I noticed one of my upper rollers was not spinning. So today I pulled it off and put on a new one (PN: 300-4610) However when I took the old one off I noticed that one of the previous owners welded on some type of support. It appears the bottom part of this is not tightening all the way. I got the new one in there but I can't tighten it because I needed to order 45MM impact socket. Is this something I need to worry about or should I tighten that bolt as best as I can? I noticed before I even took it apart the bolt was not all the way in. I'm not sure if they couldn't get it in. Or if something is broken to the point where it won't go in any further. I had a hell of a time wth a 45MM wrench with a hammer to just loosen it one turn. This was enough to strap some steel cable to the old one and pull it out with the bucket.
That bolt looks more loose than one turn. Can you get it all the way out? How tight does the new roller spindle fit the mount? I have used a thin cut-off wheel on a grinder to make clearance so it can pinch the roller tighter.
So to clarify someone previous to me must have given up on tightening this all the way. I was able to take a 45mm wrench and hammer and knock it around about one more turn. Now that I think about it was probably just a 1/2 rotatoin. I didn't have a socket this large for my impact wrench. I may have been able to get it with that, I'm not sure It comes tomorrow. It seemed loose so I decided to hook some steel line up to the old one and my bucket and I was able to pull it out using the excavator. The new one slid in like a glove. It wasn't super tight or super loose. But just from looking at whatever they welded on there, I imagine someone had some type of issue with it in the past. "I have used a thin cut-off wheel on a grinder to make clearance so it can pinch the roller tighter." When you say this I was wondering how this block of metal works. Is it just threaded on one side? Meaning, if I were to create a larger gap between the two sides of the metal I assume the screw would then pull it together tighter? I can't see any way to get any type of grinder in here. It's paper thin. Perhaps I could take my hammer drill and try to wedge it in there to crack it open some? Looking at this part and the way the tracks grab it doesn't seem like it would just fall out. The grooves in the track seem like they essentially hold this into the hole. I have a feeling the old one was being held in this way. Not from the pressure of this bolt. Just a guess.
Yes. In essence, it's a clamp. Get that bolt out of there, and slice that gap wider. Tap the threads, get a new bolt, and you'll be in business.
Is the threaded side all the way through? If so and the threads aren't the greatest you could put a longer bolt with a nut on the other side. You could even weld a nut on the back side. The mount looks home made and probably smaller than the original mount.
I'm not sure. I haven't gotten the original one out yet. I'll find out tomorrow. Great ideas though. Thanks.
I appreciate your help. One thing I'm not following is slicing the gap wider. Do you have a picture or something of the grinder you would use to do this? I was also thinking I could use a reciprocating with a metal blade?
Just an angle grinder with a cut off disc about 3/32" thick. Would be more difficult with a reciprocating saw. Just make sure to cut straight down the middle without twisting the cut off disc. The thin discs can break and send pieces flying. Wear eye protection, preferably a faceshield.
You safety nerds plug your eyes. You are going to have to take the guard off to get the reach you'll need, and probably a 7" wheel. Be careful, those wheels like to bite.
Probably have to jack or prop up the track to get enough room. Wear gloves and be very conscience of the disc if the guard has to be removed.
Think of something like this but if you are going to be working under it I would suggest to put some cribbing between the track frame and the underneath of the track once you have it jacked up to a comfortable working height.
hilux jack ?
Yup. Every well equipped mechanic’s tool box should have one.
yep, and a hd chevy scissor jack
Too bad hilux was never available in the US
Nissan Patrol uses the same jack but painted grey. Ì don't think they ever made it to the States either.
Other Toyota's used a similar jack. I bought one at an auction for $10 I think.
Yep, all 4 of my toyota pickups, from base shortbed, to 4x4 longbed, to dually c&c, used that jack.
My concern with slicing the gap wider is it appears the steel may be a low grade alloy and is arcing the two sections at the bolt where is side loading the bolt. Bore may be too large already where is unable to clamp the shaft effectively thus the back brace. Would serious consider a replacement found or constructed to replace what is there.
If the OP's intention is to sell this machine when he completes his excavation/construction project on a few acres, what about the idea of welding a "shoe" as a slider over the top of the carrier roller support for the track assembly to slide on.? I know that it would not be as efficient as a carrier roller but it's not as if the excavatoor will be doing a huge amount of travelling.
Would have to see how tight the shaft fits.
I tried to run my impact wrench on this bolt and it didn't budge. I'm just going to weld the new one from the rear to make sure it stays on. I feel like any other path I go down is going to lead to a ton of hours invested. The weld could always be grinded off in the future if it needs to be replaced
Have you tried heating the bolt and using a snipe? Using an impact doesn't mean much on its own. How much torque did you apply? You have a big expensive excavator, welding the roller from the back is about the most redneck way to fix it.
To be honest I'm not a mechanic. I've never really dealt with bolts this large. You're saying heat it up then use a snipe? I'm not even sure what this is. My impact wrench is about 1200 ft/lbs
A snipe is just a piece of pipe on a large wrench or socket to get more leverage. Just use a big enough wrench or socket drive to handle the increased torque. Maybe could rent a 1" drive breaker bar and socket and try about a 6ft. pipe. I've even pushed on a snipe with the skid steer bucket. Heat should help it come loose easier.
Got it. Thanks!
Also known as a cheater pipe
and an "extra man"
Yeah someone already did a real number on that mount before. Probably got loose once and started to chowder the bore out and they just kept tightening and deforming it. That's part of the reason the bolt is so hard to get out it's jammed sideways.