I recently picked up a nice 2000 International 4700 with a DT466E/Allison MT643, with what I'll call a 14' stake bed for lack of better term (see my other thread on the bed if interested). Truck is 32K GWVR, air brakes, A/C, cruise, radio, everything I wanted except an air ride seat (which may come later.) I'm beginning the process of upfitting the truck for my construction business and farm. It's primary use will be a tow vehicle with the ability to haul materials/tools/equipment on the bed. For the time being I'm leaving the bed as-is, but may modify it down the road. The 3000lb lift gate has already proved to be quite handy. First order of business is a hitch, then tie downs, front recovery points, fix the tool boxes, etc. Here's a pic of the truck when I bought it: As to the hitch, here is what I'm starting with: Plan to weld on a plate for a pinlte hitch and 2" receiver. Since it'll be a lot of out of position welding and I'm not very good at stick I think I'm going to pick up a Hobart Handler 140 wire welder (maybe a Lincoln would be better?). I realize these are pretty critical welds so I'm going to practice with it plenty before attempting to weld the plate on. I'll post up some more pics as I get it done.
You definitely need a bigger welder than a 140. Much of the welding I did on my truck was done at over 200 amps with dual shield wire. How much weight are you planning to tow with this truck?
Use some 90* brackets from frame to tail board hitch plate and bolt to frame. Hate seeing hitches welded to frames. Just MO.
Nice truck! You should find a shop that specializes in doing Heavy truck welding and fabrication, and update to LED tail lights etc. Are you running air to the back for an air brake trailer?
Alright, alright, I'm just messin' with yall on the MIG welder, I figure no thread on the matter is complete without the obligatory "Can I weld a 1" butt plate hitch on my Tri-axle with my 110v Harbor Freight flux core welder?" question. My feeble attempt at humor lol. To put everyone's mind at ease, I actually have about 25yrs experience stick welding. The butt plate was notched to sit inside the frame, edges beveled, and preheated before welding. All welding was multiple pass and done with my Miller Dialarc 250 AC/DC, set on DCEP, fresh E-7018 rods from a hermetically sealed package. So back to the hitch plate itself. It's 3/4" thick and I had a local industrial fabrication shop cut the basic shape with their CNC laser table. Saved me a lot of torch work and gave me nice clean edges for welding. I drilled the holes for the trailer plug and pintle mounting holes, everything else was cut on the CNC. Drilling the larger holes on my mill, hole saws work great if you spin them slow, plenty of cutting fluid, and relief holes to let the chips out: Hole saws are surprisingly accurate: More to come...
You will likely find the 466/Allison combo pretty anemic for towing any amount of weight unless you're always going downhill. What is the 466 set at?
I need to edit these pics down in size, I realized they are pretty large in size and MB, these should be better. Frame all cleaned up and test fitting the plate. Its a heavy devil, used the forks on the skid steer to support it while I slid it in place: Didn't take too many pics while I was welding, was pretty busy took 8lbs welding rods. Oh, and I did use a MIG welder for the tail light brackets Added this little loop at the frame to clip on the breakaway lanyard for electric brake trailers: Pintle hitch itself is going to be a 60,000lb swivel type, have the same one on another truck and really like it. This truck will probably never see half that weight. Trying to make this truck as easy to use an productive as possible so I'm designing in the features I like from other rigs I've seen or owned. Got the hitch painted, pintle mounted, and lights wired up last night but haven't got any pics yet. Need to finish the trailer plug wiring and add electric brake controller then it'll be ready to tow. Truck currently doesn't have air to the rear, I can always add it later if I get an air brake trailer. I'll post more as I get it done, thanks for everyone's replies.
Oh believe me I know, it's 190hp. I'm in no hurry and my left knee will thank me for the auto trans lol. That does bring me to a question for yall, what do I need to know to get the most out of this Allison automatic? Never owned a truck with one before, this one seems to do everything it's supposed to, but I have only driven it empty. When should it be shifted manually? Should I add an auxiliary cooler? What type of fluid does it take and what are the service intervals? Probably will have more questions once I start using it, I don't have any service literature or even an owners manual yet.
I honestly don't think I've ever seen a class 6-8 truck where the hitch wasn't welded to the frame. Why do you prefer to not weld them?
That dump truck is setup well, lots of nice features. I might steal the idea of the fold up ladder.
