previous owner) that was keeping this thing together. Currently the roller is in a bad spot to work on so today I was hoping to move it back to the machine shed. I drained the oil (and 3 gallons of coolant) from the oil pan. Changed the filter and added fresh oil. Then I tried to crank the engine. No go. The starter tries ( 12.7 volts at the battery) but the engine will not turn. I added a gallon of water to the radiator and it went right into the oil pan. All input would be greatly appreciated.
The D282 doesn't have liners. Famous for blowing head gaskets and cracking heads, though. When flushing, let it cool off before draining and take your time.
I believe the 282 has dry liners
So here are things about the 282 that I think I know; Heads are prone to crack. That’s why I was putting off replacing the head gasket as long as the leak was small and to the outside of the block. 14 head bolts is not enough and is considered a design flaw. This is one of the primary reasons that these motors blow head gaskets, heads come loose. That’s why I re-torqued the head bolts shortly after I purchased this machine. The other reason for blown head gaskets is a dropped liner. The manual lists the spec for deck protrusion so yes they have liners. Things that I’m sure that I don’t know; What failure would allow coolant to flow directly from the radiator into the oil pan while the engine is not running, like, pour water into the radiator and it flows directly into the oil pan!#*!? Blown head gasket?, dropped liner? Cracked block? All of the above? What I have to decide; *** to do!#*!? In a nutshell, rebuild or repower. (Sorry, no picture)
Time to take it home.
Came off quicker than it went on.
Does it have a gear driven water pump or a water/oil cooler
I think I see where you're going with that Mike, belt driven water pump, no oil cooler. Thanks for the comment!
Time to get workin' on this...
After removing the top deck plates I have good access to the top of the engine. I removed the intake manifold, valve cover, exhaust manifold. I pulled the glow plugs and disconnected the fuel lines from the injectors.
And I dropped the oil pan. That was enough as I already worked a full day. I'll have to look through my manual tonight so I can set the engine to TDC before I go any further. I wonder if there's a way to lock the engine at TDC like on my John Deere?
Today’s progress; Drained the coolant from the block. After cleaning years worth of crud off the front of the block I finally found the timing pointer and marks. I engaged the PTO clutch and, using a large pipe wrench on the stub shaft, rotated the crank till I lined up the timing marks. I then verified that No. 1 piston was at TDC on the compression stroke by verifying that the push rods were free to move. I also removed the side cover from the injection pump to check the timing marks there but saw only one. No corresponding mark. I believe timing is 2 degrees BTDC so if I back off No. 1 a bit I may find the other mark. I’ll check that later before I get into pulling the pump.
Next I loosened all the lock nuts on the rockers and backed off the valve lash adjustment screws to relieve the tension on the rocker arms before I broke all the head bolts free. Then I was able to back off the head bolts in stages following the reverse order of the torque sequence listed in the manual. I removed the rocker arm assemblies and the push rods to a cardboard box. I lifted the head from the block.
Head gasket's toast...
Picked up the head today from the machine shop. Besides having several cracks in the injector ports, when pressurized, it leaked like a sieve.
Started cleaning up the top of the block.
Pistons 1, 2 and 6 look like this...
3, 4 and 5...
At this point I am almost certain that I will not rebuild the International UD 282 engine in this machine. From my research, it is apparent that the 282 is notorious for blowing head gaskets and cracking heads. And, as the head that I have will either need to be replaced or repaired and then rebuilt, the estimated $1,600.00 for that service would be better off spent in other ways. In addition, another $1000.00 for a piston/rod/sleeve/bearing rebuild kit… plus new or rebuilt injectors...plus rebuilt injector pump..and on and on...for an antique power plant that makes 75 HP. Lately I have been considering repowering with a Cummins 4B. Considerations; the front of the crank will drive a hydraulic pump. The flywheel end will have a twin disc clutch on it. There is plenty of room in the engine bay so space is not much of a consideration. Any thoughts?, or recommendations of other engine options?
