Got some time so trying to figure out the issue. Before when I tried the wiper or spray it would blow the fuse, but now it doesn't. I checked both the wiper and spray switch have power coming to them on the green/white wire. When the switch 3602 is on high, there's power to both blue/white and yellow/blue. For 3608 there's power to both brown/white when holding the switch. So I am assuming the switches are fine? I was next thinking of checking the wiper motor and spray motor (not sure where that is?) for power? I'm not sure exactly how many other things there is it could be?
Good day Wiring diagram attached may be helpful Kind regards Uffex
Thank you for the diagrams they help a lot. I ran power directly to wiper motor and it works, so obviously it’s something between the switch and the motor. I opened up CU3601 and everything looks good on the board, not sure how I can test this? Assuming with switch on a certain wire should be fed power? Looks like I should also check on SE3602 but not sure where that is?
Good day Attached from an earlier machine but I believe it is the same, hands up never taken a controller apart only replaced it when faulty. Kind regards Uffex
Should be a switch hiding behind the instrument panel. When the windscreen is down and locked in place closes RE11 allowing power to switches. This is to keep the operator safe from the wiper arm if the glass is not in place.
I bet that's it, over the summer I replaced the window glass so I had the whole thing out. If I understand correctly it's a switch I would need to reset?
Reset, adjusted, repositioned. There may be one for the lower glass (optional) . The thing is, the switch must be closed when the windscreen is down and locked in place.
You're right, once I made sure the window was closed, it's back to blowing the fuse like before. With only SW3602 or SW3608 plugged in and turned on it blows the fuse. But from when I tested the switches when the switch was open, doesn't that confirm the switches themselves are fine, and there must be some short after the switches?
Yes, but... The problem is not the switches but more likely the relay or wiring between relay and motor. By closing the switch you made the ground to the motor. Try unplugging the motor and replacing the fuse.
Actually when I tried I had the washer pump unplugged. I will try unplugging the wiper motor. Other then CU3601 i'm not sure where anything else is located, like the upper limit switch? Is that with CU3601 or something different? In the fuse box I didn't see any relays that were for the wipers?
CU 3601 is a non serviceable solid state relay. It is located above the battery box .there is a large plastic cover (4 bolts) behind that cover is CU3601, your 24/12 step down and something else. The diagram uffex was good enough to provide clearly shows what you are looking for.
Yes I opened up CU3601 and everything look good. I just wasn't sure how to verify if it's working properly or not? Other then unplugging the wiper motor, i'm lost as to what else to try?
Finally some progress. With wiper motor unplugged fuse no longer blows activating either switch. So does this mean it’s the motor? Or could it still be the wiring to it? I am going to run power directly to the motor now to test it.
Forget my last post the stupid window sensor wasn’t reset, at least I found where it was. But with wiper motor unplugged as well as wiper switch the spray works, so that part of the system is fine. So it means I have a short in the wiring from the switch to the wiper motor? Does it mean it’s after cu3601 or could it be before?
Started testing continuity on wires, blue yellow from switch to cu3601 good. Blue white nothing. So on a hunch that was the problem I cut it at the switch and cu3601 and ran a jumper but no change still blows. But if it’s not connected the switch no longer blows fuse. I tried the jumper from switch to wiper motor, doesn’t work but doesn’t blow fuse either. So am I right to assume it’s the white/blue wire somewhere broken? Or something in the line from the switch to motor hooked to that wire causing the issue?
All wires from cu3601 to wiper motor continuity are good. So if unplugging the motor stops fuse from blowing doesn’t that mean the motor is bad? Is there a way I can jump it with wires to test it? I checked the lower one but the plug is different so I can’t swap.
Found a good deal on a new wiper motor on ebay but really want to be sure that it's the problem. Is there anything I could be missing? If unplugging it gets rid of the problem it has to be the motor right? My only other thought is maybe the wiper provides feedback to something and a wire at some point is shorted (although all 3 are good back to cu3601) but unplugging the motor removes that so it doesn't end up shorting when switch is turned on?
As a Volvo EC210 user , are you satisfied with your vehicle?
Good day You can check the cables for ground with a multi meter - if there is a short it will show up - no short with the wiper disconnected it must be the motor. Be confident whats the worst can happen blow a fuse? Kind regards Uffex
Got some time to try and get this fixed again spent the better part of the day and no luck. I put in the new wiper motor and no change, but oddly I plugged in the old one and fuse no longer blows no matter what? Motor is getting power with key on, but nothing else with either switch activated, ground wire was also fine. The washer switch works fine. Comparing my controller to the diagram above, mine has 16 pins that one shows only 10? But some of the numbers seem to make sense with what I tested. What I found with the key on was numbers 1 and 5 have power 8 and 13 light up test light but very dim? With the switch in int 3 get power With the switch on 2 and 3 have power With the switch on int or on I can hear it clicking every once in awhile I checked continuity between the motor and controller and found something odd, but wires the blue/white and green/yellow have large resistance with nearly every pin on the controller? Blue/white for example has resistance with 3,4,7,8,10,11,12,13,14,15,16? I attached a picture of the controller, definitely a bit of black on it? Am I wrong to assume the controller is likely done and my issue?
Realized I made an error in testing with the controller plugged in. I re tested with it unplugged, on int 3 has power and on 2 and 3. So the controller is not passing on any current/signal. Only thing I don’t know is, is it because it’s not working, or is it missing power to another pin in order to work?
Called the dealer just to see what a controller would cost, $1000! So definitely not buying that unless I’m 100% sure it’s the issue. I would also imagine if it’s the problem could probably have it repaired somewhere for a lot less?
Still haven't had any luck trying to track down another diagram. I did find a used controller for sale but i'm still not 100% sure that it's the problem. Anyone have any ideas how I could test to know for sure?
Good day You may find the attached helpful, I may be able to get an animated version if you need, it only works on the Windows platform. Kind regards uffex
Thanks for the diagram it helps a ton. I’ve never been able to find the upper limit switch SE3602 any idea where it is located?
Didn't make any progress, just getting more frustrated with tracking down this stupid problem. I have searched and searched for how to read the electrical diagram and no matter what it makes no sense. If I assumed the non-colored dots mean the wire is connected, that means every single wire to the controller is connected all 16 of them which isn't possible, if I assume it means they aren't connected it means many wires just dead end which also isn't possible, if I assume that it's a ground I know that's wrong because 2 and 3 on the controller have power with the upper switch on. Can anyone clear up how you're suppose to read that diagram in that regard? Specifically the circle around CU3601 that seemingly connects every single wire of it? The one thing I am 100% sure on is the controller is not completing any circuits, doesn't matter which wiper switch I have on. I cannot find out where the upper limit switches are? What is the best place to buy a manual from? I really want to have access to all these diagrams when I need and not bother others for them.
Would this be a good manual to go with? https://volvo-pdf-manual.com/store/...vator-service-repair-manual-instant-download/
What is the issue that you are having. Is it still blowing fuses or is just not working?
Not working, it no longer blows fuse. There is fused power to wiper motor and good ground but switches don't provide it any power. Wiper sprayer motor works with switch. Controller has good fused power, and is getting power to wires 2 and 3 with switch on. What I am not sure is, is the controller missing another wire to work, or is the controller bad? At $1000 for a new one, or $300 used I don't want to guess wrong.
Did you check your limit switch? It is on the front glass on the upper right hand corner. That switch is there so that you can't operate the wipers when the glass is raised.
Yes i've made sure that is engaged and I can verify it is working because the spray motor won't work otherwise. That's called the limit switch?
If you look at the diagram that uffex provided. That limit switch is providing ground to the wiper motor pin-3. Pin-1 is fused power and pin-2 and 5 are from the controller. That controller is a relay of sorts. I believe that it is a solid state relay rather than your conventional type relay. I don't have a lot of experience on these machines but Fun with fuel does. Hopefully he come along and make better sense of this.
Yes that is limit switch se3602.
Thanks that makes sense. I was looking at it wrong, I thought that box around CU3601 was connecting them but in reality it's just the wires going into/out of the controller so that makes a lot more sense. I ran a jumper to the fused power for it but I didn't try a jumper to a ground to check that the controller is grounded. But unless i'm missing something it has power to pins 2 and 3 as it should with the switch on, other then the ground being bad the controller should be sending power to that motor through 9 and 11, unless the controller is bad?
