Anybody know a part number for these welded ball studs that locate the circle turn rams ??
I take it something pretty solid was hit. Anyone get hurt
Look up Sierra Park 730A web page. Most manuals including parts are listed. I'd guess the same parts are used on multiple models. That web page has been a great help for me. If no luck call Elvaan Equipment Solutions (formerly Jade). They have some new people and are pretty helpful.
I have the manuals but not a digital version so thanks Dave!
Nobody hurt at all, just “popped” while plowing at -15*F - it shows evidence of it having been cracked and “working” for a while.
I found there’s some aftermarket parts out there but unknown if cracked like this one was so got busy with cleaner and grinder and my hougen.
Just gotta cut the pin to proper height and cut a snap ring groove
Getting it close now. I hope this cold roll is tough enough.
I kind of doubt it would be anything special. To me it looks like graders are made with heavy thick components, nothing special except the moldboard which is 1050. If it doesn't work out you could make a pin from a hard chrome bar like a cylinder rod or even 1040 steel.
I've never seen that sheer off . It's mostly the other end that will break
I had the plate that you're working on break out around that stud on a series 4. I was able to weld it back up and its been holding since. Amazing the forces that get applied to various areas of these machines form time to time.
I was just thinking about Blue-Fox and here you are I drove past your yard a couple times last week. That was a cold son-of-a-gun on the K-Pen.
Never realized you two were near each other.
About a 5 hour winter drive from the MatSu, over Turnagain pass.
Is that where the winter warlock lives
Yeah broke that SOB stud again. One on left was OE - guessing Chromoloy because my Hot Roll piece flexed a lot more before it failed. So here we are!!
I’ve bent a crank arm on my 740. This machine is a G970 with the 990 16’ tall tall mold board and I think that since the 990 has these mounted in double shear that’s what I’m fixing to do.
It was a hard winter. Besides that, how much other stuff broke this season?
When picking a new material for the pin and welding rod, look at the charpy impact numbers.
7018-1 has better low temp. impact values than standard 7018. I think the minimum requirement for 7018-1 is 20ft./lbs. at -40*. Std. 7018 is 20ft./lbs. at -20F. Something like 8018(C3) with 1% nickel would be a good choice as well with min. 20ft./lbs. at -40*.
Thanks I was not aware of the -1 rating differently for cold weather. I have a bunch of 8018 but not sure if it’s C3 or what. Most of it is 3/32 tho.
The first go around my helper got hot rolled steel TGP pin instead of 4140 like I asked for. So it’s not a surprise to me it failed. That’s basically all we have available here.
I went ahead with some more fab time and made a double shear mount plate and 4140 pin assembly to get rid of the problem forever. Wish I got more time to fab stuff I actually enjoy the work.
Had to put hot glue on my champion circle arms. It had a crack in there that had been working for a long time, I’m guessing when city of Anchorage broke the moldboard (there’s a big weld in the middle)
…..and I had a guy tell me the articulation in my 976 started making a clunky noise about 3am in the last storm shortly before it blew a main hose right next to this mess.
Interesting, I will have to look into that, thanks Doug
Esab Atom Arc 8018 is actually 8018C3. It just says 8018 but the specs. say 8018C3. I haven't seen any 8018 that isn't 8018C3. Fabricating stuff and fixing stuff yourself can be very rewarding. It looks like you welded the mount with 6010/6011? Should be fine. If it was done with an xx18 rod it shouldn't be whipped because it can get slag inclusions. Can't tell exactly what happened with articulation cylinder. Did the mount rip off that the cylinder attaches to?
That sucks. Just did one of those a year or 2 ago.
Good to know that about the 8018. Yes I had decided to burn it on there 3 passes with 6010, I was running short on time. if it works out I will cap it with 7018 later. I’ve had really good luck with 6010 on thick material like 1” or more. Yeah these hiem joint style bearing setups are pretty fragile. Once they get a little worn they destroy the bearing / race in short order the busted pieces fall out and then there’s 1.5” of play in the joint instead of 1/8” like a worn bushing. Pretty sorry setup really.
Yes I did too. Saved that one before it got ruined like this. New pins and bearings and some little welding and shaping the hole round enough to support the race.