I have had my eye on this W900 for years, and may have the oportunity to purchase, as the owner and I have been circleing wether he wants too sell it and if I want to buy it for a few years and may be getting closer to me having room and him sick of looking at it. The details are 81 W900, has a 6v92TTA with no oil pan on it, and parts taken off, engine painted white interestingly. This truck I am going to guess has been sitting here since the 80's, has 300k on the odometer. Has torsion bar suspension, and Dayton wheels. The cab and frame are super clean. Now I have been shopping for an early peterbilt and went to visit Cortland Truck Works before Covid, However any Peterbilt fan, I am guessing respects a Kenworth, and vice versa. Any old pete is going to be thousands of miles away and get a premium price. This truck is 3 miles away and potentialy cheep money. Thoughts?
Are you restoring, using, plans for it? Do you want to keep it Detroit? Keep it dayton's, and stay torsion suspension? If you're wanting to change to pilot hub and air ride and a little quieter and maybe more HP engine, you really are buying a frame and cab/hood. Which is fine- you have to start somewhere. Do you really want a Peterbilt, or do you just want a old truck? To me, if you really want a peterbilt, get a peterbilt. You may only rebuild one once, so do what you want. Not whats close. The peterbilts aren't rare in unrestored condition by me. Sure you see rebuilt ones on the internet and they are wanting restored condition prices, but if you just want a base truck, they aren't that hard to find. None of them are in perfect condition, but if you're restoring it all anyways, it doesn't matter if the bones are there. The old KW looks pretty nice, but like anything, you can pour a lot of $$$ into it if you want all NOS parts and perfect when you get done. I don't know what kind of budget you have in mind, but it usually takes twice the $$ and twice the time of what you think in the beginning.
All good questions, I would not repair that 6v92 I drove one once in a GMC general, I would entertain an 8V92, but looking into a replacement 2 stroke discovered I could buy a whole series 60 takeout, for the same price. I would want the truck to pull a low bed or stretch the frame for a dump body, I have a current use for a dump truck and would want to put a 15ft body and a lift axle under it, not sure how fesable it is to replace the 12k front with an 18k, I have swapped axles in other trucks but would the frame be strong enough. Yes I have been kicking around an Iron nose or needle nose pete for 20 years, Trucks I have found have been high priced or far away.
The Torque Tailored Aftercooled 92’s were actually good engines with decent for the era low end torque. With the governor gutted of the Belleville washers, they’ll make big power up high.
That 81 has no real place for a CAC. The Stainless for that grille---big money-buy two to make one.
if that was an ext hood would make it worth a lot more thought
wonder if shelby elliot is still selling trucks
You can still buy the A model extended hood {Jones} makes it, Move the cab mounts back to accommodate a extended hood. Redo the clutch linkage and steering slip shaft plus shifter. And you have a extended hood. I even thought about buying the good used 900's that are left and turning them into extended model. I think Shelby is f@rting a real dry dust by now.
IMO that's a $1500 to $2000 truck as it sits. There's potential there for sure.
There's potential if it was given to me and a check for $135,000 to rebuild it.
Crane Operator asked about Budget earlier, and I hadn't given it a ton of thought, was caught up in the saving an old A model. But now I can start honing in on the budget, Less than $135,000, Your B Model is a beautiful truck and I aspire to be as talented, but reality is I do not have that type of money for this project. But tuning it up and throwing an extended hood on it could make it worth something to someone, and make me a buck on it. I agree with the value, $1500-$2000, The title may be a sticking point. Truck Shop mentioned earlier in another post putting the parts and pieces on a modern chassis, and that may be the better plan, then you would have all the mounts and hangers you needed. Do the front frame horns on early trucks match the newer trucks, say mid 90's to 2000's?
Not quite the same on front mounts, 135 is for a perfect one with labor.
I'm thinking I'll have about $50k-$60k cdn into mine by the time its done. Its a hobby so I'm not counting labour.
Still less than a new truck, and probably Waaay more reliable!
Shelby Elliot is still selling big sleeper trucks in sikeston I pass their lot every day
Am seeing Much more severe corrosion than I am finding on my 2005 on that cab, that equates to removing all the Huck fasteners at every joint to be cleaned resealed and re fastened. Torsion ride when just off new was NOT that great, the expense as noted by TS will be above $100k to perform this little endeavor. I have close to fifteen in the '05 already, still lack brakes, tires, air ride and a repaint among other items undetermined as Not Running yet. Still need to purchase $4k turbo Kit, set of reman injectors $2300 and engine fluids that will be short life disposable.
a dealer here on the north end of town has an ext. hood a mdl 81 I think he`s asking 39.500 for. decent looking from the street
This one right here---------1981 Last of the Mohicans! Straight as a pin with eight bag air ride. One-------Owner. Has a mechanical N14 he installed, his big problem is no CAC. But it could be done. It was living 65 miles due north in the middle of no where, didn't see it last summer where I normally would. The owner was up in years and might have past away. And if that happened the buzzards probably started circling, fairly normal on a rig like that one.