Yes. The pin numbers I stated earlier are at the wiper motor. Pin-9 from the controller goes to pin-2 at the wiper motor. Pin-11 from the controller goes to pin-5 at the wiper motor. I am assuming those are the high and low signals. I have only been working on these volvos for 2 years and I have yet to make any sense of their schematics. I don't believe that Volvo provides a real schematic. They give you little diagrams like you see above. I personally want to see the machines wiring in all its glory rather than bits and pieces.
looking at schematic, fused power coming in at pin 1 is return to park. That's all it's for. Pulse coming from CU3601 at pin 5 controls motor. That way if you shut the wiper off in the middle of the stroke, it can finish it's cycle and return to park independent of the switch. The motor only runs at one speed, it's the pulse from CUC3601 which dictates delay or the illusion of speed. As Paul had mentioned, the ground is completed via SE3602 I believe you stated earlier that you caused the motor to run by applying voltage to pin 5, proving the motor works. So, my suggestion is, measure voltage at pins 2 & 3 while switching switch from off to delay to on. This is verifying that the switch signal is reaching CU3601. Then please measure voltage at pin 11 of CU3601. If each has voltage as the switch position changes, you're good. Remember, the CU is the timer delay. The relay is shown to illustrate how power is transferred. You have to be measuring voltage while switching or you won't catch it. It's a pulse, not an on/off switch. It just gets the motor turning. It doesn't handle the load. Hope this helps
Thanks for clearing that up. I just haven't been working on these long enough to know all of the idiosyncrasies of these machines. Plus this is a older model and I work on those even less. Most of what is in my market is new.
Thanks that clears it up a ton how it operates. Hopefully I finally got this figured out tomorrow.
Now i feel old.
Thanks Dad
I'm sure my dumb questions aren't helping
The dumb ones are the ones not asked.
Suladas I guess the guys have answered the question do you have a Microsoft Windows PC ? KR Uffex
Fun with fuel may be appropriate When I was young, my slippers were red; I could kick up my heels over my head. When I was older my slippers were blue, But still I could dance the whole night through. Now I am older, my slippers are black. I huff to the store and puff my way back. But never you laugh; I don’t mind at all: I’d rather be huffing than not puff at all! Stolen from another site Kind regards Uffex
Yes I believe I should be able to finally figure this out now. Yep I have Windows.
There is 5.3 volts at pins 3 on int, pins 2 and 3 with switch on, exact same voltage as pin 1. There is no voltage at pin 11 on Cu3601 regardless of position of switch. If I have it right this means CU3601 is receiving signal as it should but something is wrong with it as it’s not sending signal out?
Assuming i'm at the point of replacing the controller, is used a good idea? There is a place in Quebec with one for $300 from a 2008, dealer wants $1000, or any other options? Best new price I found online in Canada was $950, i'd rather pay $50 more and get from dealer less hassle and they are good to me. Or is it possibly fixable by an electronics place?
I'd go with new from a trusted dealer. I'd verify that the motor isn't shorted. I'd introduce fused power to the starting terminal of the motor as if you were the control module. Make sure the startup amperage isn't spiking. You don't want to hurt a 1000$ controller.
I bought a new motor before and I ran ground to pin 3 and fused power to pin 5 and it works (tried the old one and it didn't work), I confirmed that today but I will retest and check amperage. I figure probably a good idea to also test the wires from the controller harness to the motor harness just to make sure they aren't shorted? I think I did test them at one point but ya, I definitely don't want to fry a $1000 controller (again).
Hi there is always a risk buying used parts, if the seller is confident the part is good they should offer a limited warranty. The controller is unusual to fail as stated, before it is unlikely to be repaired. Kind regards Uffex
Finally got it fixed! Controller did it. At first when I tried it didn't work and after a few seconds clued in to check the window lockout and sure enough wiper is back! Not sure if price went down or this parts guy liked me better but it was $900, stung a lot paying that much for a tiny controller but seeing that wiper go across the window finally helped a lot. Dealer continues to impress with how quickly they get parts, I ordered in at noon on wednesday and it came from the other side of Canada by thursday at 2 for only $3.50. Thanks a ton for the help everyone.