Here is my Trojan 2000.
Nice
New brakes and service then we were on the way to the gravel pit. :usa
Looks like a very clean machine and its in great shape, has it been repainted?
No didn't have time to repaint. This machine spends its time by itself out at our pit about 20 miles from town and dosent want to impress anyone. :usa
Very nice, you and I have the exact same machine but yours is a lot cleaner than mine. My brakes suck, haven't really looked in to them yet. What did you do with yours? I understand they are air-over-hydro? Not sure how that all works yet, I found what looks like a master cylinder under a cover in the floor by the drivers left foot but it has no lid on it and no fluid in it(lots of dry rust tho)--yet the brakes work... so I'm confused. Do you know what year your machine is, or how to decode the serial number? Mine needs some work including rebuilding the lift cylinders and a leaky wheel hub... poor-but-working brakes... I just installed four brand new batteries (dealer had them on sale, score!) the day before yesterday, made up some copper bus bars for them rather than cables. When I got it, it had two poorly wired together... mismatched old truck batteries. One died and was killing the other and boosting got old in a hurry. I bought the machine for snow removal... if you have any advice for me I'd certainly appreciate it. Derek
Derek: The brakes are the reason we had it in the shop. Yes they are air over hydraulic. When I bought it the previous owner told me it never had much in the way of brakes. So they never used them. Their pit is very level but at my place we are on a hill and brakes are a necessity. So I had them repaired. Some where leaking at the seals and there were some broken lines. I still have an air leak to fix but we can use it the way it is. More later.
The Trojan 2000, mine is approx. 1968 or 1969 according to the book I have. Serial number 66-2121. I just looked thru my parts book and I think you'll find there are two master cylinders for the brakes. One for the front and one for the rear. Wow four batteries? What engine do you have? Mine has the 4-71 Detroit. Interesting you want it to push snow. Well with that big bucket it should do it pretty well. Only it is not fast. The hydraulics are the only thing that will slow you down. Depends how much snow and how far you have to push it. My road is 2.5 miles long and I have a full size Huber grader. About the size of a Cat 14. Takes me 2 hours to blade the snow off. It also has a 4-71 Detroit engine. I'm going to send a picture of the front end with the wheel off and brakes exposed if it will help you. If you need more info I have the parts book and service manual I could look something up for you.
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Thanks for the reply. I'll get some pix and the serial number tomorrow in the daylight. Mine also has the 4-71 Detroit. Four batteries because I really want to guarentee that she'll fire up in the middle of a blizzard! Also, the dealer had them on sale for $90 each so it seemed like cheap insurance... maybe I got a little carried away but that's the most that would fit in the battery compartment! I bought a brand new 14' snow pusher box for it. It's going to be used in wide open parking lots. I don't think it will be tooooo slow as we don't usually get a lot of deep snow, so its more for moving over a lot of ground. Stacking can be done later if necessary, so I don't think the slow hydro's will be a big issue either. I think my biggest concerns are the brakes freezing up. I'm going to replace the bypassed air dryer, $200 at the local truck parts supplier. It's universal, so hopefully it will work out... chase a few air leaks while I'm in there.... I also want to add a remote ether setup. Quickstart has been giving me the run around for two monthes, is there another company I should be dealing with? That picture is interesting, thanks, my right front hub is leaking a little bit and I wasn't sure what to expect in there. Is there a seal of some sort? Or just a gasket/silicone?
Ut oh ATCO isn't gonna like to read that LOL!
Uhh who? And why? I've only had the machine for two months and haven't had it apart yet, so I don't know what to expect. Since his is/was apart I figured it would be a good thing to ask beforehand...
I sent a message to ATCO. I think he will be able to help you with the mechanical questions more than I. :usa
Bah ha ha ha ha hahaha. :lmao Dang guys, had internet problems tonight, just now getting on here. LoL. Honestly, I know so little about loaders I hadn't even checked this thread yet, but I'm glad rabbit sent me a PM, looks like it could get interesting in here working on two machines. Silicone? Yes, a bit of a peave of mine. Not that I don't like it. It's just that it drives me absolutely back flips when some jack nut wrench twister DOESN'T APPLY IT PROPERLY! LMAO. Nedly, me thinks I'm going to have to post a thread in shop talk of the do's and don't with RTV silicone. Oh, 4 batteries to start a 4-71? I'm impressed! Shouln't have cranking problems now. You should be able to obtain an ether injection system from any truck parts supplier, or if you have an equipment junkyard near you, a lot of machines have an ether system, you might find one at a good price. I found this on the internet, don't know anything about them, but you might give them a look. http://www.koldban.com/?gclid=CLqX34LxhaUCFYdX2godSFLTOw Keeps us posted with the repairs guys.