Looking good! I like to have a separate smaller D-ring just to connect the trailer brakeaway cable to. Amber flashing lights are also great. Not only for your protection around the truck, but so you can park anywhere. If you double park and just put on your blinkers, then your just getting people mad. Put on your amber flashers, and now your the Utility Company fixing something important and they couldn't care less.
Never shift the auto manually unless there is some sort of problem, manual shift leads to extra heat because you might be running the torque converter unlocked. They only time I change from 5 is when I'm going slow in hilly terrain so I get some engine braking, I just use truck brakes and drive appropriately so I don't have to use them too much. When you get in the electronic Allison's they engine brake like crazy. Make sure you have a trans temp guage, never go above 250 unless you plan on changing the transmission immediately after. I'd even keep it under 230-240. Make sure the shift modulator is in good shape, that one should be electric. I'm used to 750's that have separate cooler and filter ports but the busted truck I have with 653 has a small filter and a air to oil cooler on one loop, I'd definitely recommend doing something like this. With clean fluid, correct level of fluid, and not overheating the trans they are pretty happy. There is probably a max gvwr on the 653 somehow or somewhere so don't plan on putting a massive trailer behind it. I use 15w40 in my 750's but that because of stationary power applications and the heavy duty use. It should have atf in it and probably put that in there, if you have problems maybe go up to 15w40.
A properly built dump normally has a fabricated/formed drawbar. If at any time one decides to opt out of what the truck is used for and repurposed again then you get to cut it all off. When I built trucks for AG use I built a full flat crossmember that was flush with end of frame and bolted the hitch plate to that.
My Kenworth T800 uses the 5-Speed push button Allison Auto. On my international 4900 it's a manual 4-Speed Allison Auto with high/low rear axle. I shift up and down manually all the time watching the RPM's. I switch to the rear transaxle Low if going up or down something super steep (usually up or down a residential access road or driveway) when fully loaded. Otherwise it's a bit of a manual when towing heavy or loaded fully.
Pretty standard practice here for the dump bed manufacturers and upfitters to weld a pintle plate to the rear of the frame. 2024 KW county truck up for sale at JM Wood 2024 KENWORTH T880 Dump Truck - J.M. Wood Auction Company, Inc. 2024 KENWORTH T880 Dump Truck - J.M. Wood Auction Company, Inc. www.jmwood.com OX is one of the largest bed manufacturers in the Southeast.
May be there but not if I'm doing it. Lynnwood made a nice kit for pintle hitch so did Pierce.
You gentlemen can say all you want about hitches but I prefer them not to get rusty or get the paint chipped sooo 1/2 inch stainless it is
Never heard of a manual Allison except for a few examples, would like to know more
Not sure which one is mine. Truck is a 1990. I will check which model. Has a handle that is move up and down. Allison AT transmission—AT540, AT542, AT543, AT545 (4 speeds) - seen in buses I believe
The at's seem really light, lighter than the Mt and ht
The best thing you could do would be to add a temp gauge to transmission and it probably wouldn’t hurt to put an additional external cooler on as well. Heat kills the automatics.
I found some literature about the MT600 series Allisons, said they are rated for 250hp/~650lbft and a GVWR/GCWR of 73,000lbs. I’m not even close to any of those numbers so hopefully if I treat it right it will provide good service. Also the list of approved fluids was quite extensive, basically anything from ATF to hydraulic fluid depending on application and conditions. I’ll look into a good mechanical temp gauge for the trans, is there a port/bung on the transmission or pan already or do I need to modify something?
The truck I drive, (1987 IH4900) during harvest has a DT-466 and MT-643 transmission. I'm always just about 70K hauling out of fields to the elevator usually above 80 degrees ambient temperature. Never a problem over the several years I've done this. 12 to 13.5 hour days usually.
The 653 I have was on a huge spreader truck probably close to 60k and it did fine, the 307 rears were kind of a problem
I'm going out on a limb and saying that your in a flat grounded area
Yes, pretty flat here and just corn, or beans. Licensed to 64K but loading from a field they allow a 10% overage without penalty if from field to elevator or storage bins.
Here in the hills a tri axle dump legal for 73280 guys are crying if they don't have a 550. Dad always laughs at a tandem dump that the power plants had with a dt466 and a auto that every time it was used needed new transmission fluid because it would cook it. Just goes to show what is perfectly OK in on place sure isn't good for another
Driving up a hill with the converter unlocked is not a good idea. Some people need to drive a 671 powered class 8 truck in their life before they can drive anything else.
