I have a 1988 Ford F700 single axle dump with a 7.8l New Holland diesel (185hp) and a 5 spd Eaton midrange transmission that is synchronized. It is a pull type clutch, I don’t remember if its dual or single diaphragm. The truck had a new clutch put in sometime before I bought it last fall. I have the shop manuals and everything is adjusted and lubricated correctly. The clutch pedal is very stiff to the point I dread every time I have to push it. My left knee is shot after a full day of driving it, especially if its a lot of site work, maneuvering or stop and go traffic. While I verified the clutch is “new” I don’t know the quality of it or if it was a reman. Is it possible the previous owner put the wrong clutch in? Maybe a cheap reman with the wrong pressure plate springs? Looking for possible ideas before I have to pull the tranny and buy another clutch (that may or may not fix the problem.) Thanks in advance.
To heavy (wrong) return spring? Bad bushing or heim joint? Disconnect the return spring and feel pedal effort. Reconnect spring and disconnect rod for clutch fork and feel pedal effort. Or, wrong clutch. Rotate flywheel and, through inspection hole, search for tag or stamped number(s). I had a '98 F800 5.9 with a 5+2, and I remember the effort to declutch being lower than the Solo in my '13 Pete with a 6.7 .
I am about to go through the same deal i bought a 1981 chevy pickup it pushes alot harder than my 1985. It grabs bad to i lubed the linkage and it helped some and i fixed this deal to but it steal pushes hard .
If it has a diaphragm clutch I would bet that's the issue. One question does the bell housing have all it's covers in-place? Because clutches really don't like excessive dirt, and for some reason most construction and farm trucks don't have the inspection covers installed.
Sorry, It is not a diaphragm style clutch, I used that word absentmindedly although my F600 with a 429 does have a 13" diaphragm style clutch in it and the pedal is very light, basically like my pickup. So I did some more looking and fiddling today, it is not a problem with the return spring, nor the linkage as far as I can tell. Linkage wise everything moves freely by hand and the return spring is very light. The problem seems to be in the clutch itself. It is a pull style clutch, no brake, although I'm not sure if it's single or dual disc. All covers are in place. I can not find any ID tags anywhere, there is a spot were it looks like one was riveted to the clutch itself but it is gone.
There are two types of pull type clutches, angle spring and diaphragm. https://www.mid-americaclutch.com/clutches/14-inch-pull-type-2-plate-clutches/
Not that I know a dam thing about trucks, but I am assuming this is a z-bar link? Have you checked for other locations on the clutch bar for the link to hook up? Sometime there is several places that can be used........the further down the bar increases the leverage.
Ah, I see. I will try to take a pic of it tomorrow although I don't know how much can be seen just looking at it through the access hole. That was my first hope, that I could just re-rig the linkage to provide more leverage but there is only one hole on each bell crank. The thought did cross my mind to weld on a longer length of flat bar to one of the arms of the bell crank with a hole further out, more pedal travel but less effort. I'm not to that level of desperation, yet.
It should work without modification, never been a fan of diaphragm clutches. Really IMO if it doesn't say Eaton on it I won't install it.
Better fix it before the throw out bearing pulls out of the pressure plate at a red light behind a police car.
It seems like alot of the clutches like my pickup are made so it just has enough travel to make it work. My 85 that pushes ok has to be pushed into the floor mat to use it then it also has very little free travel. I saw a 80s GM pickup in the junk yard and was told they had problems with the peddle travel and thats why it was scraped. 73 / 87 GM pickups are nown for clutch peddle problems.
Sometimes you have to go off the reservation, so to speak. If it's not working for you adjusted correctly, then adjust it incorrectly. Move the freeplay a third or a half way down the stroke and if it still disengages enough to get in reverse, leave it there, see hot that feels driving it. I'm not familiar with anything between small car clutches and ag tractors, but their is always a book way, and then the things you do when you get desperate. On tractors that is adjusting the settings inside the bell housing, to make the travel more closely approximate normal for a worn clutch. bolting on a longer lever could work better?
Hey where did you find your clutch? I haven’t had any luck finding one for a 6.6 turbo.. 13” pull type
Did you try the place on the east side of Cleveland ? IIRC E43 st & St. Clair near the Diesel school.
I’ve searched Google high and low.. no clutches available for a 1988 f700 6.6 turbo
You might-I say might try looking here. * Online Catalog - Illinois Auto Truck. ONLINE CATALOG Online Catalog Illinois Auto Truck Co., Inc. publishes a complete catalog listing the most commonly used NEW clutch assemblies & supplemental parts. Illinois Auto Truck also offers an online catalog which highlights all NEW assemblies, components and supplemental parts. The online... www.iatcoinc.com
I didn't ask you that. I asked if you tried the clutch shop in cleveland.
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