Hello all I have just purchased another Cat D7 17A She has not been running for 10 - 13 years but ran very well by all accounts Owners just lost interest in it She has foot rot but all else is in tact and I just want to get it started so I can get her home for parts A part from cleaning out the starting engine carburetor checking fluids clean out diesel filter and lines etc (bit of water in trany etc but will do till I get it home) what else should I be looking at before I try to start her Any help always useful Thanks all
Well if it has a carburetor if that gas engine gets running and the diesel turn there is a good chance it will fire. Only thing for safety reasons might be to have a way to block off the air intake if something sticks in the governor and it tries to run away. Guess if it has the pony engine you could kill it with compression release so there is that option. I'd be tempted to have a camera set up to record the first start in all those years and post it here!
Good point there the de compression feels a bit sticky so will check all of that out before we try to turn her I will post a link to view when we try to get it running - could be a week or 2
I'd be glade to give you a hand but checked and next available flight from Syracuse, NY to Taupo doesn't leave till September 10th, if you can wait the round trip ticket is only $2,766 US.I could give you an address to have it mailed to!
Cleaning the points on the magneto , mine needs it done after an extended period parked . There is a little X on the mag and one in the slot where the mag sits need to be matched on replacing the mag . If its wrong when you return it the plug leads can be swaped over , careful with that bit as the last guy to have the mag off may have done that and its funny trying to get the motor going if its been done .
Reckon if you got there all you'd do is lounge in the thermal pools, drink beer and chase Wahine's, not necessarily in the order.
Maybe two out of the three but I really think the Wahine's would probably out run this old guy. Now if I could find a two or three wheel vehicle to take a ride on that might be fun, looks like some nice riding on that island!
Smart man would wait til January
Be glad to help out with the flights but you have a 2 week stay in quarantine now days so hope to have her home by then Plenty of beer and Wahine's though but you really shouldnt be calling them them 2 or 3 wheel vehicles!!
Well too bad you weren't doing this project in 2016. About this time of the year back then I was in Apia for a night! A bit of a swim but to help work on a D7 might be worth the work!
i've been to NZ a couple times. are you on the north island or south?
Be sure to roll the engine over before starting. If need be you can remove the timing plate/cover and pointer and pry bar the flywheel teeth.
Central north island
i prefer the north island to the south but anywhere in NZ is a great place to be!
LOOKS LIKE YOU HAVE A GRAND PROJECT. IM ASSUMING IT HAS THE PONY MOTOR AND IS DIRECT DRIVE WITH THE CABLE POWER UNIT? YES, LIKE YOU SAID, GET PONY MOTOR RUNNING OF COURSE( MAYBE CONVERT TO 24 VOLT ELECTRIC START LATER). CHECK AND CLEAN FUEL SYSTEM BY DRAINING ALL OLD FUEL. BLOW OUT FUEL LINES. CHANGE ALL FUEL FILTERS, CHANGE OUT THAT OLD OIL FILTER TOO. CHECK YOUR TURBOCHARGER TO ENSURE IT IS FREE AND WILL SPIN WITH NO EXCESSIVE UP AND DOWN IN AND OUT SHAFT MOVEMENT. PRIME THE FUEL SYSTEM ALL THE WAY UP TO THE INJECTOR NOZZLES. BEFORE STARTING ( IM ASSUMING YOU HAVE ALREADY ROLLED ENGINE AT LEAST 3 COMPLETE REVOLUTIONS TO ENSURE NO FLUID IS IN CYLINDERS) CHECK ALL YOUR CONTROLS. ENSURE THE STEERING CLUTCH, TRANSMISSION CLUTCH, STEERING BRAKES, TRANSMISSION DIRECTION CONTROL, TRANSMISSION SPEED CONTROL, BLADE AND IF EQUIPPED ROOT PLOW CONTROL, COMPRESSION RELEASE, DECELERATOR AND THROTTLE LEVER CONTROL LINKAGES ARE ALL OPERABLE. GO AHEAD AND SOAK ALL THE LINKAGE PIVOTS WITH A GOOD PENETRATING OIL AND AFTER THAT A GOOD LITHIUM SPRAY GREASE YOU WILL HAVE