So when you say driving up hill with the converter unlocked is bad, what about when the transmission is in 1st or 2nd gear? There is no lockup on the MT643 except in 3rd and 4th I believe? Another question, is manually downshifting the transmission to hold back a load on a steep hill OK?
Slight note I'm used to ht 750s which are more heavy duty. If the converter is not locked it creates tons of heat, which is fine you just need to watch the temps. If you keep the rpms under the engine redline and the trans redline it's fine, the 750's is 2500 rpm. You will know if the converter is locked and you will get tons of engine breaking. The governor should do something if like unlocking the converter if it's going to over speed. Always just watch the temps. If you can find an old manual it will have the shift strategy in it. The 750 is pretty cool it's like u1/L1/u2/L2/L3/L4/L5 In my experience (750) the upper gears dont engine break that much when left in 5th.
Sounds like I need to get a temp gauge installed ASAP and probably a massive external trans cooler. Hitch is finished (more on that later) and did some towing testing this morning. Total GCW of about 30K, truck handled it fine but as expected really slowed down on the big hills. One particular hill that's about 2mi long and quite steep it dropped all the way down to first, kept the RPMs about 2500 in 1st till the top. Engine temp climbed to a little over 210*, engine fan fully engaged, outside air temp was only maybe 70*. For reference my F700 with a 185hp 7.8L/5+2 pulls my dozer up that hill in the high side of second, probably about the same speed but grossing 33K. Gonna take some getting used to, hope the auto trans wasn't a mistake.
You might not need a cooler, just will have to see. With autos v manuals you really have to decide with service and repair cost, which autos are always more (2x). I would guess in your service it probably doesn't matter, might be better off with an auto with all these cheese drivers now days. I really like them especially with the service I need them for (pulling wells)
When I ceased driving the old 57 Mack daily in 1999, it still had it's original 170hp "Thermodyne" engine that is non turbocharged and it did just fine for me. It's a truck with manual steering, manual windows, no air conditioning, two stick transmission, and two heaters; the second of which I installed to the left of setting column behind the dash. (alright I'm a puss there but them sonsabitches are cold on the feet in winter and don't have good defrosters). Still have the truck and when it comes back out it will be just a bit different under the sheet metal.
LOL - The 70K gross and DT 466 made me cringe. Our L10 and Allison struggles pulling our D3 on our hills.
The spare truck has an L10 and Super 10 trans. It does acceptably well also. Nobody really likes that truck citing that transmission needing an overhaul. Syncronizer in rear is very weak. Nothing is fast, nor abused, so works well. Cousin is the owner and all are family that help out. I'm the distant one but get along well.
The tare on that has to be around 22 to 23K.
I wasn't picking. We have rolling hills that our L10 and 4sp auto just doesn't do that well on pulling anything really. However it makes a great on site truck.
Ok, so mine is a MT643 also to the DT-466. When empty or light, I just put in D and go. When fully loaded I start in 1, and work my way up. When loaded, going up hills I need to use 3 & 2. I watch the RPM's and speed and just go slow. I don't have a temperature gauge. I do in my Kenworth and pick up truck, but this all about slow go and low torque, low rpms. If needed, I can put in the 2-speed low. Truck is licensed at 38,000 GVW. I don't see how its possible to pull 70,0000, he must have a different ratio. I like the truck, but it's not for the highway.
Thanks for the info, and the pic of the MT643 Operating Tips is also very useful. I'll probably be the only driver as none of my help have CDLs, mostly I work by myself anyways. As for the service costs, I figure replacing a few automatic transmissions is cheaper than replacing my knee lol. I'm only 39 but driving nothing but manual transmissions for the past 25+ yrs is starting to take a toll. I want to be proactive so I'm not all hobbled up and worn out in another 25yrs... Last question on the Auto trans for yall (at least for now), is about adding a temperature sensor. Basically this is what I'm working with, this is viewing the pan from the passenger side: On top we have a sensor of some sort and next to that the line running to either the cooler or filter (both are in the same loop, can't remeber which is first.) Then on the pan itself what appers to be both a large and small drain plug? If they are both drain plugs my plan at the moment is to drill and tap the larger one to accept a temperature probe. Should be the easiest and cleanest install, just not sure if it being only 4" from the exhaust pipe will mess with my readings. I plan to use a mechanical style gauge with a capillary tube. Thoughts? Last but not least, here are a couple pics of the finished hitch:
I couldn't say how they where driving it at the time he was a mobile maintenance welder who had a cdl and he was learning as he went. They where removing some sorta air sampling stations on top of the mountains around Johnstown about every road they where going up is a hill climb. This all taken place 10 or 15 years before I was a thought so early 80s some time
That DT-466 is worked hard but not really abused. I'm the only one that drives this truck during harvest and it only sees about 1.5K per year total. I use the floorboard as a throttle limit, but not till the top of second gear. No jackrabbit but it gets going fast enough. Been around since 1996 and the trailer shown connected was purchased new then for it and they stay together only separated for maintenance and greasing. The 5th wheel is greased weekly during harvest. Wendy drives the other truck and it's a tandem with M-11 Cummins and an automatic. We always pass each other on our shuttle runs. I do get passed a lot on the state highways traveled to elevators when full by plenty of higher horsepower trucks. Not hard to tell the grain haulers from the farmers harvesting their crops. However the combine, or chase cart never has to wait on either of use as they are still harvesting when one of us gets back unless held up at the elevator.
