I have a Volvo EC 160 BLC excavator that won't crank when I turn the key. I forgot to turn off the master switch at the batteries and when I got in the cab to crank....all lights and dash lit up like normal; however, when I turned the key to start, the engine didn't turn over. I thought it may have been the batteries so I hooked up the solar power after checking them. It cranked up after 1/2 day of charging. I ran it for about 30 minutes and as soon as I parked it and shut it off, I have the same issue. One thing I noticed doesn't happen now, when I turn the master switch off and on at the batteries, I don't hear a click like normal. I have always heard a click when turning the battery power switch on but no sound now. Is there a starter relay that could be the issue? I checked the batteries and am getting 25 volts. SN: EC160V10397 MODEL: EC160BLC YEAR: 2004
Try to see if the peripheral power supply can start. The current status seems to be low voltage due to battery depletion, but you can measure 25V.
I would guess you will have a cell down in a battery, the voltage will be there but no real amperage, it will charge, hold charge for a short while and even provide power for the lesser amperage circuits.
I took the batteries by several local auto parts stores but I have yet to find one that can load test it. Everyone test "good battery" but then I ask them can you load test it for a dead cell.....gonna try again to another place ....I'm hoping that is the problem as that would be the simplest fix.
Well, it is not the batteries as I finally found a shop that could truly load test them and both batteries tested fine. Is there a starter relay somewhere that I can check or is there a way to go direct to the starter and check. Or I guess I should say, what are my next troubleshooting steps?
I would start with checking all wiring and **** off switches and really check the crimped connectors. Also while tracing wires, up I may find an inline relay.
What is battery voltage key on and key one trying to start? Have done any voltage drop tests and do you know how to measure voltage drop?
I took both batteries to an actual battery shop and they actually brought this machine out and did a load test....tested it even higher than the 1000 and 1050 CCA's and the batteries both tested fine. I have always heard a CLICK when I would turn on the master battery switch; however, when I turn that switch now, I don't get that click. When I get in the cab and turn the key on, all the bells and whistle light up and sound off. When I turn the switch further to crank, I get nothing as if there is no juice going to the starter.
I'm going to look for a relay as I always would hear a click when I turned on the master battery kill switch but now I don't get that click when turning the battery power on....
Even if the batteries are good that does not mean you have current where you need it. That will require testing on your part. If that is something you are not capable of then it may be best to call your dealer.
I can't say without some guidance exactly how to do the voltage drop. I just installed the batteries back and took a starter jumper and made the starter jump a few times. My thought process was if I turn the switch on and jump the starter, it would start....therefore eliminating the starter as the problem; however, 26 volts is at the starter ....now with the jumper I don't get any bumping now....I was at first....still not 100 percent that it is the starter.
One of many voltage drop videos. Test light but 12 volt system.
Appreciate the voltage drop videos as I learned something new!!! Will see if I can replicate same. thx
Hi, so there is a battery relay first, that is probably the thing you used to hear click, that is no longer clicking, take a look at the wiring schematic.
Appreciate that wiring schematic. I remember seeing that battery relay....I have power at the starter but I think I didn't do something correct when I hooked up my jumper. I took the starter off and taking it to get tested tomorrow and possibly rebuild as it I think this is the original starter.
I had the starter checked and rebuilt while it was off; however, here is what I have found so far. I get 25.9 volts at the starter wire from the battery; however, on the small wire at the solenoid, I only get 2.3 volts when turning the switch to start. I used to get a click each time I turn on the battery switch to energize the system but I don't get there now....does the battery relay control also control the switched power to the solenoid?
Might be a switch failure or a loose or a corroded (male& female) connector in the wire harness if it has one.
I have had the starter checked and rebuilt. I have checked switch wiring and voltage....am getting 24 volts to switch and when I turn the key, one contact shows 24 volts gping out....so switch appears to be fine unless I am missing something else there. However, in searching I found a bad solenoid and am wondering does this have anything to do with the starting. I put a jumper on the starter and turned the switch on....used jumper to turn engine over but no starting still....so must be a safety in there somewhere...makes me wonder about that corroded exploded solenoid...see pictures below. Gonna remove it today and order new one.
I have had the starter checked and rebuilt. I have checked switch wiring and voltage....am getting 24 volts to switch and when I turn the key, one contact shows 24 volts gping out....so switch appears to be fine unless I am missing something else there. However, in searching I found a bad solenoid and am wondering does this have anything to do with the starting. I put a jumper on the starter and turned the switch on....used jumper to turn engine over but no starting still....so must be a safety in there somewhere...makes me wonder about that corroded exploded solenoid...see pictures below. I removed the bad solenoid (MA31). I will pick up a new one tomorrow; however, can you tell me what that solenoid works or if it has anything to do with safety lockout on the ignition. I don't see MA31 on the schematic you sent me.
I have had the starter checked and rebuilt. I have checked switch wiring and voltage....am getting 24 volts to switch and when I turn the key, one contact shows 24 volts gping out....so switch appears to be fine unless I am missing something else there. However, in searching I found a bad solenoid and am wondering does this have anything to do with the starting. I put a jumper on the starter and turned the switch on....used jumper to turn engine over but no starting still....so must be a safety in there somewhere...makes me wonder about that corroded exploded solenoid...see pictures below. I removed the bad solenoid (MA31). I will pick up a new one tomorrow; however, can you tell me what that solenoid works or if it has anything to do with safety lockout on the ignition. I don't see MA31 on the schematic you sent me.
That's a hydraulic system solenoid, in fact it's the travel speed solenoid by the looks of it, if you want to replace just the broken coil I believe you are looking for 14527267 if the whole solenoid valve is broken you require 14526665, the first one (right hand one of the three) is a hydraulic safety lock. but nothing to do with the starting of the machine
I did miss this section that will probably help loads
Gotcha, I have found that starter relay in the wiring diagram now...RE3301. After doing more reading, that is the exact relay that is suppose to click once energized. I am going to check the connections for bad ground and/or loose or corroded connections before ordering a new one.