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Tree removal

LWG · 2011-06-15 23:25

I need to remove about a dozen mature red oak trees, about 80' tall and 18" - 24" in diameter. I have taken some down with chain saws, but I'd like to try something else. I spoke with an operator about using a dozer. He said that small to medium size dozers really don't push that well. I wonder about using a excavator. I would use the excavator to cut out the root opposite to the direction I wanted the tree to fall, and then use the bucket to push it over. Would this work?

Replies20
  1. #1Wardiker2011-06-16 00:16

    You are exactly right on the excavator procedure, I do it all the time, works great, sometimes if we dont want the hole thats created we do a 3/4 cut at the base, with the bucket just touching it so it doesnt fall back, then nudge it over in the direction we want, so you cut the backside from the direction you want it to fall. Be very carefull when pushing it over, plant the bucket high up on the tree, so if it kicks back and up it wont send you back and up, also sometimes they can break 1/2 or 3/4 up the tree, sending that on to you like a spear.

  2. #2joispoi2011-06-16 08:52

    I´d call a local saw mill before you drop them and see if they want to buy the lumber. That will effect how you want to take them down. Aside from that I agree with Wardiker.

  3. #3LWG2011-06-16 09:24

    I actually did that. The operator I talked with about the dozer suggested I call local mills. When I called, they said they would buy the logs as long as I brought them in. That's hardly worth the effort. I give them away as firewood. But it was a great thought.

  4. #4Deere John2011-06-16 18:25

    I would think the sawmill would pay you somewhere around $60 per ton for the logs. They may scale them differently, but it shouldn't be too far from that. If you have the excavator there to load them, you may be better off to log them with a chainsaw and load them out with the hoe. $3-400 cash is better than a case of beer from a buddy for some firewood. If you do go logging, keep them clean - sawmills are alergic to dirty wood.

  5. #5stumpjumper832011-06-16 21:05

    Oh, one more thing. Usually when your free falling a tree you cut your notch in the face and then make a back cut slightly above the hinge corner. When pushing trees over you want to do the oppisite. Make your backcut about 2" below your notch corner, that way you will not push the butt off the stump. This is not as critical with trackloaders and excavators, but very helpfull with dozers because they dont have the reach.

  6. #6Newinthegame2011-06-24 10:55

    I have two trees in my backyard, and I have been thinking about renting a small excavator for my back yard to not tear up the grass. They are both dead, so I don't think it will take much. What is the smallest side excavator I could use?

  7. #7sultan2011-06-24 17:19

    How big are the trees?

  8. #8OExcavating2011-07-10 01:21

    make sure dead limbs dont fall on you .we call those widow makers

  9. #9Orchard Ex2011-07-10 15:28

    Be very careful pushing trees over with an excavator. We lost a good fellow excavator doing that a few years back. The tree spun, then snapped back and crushed the cab.

  10. #10Greg2011-07-10 21:51

    are they red, white or burr oak? Around here red oak is bringing real good money. Loggers are going door to door begging for it as well as walnut.

  11. #11BigDogz2011-07-13 12:32

    Yeah just follow the excavator procedure you highlighted. That will certainly increase your efficiency and cut down manual labor. Good luck. Post some pics if you feel like it before and after.

  12. #12BigDogz2011-07-17 20:04

    Just fyi as well, I once had a similar project that I used my excavator on. The trees weren't quite the size you are dealing with here but my excavator didn't have much trouble handling the job. let us know how yours handles these bigger trees.

  13. #13LWG2011-07-17 21:32

    I was told they were red oak, but the leaves don't look right. The trees are very tall, with straight trunks and rough bark. I tried to get companies to come and take the logs, and no one was interested. If I cut the trees and trucked them to the mill, they might be interested. Otherwise, no.

  14. #14Orchard Ex2011-07-23 08:59

    Happened again. Be careful if you're gonna do this with an excavator. http://www.gazette.net/article/20110720/NEWS/707189972&template=gazette

  15. #15monkey2011-07-23 22:06

    Sad. I use my excavator also for knocking down trees. I do back dig the way the tree is leaning, then extend the boom and dipper to maximum reach with the bucket about 1/4 to 1/3 of the way up the tree then slowly inch the machine forward and make sure it is starting to fall the way I want it to. I also make sure the bucket teeth are implanted into the trunk good to help eliminate the possiblty of the tree rolling, that's why I inch the machine forward instead of using the the bucket/boom/dipper so the teeth stay stuck in the trunk. I've taking some pretty big oaks down doing it this way. Never had an "oh crap moment" yet. Using a dozer is much more dangerous in my opinion, before I got my excavator I did use my dozer and hated knocking over trees with it.

  16. #16monkey2011-07-23 22:09

    I do have a 30 ton machine though. Have taken down some upwards of 36" oaks down

  17. #17Farmhack2011-08-05 08:35

    I have dropped a couple of trees and prefer to use crowd on. Bucket to push trees over I feel if you use the track motors you could pop a pin or damage a ram end Also at that size I would pre cut with chain saw at about 10 feet push top over then dig Roots out but have the 10 ft stump for leverage

  18. #181weare2011-08-06 08:15

    Have cleared a number of lot w/ my komatsu 120. Best done w/ 2 man team. one oporator, one cut man. I have the cut man notch the tree in the direction we want it to fall. I then apply light pressure in that direction w/ buket as high as possible. The cut man makes a back cut,and when the tree starts to fall I have him clear out,while I apply pressure in direction of fall. You can drop a numbe of trees in same direction before cutting up ,to increse productivity.Hope this helps

  19. #19Marina Orlova2019-05-20 14:47

    There is a machine made by Sennebogen, called the Sennebogen 718 that may be perfect for the application you are looking for. It does take some training for the operator, but once up and running, it can take down a tree about the size you mentioned (80' tall, 18"-24" diameter) in minutes, by reaching up, cutting, holding and controlling it down to the ground. Here's a blog that talks more about how it compares to an excavator: https://blog.sennebogen-na.com/718-vs-excavator-with-attachments There is also a company called KutTech that rents its services out to other tree service providers that don't want to purchase the equipment but would like to essentially 'rent' the equipment with a seasoned operator to help them on certain projects. That could be an option too. https://kuttech.com/ Good luck!

  20. #20milon2023-12-22 19:59

    I have something like 10-15 not huge but big big (3-4 stories high) oak trees growing between my house/driveway and a road (with power line). Probably about 10-15 feet from my house and 6 feet from the road. All the branches toward the road have been cut by previous owners so all the weight is toward the house. The trees look mostly healthy but I feel a bit uneasy and I am considering removing them and replacing with trees that don't grow very tall. Given the position I am assuming a crane will be used for most if not all the trees. I haven't started shopping around but does anyone have an idea of what I would be looking for in term of price? Can I get away with $1,000 per tree or $1,500 (or more!) is more of a reasonable estimate? I can't really afford to pay something like $30,000 total so in that case I may just have someone come and check that the trees are actually healthy. Any input would be greatly appreciated!