The current bed setup isn't going to work after all, lift gate/tailgate won't open all the way when hooked to a trailer. I need a flatbed which was my original intent for the truck. The lift gate is handy but the current bed just poses too many compromises. I've got two options 1) Cut the sides off the current bed, remove the lift gate and sell the lift gate, or 2)Remove and sell the bed complete, buy another used flat bed and rework it to fit my needs. With option 1, the tool boxes are already mounted, the bed is on the truck already, would just take a good bit of torch/grinder time. I'd then have to add stake pockets but otherwise it'd be ready to go. The big problem I see with this is the way the bedsides are made. Best case it will be a dirty, hot and miserable job, worst case it ends in a huge conflagration since the bottom of the bed sides are packed will all sorts of debris, much of it appears to be soaked in oil: Judging from the outside it looks like there is a solid weld bead between the floor sheeting and the side sheeting, If I were to cut just above this I wouldn't have to re-weld that seam: I also had the idea to buy one of those fancy new metal cutting circular saws, I think it would run along the bedside and make a clean cut. Would then have to go with a cutoff wheel on the 7" grinder to cut the posts off from the inside. Option 2 is buy another flat bed. Best option I've found thus far is an older 19' flatbed for sale locally for $800, looks to probably be from the 70's. Its in good shape, no rust, but would have to be cut down to length. The other issue is it originally had a wood floor and someone put a diamond plate floor on it, maybe 3/16 at most, and the cross members are on 24" centers. This wouldn't hold up to my uses, I'd either have to add more cross members or remove the metal and go back to a wood deck (which would be ok, aside from the work involved.) Looks like any way I go about it there is going to be a fair amount of cutting, grinding and welding. Probably would be a wash money wise between the two options, just trying to figure out what would be the least amount of time and labor and what would be the best end result. I did price new flat beds and holy mackerel, they are in the $7K range for a 14'. Why on earth are they so much? That's as much as a new good quality 20' 15K equipment trailer.
Well, I made my decision: The new metal cutting circular saw made it about 4' down one side before the blade was shot, tons of junk was stuffed down in there including broken glass. Ended up resorting to using the 7" grinder with a cut off wheel, wasn't a fun job but I got it done.
Still got some clean up and touch up work to do on the bed but it's functional for now: Lots of semi-useful trinkets that came out of the sides: Just testing to see how some of the equipment will fit:
Nice job, looks great. It’s not grinding or cutting if you didn’t burn a hole in your shirt!
Or pants leg.
So, might as well make it a dump bed.....
Turned out very nice good job
Thanks yall The thought of making it a dump bed has crossed my mind, but then again I do have three other dump trucks here. We’ll see how it works as a flatbed first and then go from there. Took and weighed the truck today, was right at 16,000lbs originally, with the sides and lift gate removed it is now at 13,500lbs. That gives me over 9 tons of cargo capacity which is excellent. On the not so good side of things the rear main seal and/or transmission input seal is leaking fairly badly when hot. I don’t have the time to deal with that right now so I dropped it off at our local heavy truck and equipment shop to have them do it. They do good work and I don’t have to mess with it.
Looks fantastic! Can we please start planning phase two, three, and four now? It's important to go crazy with the following: 1.Your Lumber rack 2. Your fuel Transfer tanks 3. Tool boxes 4. Drop down sides 5. Work lights 6. Flashing Beacon and tail lights 7. Hydraulic winches on the front bumper, and in the flat bed 8. Hydraulic Folding Equipment ramps 9/ Welded on D-rings, and specialty mounts for shovels, traffic cones, etc.
