Hello looking for advice . I was successful in getting all roller bolts out of the frame with a 1” breaker bar and a 3/4 impact. I am installing new undercarriage and want to know if I should put loctite on the bolts . I seen a post in here Nige says to torque to 340 ish . The machine is a 210 CX Case . Also what do I torque the pad bolts to . I was also going to put pads on after I get the chain on . Is this the preferred method ? i welcome any feedback Thank you
Good day Attached settings for CX210 hope it is helpful, suggest you install with clean thread bolts with Loctite can be sods to get out. Kind regards Uffex
No Loctite. If you’re thinking about the guy who has to get them out next time put anti-seize in them.
When you install the pads make sure you clean all the paint off the top surface of the chain first. Otherwise you will never keep the shoe bolts tight afterwards. Also buffing the underneath of the pads with a flap wheel wouldn't hurt.
Yeah, When I run into loctite on those undercarriage bolts it makes me want to put out a contract killing for the offender.
I kind of figured about the Loctite but then I was wondering when I was taking the sprocket off it had Loctite on the bolts. I really appreciate the comments here ,this is a wealth of information.There is too many names for me to say thank you however keep the posts coming and happy holidays to you. Stay safe sincerely J
Track roller bolts are one thing - sprocket bolts are another. Because they are usually a nut/bolt combination they are somewhat easier to get heat onto and break a Loctite bond. Not sure on your particular machine if the sprocket bolts call for Loctite. Maybe Uffex knows..?
Nige just threaded holes no nuts . Was nasty getting the old loctite out of the threaded holes and with winter conditions yesterday-30 here . My shop is too small otherwise I would be doing the work inside . So far it’s been a pretty mild winter.
You don't own a torch? 262 is blue loctite not that hard to remove without heat in fact it is basically a nylock nut. It keeps the threads from rusting. Bob
I was told to use blue loctite on roller bolts. I found some that was service insensitive and wasn't affected by a little oil on the threads. Best way to torque pad bolts is the torque turn method. Time consuming but worth the trouble. I paid a couple hundred bucks extra to have the pads installed on the track press. Below is for Cat but should give an idea. Pad torque is on pg.14, initial torque plus 1/3 turn. pegp5027-06.pdf (barloworld-equipment.com)
Good day Overlooked old file may be helpful. I have no reference as to Loctite use on the sprocket bolts neither do i have any case on file where they have come loose. Kind regards Uffex
Do not use locktite use never sieze like Nige said clean paint off of pads and links I never put locktite on sprockets either
Yes I do like blue loctite you don’t need heat to bust a bolt out . If red loctite is used properly you usually need heat to disassemble. . The sprocket bolts I took off had red loctite on them and a 3/4 air gun took them off . I like Niges suggestion of taking the paint off the chains first . Thanks to all that post happy holidays. Stay safe !
Thanks Dave . One of my old friends told me that method a while back and almost forgot until you mentioned
Thank you Uffex . I was happy that you posted the torque and specs in the earlier post that will sure come in handy . Happy holidays
Thanks Blueox
This is NOT a suggestion. Lol
Oh ok then . Sorry I don’t know the English language like you do then
By the way . This is my second undercarriage. I’ve done a D7H and now this excavater . Likely most of you guys have done hundreds . Whatever the case I enjoy all your suggestions and advice
I did a 7H about 15 years ago. Had to torch all the bottom roller bolts except for about 4 or 5. Blow through them, dig out the pieces, run a tap through. Ended up breaking at least 2 taps, burned the ever-loving **** out of my face, neck, arms, everything, didn't matter how much protection I used. Second worst job I've ever had to do on a machine.
What’s the worst?
Ended up removing trucks on a 17A long ago was a Landfill tractor, refugee from the overburden removal at a quarry shutting down. Took three days to get enough bolting to move to get them off and then the real fun began as to lower roller bolts. Some MORON had YELLOW Loctited EVERY GD Bolt on it. FOUR DAYS hacking and smoke wrenching all the bolts out, glad I am no longer in that line of work.
Replacing the flexplates between engine and torque converter on a Case 1150C that we had repowered with a 6BT. Dad would not let me pull the cab, and I'm about 6-3 and 270 lbs. Also, to make it even more miserable, be decided we would just slide the converter back on threaded rod (because it would be easier to mate it back up). To line up the flexplates to the flywheel, we cut the heads off of bolts, and ground a screwdriver slot in the end, which were removed one at a time through a starter bolt holes. Oh, did I mention the first go-around they ended up too long to rotate the engine?? FML. I know some of you have had to work in worse conditions, but our "shop" at that time was a 30 x 60 Curvet building with a dirt floor that had two 300 watt lights total, long before fancy cordless LED trouble lights became affordable. Added bonus: It was December, and it might have been about 20° in that shed. In case all of these facts so far don't seem that bad, this happened on a job where we were trenching in over 6000' of 1.5 and 2" poly water line. The pipe would be hauled out to the ditch in a stock trailer with a heater in it, then hurry up and roll it out before it stiffened up. Good times.