Trojan Loader "That picture is interesting, thanks, my right front hub is leaking a little bit and I wasn't sure what to expect in there. Is there a seal of some sort? Or just a gasket/silicone?" There are seals and a gasket. Looking at the parts book now, if your leaking gear oil looks like your going to go farther in than I did to get to that final seal. All work done on this machine was at the local Caterpillar dealer. That was before I got it. :usa
Can't say for certain, but being a "dirt machine", it's a good be the drive hub is sealed by a floating seal where it meets the axle housing. If that's the type of seal it has, if it's leaking...only going to get worse.
Trojan 2000: Yup... they never get better, by themselves, ATCO... You might have a 'Heavy Duty Face Seal'... also known as ©Duo-Cone, and various other trade names, rabbit. If you do... you will probably need a tool, specific to that particular seal... they're not the most fun thing to install, either. Here is a Reference Manual, that might be of some help, rabbit. http://www.partsfinder.ca/parts/seals/duocone/manual/ Hope it helps, anyway.... OCR...
Yup, such as "floating seal". LoL :tong To clarify, my comment of "only going to get worse" was not to imply that other types of seals (lip seals, two piece seals) fair longer when they start to weep/leak, far from it. My comment was specifically related to floating seals (face seals, duo cone, etc.), it's in reference of the design of the seal. Once it starts to leak; it's done, finished, worn out, shot, end of its journey, beyond hope, FUBAR. Bah ha ha ha haha BTW, nice link OCR.
Thanks for the good info. You guys are great. :usa
Ugh I'll be back in a few days. Switched my crappy but reliable Dialup Internet for Rogers Wireless Highspeed and it's been nothing short of a disaster. Shipped to me with a cell phone SIM card instead of a net sim, then once I had it running it promptly burnt out the new router. Waiting ever since for a new unit to be delivered... on a borrowed dial up connection just to check my mail. Wish me luck :S
luck
Good luck man! With Rogers, you're going to need it.
Oh, great, thanks! Didn't start out well. Wrong SIM card, then a burnt out router... then waited for the replacement, days later it showed up.... opened it, and its a REFURBISHED unit (mine was brand new, four hours old!) needless to say I got on the horn and raised hell! :bash Now I have another brand new one, and it is working well. We have 15 days to decide. We also have the telephone package with them to experiment with too, since Ma Bell doesn't feel the need to fix our bad phone lines (been in bad shape since 1970)... so high hopes for it all cuz I'd love to tell Bell where to shove it! So... I'm back! At least til it burns out again... :S Besides, I doubt anything can be worse than dialup!
Back to the Trojan 2000, I DID manage to get the serial number before it got dark, the number is 66-2391. Mean anything to anyone? My manuals all talk about serial numbers 22-xxxxxx so I have no idea what they are talking about.
Hey our Trojans are sisters... 66-2121 :usa
Nice looking machine you have there.
Thanks, I like it too.. :usa
Rabbit, here are some of the pics of mine.... look kinda familiar?
Wasn't kidding about the batteries and home made bus bars...
My shiny new Buyers ScoopDogg for the front of it... 14' long. (and the first scratch I put in it....right above the ears... booooooo me)
Aaaaaaaaand my two (bigger) leaks, the cylinder and the hub. Note, if you can see it, the broken bolt hanging out of the hub... (2 o'clock position, inner ring of bolts...)
Whoa, Thats greasy. Yep they look like twins. :usa
Yeah, I bought a brand new hot water pressure washer on ebay, got it for half price because it was a display model and didn't have all its original packaging. I figure 50% off is good compromise for being missing something I was gonna chuck anyways!! I get it Monday, how dare you Americans put your thanksgiving right in the middle of the week! *** Gotta wait I guess... then I can at least clean the crud off and see what's what...