The cab on my '80 W900 is like that. I've got it gutted to a shell right now. Firewall is rusted really bad in a few spots. I'll hopefully be tearing into rebuilding the entire cab this spring.
That is a thing of beauty!
So what I think I have learned here is that a $2000 Hood from jones is worth more than 2k installed on the right truck.
Not Necessarily!!
Almost made it to trade the 79K100C I owned to a W900 in 81, ALMOST but just short of that goal line. We were looking at a 3406 Cat 13 spd, tandem Rockwells on 8 bag Air ride Aero sleeper but the numbers would not work and soon enough Both Trucks GONE.
Only worth saving if you want to You ask if its worth it and mention making a buck Heck no its not worth it id offer 500 if he had a way to push it on the trailer
My concern is what happens when other states start to follow California's lead and start kicking old trucks out of the state...
Do not see that happening here in MO. Most of the state instate trucking is done with Old machines.
A lot of common sense in the mid west. Unfortunatly as California goes, Massachusetts is soon to follow. Then the massholes invade the granite state and corrupt them too.
Trucks will be CNG powered. But the railroad system needs to be revamped and more moved by rail instead of trucks. Trucks for rail terminal to stores and businesses. Trucks maximum distance one way of 350 miles. There are too many semi's on the road and the roads, bridges can't take it. And the I want it now attitude will have to take a back seat.
Lots of money going into railroads now. Stocks are real hot. Mass just announced $90,000.00 grant to buy an electric semi tractor.
I couldn't have said it better myself. Just went to Lowes Friday night, because the Flatlanders/Massholes will be there tommorow.
Are twin sticks a plus or a minus in a working classic truck? And can they take the horse power of some of the modern engines? I drive like I am the guy that has to change the transmission if it blows, saying that I don't race out of a traffic light, shifting with the jake cracking to race to the next light, I try to imagine a cup of coffee on the hood that I am trying not to spill.
Not much point in a main/auxiliary these days. Not cost effective and more weight and more maintenance.
If a truck had a 5+4 would you leave it or put in an 18 speed.
Later 13 unless going to work it heavy haul
Sweet
Still have a soft spot(likely in my head) for the old Kelowna Cabs Diamonds in the Rough Diamond long noses.
One day I'll have this back together
I think that truck is a worthwhile candidate since it is torsion bar suspension. I would put a Cat 1673 to the 5x4 trans. The truck looks like an old Tate Bros. paving of Hudson N.H. 92u3406 you have a worthy looking project it is like a blank canvas lot of possibitities!
Just needs a head and pump rebuilt: Already chopped it down to a single screw. Ditched the rubber block/44 SSHD 5.29 rears for a single Rockwell w/locker 3.73 ratio on Airliner. Transmission is about 95% rebuilt, just needs the plumbing and a new tower. 15 speed OD. Need to fix the cab firewall. Steel is rotted in a couple spots. Probably going to re-rivet the entire cab since most of the aluminum hucks have corroded away. Its a Canadian cab so its all steel minus the aluminum doors and back wall and the fiberglass roof/cowl.
So after 10 years of owner and I dancing around this kenworth he called and said the salvage guys are coming for some other stuff If I want the truck he will sell it but has to know right now. And I said yes. Also said yes to an Autocar AT64 with a b model cat 13spd and 46 hendrickson rears.
Funny, I have been saying that for 20+ years. Finally sold it all. Fire insurance co had something to say about it too, they don't like seeing treasures around.
I bet you were kinda relieved after it was all gone…
Oh yes, I can look at a nice clean yard and not worry about a thing.
Less is more. My place-A house, fence, two trees-that's it.
I need to take that advice and clean house (yard and garage). I have a bad habit of seeing value in anything. I've got way to much 'stuff' just hanging out in the yard and growing weeds, or collecting dust in my garage.
This week I sold a dump truck, an excavator, 2 jeeps, a car trailer, a 20ton tag trailer cleaning up around the shop, when I got the call they were being scraped, it was caught in a moment of weekness.
So I found a running 8v92 to replace the junk 6v92 in the Kenworth, Its not a C15 Cat but it is 3k and not 15k
What all is involved with the 6v to 8v92 swap?