Lol, several of those are in the works... Next things to do are: - Lights, need to install the three ID lights in the bed since they came off with the lift gate -Tie downs in the bed floor, may try key hole slots -Trans temp gauge -Front tow hooks -Underbody tool boxes need new latches/keys -Mounts for shovels and long handle tools on the head board -Touch up the paint on the bed -More aggressive drive tires -Buy a set of aluminum loading ramps (may be an entire discussion on that) and make holder between the bed frame rails to store them
Regarding the loading ramps, not sure what your ideas are there. I used heavy 11' long steel ramps to get my Takeuchi TB016 (3,500 lbs or so) into the back of my F450 landscape dump truck. I now have some aluminum truck trailer ramps. They work well for my mini skidsteer (2,500lbs). I have not tried them for anything bigger. I purchased them from Discount Ramps, on sale a few years ago. 5000 lb capacity which I'm not clear on how much weight they will really hold. Nice quality, but way too expensive. I think I paid a few thousand plus shipping etc. on sale.
I believe the ramps I was looking at were from Discount Ramps as well. They were 12' long (one piece) and were rated at 12,000lbs per axle, around $2500. They'd be great for the skid steer and mini ex and I'd like to use them to load the dozer as well. At 14k I realize the dozer is heavier than the capacity of the ramps, but that is axle capacity and the dozer is spanning a much larger area so IDK. Also not sure if the tracks would tear up the aluminum ramps too much. Still have to think this one over a bit.
12' ramps can be a bit short in regard to how steep the ramps get up against the height of the flatbed (Especially when the ramps are wet), and making the transition from the ramps to the flatbed. Nice if you can tilt the dump bed up if you have a lift cylinder. I find the aluminum ramps can get a bit "bouncy" as they flex, and I would think if your dozer has steel tracks, they would destroy the ramp raised traction bars in minutes. When I bought my Kenworth T800 dump truck, I had it shipped out to me on a lowboy trailer. You can see the ramps under the deck to see how he unloaded the truck.
Well, after more than a month I finally got my truck back.... Anyone want to guess what it cost to get the rear main seal and oil pan gasket replaced?
$2500
They needed the glowing reviews you'll provide as they donated the repair to you. No idea but $2500.00 wouldn't surprise me if they had to pull the trans to address the rear main seal.
The bill they presented me with was $4300, I about fell over! Parts/fluids/shop supplies were $700 (which I thought was high but I did request all OEM parts), the rest was labor at $120/hr. I told the shop foreman this was way out of line, I could have done the job myself in half the time they were billing me for. I negotiated it down to 20hr labor making the final bill $3200. I was going to take my dump truck there to have them put a clutch in it and my dozer for new bottom rollers, both jobs I’m perfectly capable of, just didn’t really want to. Now way in hell after that. This is why I do 95% of my own repair work, I guess it needs to be 100%...
Did you tell them that you weren't sending them those two jobs as well?
No, I made no mention of that. I was upset but kept things cordial and professional, I try not to burn any bridges. The younger me would have had a blow up, but really that doesn't help anything in the long run. On a good note, I finally got to use the truck for a job today. Towed my CTL and hauled all the tools and materials to form up a slab I'm doing for a metal building. Truck worked great, was really nice to be able to take everything I need in one trip. Any way I can save time and be more productive as a one man show is very beneficial to my bottom line.
I’ve been using this truck almost exclusively for my heavier towing over the past couple months. Having 39’ of bed space on a rig I can get into most any driveway is wonderful. Today I loaded my 100 gal diesel tank and job box on the bed along with my skid steer forks, and two mini ex buckets. Two 4’ underbody boxes carry day to day tools, cones, straps, extra fluids, etc. No room to spare but skid steer and mini ex haul together on the trailer: Still have a list of things I want/need to address but at least it’s out earning its keep. Next $$$ purchase will be a new set of drive tires, the straight cut tires that came on it just aren’t going to work...
Nice setup! I wish I could do that but the dump body is a necessity for me.
How does the truck handle the weight towing?
Thanks. On some jobs I tow this setup with my F700 single axle 10’ dump if I need the dump truck on site. Not much fun trying to fish the attachments out of the bed of the dump truck with the mini ex but it works. I’ve thought about setting this IH 4700 up as a flatbed dump, we’ll see.
Nice set up! Looks like a quick and efficient mob/demob.
