So I've finally got my fuel issue solved on my Hyundai R130LC3. Next I'd like to see if I could tackle the travel speed. High speed selected has no effect on track speed. My problem is, I'm not even sure where to begin. Checked fuses but didnt see a travel fuse. Where do I start.
Good day Suggest you begin with the electrics check if the solenoid valve shifts when you select high speed or you could go the other end at the travel motors see if the small hose is live when selection is made. If you need more help come back. Kind regards Uffex
Thanks. I was thinking solenoid as well. Im going to try the hydraulic end and see what happens once it cools off here. Too hot to work on it today! By the way, high speed did work when I first bought it. I dont use it enough to pin point when it stopped. It is due for a drive motor oil change so I figured I'd tackle both at the same time.
Hmm, anyone now where to look for CN-3 and CN-36. The manuals i have do not show locations. ive been hunting all over my machine
Found CN-36 Cant find CN-3, got the whole cab turn apart too
I don't know if it works for your machine but I've found that in general the lower the numbers the closer to the computer. Maybe CN3 is the connection on the computer. Are there tags on the harness connectors the tell you what number they are?
So i found all the way down to CN-4 6-8 are next to the computer. I need to find the solenoid harness, main harness. only place i havent looked is on the pump outside the cab. its hot here so i take lots of breaks Heres the manual i have http://ce.hhi.co.kr/eng/parts/sm/R130LC-3/c_exca1.htm i was working with 6-2 item 11 page 6-31
Good day Our experience with korean diagrams are not the best may I suggest locate the solenoid often these have a mechanical override use a tie rap to lodge it and try the machine. Please see attached Kind regards Uffex
Please see attached it may help you, give us a nice photo back it may help someone in the future. Kind regards Uffex
John C, thanks but that is incorrect...but it gave me a thought. Perhaps i was looking in the wrong spot. Sure enough if you go to the back of my machine, furthest away from the computer I found CN-3, so Thank you! Problem now is my manual says its an 8 pin connector and i have a 5 pin. Circuit diagram shows only 5 wires, so apparently they smartened up and used the correct connector size.
Those crafty Korean designers!
Found my solenoid. Now I just need to figure out how to test it. 1 terminal does have 24 volts. I tried changing to high speed it no change in voltage. Not sure if I should see any thing.
I’m not familiar with that machine but normally you won’t have any power at solenoid and when you select high speed travel the computer will send 24v to it. This may be opposite but I’m not sure without seeing a manual. You might try pulling the pilot line at the hydraulic motor and t in a gauge to see if you have a pressure change to shift the swash plate.
Most common thing I’ve seen is a bad solenoid. If you have a couple solenoids down where that one is you could try swapping them to see if that’s the problem
Most excavators with electronic controls, that are not PWM controlled, use the ground to actuate solenoids. Basically, all the solenoids will have 24 volts to them all the time and the computer will ground the circuit to allow amps to flow through the coil to shift a spool.
Well, decided to do a little more fiddling with this while i what for my chains to come in. Seems that I do have an electrical signal when changing from slow to fast. Slow shows ~1.6 volts, while switching to fast i get 23.8 volts. So, im leaning towards bad solenoid. Unfortunately, i dont have one of the same that i could switch over to verify.
Solenoids can be checked with an ohm meter. Failures are indicated when resistance through the child is either zero or infinite. Usually they with have anywhere from three to seven ohms of resistance through the coil. You should also check the coil housing for being shorted to either leak of the coil. A service manual is a very valid tool worth spending money on to keep your machine operational.
Good day ktm Not sure if this is relevant often folk checking out electronics check for power and overlook the ground when you check for signal use both pins at the solenoid. On occasions the coil part of the assembly can become corroded removing this part will often prove difficult in such examples. Kind regards Uffex
1.7 ohms across the 2 pins. I have a manual but it's not to thorough.
Good day ktm This may be helpful sorry if you have seen this video Testing a Valve Solenoid - YouTubewww.youtube.com › watch
Looking through my manual and as my luck would have it i found a couple specs for solenoids. Of course when i say luck i mean bad luck. There is a spec for the power max solenoid which says 15-25 ohms. Its a different valve all together and i dont have the part number with me. The travel solenoid is a Nachi SS-G01-A3Z-R-D2-20
did some more digging this weekend now that i got my pads installed. I thought i got lucky and found the wires were frayed right after the connector. Of course that meant i was seeing resistance when i was checking at the connector. I was thinking I got lucky and just need to fix the wires from shorting on each other. Nope, I pulled the coil off and sure enough, OL. I guess at least I found my problem.
So, i finally found a used solenoid, got it installed and bingo, bango, I got my 2 speed travel back. Now to fix my broken sunroof!