Derek, That leak looks like its coming from the planetary hub. There is a large o ring inside the cap. :usa
Here's one for ya.... four brand new batteries, solid copper bus bars and clean connections... disconnected ground cable at the bus bar (see pic, top left). 1.5 weeks go by, batteries are dead. ***? I tested all four batteries with the load tester before I put them in, all were good. Any thoughts? They are obviously still connected to each other in parallel but still.......?
Have you checked for draw between the positive cable and the batteries? Take off the positive cable and see if it sparks when you touch it to the battery post. Thats the simple way. If it does then you got to check out the system for a short. Disconnect the alternator. Then see if you still get a spark. And so on. On the other hand I have recently had bad new batteries. Or batteries that did not last 1 year. Took them back and there was no question from the supplier. Sounds like they must have had a lot of returns. Good luck :usa
Well, I know I have a drain somewhere in the tractor, but that is why the negative cable was disconnected! The batteries shouldn't be able to drain like that when disconnected from the tractor. They've been on charge overnight so I think today I'm gonna pull the positive bus bar and load test each battery individually again... The supplier told me they were made by Interstate, I remember telling him how much trouble I'd been having with Interstate batteries lately..... hmmmmm......
Gday derekbroerse, a suggestion i might have it to put an ammeter in between the batteries and the main system. HOWEVER A WARNING, DO NOT TRY AND START IT OR TURN ON ANY ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT, the high current flow will blow up your testing gear. If its an electrical leak it will show. I purchased a Century battery for a larger tractor of mine, cost 250 and was the best and largest battery i could find, now it seems its stuffed, not at all happy. There is a product out there that does help batteries i believe, supposed to reduce sulphates forming on the battery plates, how effective the chemical is uncertain. Best of luck Alex
Yep, Interstate. Thats the ones I had trouble with.. A shame too because I had always counted on them being the best. :usa
I think, like everything else, they are POS's..... FarmerAlex, I've had a tip off on that stuff before--Its magnesium sulphate or something (I'd have to check the labels again)---plain "Epsom Salt" for your wife's bath! I bought a box of it and tried it on some crappy old batteries and took some that were useless and made them...well.. less useless. They were still weak at best and didn't last long. It's the kind of dirty trick someone would do when they are selling a machine they didn't care about. I couldn't recommend it, tho others report good results. I dunno.
A new problem.... The bucket tilt valve seems to suddenly be stuck! Worked perfectly fine five days ago when I parked the machine, now it feels siezed up. Frozen maybe? I ran the machine for an hr with the heat on in the cab, also the temp got well above freezing for about two days and no improvement... not sure yet if the valve is in the cab or below attached with linkages.... I think the latter... Wish I could get it indoors! This was the last thing I needed... :Banghead
Derick: Ever get the blade on? are you plowiing snow? Rabbit, from sunny Washington state. :usa
Yes, actually I had it out for the huge snow storm earlier this week. It worked well on Wednesday but Thursday I wanted it for cleanup duty but couldn't build air pressure to release the brakes. I think the foot valve is shot, or at least in need of a rebuild...
never the lest Id kill for that thing although my 124 gasser knock on wood no problems exept It doesnt bend in the middle.
