Here's a question for the Cat guys here. I have been thinking that it will be soon time to replace my track rollers and carrier rollers on my 953. During my conversation with Al up at Ziegler in Rochester he mentioned that the rollers were used on a lot of models of track loaders and dozers. which got me to thinking, I see rollers advertized for auction on places like Ritchie Bros, and Auction time/tractor house. which brings me to my question. What models used the same rollers? I have an 87 model 53 with twelve rollers total. My serial number is 20z01513 and this machine uses the two bolt end cups that hold the shaft of the roller to the track frame. (I was informed of the update already in the late 90's and subsequent revision to that update) I know there are aftermarket rollers out there too, but for the purpose of this post I wish only to hear about cat rollers and the models they fit on. thanks
The rollers off of a D5H, D6M, D6N, 955E,F,H. I am sure a few others will fit also. You have to be careful about S/N breaks on other machines. The John Deere 700H and 700J also uses this roller. Good Luck, Quick Trax
The single rollers, 8 required 9p-1367 9s-9539 121-0824 310-4912 These are used on: D5H 953B/C D5B 225 215B 951B/C 955L/K 561C The double rollers, 4 required, 9p-1363 121-0827 310-4915 These are uses on: 953C D6n/m D5H 517
Thanks guys! I've got a little time to look around for rollers and we'll deffinatly consider all options. Maybe if I get lucky I can find a set for reasonable price.:usa:usa
Hi Guys This thread seems like the topic I'm trying to explore.. I have a CAT 303 SR (CR) grey machine bought in Thailand Ex Japan.. Great machine - Love the work in can do in tight corners - even mud filled fish ponds I'm learning about the maintenance as I go - Its now time to change out the rollers & I can't find and no spare rollers available - Currently trying to find someone who can repair the seized rollers But next plan is maybe to obtain a different excavator model roller & fit / adjust those to fit the Cat 303 Is there any one who can tell me what other model rollers will fit the 303 Thanks
I'm a newbie to this forum and to heavy equipment (I have a 1969 Cat 955K), but when I needed some rollers I found a local used equipment shop. The fellow I worked with told me that I only needed two single flange rollers (for the rollers directly in front of sprockets)--all the rest could be double flange rollers. That was handy info since single flange rollers are in short supply. I ended up buying two of each.
I'll jump in here with my roller question. 953C BBX with higher 000 serial number with the "hybrid" undercarriage. I don't know exactly why Cat calls it "hybrid" but I do know the chains, pads, sprocket segments and probably more parts, are special to this undercarriage - lucky me. Last time I ordered pads, Cat sent me the wrong ones even thought they had my serial number. The bolt holes did not line up to the chains. Anyway, today I noticed a leaking roller on the left side, the double flanged one 2nd up from the final drives. Since I have a hybrid undercarriage is the roller a different roller or will a "normal" one fit? It's just started to leak, only visible after sitting for a few days. The undercarriage is on run out but only has 3-400 hours on the turn so I have a lot of life left. I'll go ahead and show my lack of mechanics skills and ask - Are these rollers rebuildable?
I am showing the only difference is one has a heavy duty chain w/ 3/4 bolt holes and one has a standard chain w/ 5/8 bolt holes. They are both D5H chains 37 link with a 7.48" pitch. My book shows the bottom rollers, sprockets, top rollers, and idlers are the same. You can have either chain on this machine and the s/n BBX00001--up can have either. Rollers are rebuildable. If they just need to be resealed it might be worth it to buy two $25 seals and a couple o-rings. If you need bearings or a shaft I would check the price of a new roller. Usually its better to buy new aftermarket components than to spend money and time trying to rebuild a component that already has wear on it. Good Luck, QuickTrax
Thanks Quicktrax. :thumbsup I didn't know if the pitch and sprocket segments were different on the "hybrid" tracks or not. I suppose the different bolt holes in the shoes pertains to the difference in the 3/4" and 5/8"? I think mine are 3/4" but I would have to double check. I didn't know if the other components were different or just the chains and pads, thank you for clarifying that. The loader has just shy of 3900 hours so the rollers are all original. I have the same philosophy, replace with new.
