I am about to undertake a brake repair job on my '90 JD 310c and I was wondering if anyone out there has done this job and has some specific advice. The unit has wet brakes located inside the rear end. To do this service, the rear end needs to be opened and the seals & brake disk are replaced. The reason I'm undertaking this task is the rear disc actuators are now leaking fluid into the rear end, which I understand is a common failure on worn or overheated actuators. The seals around the edge of the actuators harden and start to leak. This is the case on my machine, first on the right about two year ago and now finally on the left. Questions: 1. Is it possible to hold the machine up using its stabilizers while doing this repair? I will need to remove the lower stabilizer link that goes under the axle, but will do only one side a time. Is the machine still stable when that link is removed or should it be blocked? 2. How often do you find corrosion in the seat for the seal of the actuator? This unit uses hydraulic fluid in the brakes, so if trace amounts of moisture enter the system the moisture could cause corrosion, prematurely wearing the seal. If you've experienced corrosion, how costly is the repair? 3. The repair manual says to check the seals with air pressure to make sure there are no leaks. How often does a reassembly cause a leak? Any other suggestions would be very much appreciated. Thanks.
Haven't done a 310C, done a few Deere Ag tractors, probably not much different. Yes, you want to support the machine with sturdy blocks, do not support with stabilizers only, they do not have holding valves and can unexpectedly release. Besides, if you have to remove the lower link, that renders the stabilizer inoperable. Something else you may consider doing; if your going to remove the axle housing to do brake repair, you might as well remove the axles to check bearing at end of axle housing and replace the axle seal. Now's as good a time as any to do it.
Good comments, thanks. These stabilizers do have locks, so they won't move if the pressure fails. Also, the stabilizer link I was referring to is one that goes from the stabilizer under the cab to the frame, parallel to the ground. Not the lower arm of the stabilizer itself. Great idea about the seal. If anyone has specific advice on this machine regarding this dual repair, information would be very much appreciated. -Peter
Hmm, didn't know that. I think I'd still have some blocks under it nevertheless. I can live with a bug squashed on my windshield...but I wouldn't want to be "the bug" underneath a loader/hoe.
Safety is so important when working around heavy equipment. Even talking about it is a good thing, just to keep one thinking about it. A long time ago my dad had to take a guy to the hospital that was crushed while working on the engine of an old crawler loader. The braces broke and the loader frame came down him. My dad had to crank the engine with the loader lever pulled back to get him out. He was working on another job nearby when he saw it come down. Guy was in the hospital for over a year and was never able to work again. Phil
Peter, sounds like you have a manual for your hoe. Where is a good source for those?
Where did you find your model and S/N? I looked on the frame, but it may be painted over. Are all JD numbers in the same place