My "new" 580D has a turbo prelube switch. Is there a simple way to tell if it is working? How long should the switch be held before starting?
I could not find any reference to the prelube valve in my D service manual, even under the turbocharger failure section. Was this an option offered by Case for extreme temperatures? There might be reference to it in the operators manual which I don't have. I have seen mechanical valves plumbed in for this purpose. The manufacturer might have several ways of accomplishing this. Got a pic? Phil
Cat dealer was pushing that for a while as a dealer installed option. Might be same company but I don't remember the name. The system replaced the rear end cover of the starter with a small pump . To prime the engine it turned the starter backwards then run starter normally to start. There were several relays that you could hear when you pushed the prime button and the starter would run with just an electric motor sound.
Yes Komatsu, that's a slick idea Cat had, to reduce engine wear on start-up I believe. I'm thinking this is something installed further back in time...maybe we can get more info on this mod he has.Phil
I didn't here any relays when just turning the starter switch to on and holding the prelube. Now that I've read this I'll try holding the prelube and turning starter switch all the way to start. Be pretty cool if this works. By extreme temperature you mean cold right That kinda option would make sense since the machine was delivered to Alaska!
Only "pre lube" switch I've seen on a Case backhoe or dozer was a momentary switch you held while cranking. All it did was interrupt the fuel shut off solenoid. Thus the machine would not start when the switch was held down.....suppose to allow you to build a slight oil pressure before releasing it to start. Could it be that simple a system on yours? Just a thought ......cheers :drinkup
Yep, that's how it works. Motor turns over but no start.
I don't think that switch would get used much. I wonder what initiated the request to come up with this idea and if it was cold weather related. Maybe the turbo manufacturer was having failed units return under warranty at the time. Phil
The idea behind that switch at least in CASE's world was when you changed the engine oil or changed out the turbo you hit the switch and cranked unit the machine showed oil pressure on the gauge , then you released it and let the engine start. That way you are getting oil to the turbo with out the turbo spinning and not letting it spin while dry. I have seen other manufactures say in the owners manuals to disconnect the fuel shutoff solenoid to do the same thing. Case just made it a little easier to do while in the seat, not that many people do it anyway.
Was the turbo an option on the 580D or was it standard on the 580 Super D? Could a 2wd 580D be ordered with the turbo?
It appears that the turbo was an option. This machine has the directions in the cab for oiling the turbo.
The Cats we have with this Prelube system are not exactly like what is described here. First of those that do use the starter motor to power the oil pump have special armatures with the shaft longer than standard on to which one of the pump gears are mounted. This makes for a very expensive starter, say a 50MT Delco that might go $350 exchange now will run in the $1,000 range if you can find one locally. Next the starter does not run backwards, it just has a relay that sends power to the starter motor with out activating the solenoid pull in winding's. Once oil pressure gets to about 5 psi a pressure switch activates a timer. This timer first kill power to the starter motor then after 3 seconds to give starter time to come to a complete stop the timer then activates the starter in the normal maner to crank over the engine. The newer version of this Prelube system, one of which I'm in the process of repairing this week, uses a dedicated electric motor/pump totally separate from the starter motor. otherwise it functions the same. One addition to these newer systems is they have added a quick coupler in the output line from the pump and an electric connector hooked in to the system. What this allows you to do is, disconnect the quick coupler and plug a six foot hose into it pump side of the coupler. Then with the wiring connected to the switch mounted on the hose you stick the end of hose into waste oil barrel and push a button to pump oil out of engine. No crawling in mud under machine to get to drain plug. Also included in this kit is an air gun with the other half of the coupler on it. with this connected you can blow shop air into the engine purging most of the oil out of the oil galleys and filters. No hot oil running down your arms as you take them off. The newest truck we have, just had its' first load of stone this morning, has one more trick. It is connected to the drains for engine, hydraulics and transmission. So standing in one spot and just by activating an air controlled valve with a quick blast of shop air you can use this same pump to drain all three compartments with out moving from that one spot. Of course you better have a couple empty barrels to catch all that oil! One gotcha is you have to remember to drain engine oil last. Otherwise you risk using transmission or hyd oil to prelube engine on start-up.
Yair...Once upon a time it used to be best practice to "bump" a diesel engine over on the starter and then when it was ascertained that the engine was free (i.e. no fuel, oil or water on top of a piston) it was allowed to spin up on the starter for a few seconds before introducing fuel. I find it very disconcerting with these modern key start systems that the engine starts up right away. I guess I'm showing my age. Cheers.
Cat also would not throttle up till you had oil pressure.Which was a good thing because I have seen people jerk throttle wide open as soon as the engine starts.