I just bought a used TR310. I knew it had several problems but I've turned wenches for many years (most vehicles) and I was confident that I could repair them. Experience is king and I have no experience with this model. BTW, previous owner installed a new battery. Here's the list of issues: 1) Quick attach won't move (I don't hear a change in the hydraulics or see the lines move slightly from the pressure change). Don't know if there is a fuse for this. 2) Heat and A/C do not blow hot or cold. Blower motor moves air but it's ambient temperature. A/C compressor clutch does not engage, 30A fuse is good. 3) Wiper doesn't work, fuse is good 4) Glow plug light does not come on. That's it for now, don't know if this could all be tied together or maybe just individual problems but any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Check fuses for quick attach, check switch, for power and ability to switch. If that is good, there should be a solenoid in around main valve body.(manual would help), make sure pins are not seized. Temp switch or temp heater control valve could be inoperable, just like a car. As far as AC, what i normally do is check for constant power at relay terminal, and another power when key or switch is on. If that checks out, you could swap relay with another one. If that doesn't work, then remove AC relay, and jump power usually terminal 30 to 87, this should power AC clutch. IF compressor runs, you should have cool air. However you need to fix temp control first, to verify this. If no cooling, then freon is long gone, or clutch is fried. Try banging on wiper motor when power applied, sometimes worn brushes can stop initial start up. Check fuses for glow plug and or relay, or check for 12v at glow plugs. Could just be your illumination light is out.
Thanks for the response Arny! Quick attach pins were seized...I gave them a couple whacks and lubed them and they work now. I checked fuses and they are good. I will check the relay next ( do you know which controls the heat/AC? There are the following relays: UCM Control, Crank, Front Electric, Option, Lights #1, Lights #2, Main Power & Accessory relays). Also, I was thinking I can check the heat/AC temperature control with an ohm meter to make sure it changes when adjusting the temp? But I'll try jumping the relay and also, smacking the wiper motor. As for the glow plugs, The glow plug light comes on for about 3 seconds. Maybe this is normal for this machine but I'm used to glow plugs coming on for a minute or so, specially with the negative temperatures we've had....Is 3 seconds normal? I have one more thing that has developed, last night some of the joystick function temporarily stopped working. I run the joysticks on "H" controls and I lost the bucket controls. I could still move the tracks. I got out, checked for leaks (nothing), got in, turned the "operate" off and then back on and it started working. This happened three more times. I wish I had paid more attention but I think it happened when the bucket and arms were down (not that this would have anything to do with the problem). Any ideas? One of the guys at the Case Dealer parts counter said that there were a lot of issues with those joysticks but I thought it was strange that I only lost the bucket functions......
If it is a full cab machine, I would check the door switch. That will lock out your bucket functions.
The issues with the joysticks was an issue on the early Alpha models, that issue is not with the joysticks. If you lost the hand controls, if the door is not tight or not making contact it will prevent you from running the bucket controls, but give you track control. The glow plugs time on is dependent on temp. If it starts fine, I would not sweat the time it stays on. They certainly wont stay on for a minute. For me even in the coldest conditions, ten seconds or so is as long as they stay on., As far as heat. There is an electronic valve I have had to replace to give you heat. It is under your feet if I remember correctly.
I think your AC relay should be marked on the fuse cover, or were your relays are located, that's typical. A manual would help. The other terminal to verify in relay connector is ground. Did you visually look to see if AC clutch is engaging. The good thing is, you don't need air right now, we hit -40 Celsius last night, it equals -40 Fahrenheit. ya hoo
I will check that next....The door does close a little funny....like it doesn't fully latch at times....
I will definitely check the door switch! Glow plugs: Ambient temp was about -7F, glow plug light was on for about 3 seconds, engine cranked for about 4-5 seconds before it caught...is that normal for this machine? I haven't had a tilt cab before. I removed the 2 nuts/washers and tried to tilt the cab and holy crap...I couldn't get it to budge. I pried under the mount where I pulled the nuts and it lifted but only a few inches. Am I missing something? Is there an assist cylinder that should make it easier? I can lift a decent amount of weight and I'm hanging on the front of this cab and it won't move. Once I get the cab tilted, I'm assuming that the "heater valve" will be under there?
The AC relay is not marked, unless it's called something else. There is an AC fuse (30 AMP), which is good. I did check the AC clutch and it's definitely not turning. Cold here too but not 40 below....jeez..
Accessing that electronic valve is done by removing the floor plate. The cab is a bit heavy to pull over, but I don't have a big issue with it. I close the door, grab both handles on the exterior of the cab and pull it over. You could take a "come a long" tie it off on a pole or something put a tow strap around the cab and crank it up. Or find someone to help pull it over. You should see what is going under there anyway if you bought it used, but it is not going to make accessing the electronic heater control valve easier.
Got the cab tilted....not much of a mess under there. No leaks and only about a 1/4" of dirt in the bottom. I also got the floor plate off...that was a pain in the ass. It was damn near glued to the body. Anyway, I check voltage at the heater valve. It has voltage on one pin, no voltage on the next and the third voltage varies from 0v-12v when I adjust the temperature knob for the heater/AC. So that tells me the temp potentiometer is working and I would assume the heater valve is inop?
Thats what mine has done. I think over 6 Alphas and two Bravo's I have replaced two of those. Both times on the same machine, I believe it was on a TR340. Beyond that, there is not much else that can go wrong with it. Note: There is very little gap between the steel floor plate and the remote oil line that exits the oil pan. When it packs with a lot of dirt, it will crack the oil pan. I had that happen on a TR320 and removed that remote oil line after that on all other machines. If you keep it clean it is not an issue. That can be hard to do all the time, so something to look at. That remote oil drain takes forever anyway.
I've got the parts ordered, should be able to install this weekend. Thanks for the heads up on the remote oil line. I really appreciate you taking the time to answer my questions!