If it's just a seal leaking you 'd be just as well having it repaired than going for a whole new roller. Also track rollers can be "re-shelled", that's basically where if the shaft and the end caps are good then you can install those parts in a replacement roller shell that comes compete with new bushes. New face seals, O-rings, & possibly also replace the bolts that fix the end caps into the roller and you're good to go. Probably less than half the cost of a new roller.
Thanks Nige. I lean on members like yourself here that have the mechanical skills and knowledge, as my experience is on the project management/operations end. At this point I believe the roller is dry, as I have ran the loader the last two days and there is no sign of oil on the flanges or track link. The roller has 3900 hours on it and is the first one to show trouble. Would it be cost effective to re-seal it and run the shell through "run-out" of the rest of the undercarriage?
First up there is only one type of roller for your machine. Double flange - 121-0827, Single flange - 121-0824 If the roller tread (wearing surface) has plenty of life left in it then why even consider re-shelling it when replacement seals could do the trick..? I'd personally try to find out ASAP if there is oil in the roller. First, make sure you can loosen the 4 bolts holding the roller cap on, just in case the roller has to come off later. On one end of the roller shaft you'll see a small plastic plug (6Y-0473) installed into a larger rubber stopper (7G-4332). Get a new one of each because you'll probably bugger up both of them getting the small plug out - probably 50 cents for the pair. Drill the small plug out with a drill about 1/8" diameter - either oil will come out of the hole or not. If you get no oil out one option is to pump the roller full of grease through the hole in the stopper where the plug fits. Pump it until grease comes out of the seal flanges then hammer the new plug into it. That should keep you rolling until your pin & bush turn in 400 hours. At that time I'd have the roller off, stripped down and rebuilt with new seals. I wouldn't re-shell one roller in isolation TBH. The other alternative if the roller has no oil in it is to remove it as soon as you determine there is no oil in there, take it to a shop and have the seals replaced, or even do it yourself. Pricing the parts from my local dealer (your prices will be slightly different) it comes out to $50 if one face seal has to be replaced along with the associated O-Rings & snap rings, or $80 for both face seals. Add another $180 to that if the roller needs bushes as well. Hopefully not if it still has a trace of oil in it. Compare that to a complete new roller @ $360. Get your Cat dealer to give you a full Custom Track measurement for the complete undercarriage. If they think there is a sale in it for them you'll get it free. Once you have the report you can look at the wear on everything from rollers to sprockets, idlers to track links, and everything in between and figure out what needs doing. Let them suggest what they would propose for the undercarriage, but then make your own mind up what you want to do with the machine - it's your cash after all.
Just a thought CM, if the roller shell has wear, but not worn out yet, pretty much same condition as the rest of undercarriage, what about pumping roller full of grease to make it roll a few miles more before replacing roller? On edit...well I'll be darned, Nige is already thinking ahead of me. LoL
Yup, but with my maintenance man's hat on I'd be happier to do a "proper job" on it by re-sealing and fill it full of oil again. I was suggesting the grease fill based on the fact that the undercarriage only has 400 hours to a pin & bush turn, and it would be a good stop gap in those circumstances. Problem is that "temporary repairs" have a habit of becoming permanent.
My thoughts exactly, all things have to be considered. If it's nearing time to do more extensive undercarriage work, I'd make an attempt to make it live until then. If undercarriage had a lot of life left, I would either repair or replace roller.
Thanks for the advice fellas, I appreciate it.:drinkup The UC was just turned less than 400 hours ago, with approx. 3900 hours total, not with 400 hours left on it. I hope to get another 2500 hours out of this UC before total replacement. I would guess the other components are 50% worn. Would a rebuild or replacement be the best at this point? Or replace it with a new one and re-seal the old one for a spare?
With that in mind, get a CTS inspection as soon as possible and post the results here. Or failing that do you know what your roller wear percentages were when the pin & bush turn was done..? That will give a good enough guide. BTW post all the wear percentages so that we can see how the undercarriage is performing as a system, not just the rollers in isolation. The major issue IMO would be the major difference in wear between a new replacement roller (if you went that way) and the rest of the undercarriage that could take the new roller out in short order.
Luckily I am friends with my PSR. I can get him to measure it and not have to pretend I am going to replace the UC now.
Even better, because it gives you a "right now" status for the whole system. With that information in front of you decisions come much easier. Generally it's obvious what the best course of action is. It's not what you know, it's who you know ...............