I have a vickers electric over hydralic valve it controls a set of bunching arms on a feller buncher. The bunching arms have never worked on this machine since I have owned it. I replaced the switches in the handle, they were broken. Replaced the wring harness to the control valve as it was broken. Then I replaced the power and groung to handle as it was not hooked up. Got power to the valve and a good ground but still the bunching arms dont work. I was wondering if ( with machine not running) you should here the electric solenoids on the valve clicking. And is there pressure port to check pressure, or what else could be wrong. Any help is appriciated thanks
most likely you wont hear the valve click. Do the coils become magnetic when you activate the valve?
thanks for the reply I did not know they were electro magnetic, should they be more magnetic on the back, the sides or where ever? And can this be checked with machine off or on ?
Most of those valves had a little pin in the center of the solenoid that you could push in with a small screw driver to operate the valve manually. You might check that.
Vickers Appears you have an industrial style valve (DG5S-8), as already mentioned there could be a manual override in the end of the pilot valve. Somewhere on the pilot valve or the coils themselves you should be able to discern the voltage required for the coils. These valves also have to be configured correctly inside for required pilot pressure and pilot drains. You have two test ports for your cylinder lines (A and B) on this valve. You can go to Eaton Vickers online and should be able to get documents for this valve. HTH, Tom
Thanks for the info I will try to figure it out this afternoon.
So I pushed the valve manually and nothing changed. I took the coils off and and removed the valve had oil to it so I am going to guess that the main valve is stuck? Does that sound right? Or am I barking up the wrong tree. I also never had any magnatizm on the coils either? And the valve is a DG4V-3S, looked on the vickers web site and got some info but no trouble shooting guide for this valve, I still need to check pressure but since no movement I would guess that it is not getting passed they main valve.
are you sure power is getting to the coils? Have you checked for power with a test light or multimeter?
I checked power with a multimeter and I have 24.63 volts
valve Slugging the valve(manual override)will do the same as energizing it electrically. How many lines are tied into the manifold/sub-plate the valve is mounted on? Need the model codes from both the main valve and the pilot valve-I believe you have given us some of the pilot valve model code only. Tom
There is a another set of numbers On the main valve ( a tag I did not see)and maytag you were right the main valve number is a DG5S-8-2N-MFWH530. There are five hoses on the sub plate, pressure in, pressure out, working in, working out, and a return to the tank. (pressure relief?)
more vickers Looks like you have a blocked center main valve and a detented pilot valve-at least from my old books-also shows that this valve is "externally drained" that will probably be the 5th line you mentioned-others being Pressure, Tank/return, A and B going to your cylinder. There may be markings cast into the main body that relate to P,T, A, B, X and Y. A, B and X will be on one side. P, T and Y will be on the other. I'd pull the main valve and look at the port that corresponds to the Y port and make sure it wasn't plugged. Also remove the pilot valve and take low pressure air and blow thru the P and T ports from the top of the main valve and see which ports the air comes out at the bottom. For most valves converting from internally pilot and internally drained to externally pilot and external drain is a simple process of either installing or removing a couple Allen setscrews. Anyway this was what I mentioned earlier about being properly configured. While you have it off it might behoove you pull the main spool out-be sure it goes back in the same direction. Good luck and let us know what you find, Tom
So today I took the valve of the machine and tore it down. I found the main valve was sticking in its bore. I took it out and did not find much in the bore. I took some polishing cloth and shined it and the valve up, until it moved more freely. Cleaned the whole thing and checked the coils, and put it back together. Reinstalled and it works like brand new. Maybe I am a chicken about tearing things down that I have no expierence in repairing, but I am glad all of you guys helped me figure this out. To all thanks for the help and advise, I hope to repay you guys some day.
Sunday morning Glad you got it going-the number on the main valve indicated it was a 3 position block center valve but was being used as a 2 position valve with a detent pilot valve. Is this the way that equipment functions, cylinders either completely extended or completely retracted? Tom
cool! Glad you got the problem worked out.