Ec460cl Vcec460ck00110207 I rebuilt the motor, got it running great but it sends up a engine error code and shuts itself down in a few sec, the code is for engine speed sensor but it has the tach reading, the display showed no fuel pressure, no rail pressure and the oil pressure reads 58 running or not. So I found some similar threads on hear and so I checked the 5 volt and ground at the fuel pressure sensor. It's there but I have ground on two wires and 5 volt on one wire, if I unplug the connectors at the ECU the ground goes away, so I'm wondering should I have ground on the signal wire, or is my computer maby bad. Any help would be great!!
Firstly did you shim the cam sensor and crank sensors to the correct amount? secondly the fuel pressure should be pin 1 5v pin eb17 on ecu pin 2 signal pin eb16 on ecu pin 3 ground pin eb18 on ecu. do you have continuity between pin 2 and 3 when disconnected from the ecu could be the wires are rubbed through and touching or something.
Yes there shimed, I checked pin 16 and 18 no continuity
Down in front of the computer just to the side there are two sensors, thy look like oil pressure. Can you tell me which is which thanks. I switched those two connectors and I seem to see oil pressure on the display. Still no fuel pressure or fuel rail pressure
the two next to the engine ecu are :- top one, engine oil pressure bottom one, crankcase pressure they aren't the same part number so will read differently.
Thanks a lot that helps
First off what is the actual code for the speed sensor? It does matter as the engine will run off the cam sensor but not the crank sensor alone. The other codes for fuel/oil pressure/level and such will not keep the engine from running, they are only warnings. You need to check the continuity of the circuits to the cam and crank sensors and check voltage at the ECU when cranking and or running. This will tell you if the ECU is receiving a signal from each sensor. The better way is to do a cam crank signal test using an oscilloscope. There is a specific pattern and voltage you should be seeing. I would recommend becoming friends with your dealer and asking if you can have some of the schematics and description measuring information for your model and issues.
The engine speed code is se2703-02 The engine runs without shouting off now, I had the green pre- heat wire hooked up wrong. It throws the speed code right away. Sounds good at idle, runs rough at higher rpm
Your error code comes back as bad cam/crank correlation. In other words, you're a tooth off. It's easy to do, since you're putting a mark in a window vs lining up two dots. I'm sorry but the cam needs to be reset, which means this time around, you're going to want to replace all those screws. Not worth the risk of having them stretch and loosen. Good luck.
Wow, the dealer came out a few weeks ago, 120 min drive, looked at it for 1 hour and charged 1600$ but at that time he said the two sensors needed programed to each other. Said he didn't bring what he needed to do it then. At that time it was not running because two fuel lines were crossed
You can verify before tearing everything apart. Just line up your crank marking in the window. When I was doing a lot of these, I just ground a point onto an all thread screw so that I had absolute certainty that #1 & 6 were at TDC 0°. Remember that if you go past 1, back way up to take another run at it, or go all the way around so you're not stacking up gear lash. Sorry you had a bad experience with your dealer tech.
Okay thanks a lot I'll check it out in a few days
Okay I have another question, when I got it low-boyed to me it would swing free, now that it runs it hardly has any swing and when you let go the stick it free swings to a stop, is there a break that thy could have unhooked or something. The two swing motors had most the bolts out and in the cab, but it don't look like any lines were off or anything .
So they unbolted the motors from the gearboxes? There should be friction disc brakes within the motors. Aside from that, the swing motors use hydrodynamic braking. In other words it becomes hydrostatically locked, and uses anti-cavitation valves to bring travel to a slow stop vs a sudden stop.
Yes thy had like four bolts in each rest were in the cab
So the physical friction brake only comes in when sitting still, it keeps it from free spinning. The rest of the braking is done hydrostatically.
See attached pn 22 32 are steels and friction. PN 41, 42 & 43 are piston and seals , 44 are the apply springs. The brake is mechanically applied, hydraulically released.
The camera could not get straight on, it don't look to us like it's off, on the swing motors, the machine was bone dry of hydraulic fluid, I wonder if it's still got air in the lines. I didn't move it much at all.
I'm going to have to double check on the service literature, but I believe you're supposed to be within the 2 marks. One of them us barely visible.
That weak line next to the casting number. That should be your window to place your hash mark within.
Had to verify, here's how the cap should look. Good luck
Okay thanks so much for the help, you believe we are a tooth off correct?
Hate to say it, but yeah.
Like @funwithfuel said you likely have it a tooth off or you have the gear sets that drive the cam way out of adjustment. Which if the case will cause you much grief down the road. If you did not disassemble the gear sets then you should be able to jump the cam one tooth. The best way to check it is with an oscilloscope.
Okay we will see if we can get it moved a notch
Did you by chance have the gears that drive the camshaft off or apart at the back of the engine? If so you need to run through the adjustment procedure or you could have a catastrophic failure in your future.
I don't think so but I'll check with my mechanic
So you were right, we put it in the middle of the window and it's fixed, also the swing was not working because someone pulled both motors and dropped the gears back in on the side and put the motors back in. Got that fixed too!