Can anyone tell me if the Volvo ec25 was produced with different types or models of main control valves. I bought an online manual and it is not for my machine. Every other brand that I know of is serial number specific. With the Volvo all the manual’s that I have found or can find is just by the model. I have a hydraulic issue that is driving me crazy and can’t find a manual to get any real information from. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Good day Clinton What is the problem with your EC25? Kind regards Uffex
To answer your 1st question, yes there are 8 spool and 9 spool options, how different are talking? if they are massively different, are you 100% your machine is an EC25, I have seen people paint machines and put all sorts of decals on them.
This is my valve chest or as I call it
This is what my manual calls for. All 3 lines from the pump are supposed to go directly to the valve chest. My machine only 2 lines goes to the valve chest. The 3rd line goes to the block on the top left of my picture. To where the high speed engages and the safety lock out is. Sorry I don’t know the proper name for it. To test the pressures I don’t even have the option to do it as the manual says because of the different inputs.
Sence I have had the machine when tracking if you eased into the sticks it will bog the engine down significantly. If you let off sticks or fully open it picks back up and runs fine. Tracks fine at full stick but try to move slowly and it will completely stall the engine. Starting back up no problem. Now it’s doing the same thing with all functions. I am going to remove and try to check the electrical fuel pump after reading posts for seven hours last night. It only has an inline fuel filter that is how I received it 3 years ago. I can see air in the filter never noticed it before not sure if it done it or not. Hopefully it is a fuel problem and a simple fix. But as I said before even before all the hydraulics started this the tracking has never been correct for me.
This is what I was talking about the top left where the 3rd line from the hydraulic pump comes into. I think they call it a servo something.
Not 100% sure my ser number is type 281 and identification number is 28119791. I don’t know how to verify what it actually is. It’s marked as a ec25 I am new to equipment and just use for personal use. I don’t wanna bother anyone but I have called 6 people who are equipment mechanics and have cash to pay but nobody has shown up. I don’t have a bad reputation and have never cheated anyone out of money or have never defaulted on any loan or deal that I have made. Just at a loss on what to do. I’m not trying to cheap out on a manual but don’t wanna just throw money away on something I can’t use. I truly appreciate all of your guys time,patience and knowledge.
I read several hours last night of your post on this site. I don’t know you but I know for certain that you are a very honorable and caring man. As much time and information that you give to people who ask questions on here speaks volumes of your caricature. Not just trying to boast about you because I know lots of others do the same thing. I just read a bunch of your post because you seem to answer a lot of Volvo questions.
Update I checked the fuel pump and there was a small leak that was causing my loss of power. Fixed that and it put me back to the point I was before. Good power on all functions except tracking. Still boggs down and dies when trying to track slowly no problem going fast. Thanks to all of your guys great advice on other threads for pointing me to the fuel issue. Any help on the tracking issue would be greatly appreciated.
hopefully these will help confirm the plumbing is ok first, then it will be more @uffex who will be able to help to technical help
Yes thank you so much,this diagram is definitely my system unlike the manual that I have. Can you tell me where I can find the manual that this came from or where I could look at it. Again thank you so very much!!
Good day Thank you for the kind words, get back later if I can help. Question if you select low speed, is there still an engine overload? Kind regards Uffex
Yes sir low and high and both directions.
@Clinton Justice so this is Prosis Volvo's own parts system, Costs 1 arm plus 1 leg and your first born child to get a legitimate version, and probably all your money and confidential details for a version from a dodgy Chinese online place.
I understand that but,[YOU THE MAN] I sure appreciate the 2 you shared it helps more than you know.
Good day Clinton If I may suggest you may be exploring the wrong solution,the tracks as a general rule demand maximum power from the engine, this shows up any deficiency the motor has. I point out that the overload only occurs when you use the crawlers. If this issue was of a hydraulic nature, overload would occur when you use the equipment. The tracks/crawlers demand less start up power if you select low speed, that is why I ask you to test. Hydraulics consist of moving parts, wear occurs reducing power demand not increasing. I suggesti giving the engine a though going through to begin with, a point worth keeping in mind the same engine hydraulic system is used on the larger version. Only a small increase in revolutions increases the power. If you would like the engine checks to make I can make those for you. Kind regards Uffex
Yes sir I will do whatever you suggest. I can hear a very slight reduction of power from the engine when I use the hydraulics. Not a stall in any way. This being my first excavator I always assumed this was normal. I have manually checked the RPM at idle and full power. I learned from the fuel issue that I had that this doesn’t mean anything when asking hydraulic power. What do you suggest I do? Thank You Very Much!!