How 'bout this for an option? https://boston.craigslist.org/sob/bpo/d/hull-371-detroit-diesel-engine/7118904364.html With a rated HP of 84 at 1600 rpm I would think that the 3-71 would be worth considering as the existing UD 282 has a max HP rating of 70. Or would I just be trading one obsolete power plant for another???
A 3-71 is not really obsolete, as there were so many. The only concern I really have is that it doesn't really like slow speed operation. On edit: Uh oh, that's marinized. You would have to change manifolds, and cooling system. You would probably be better off finding something that worked on land.
Ha! Guess I'll have to build a boat!
So I’ve been looking into the feasibility of a Cummins 4bt swap and here are a few items that I’m working out. -If you go back to page 3 you’ll see that I just purchased a new PTO clutch for this machine. The clutch is for a #2 SAE bellhousing and has a 8” disc. I would really like to be able to use it to avoid any additional cost. The cummins is available with a #2 SAE bellhousing so that will work but the flywheel is for a 10” disc. I believe that I can get an adaptor drive ring from these folks; https://phxgrp.com/engine-auxiliary/driveline-adapters/ . My concern is that the 8” clutch may be inadequate for the additional power of the Cummins. So my options here would be; -Bite the bullet and buy a new Over Center Clutch to go with the new engine. -Use the clutch I have and buy a adaptor drive ring. -Replace the disc portion of the clutch I have with a 10” disc assembly. Thoughts?
If the clutch only drives the vibratory system on the roller, then it should be just fine. It is a fixed input power item that will only use so much power at a set RPM. If the extra HP on the 4BT is worrisome, you can always adjust down the fuel rate to the power level the IH had.
Thanks for that repowerguy, I appreciate the input! Next item; If you go back to post #37, you’ll see that the roller is currently driven by a hydraulic pump driven off of the front of the 282’s crankshaft. The pump is currently connected via a lovejoy coupling. The Cummins has an available crankshaft flange, ( item #2 below & Cummins part # 3903829) that I understand is to drive front mounted accessories. It is also possible to flip the fan mounting bracket to gain additional clearance between the fan and the crankshaft centerline. Doing so will still only provide 2.67 inches of clearance between the fan and crank CL. I may have to swap the fan for a smaller diameter one and probably connect the pump via a driveshaft to clear the bottom of the radiator. I will have to pull the numbers off the hydraulic pump to see what the power requirements are… My question is, does anyone know if there is a horsepower load limit on that Cummins crankshaft flange? How about on the crankshaft snout itself?
Don't know what the power limit is, but the front drive on a 590 and a 680 Case hoe will be pretty heavy at full load. You may want to look at a front drive off of a Case hoe to see if it could fit your needs, a used one should be cheaper.
Good idea there, thanks! Or make the existing drive coupling work with the Cummins...
Since you bring it up; We have a wood chipper at worker that has a Cummins 4bt. It is set up to run at 2300rpm. I cannot imagine running the Essick roller with the engine cranked up like that. As I was firing up the wood chipper yesterday I was thinking about the roller and when I had the Cummins at about 1600 rpm I felt that sounded maximum. This is from the engine distributor that I have been talking to; “Our 4BT105HP package uses an industrial (rather than automotive) RSV governor that is designed for construction equipment such as a skid steer, tractor, wood chipper, etc. The RSV governor is better at keeping the rpm steady as load on the engine varies. This particular fuel rating has it’s peak HP rating at 2800rpm, and peak torque at 1500-1600rpm. You will get better performance from the engine in the 1600 – 2200 rpm range” So, should I be considering adjusting the fuel at the injector pump? Anything else? Better off ordering it setup that way? Wait till, if I get it all installed and make minor adjustments based on use?
Maybe message the pumpguy and get him to give some input.
Correction: #3 bellhousing/clutch. :thumbsup: