last week, I got a report that our 110 wouldn't start. I got in, realigned the ignition keeper, tightened the nut and it started right up. The same thing happened the next day, I fixed it the same way. It happened again and haven't been able to get it up and running. It wouldn't start, wouldn't crank and the key felt like it wasn't turning all the way. All my lights are up, the electrical system is charged and fine. It felt like maybe the tumblers in the ignition were worn down so I got a new one. No change. Got a new starter. No change. Does anyone have any experience or ideas with this?
Delayed crank relay. I no longer have access to schematics. You'd want to trace back to relay mounted, I believe in a slot just forward of rear wiper motor. Remove back panel for access. Do your operators understand the importance of waiting for the boot sequence to finish? Another thing you want to do is verify neutral. Simply look at the instrument panel after it boots up. Position in bottom center should show N . Don't trust the gear selectors position.
Is crossing the starter allowed
Frowned on. Voltage spikes without diode suppression could result in hurt ecu's
L60G last month, same thing, wound up being one bad battery.
Very true. I assume too often that all the basics have been checked.
You might check for voltage drop in the cables. From battery to starter.
Hello, have a L60F loader. As soon as I turn the ignition on it says “starter too hot try again in 5 minutes” even though it hasn’t turned over that day. Any ideas?
Wondering what kind of safety protection device is on your unit. Are all battery connections and cables good as Komatsukid stated above. Maybe the safety system thinks the alternator is still on and turning. Must be a faulty relay or diode or wire ground out somewhere. Can your local dealer get you a start schematic that you could post. Simon C
Please start a new thread vs hijacking an existing or zombie thread. In the meantime, see attached