This is the type of fuel filter that is on the engine that is what it came with. Again after seeing how intraducing a tiny bit o air into the system caused major problems. Is it likely that this could be the problem. I’m attaching a photo of a filter like I’m using hopefully I do this correctly. I will do or try anything that you tell me. I await your suggestions Thank You
Good day Clinton One of the measures to resolve your issue would involve replacing the fuel filter. In addition to:- Drain the tank > remove clean both tank & suction connection > check the fuel line if in doubt replace as restriction inside can reduce fuel flow. I will put some more checks together and post these to you. Kind regards Uffex
I ordered a new filter assembly I will start checking and ordering fuel lines. Draining the tank is not hard on this machine. Do you suggest I remove the tank and clean it someway. I will drain the fuel and inspect it as there is easy access. Thank You for your help!
Good day Clinton Removing as you suggest may not be a necessity, be sure its good and clean. Kind regards Uffex
I replaced the fuel sending device after I bought the machine because the fuel hand didn’t work properly by it did activate with power. After changing the sending element nothing changed. Any suggestions on what I can check on this while I have it removed. The gage reads WAY over full but doesn’t drop as fuel gets lower. Just not accurate.
But it did activate, reads way over full still but does drop as level gets lower. Just not in the actual range of the gauge reading. Sorry last post had typos
Good day Clinton That's strange, did you get the original part? it should read resistance smoothly up and down as you move the float. See attached. Kind regards Uffex
Yes OEM part I had checked the gage to see if it powered up and it did so I thought it was just a faulty level indicator. The gage itself might be faulty but it’s built into the console that shows all warnings and hour meter is one complete unit.
Good day If you fully stroke the sensor while its out of the tank key on, do you get a correct reading? KR Uffex
Good day See attached It is going to be bit by bit as I can fit it in.I cannot find any reference to the fuel filter you posted. Kind regards Uffex
Good day Clinton I believe I have already posted this to you but when I checked it was missing. kind regards Uffex
Thank You
No it’s incorrect which using by hand also. Seems to be off by about 3/4 of the gage readings. The hand on gage goes past the stop on the gage. Tried using a different ground source but it wouldn’t work unless ground to itself. Do you know if the gage can be removed and repaired or replaced from the console cluster? I have been working on the fuel system all week during my downtime. Changed the fuel filter assembly ran new fuel line from tank completely to injection pump. When I pulled the sending unit out I couldn’t believe how nasty the pickup filter was. It was completely covered in sludge and what looked like lint. I drained the tank and completely vacuumed everything out of it. Got it cleaned and sending unit replaced late last night. Hopefully will get it fired up today. Thank you so much for the advice on checking this. I don’t know how it was running. I may not fix my tracking problem but it probably saved the engine. Thanks again!!!
Good day Clinton If I understand your post correctly, when you connect a meter across the sensor terminals and manually move the float up & down, the reading is smooth and consistent. When you connect this to the gauge and move the float, the gauge is bottoming out before you actually have a full movement. it may be a feature of the Volvo fuel level. Kind regards Uffex
I’m sorry to keep bothering you. Do you know how to get movement for the muffler. The muffler is mounted about 2 inches from the engine and is connected to a solid bracket connected to the frame. Of course the engine moves and the muffler doesn’t. I have replaced it twice before realizing that there has to be some kind of flex for the muffler so it doesn’t keep breaking the welds. Volvo wants $600 just for the muffler and another 300 for the tail pipe. I’m not sure if the bracket assembly for the muffler has been modified or not. Just can’t seem to get enough movement for the muffler. Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank You
I would have assumed there should be some form of flex coupling somewhere, but according to the parts drawing there isn't, is the mounting bracket for the muffler on slots or larger holes? may be it shouldn't be tight
Good day My information is much the same solid connection between Muffler and manifold, I cannot find any difference with the Mitsubishi information. If I intended keeping the machine long term I would be inclined to get one of those stainless fabricators to make one. Kind regards Uffex