As good as you could expect with 190hp lol. It is slow on the big hills, one pulls me all the way down to first gear at about 10mph, but it is extremely steep, 20%+ grade. All of my jobs are within a 15-20mi radius so I’m usually not going far. Handling and braking are good, trailer tows smooth and quiet. I try to put all the tongue weight and weight on the bed that I can, especially on steep gravel roads.
Yup thats the name of the game. On fencing jobs I carry the skid steer and my fence building tractor on the trailer and the materials on the truck. I can fit up to 6 bundles of wood posts on the truck, or a couple bundles of posts + one pack (105) 6”x16’ treated fence boards.
I have a 1990 International 4900 with the same engine, and have towed my bigger equipment with it. Yup, stay away from any hills! When going up steep hills have your Co-workers get out an push. Or you could go the other way around. Get a bigger truck, and down size the equipment. Image is of my bigger truck and my smaller equipment. 0-60 fast, zips around the corners great, and Passes traffic on the hills! Cheers.
So in my search for another dump truck I found an free online vin decoder which I've been using for checking brake type, engine, etc on prospective trucks. Not very detailed, but better than nothing. Out of curiosity I put the vin for the Ih 4700 in this thread and it says it's a class 6 truck, under 26K GVWR, all other specs are correct. Title says 32K GVWR, so now I'm confused. I know the original upfitter can lower the GVW but didn't think they could raise it, without physically changing something on the truck. The yellow upfitter sticker in the door is illegible. Does anyone have access to the real IH vin decoder to see all the specs/options on this truck? Vin is 1HTSCAAL2YH265971 thanks
This is what I come up with:
Wow thank you, that's all the info I could have wanted. So it looks like it's a 25,500gvw truck after all, 8000lb front/17500lb rear. I wonder how/why Pepsi had it titled at 32K? If possible I'm going to try to re-title it at 25,500, then my help can drive it without the trailer, which would be great.
Put a new set of tires on the truck this week. I have a job coming up that's 2 1/2mi from the closest pavement and I need to haul all the lumber/materials and skid steer in. The tires that came on this truck have left me stuck more times than I can count, finally decided enough was enough. Took these highway retreads off: Put these deep lug open shoulder tires on: Not as aggressive as the tires I put on my tandem but this truck also sees a lot of highway miles, should be a good compromise. They were in stock at the local truck tire store and only $318ea.
Those that were on it were basic trailer tires, only designed to hold air and stay round. Those highway/traction treads will work fine-especially for the price.
Do they often stay round haha
If I had or ever planned on having a trailer that took that size I'd throw them on the shelf, but I don't. Some how when ever I've needed a used 11r22.5 truck tire I can't find any, yet I've had several posted on Craigslist and marketplace (at pretty cheap prices) and no one is interested. These will probably just end up going to the dump, shame because they are on good Bridgestone carcasses and have 70-80% tread.
If you have any friends at a truck tire shop you could probably get rid of them that way, they could even send them to a retread shop, Better than than paying to dispose of them
Yesterday I also took the instrument panel out and re-soldered the pins on the main connectors. I couldn't see any solder joints that were visibly broken but the gauges were cutting in and out as is common in these trucks. We'll see if that fixed anything. While I was in there I got to wondering if there are other OEM gauges I could plug in to my panel? I'd like a transmission temperature gauge. I'm fairly sure there isn't a sensor in the MT643 for that, but is there even any wiring in the harness for that? Or are the gauges it came with all that will work? I'm guessing anything related to the engine ECU would have wiring/signal, but maybe not the peripheral equipment. I might add an hour meter, I'm fairly certain that will plug in and work with that panel.
Yeah I may ask around a bit more, asked at the place I bought the new tires. They said they'd be glad to dispose of them, but wouldn't give me anything for them or even take them without paying the disposal fee.
Does anyone know the part number for the gaskets that go behind the cab clearance lights, or an entire lens assembly that comes with the gaskets? They are the flush mount 25 series I believe, I've been round and round with both the IH dealer and Fleetpride, no one can find anything. Getting water in the cab during heavy rains, going to try to replace those gaskets first.
Most I've seen resort to silicon sealer, for that reason. It's not correct but does stop leaking.
I did (hopefully) find a set of gaskets for these lights, Truck-lite #97701 is the number, had to order them online. They should be here in a couple days, I'll report back if they are indeed correct and stop the leak. If not I guess I'll go the silicon route.