First off is engine mounts reconfigure for length, just at 8” difference. Many builders set up alternate mount bolting positions but that will have to be looked into.
I'm thinking about my Twin Steer C500, the Jimmy has left the building
jakes are not real strong.
If I was repowering from a 6v92, I would prefer a 3406b, big cam cummins, or a 60 series detroit (if you don't mind wiring and have room for air to air). I wouldn't want to go to all the work of repowering to swap from 6v92 to 8v92, if you are planning on driving it. If its just going to be a toy, I don't think it matters.
It's probably just going to be a toy
Well if it's going to be a toy-Contact MTU division of Detroit Diesel and install a Series 60 MTU 850 HP or a 12V71 full electronic at 1200 hp. Go big or stay home they say.
Adelmans in Ohio has a 16V92TT for sale, stationary engine, definitely would need the long hood.
I saw this video years ago on 6v92 to 8v92 swap, copperhead marine has some interesting material, assume he must be on HEF from time to time. This is another favorite, so smooth, this video makes we want that 8v92
What did you say? I can't hear you.
Hallback Ernie Cook had a Silver 92 sitting around when I was by there a year ago or so, I don't know anything about it, just sayin...
I am guessing the A model cab would be worth more with a 3406E Cat, a long hood, and the 46 quad lock rears sitting in the yard.
A restored A model long hood depending on what's under the hood and rails is running as high as $165,000.
Detroits are fine in Flatland country, so long as do not feed them great amounts of weight. Get them in the Hill and mountains lands they lay down A LOT. 92 series jakes sucked, made a lot of noise did very little. If HAVE to go driptroit then stick with simple engine avoid all the high cost little yield add ons. If were me I would avoid the two strokers for ALL the reasons have been delivered so far. 3408, 3406, C series even BC series Cummins outlasted and out powered. Nothing says POWER like a Dry sleeve MaxiDyne Mechanical Bulldog on a Triplex.
It would be way easier to just be B model that is air to water cooled. Or a big cam III. And they in "real life" won't be short of power. Then you don't have to deal with any electric, or air to air. A good 3406 at 425 or big cam III at 400 will be fine with torque and gears, and be not much different at reasonable weights and speeds. Under 65mph and under 110,000.
I drove a tanker once in a while in Colorado with a 6v92 in a GMC General, not in the hills, you wouldn't pull out of the entrance of the shop if a car was on the horizon, if you smelled a hill take a gear. The Autocar has a 3406B Cat but was hoping not to tear that apart. I have a collection of parts from Western Star that will fit the AT64 Autocar. I will keep my eye out for a Cat B model, something will come up.
It is hard to tell from the pictures, but the truck is actually in good shape, no driver wear and tear, origional seats are in good shape. It has been off the road since the mid 80s I would guess. Maybe a good candidate to take the cab off and put on a newer chassis with an updated drivetrain.
That is a good idea, I see it being done a lot around here. It doesn't really matter all that much what brand of truck donates the frame and running gear either.
Until a problem with vin#.
That is true, if you put it together and have the vin#s from both units and know what was what it is ok, Lord help the next guy
We did something similar to an old Ford my grandpa bought from a rollover. After some serious inspection by a local shop, the frame, engine, trans, etc were deemed straight and good to continue. We basically swapped hood and cab from newer truck to replace crushed cab, and prepped it for a dump body. Then sent it off to an outfitter that built and installed a forage box with scissor hoist. Once truck was completed, my grandpa called Michigan State Police who then came out, inspected vehicle and titles (chassis and cab titles), and issued a new VIN number for the 'new' truck. This was late 90s, right around 2000. The MSP issues a new VIN and some paperwork, SOS took both titles and MSP paperwork and created a new title for the truck. We ran it another 17 years until rust jacking destroyed the frame and it wasn't deemed worth repairing. Swapped the box and hoist to a newer truck and life goes on.
One has to remember the old engines were governed at 2100 and cruised at 1850 to 1900. A set of 4.11's and or 3.90 work well with a 2100 motor. 3.70-3.55 work well with the late low rpm engines. As far as jakes are concerned-those don't go to work until 2100 on any engine. A V71 or V92 didn't have much jake power until they hit 2200 to 2300, but even then it wasn't great. My next engine rebuild-7FB Cat.
I figured I would pull the torsion bar suspension and rears out, sell them, someone was looking for a set of torsion bar rears last year for a Kenworth. Then Weld the Rockwell 46-160 airliner cutoff to lengthen the truck. Is the 7FB a significant prefix for Caterpillar?
B model non air to air but can be used with air to air.
425?
With correct pistons and pump calibration/nozzels/turbo.