Just wondering if anyone still adjusts valves( solid lifters) with the engine idling ? I saw this done years ago and just wondering if it is a bad practice and why ?!
depends if the specified clearances are hot or cold. on some engines it can be messy doing it hot with the engine running and if you have to take a bunch of wiring or other stuff off in order to remove the valve cover/s. i don't know of any modern engines that use a hot spec but somebody correct me if i'm wrong.
Does the clearance tighten up or get looser when hot ?
It would tighten cause of the expansion due to heat.
What engines need to be adjusted while idling? I’ve never seen this
I dont think any engines need to be adjusted when running , I just remember an old mechanic doing that in the 70s on farm tractors. I guess no need to find TDC that way lol
When adjusting some valves they are so far down in the valve cover they are a pain to get the feelers in. Can’t imagine the fun to try and do it while it’s running.
Ya i know he had some angled feelers and a big cigar in his mouth lol
Hell I adjusted solid lifters idling years ago, Fords with FE Blocks and the 170 and 200 six cylinder engines. With a vacuum gauge hooked up you can watch the rise. On most of those engines it was the only way to get them quiet. I had a spring loaded screw driver with tangs on the end to keep it from slipping off.
I like adjusting small block Chevys running, you can get little clips to plug the oil holes in the rocker arms to keep the oil from splattering everything. Loosen them till they click then tighten till they get quiet plus a hair more, works good. I know some guys cut a slot in old valve covers to do the same thing, that works good too.
Old mopar slants and the high winding 340 had to adjust running. My grandfather did it, I watched him, never could quite get the hang of it. I inherited his feelers, poor things are beat to death.
I've done plenty of hydraulic lifters in Chevy's while running but never an engine with solid lifters. Until here, I hadn't heard of it being done.
That sounds like an exceptionally frustrating method to attempt on what I work on. I don’t like turning the engine over by hand any more than anybody else but this sounds rough. Not only is the oil going everywhere but the big fan is blowing hot air all in your face...no thanks.
And threatening to cut your fingers off with a moment of inattention
The old stove bolt six Chevys were like that. My old man had the tool and the skill, wrench handle to turn the lock nut, spring loaded round knurled handle with a straight screwdriver blade for the adjuster screw. Really enjoyed watching him run those valves on the neighbor's old panel about 45 years ago now, lol. He was grinning too!
It's not that big of a deal to adjust while idling. No two hydraulic lifters are the same, it's easy to end up with a tight valve doing it statically. The old Ford 352's, 390's, 406's and 427's were solid lifters. Set statically they sounded like a type writer, set them running you could barely hear them and those engines ran smoother too. Valve timing was right on. Now how many have set tappets in a Buick Straight 8 Flat Head or Flat Head V-8 Ford, those you can't run but everything is upside down.
Thats what im talking about !!! Love the stories
I was working on a 350 SBC build last winter. I had a b**** of a time getting a socket on the adjustment nut of the Comp roller rockers. Couldn't imagine trying to jam a socket on them while running. Maybe stock Chevy rocker are different? I've never actually seen OEM valvetrain on a SBC lol.
DO NOT attempt to adj, Ford Flathead with engine running.... the intake manifold has to be removed first. (V-8). Also no adjustment, solid lifter stock, adjustable available after market. I have chased some valves up/dow, engine running, slinging oil. Be fore starting job usually muttered _)(***#I$%)^%*. Got worse as job progessed
No kidding. You left out Fords early two piece valve guides.
The adjustment nut is on the stud between the valve and pushrod, it doesn't move. The rocker arm pivots on it so it is very easy.
I know. It was just next to impossible to get a socket onto that adjustment nut unless the rocker itself was in the perfect spot. I don't know if that's because of the aftermarket roller rockers but I was afraid of breaking a rocker or a pushrod from the socket impeding its free movement. I mean it certainly took a lot of effort to get a socket on there.
on the other hand, if the valve lash is a hot spec, while it is running is likely the most consistent, as opposed to the engine cooling down between the time it takes to set the first valve to setting the last valve, theoretically speaking. over the years i've done both on older engines but i prefer the cold setting and not getting burned lol and not having to clean up an oily mess afterward
Have you got the latest 238-9586 roller-bearing turning tool in your box.? They make turning engines over, especially the bigger ones, a lot easier. Not easy, just easier .........
Small block and Big block static set. TDC #1 roll, 360* TDC #6 TDC #1------------TDC #6 #1 ex--------------#3 in #1 in---------------#5ex #3 ex--------------#7ex #5 in----------------#2ex #7 in----------------#4in #2 in----------------#6ex #8 ex---------------#6in #4 ex---------------#8in
Or you can go for its big brother if you do a significant amount of work on 3500/C175 engines .......... The 285-5989 Engine Turning Tool has been released for use on the engines for large mining trucks. The tool also can be used on all 3500 Series Engines and C175 Engines. The new engine turning tool bolts to the access hole in the flywheel housing. The tool also uses double needle bearings for smooth operation. The engine turning tool has an external, 25.4 mm (1.00 inch) hex head.
I don’t have any of the turning tools but we have some of the older ones in the toolroom. I do most of my work on the small (but not compact) to midsize construction equipment side so the C4.4s to C9.3s in dozers and excavators mainly. I will have to look into that should I get into more engine work, thanks for the part number.
If there isn’t a 238-9586 in your tool room it might be a good idea to suggest that they get one. They are the mutt’s nuts when it comes to turning engines, even smaller ones.
Looks good, the baring tool I have I managed to scavenge from an engine, think it was in a 769 truck engine same basic engine as the original 988's had. Some of those engines came from factory with the tool and had a spacer that went over the gear end to keep it back from the flywheel. I grabbed this one for my use as I knew the place this truck was going was lucky if they had someone who knew how to change the oil much less adjust the valves!
I was 16 years old and my first car was a Ford with a flathead V-8. If remember correctly the valve stems had to be ground to set the clearance. I real bi### when I took too much off. I finally was able to afford a set of Johnson Lifters for it.