D3B lift cylinders and manual list 800 ft lb +/- 80 on the piston bolt. Bolt is a 7/8-14 thread My torque wrench goes to 600, so looked up turn to torque and it list Turn torque = pre torque 480 ft lb then 1/3 more Torqued to 480 then using a 3/4 impact was only managed to turn the bolt another 30 to 35 degrees. The bolt does have a nylock insert so thinking it won't back off, but not 100%. Need either a way to get it an additional 30 degrees or is it good enough
Does it max out your torque wrench? I think I'd use a long bar on a socket than depend on an impact wrench. Not sure if the bolt would be the same as a track bolt. Maybe you could take it to a shop to have the nut torqued?
Yes, my wrench goes to 600 Could look around for someone which can torque it, or haul to Bowling green to CAT
If you have a 3/4 drive ratchet or breaker bar that you can get just over 4 feet of handle on hang a 200 lb man off the end of it and it will be 800 lb/ft .
Do have a 2 ft 3/4 ratchet. Do have the shaft, bolt and piston marked, so will give the bar a try, thanks Just need to find a bar that will work, have mostly thin wall lying around
I like the 3/4 rachet and 6ft cheater pipe method myself
I'd prefer to pull on a breaker bar than a ratchet, unless the ratchet is way over-capacity for what I think I'm likely to be pulling. If you didn't replace the Nyloc nut the perceived wisdom is to add some Loctite Threadlocker to the threads on the rod before installing the nut. I've seen them come loose in the same location on cylinders for other applications.
Have to agree, don't see a 2 ft ratchet being made to take 800. Going to call around to see if I can find someone
It's difficult to find hard and fast numbers but 800ft.lb. appears to be close to the limit of capability for a 3/4" drive ratchet. The issue as I see it is that having tightened to 480 then going plus 60 degrees from that you have no idea what final torque you are actually pulling. You HOPE it is around 800, but in truth you don't know.
It's a D3B lift cylinder, not a 330C stick cylinder. Put some red thread locker on it and pull what you can get. 600 foot pounds and a little more will work fine. I've made slugging wrenches out of 3/4" thick plate and used a twenty pound hammer to loosen the nut and pull them up tight.
Or there is this option: https://www.homedepot.com/p/URREA-3...VJv_jBx3GjgUXEAkYDyABEgKzXfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds No idea of quality but at least there are no pins swivels or other moving parts to fail. Never purchased one from this place but for the price a one time use might make it worth the gamble. Believe I have an actual name brand one out in the tool box. It would cost me more that this one for shipping. Sorry if first link was the wrong one!
Drove up to Froedge in T-ville, where I had my 955 lift cylinders repaired and let them torque. All good now, going to put them back together now Thanks for bouncing the ideas
For future reference I have a westward 3/4 ratchet 30 years old and I don’t think I ever use it without a 4 foot pipe extension. It’s held up to 2 guys pulling on it many times. Probably surpassed 1800 ft lbs a few times.
Mines a Craftsman, about 20 years, and it would probably hold up due to its was before Sears started going down. Just a maybe though
I've got an old Proto ratchet purchased about 40 years ago. A few years ago I needed to get some difficult bolts out on an IH TD-15C. Had a long pipe on my breaker bar and the breaker bar bent. Put the pipe on the Proto ratchet and got everything apart, no bends no break. FWD
I use a torque multiplier (planetary gear type). The one I have is rated to over 2000 ft lb. I know I've twisted off rusted track bolts with it, driving it with only a ½" ratchet.
^^^ +1 on a torque multiplier ....i was begining to wonder if anyone used one on here
I’m currently pulling up new D8 track bolts.Book says 500lb plus a couple of flats.I mark them up and then pull up the old fashioned way with an 1” t bar and 6 foot tube. I’m curious as to the final setting?
I've always just barely been able to pull new track pad bolt up that way. By the end of the third pad I was looking for help to share the pull. I went to using a four to one multiplier to get to that last flat on turn.
I always kind of figured that the torque-then turn specs on track shoes was best left to a big impact wrench to turn the final angles. Both for the speed and not wearing yourself out. The only ones I will hand pull are alligator master bolts so I have a feel of what's going on.
A big impact is nice when you have one to use.
I was just thinking random thoughts and went back to my old man. If he'd seen me pulling a bolt (any bolt) up to final tightness with a ratchet he'd have probably cut my hands off........
That may be so, but if it fits in the torque capacity of the ratchet, that's my preference. Funny thing is I have broken more hinge type breaker bars than fine tooth ratchets. Most of my big stuff (3/4" and 1") is Proto or MAC the MAC 3/4" ratchet has a multi tooth engagement and has seen several 6-8' pipes on it. I know... not cool. Got a few 1-1/2" drive tools too for the super torque stuff. An Autocrane and the hydraulic scale was good for torqueing Wabco 333F wheel bolts and a few other fasteners that required 3200 LB FT.
I have a bent handled Mac ratchet from that. I bought it in 1979 and wore out the ratchet pawl once. Never broke the thing.
Why?
I'm thinking it was likely the old mans ratchet, and that is not what it was made to do. But I could be wrong. cheers
Use a 1 inch drive Snap-On click type torque wrench rated for 1000 ft/lds to torque and break torque on mast nut on Huey helicopters 520 to 780 ft/lb torque range. Have broken quality 3/4 drive gear breaking torque on these. The 1 inch drive is about 4 feet long and comes with a cheater about that long as well.