I need to break the right track on my Case 1150 (straight 1150 no letter) and when I looked for the master pin they all look the same. My D7 has a center punch on the master pin but all of these seem to have a center punch? Any help determining which pin to remove? Thanks
I would take a good look at the inside also. Most if done correct are driven from the inside out. Could be the owner before you just drove it in in reverse. May have to just heat up or burn one out and replace it with a new master pin and tack it with the welder when you go back if needed. Most had a raised or center dimple with it just a thousand smaller on one end or the other. Fun/fun/fun!
Hate to put you thru this but a master can be ID'd by looking to the bushing ends in the connected links. The Master has inserts instead of a solid bushing set of ears, should be able to see the split between the link ears under the shoes.
You sure they don't have a split master (Alligator) link somewhere? One of the track manufacturers liked to do that, all the pins had center marks in them. Drove me nuts.
Thanks for the advice from everyone, I will have to investigate closer!
Looking on Case parts page, if the chains are original, there is a pin which by the picture, may have a larger diameter on one end than the others. It appears to be a press in though. When I've had to work on some equipment for the Hageman Ranch and my own machines without a master link, I've cut a section of track out (3 to 4 pins) and taken it to Cypress Equipment in Pittsburg and had them press it apart. I had broke pins in my hoe track and instead of having someone come out with a mobile track press, I cut the offending section out, had it fixed, weld it back in place, and then to recconect, I polished the new 'master' pin down such that it was a close slip fit. After install on several machines now, I'll take a heavy piece of angle iron, cut a saddle in it such that it will fit under the pin and weld it to the pin, and then loosely anchor it to the track pad with a bolt and nylon lock nut so it can move a little but not turn. I can't stand seeing a pin welded back in place. http://partstore.casece.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr60696ar664077 track chain page
You evidently have not workd on many old loaders, my Allis had to have the pins welded as the link holes were so wallowed but still holding until I get time to swap rails.
Really. Quite a few actually. I fix them as I do to prevent the links becoming wallowed out. To often I see the pin break loose inside the weld in the forward/reverse cycle and then is allowed to turn and wear both the pin and the link. By loosely holding the pin but preventing it from turning, it accounts for the wear already present but wear is then limited to the front to back of hole contact but no rotational wear during loaded flexing. When loaded and turning, what has more contact and ability to hold the pin, ~4" of bushing or ~1.5" of link ears? I don't want to ever allow the wear condition of a worn out link. What I am doing is akin to the loose fit captive master pins of old but in a press fit track chain. Why engineers were too cheap to not use a split master link on chains after Cat's patent ran out I don't know. Makes dealing with newer machines without a press a pain in the *$$.
Mine was too late, previous owner(s) had already done the damage, I just corrected for the time being.
Understandable delema then. I have taken a whole link out when they get that bad. Old stuff takes some real creativity to keep it in the field.
Yair . . . Guday wrwtexan. I'm just curious and don't quite follow your thinking with the angle iron trick. The pin in conventional track chains should be locked into the outer links by the press fit or, in the field, they can be riveted and/or welded . . . all common practice in my world. In the days before SALT we used to flog/gas axe/jelly gun tracks apart sometimes on a daily basis and I had no hesitation in getting links white hot with a couple of rose buds, welding links, welding on plates or whatever else it took to get a machine turning a dollar. (grins) Cheers.
If I can figure out how to post a pic, I'll upload one. Have to get my wife the house techy to do it . Not set up for heating and driving one out, what I have done allows for a quick split and reconnect without much effort like the old master pins or the split links which in humble opinion think should be on all machines. Why make anything more difficult to work on than necessary. To your locked to link point, it is held fairly snug to the pad which prevents it from turning.
I found it easier to upload pics from my phone. Here is the pin on my IH TD20 after pressing it out initialy.
Gotcha wrwtexan. Thanks for reply. Unfortunately I am still having issues with the site and I can't view your picture any larger than a thumbnail. Cheers.
How's this?
I think I found it, was hiding behind a track guard. Only pin with a big indent like this:
Looks right!