TO REMOVE THE FLOOR PLATES. IM SAYING ALL THIS IS FOR #1 SAFETY. YOU DONT DONT WANT A RUN AWAY MACHINE WITH FROZEN CONTROLS. WHEN STARTING IT. AFTER ASSURING ALL FLUIDS ARE ARE ACCEPTABLE ENOUGH TO GET HER HOME BE SURE TO FOG THE ENGINE WITH WD40 TO LUBRICATE UPPER CYLINDERS AND VALVES. I WOULD TRY TO AVOID ETHER IF POSSIBLE. IF YOU CAN FOG IT GOOD ENOUGH WITH WD40 IT WILL START POPPING OFF BUT BE SURE TO HAVE ANOTHER PERSON AT THE CONTROLS AND HAVE THE INTAKE OPEN AT THE TURBO SO YOU CAN SMOTHER IT WITH A BOARD TO SHUT IT DOWN IF THE GOVERNOR IS STUCK, DONT NEED A GRENADE. ONCE IT IS RUNNING SET THROTTLE AT ABOUT MID HIGH IDLE AND LET IT BLOW OUT ALL THE COB WEBS. THEN BRING HER DOWN TO IDLE AND OBSERVE OIL AND FUEL PRESSURES. WATCH THE TEMP TO ASSURE PROPER COOLANT REGULATOR OPERATION. VISUALLY INSPECT FAN AND BELTS AND LOOK AROUND ENGINE AND UNDER MACHINE FOR AND LEAKS. ONCE YOU FEEL CONFIDENT YOU CAN KEEP TRANSMISSION IN NEUTRAL AND ENGAGE THE TRANSMISSION CLUTCH. YOU SHOULD FEEL A WALL WHEN PULLING THE LEVER BACK AND WITH MORE EFFORT FEEL IT SNAP IN AND YOU WILL HEAR THE TRANSMISSION GEAR TRAIN SPINNING. KICK IT BACK OUT AND PUSH IT FORWARD TO SEE IF THE TRANS BRAKE IS OPERATING( WHICH SHOULD BE INSPECTED AND GREASED PRIOR TO STARTING) YOU WILL NOTICE A RATHER RAPID STOP OF TRANSMISSION GEAR TRAIN IT IT IS WORKING. CHECK YOUR BRAKES, STEP ON THEM TO ENSURE THEY ARE OPERATING AND THAT THE HYDRAULIC BOOST IS WORKING. SAME FOR THE TRANSMISSION CLUTCH IT HAS A HYDRAULIC ASSIST TOO. BRING HER DOWN TO AN IDLE AND PUT TRANS IN LOW IN YOUR PREFERRED DIRECTION AND EASE INTO THE CLUTCH TO SEE IF SHE MOVES. IF ALL IS GOOD LOAD THE OL GIRL AND TAKE HER TO HER NEW HOME. I DID FORGET TO CHECK OR PUMP UP THE TRACK TENSIONERS BUT THEYRE PROBABLY GOOD IF NOT YOU WILL SEE A PILE OF GREASE AROUND THE PISTONS AFTER YOU MOVE IT INDICATING THAT IT NEEDS PISTONS AND OR SEALS. I FORGOT YOU CAN SPIN THE HECK OUT OF IT WITH THAT PONY MOTOR WITH THE COMPRESSION RELEASE ENGAGED TO SEE OIL PRESSURE.
Just spent the afternoon tinkering with her D7 17A 6685 although it has a newer back end on it Been changing oils and so on the manifolds are pretty stuffed and very poor feet but think I shall have it moving in a day or 2 There is no oil in the clutch compartment which is my only concern at this stage Still had the crank hooked up so gave both engines a spin with the compression out and she turns very nicely Governor and everything else seems to be free and in good working order which is surprising for the conditiom of her I will try to put a photo up for you all Cheers
Weren't the 17A series set up with a Fuel Oil fed torque converter?
17A's are all oil clutch, standard sliding gear transmission.
Thanks, OM
it probably dripped out over time. the clutch housing gasket is like jigsaw puzzle pieces and pretty iffy on a 100% seal. just add some nd30 and let her rock.
Got it to fire once cleaned the points Thanks god it has the electric starter on the pony engine Had to bring the carburetor home to get all the cobwebs and muck out so will try again in a couple of days time Fairly confident we will have it running next time to bring it home to start dismantling for parts for my got one
The old 7 has had some real TLC applied, nice work. hope the 'Planter Box' comes out as nicely.
Looks like you need to get that second one going for the other operator!
Hello again Im having trouble drawing petrol through the carburetor I have taken it apart and cleaned it all and blown the port out and it all seems to be fine but just wont draw from the float compartment to the barrel for some reason I have just made a new gasket for it so that may solve the problem but do any of you good folk have any clues on the matter? Plenty of spark and it will fire if you tip a bit of fuel into the air intake end
Blocked fuel line , rust in the tank now in the main jet . I put a plastic inline filter on mine . Its been parked years and more than likly need the petrol tank taken off and rinsed out .
