Have a Case 9010 and putting new rails on what is the best way to put master pin in, no track press in the area
Without having worked on one I couldn't tell you for sure. But my best guess would be maybe, liquid nitrogen for the pin, heat for the links, and one bigass sledge.
How did you get the old one out and is cat the only ones that have the master link to where the four pad bolts hold the link together. Cat is the only U/C's I have ever really messed with and have never needed a pin press Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
The rails were so wore out just removed the pads and rolled the rails off without removing master pin. Yes Cat has a nice system like on my D5h.
too bad you could find a set of cat rails hat would fit lol
Dozers have the easy disconnecting tracks. Hoes do not. To be really farmy on it. Grind down the pin, just slightly and bang er in with a bfg. It's a .005" interference press if i remember. So just make it a 0.002"... If it gets you problems later just weld it in.
On an excavator is there an actual master pin or can you press out any of them to remove the track Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
Excavators, generally speaking have "dry" chains with a master pin to join the two ends. ( "Dry" is a slightly inaccurate description because when new, the cavity between pin and bush is lubricated and has rubber seals to stop the lube getting out, but they don't last too long before the lube leaks out). The master pin should have a dimple or mark like a centre drilling on each end. If you remove any other pin, the track won't separate because of the design of the bush and links. The crocodile style master links are found on SALT (Sealed And Lubricated Track) chains. SALT chains have a more complicated design to keep the lube in longer which gives them a longer life but makes them more expensive. They're usually found on dozers, track loaders etc. All that said, if the physical dimensions are the same, there's nothing to stop someone using dry chains on a TTT or SALT chains on a HEX. I'm not too familiar with Case, but a 9010 is a 25t class machine, right? You need two men (or your wife or sister if she's keen), 14lb sledge (or 28 if you can find one) and what we call a chicken bar. (Long drift with a handle welded to it). Get the links on both sides almost to red heat, start the pin and go for it. Don't stop until the sucker's all the way home. Good luck!
Good day Rsaint There are illustrations and tips at excatech.com, if you drop a line to [email protected] we can send some pages from the manual. Kind regards Uffex
Thanks for the explanation. Like they say you learn something new every day Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
I have a piece of tubing welded to a piece of plate. I put my big drift into the tubing and shim and c-clamp it to the track so that the drift lines up with the pin, because my wife is to smart to hold the bar. Otherwise, like Cmark said, heat the links cherry and beat the heck out of it. I've never seen a press used in the field, though I don't get to spend a lot of time around new equipment and dealer service trucks.
If you can get hold of a couple of gallons of liquid nitrogen to shrink the pins then use that. Just be carefull - it's REAL cold (like -400 degrees)and will burn exposed skin like you wouldn't believe if it happens to splash on it. You'll need something like welding gloves to handle the pin once it's cold but with that level of shrink on it, it ought to almost fall in with just a few taps of the FBH ........
As I recall a 9010 is a PC120 or Cat 312 size machine. It can have the press in master pin with the dimple as described or a "T" head and a cotter pin to hold it in that is just pushed in or hit with a hammer. If you have the press in type the big trick with a hammer is to put something behind the back side of the link to hold it in place to keep the shock moving the pin forward and not just moving the link and loosing the pounding force. Anti-seize the link bores and use an old master pin to line them up and hold them in place. Many times I've put the master link directly under the flanges of a bottom roller and used that to hold when pounding on the end of the pin. Another trick I've used is to not directly hit the master pin with a hammer. I have a bucket pin that I line up on the master. I hit the bucket pin which usually keeps from swelling the end of the master pin. The nitrogen trick is great when working on 20 ton and larger machines but I have cracked the ends of the new master pin several times. You shouldn't need it for this small of a machine.
Depending on the rail manufacture, many 20T and under rails use master pins with a slight taper and have a snapring that hold them in. That style is very easy to install when new. If it is the press fit style with the dimple in the end, I agree that heating the link and womping with a BFH is the way to go if you can't use a press.
You need to use a line up pin to hold everything in line, if not buy the time you heat links, cool pin then start to put togeather there stuck, with a lineup its allready to go.
You might be able to pick up track and use log splitter to push it in.:beatsme
Yair . . . as I have mentioned before, track links are consumables and every hour you spend bashing pins is an hour the tractor is not working. If you are having trouble with a pin . . . like it's tight or jams halfway because you lost your heat just run a vee out of the boss with the oxy, slip the pin in and weld it all together. It's no big deal only next time you may have to fit a new set of links . . . if you are okay with the oxy though you can cut between the rails, blow a hole in the pin and wash it out of the bore. I have been told that heating and welding track links "takes the temper out" and is a no no but from my experience over countless hours I have never seen any evidence of this . . . and we gave out tracks a hard time. Scrub pulling was a unique application as the machines worked at flat out an almost constant second gear . . . very little reverse. It was quite common to walk the machines twenty or thirty miles between jobs and I was not adverse to running backwards . . . it was easier to see phone lines and fences in the dust and I always thought it would even out the wear. Cheers.
On 25ton and down a bit of heat and a 14lb hammer will sort things without any trouble, I hold the bar/drift with my 1 hand then swing the hammer with my other hand and always managed to whack pins in or out, I do have the track press kit upto 150 ton cylinder but its not worth the effort on little links, although tomorrow I am pressing in 2 new links onto a tracked crusher chain (D5 size) but that is due to a Co' request so I do as asked otherwise the hammer gets the task. tctractors
There is .015 difference between pin a hole in rail.
Tctractors, I agree, lots of times it more work pulling out press than pushing a pin, I'm only 150 lbs, sometimes wrestling the hammer and punch takes less effort.
This morning I know I am going to be in some pickle as I need a generator a fork truck or excavator plus all the tooling just to poke in D5 links, its like having all the toys out to do something a hammer can sort fast?? but the Company want the pins pressed in so its their shout, plus when I do this sort of work you often find people gather round gawping at the job in hand, if they had any brains they would keep away as you never know when something might fly? tctractors
I know how you feel Tony. It's like when you put the track recoil spring from a D11 in the press, people stand around gawping when if they had an ounce of intelligence they'd be as far away as possible. If one of those things flies it can easily take someone's head off at 100 yards range............