Update.... Ran the machine all winter with no brakes. Worked well but not something I'd recommend. Hired a local mobile mechanic to replace the foot valve (since it was stranded away from my shop) and his new one (its an off the shelf Bendix piece) holds pressure but keeps sticking on the torque convertor release circuit.... he was supposed to return with another replacement and hasn't shown up in a month plus. Haven't paid him a dime. If he didn't have my manuals I'd just tell him to stuff it at this point. It is a slow machine for snow pushing. Ran it in 3rd gear mostly, though when it got heavy it would really bog the machine down (but not the engine speed). Dropping to 2nd makes little to no difference, and 1st is just creeping along. Tranny temp never gets out of hand though, so I don't think its slipping excessively..? Just struck me as odd. If you over do it with too much snow it will spin the tires and stop in its tracks, yet it pushes along very very slowly. As long as I stick to 2/3 width of the pusher (and we're talking about a long push here!) it seems fine unless its wet heavy concrete-like snow. Wish I had another to compare it to. Never did get my new tires on either. My ether start system.... I ended up building from pieces sourced on ebay and a cylinder from the local truck shop. I've got about $50 in it total, so not bad at all, and it is entirely new pieces (plus 5 or 6 spare NOS valves). I ran out of time to wire it to the dash but two alligator ended test leads to the battery worked fine. LOL I installed the new brake drier system too, works well. Though in doing so I found the battery drain--absolutely nothing but the starter is tied into the key. EVERYTHING ELSE on the machine is direct, including the drier's heating element and the alternator, so no wonder it goes dead when the cables are left on. One of the four brand new batteries was bad as well, so it was hauling down the batch when it sat disconnected. Exchanged it the other day under warrenty. I'll be adding a master cut off switch to the battery cables and doing some rewiring this summer. All in all, it ran strong all winter, just wish I'd had a little more time to prepare beforehand.
How are the parts both price & avalability on these Trojan loaders ? They were built in this area & seem reasonablly priced.
i just bought an old trojan myself yours is newer i bought an old 1964 254 with a steering problem i hope to fix do have any advise on that
Most of the parts I have purchased so far are off-the-shelf semi-tractor pieces from the local trucking supplier...
I JUST PURCHESED A 2000 LOADER 1971 SERIAL NUMBER 66-2364. i AM NEW TO THE LOADER WORLD. The brakes do not work on the machine. My buddy that I bought it from said that the brake line broke. I will fix this soon , The air system for the brakes seems to be working well evacuating . I was wondering if anyone has done brakes on these they are drum brakes. I also was wondering what size tires you had on your machines? This machine has a 16x24 seems like a odd size any help would be great
Mine uses 20.5x25's
Glad to see the pics of that old loader. Reminds me of my childhood and riding on one that looked VERY similar to yours with my grandfather. Some of my happiest memories. Scared my mom and grandmother to death because his didn't have a cab.
Trojan Parts Trojan Parts Other than the frame and loader arms and misc specialty parts, every thing else was sourced from other companies. It is some times difficult to cross a part number and you may end up selecting the part by application. As mentioned earlier, many parts cross over to the Class 8 truck parts. Volvo was the rep for Trojan and I have found that their parts pricing is 50% less than other suppliers and who ever they deal with is still able to get parts. I have a 1986 Trojan 1500Z that I repowered with a Cummins 4BT 130 HP engine. I just didn't want to deal with the Deutz F5L912. If anyone wants to put it together, I have a reground crank (.10/.20), re-built injectors, seals etc, $1,500 in new parts. Make an offer. Parts fabricated; Turbo exhaust elbow, radiator brackets, motor mounts, torque converter adapter ring, tubing for intake and exhaust. Paul
Even when Trojans were still being produced it was a good idea to source any parts you could outside of the Trojan parts system! One glaring example was I believe it was for a 7500 or possibly 5000. We needed a new microswitch assembly that worked the bucket leveler on the tilt cylinder. Simple little switch with an actuator arm. Well I ordered one and a few days later in came in UPS delivery. Found that switch came with about five feet or 16-3 wire like any good extension cord would use. Then I took a look at the price on the packing slip!! $300.00?? What the..... took the Micro Switch part number off the new one and gave it to company electrician, not telling how much this one cost. A few minutes latter he told me no problem getting one, possibly from Graingers. Price for it from them? Right around $30.00, but that did not come with the five feet of wire! As I didn't really need to replace the wire harness I took the harness of the one from Trojan and installed the switch then the next day when the $30.00 switch came in I put the new harness on that one and returned it for credit to the salesman who just happened to show up that day. Never could understand why some companies feel the need to over charge for replacement parts. People often complain about Cat parts prices, while not exactly cheap they are most times no where as over priced as many of their competitors. Back when many Cats and others used a lot of Vickers Vane Pumps for hydraulics we tried buying cartridges from a Vickers Dealer, problem was they were about 10% or more in cost and not a stocked item, where Cat either had them on the shelf 1/2 hour from our shop or could have them by 8:00am next day with no charge for shipping.