Cheers but I have got a clean line on and heaps of fuel getting to the carb jets are to stiff to take out but have had the air gun on them to blow out but still no gas getting through
Jets sit over drillings where may get air thru one way but when try to draw gas whatever is behind blocks up again Is also a potential have a vacuum leak where does not have venturi effect to draw from bowl
Does that other D7 have the pony motor? If so might be something to think about to save the hassles getting this one to work if only wanting to get it moved closer to home. Or any chance you can cobble up a carb off something else to run the pony long enough to fire up the diesel? Might need a second set of hands to work the throttle.
Both good thoughts thanks team Yeah have stripped my carb off to take with me next time dont like doing it because it runs so well but hey at least i know it works!
That carb might have passages that are accessed by drilling out lead plugs. The smaller ones have a passage that can be cleaned with a small drill twisted by hand. The hole can be closed with a .117 pellet or a blob of solder.
If the bowl vent is plugged it wont draw fuel. The bowl has to vent to atmosphere to maintain even pressure. If it's plugged, or if you covered the vent with the gasket you made could be the problem...
yes-Sled Dog!
Also if valve guides get bad enough it won't draw fuel, I use to rebuild those pony motors and guides can get real loose. The old Ford flat head 8N tractors had two piece valve guides, and the stems would wear real bad. You knew those were bad when the only way it would run was with the choke partially closed.
Heres something that caught me with a pony motor on a D311 power unit i was in the process of purchasing. My self and seller went to flash it up, simple task for a pair of seasoned old iron collectors. had the bright idea of an electric motor on a crude base hooked the side of the unit and a belt to the pull cord fly wheel,worked great but... We cranked that sucker for a couple of hrs. ,messed with carb ,stuck a different new mag on it ,nothing.My extremly patient wife waiting in the truck reading her book while we scratched our expert heads. ( By this time Shes now wondering why id buy some P.O.S. like this) We persevered ,finally noticing we were turning it backwards . turned the electric motor the other and it flashed right up. Us two experts look at each ??? Damm did we just do that. Just throwing this up there if your trying alternate methods to start a pony ,besides the crank or pull cord which are idiot proof. The darn things usually fire up up pretty good as long as they have the necessities of life for a pony ,spark, fuel , air and compression
Thanks for all of your help team will go round tomorrow armed with a bit more knowledge cleaned out and hopefully working carb as well as a spare one will video the event for you all I am thinking there could be a few spiders etc catching the bus out of the smoke stack tomorrow
Truck Shop, I never knew or heard that before, but as soon as I read it I could picture it ! Like a lot of other things, the air will pull through the path of least resistance. If it's easier to pull past the guides than thru the carb and air cleaner, it sure will do it, and instantly you got a lean mixture. Thank you for teaching this old dog a new trick! I still love learning...
Those pony motors don't run all that much but like anything else it was also last to see any service, plus on real old ones the oil years ago wasn't all that good.
on any of my pup engines, i always add some kind of oil additive like STP or KLEEN-FLO to the crankcase to help prevent wear while they are not running. during long operating periods, that little engine is just sitting there quietly vibrating from the big engine with only a residual oil film that gradually gets shook down. also, after i shut down the main engine, i start the pup engine to splash some oil back up on the cylinder walls etc. so that the cyl walls are not as dry on the next cold start-up. i prefer to think that i get better life out of the pup engine, but that's just my opinion
Great news team shes awake and well Blowing water out of the transfer pipe and shes a bit sticky in places but not to bad considering... I will post vids up once I have sorted them all out Blew a bit of shrapnel out the pipe but is running very well
Deleted comment. Should have read the whole thread first. Redundant.
Shut the gas off to the pony and let it kill the pony instead of the using the switch after the main starts and you wont have flooding problems.
Heres the link everyone The video is in a few parts but you should find it all Look up LMNOB on you tube if you have trouble finding it Sorry about some of the filming on the start up was hard to hold her in gear etc and film all at once Had to rush her a bit as I had a bad petrol leak and I didnt want the pony to die other wise I would have liked to let her turn over for a few more minutes
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjMjLbnxNbrAhVbIbcAHYEhAeQQtwIwBHoECAkQAQ&url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lOQDahhCiHI&usg=AOvVaw0BtgJvzRvYG8xbEMRoZBF4 Part 2