The clutch finally went out of my rig :-( does anybody know were I can find installation instuctions and torque specifications to install the new clutch. It is a Fuller 13 speed.
Check out the Eaton website, or give them a call?
Well, I've done plenty of clutches in the past, but it's been a few years, I have to go off of memory here. Torque? I've been wrenchin' so many years I just do it by feel, but if they're 3/8 bolts, I'd say 40 - 45 ft/lbs max. Installation? Too much to remember for all the details. You have a twin disk pull type clutch, it should be pre-set for initial adjustment and it should have some "small wedge blocks" between release bearing and clutch housing. DO NOT REMOVE THESE BLOCKS! They will come out on clutch installation. I trust the clutch kit came with an alignment shaft. If not, you better find one, or you'll have a cuss fest. The clutch disks should have stickers on them that note "flywheel side". Insert your alignment tool through hole in release bearing. Place one disk on the alignment tool, slide it down to the steel friction plate of the clutch. When you lay that disk on it, the sticker that say's flywheel side should be staring at you. Next, place the steel friction plate on the disk on the clutch. Then place your next clutch disk on the plate, flywheel side sticker looking at you. Your ready to install clutch, and it's a heavy critter. As your bolting down the clutch, you should be able to move the alignment tool in and out without a lot of effort. When you get the clutch bolted to flywheel and get it torqued down, those wedge blocks will come out, the release bearing will rotate freely. Your ready for tranny. Make sure the grease fitting on the release bearing is on the bottom, I believe this places the flat side of the release bearing on top. Place the tranny in high gear so you can rotate the input shaft by turning the driveshaft yoke to line up shaft with clutch splines. Once you get the tranny splined up with the first disk and begin pushing it in, look up through the inspection hole on the bottom so you can engage the forks on the release shaft to the engine side of the release bearing as your sliding the tranny home. Once the tranny is bolted down, look up in the inspection hole. You should see a gap of about 9/16" +/- between release bearing and clutch housing. If it's a lot more or less than that, you'll have to adjust clutch adjusting ring. If it's right there, your ready to connect clutch linkage. And if the 9/16" gap is correct, when you connect linkage, you should have appx 1" free play at clutch pedal. If you have more or less, adjust linkage to obtain 1" free play. And the next part is important, I've chewed on many a truck driver for not letting me (the mechanic) know; when the clutch pedal is out of free play, time to adjust the clutch ring! No free play will destroy a clutch. Hope all goes well for you. That's the best I can remember it.
Thought of something else I learned the hard way. Before you do anything, take both clutch disks and just lay them on the clutch steel friction disk. Make sure all 4 friction tabs are in contact with the steel disk. Flip it over and check again. If just one of those clutch disk friction tabs is bent and not contacting the steel disk (bent tab), it will make it a P I T A to engage transmission! You'll have to take everything back apart. Trust me, do this, it happened to me once, and that's the last time I allowed it to happen!
Thank You ATCO for taking time to write that up , that really saved me from making some big mistakes and thanks Crutch I did find the Eaton website.
Did you find this page? http://www.roadranger.com/Roadranger/servicesalesliterature/index.htm You can choose your model number on the right hand side and it will bring up a whole bunch of information on that transmission. Lots of them have a service and/or installation guide available as a PDF file free for download. :drinkup
I try the disks on the trans- to check the splines. otherwise ATCO covered everything that I can think of.
ATCO, very good write-up, the only thing I can think to add is to be sure and install the clutch brake on the transmission input shaft before installing the transmission. Also when you get the transmission up to the bellhousing check to make sure the gap is uniform all around. It is crucial for the transmission to be sitting on the transmission jack and in perfect alignment with the bellhousing. It is the last push to get the shaft into the pilot bearing that is usually the hang up on getting the transmission in and bolted up.
Ahhhh, it just shows I've worked on too dang many of the things to pull all that stuff out of my head! Darn there's a bunch of junk crammed in there! I'll remind all you drivers what I said previously; Free play at the clutch pedal, keep that clutch adjusted!
Ok, I borrowed one of these clutch jacks off a local guy,so I think I am ready to go.
Wow, I never had one of those! I always had to lift the heavy son of a ***** and stick it in there. Man, you got it made!
also be sure and check the input shaft on the tranny to make sure that the grooves are smooth and no rough worn spots in it this will also cause you problems with the clutch
That's cheating! If this is your first clutch job you are required to lift it by hand out of respect for all of us that have done it that way in the past . Just kidding, those jacks do make life easier. I hope it goes well for you and keep us updated.
I still think it's just plain mean to show us old fart's a pic of that jack!
that a nice jack!!
Hey Red Bank, does your Mack have that monster heavy flywheel that Mack used? The best way I can describe it; if it was laying on the floor, it would look like a extreme duty steel drain pan! Man that's the heaviest flywheel I've ever worked with!
Fortunately I have not had the pleasure of replacing the clutch in my Mack yet, so I am not sure about the flywheel. My clutch experience comes from the 10 years I worked in the shop of a trucking company. We had Cat, Cummins, Detroit, International. I liked the Cummins flywheels, they were light, the 3116 and 3126 Cats were heavier. And I agree with you that you adjust the clutch at the clutch. I cannot believe guys would want to adjust the linkage rather than crawl under and adjust the pressure plate. I have ranted and raved about this for the past three years at the company I work for now. I have almost got the linkages back where they should be and adjusted the clutches like they should be.
Hey, I'm the same way. If a driver brings a truck for me to work on, the first thing I check when I get in the cab to bring in the shop is clutch free play. If there ain't none, I'm finding me a driver and start nawin' on him like he's a juicy dog bone!
I installed the bearing in the flywheel and put the flywheel on the jack and was getting ready to roll it under the truck and noticed the rear seal was leaking:Banghead, so I cleaned it off and am trying to get it out.