Brand me frontier brush hog wrecked in 1hr repaired in 4
Looks good! What did they hit? Ed
Not sure I'm hoping to get the Paul Harvey version eventually 3 different stories from the same guy .I think a little to much speed and not paying attention. Now I just need to stop at JD and get a spray can of paint.
They want to be carefull, some of those Deere mowers don't have a good reputation for long gearbox life. Ed
This one is only meant to be used a couple times a year to keep little used Rds open on the property.this is reason for the cheap frontier by JD. We have a big JD batwing for mowing some larger areas but I have to fix the tractor first it us having fuel issues . Junk is plugging something up I just need time to go thru it.
I feel your pain Walker. It's been a recurring tail wheel removal issue on my brush hog. I've heard more excuses than Carter has pills.
Oops the A40D broke Broken output shaft . Pulled diff to clean out the bits and found the wheel lock shift yoke was also shattered for who knows how long.
They got the brush hog again JNB same spot not as bad this time . need an old farm boy to run our support equipment someone that is used to having to fix there own @#$ ups. :Banghead
I find that interesting about the gearbox. I don't know anything about deck mowers except my Dad has one he bought used like 25 years ago and I've seen that thing spit more rocks, sticks, brush, dirt, you name it, he keeps a spare set of blades and welds on layers of bead before sharpening. It is made by Gearmore for what it's worth. It has been very impressive all these years what it puts up with.
new stuff is not made like the older stuff at all gearboxes are so so depending on brand and this thing has a super thin deck on it nothing like the brush hog i used to run that was made in the early 70's , I used to cut laying logs in half with it and hit a few rocks with it and it would barely leave a dent in it .
this bugger went back together good . I ended up with 2 handfulls of shift yoke peices for the wheel lock . I will give volvo kudos for building a tough rearend gear. looks like everypeice was in the gear set at one time and only found 2 very small chips on the unloaded back edge of the pinion gear closest to the power divider side . so far so good been running around for a week so far .
C18 broke 3 hrs after egr cooler replacement. Cat guy said same thing happened to one not long ago only that one ran 30 minutes and puked same way this one did.
What happened exactly to the C18??
cat will have engine out tommorrow then we can see up her cylinder .#4 rod broke right above the big end looks like the crankshaft webbings are all broke free from the block also as the crank is pretty close to the big hole , this happened at an idle , unsure of exact cause i may never know the truth of it as this is all warranty. will post more tommorrow when i know more
sorry I never replied so apparently after multiple egr coolers failing and having a little bit of coolant getting into cylinders what cat is determining is rods are getting tweaked a little bit , on an engine that didnt disintergrate as bad as mine they found all the pistons coming up to different hights and almost immeasurable bend on the connecting rods , my engine went thru 7 egr coolers before it blew . new engine has blown 2 of the old ones now they have been redesigned and have a new supplier new mounting bracket i already blew one of those up also so far this one is good , knock on wood . i only have one problem left on this machine and that is it never shows a soot load and only regens on hrs since it was new , i need to query some other sites with 836k to see if theres do that too we have about 40 of them trhought the company . last big problem i had that seems to be fixxed now is the ard head contstantly plugging fuel injector , after they replaced the flexible fuel lines to it problem has stayed away we thing the inside of the flexible portion was falling apart and getting into injector . some ard heads only lasted 3 days and the best we were getting was 3 weeks out of one
Checking for hydrolock has become a standard for me when I encounter a egr cooler failure. Two complete engine rotations by hand usually let's you know which way to proceed.
i have the feeling when this machines extended warranty is up it is going to be replaced , knock on wood if this new style egr cooler holds up and they get the last regen issue sorted it may end up being a good machine , the head was removed 3 times on the original engine. this has become such a problem if the operator calls me up and says the coolant left the sight glass he keeps it running till i get out there to see if it is a hose or something else , if i dont see a hose leaking i pop the easy to get to heater hose off the engine have him shut it down and dump the coolant in the landfill then call cat up and say guess what , thankfully these phone calls have almost stopped
How long have we had a profile page for , is it like fb for HEF ?
Looks to be a mess where you are!! C18 did not need much help to grenade.
that one let lose at a dead idle i can only imagine what it would have done at full song pushing a bladefull of garbage across the landfill
not a work doing but i have spent the last 3 nites reading a post on here about a certain d6c that lost oil pressure , omg is all i can say as i finally got thru the whole post ... I am in aw at the whole post the people triing to help are awsome i would have quit responding in a couple days after all the repeat questions .. .. on a further note my 836K blew up another egr cooler cat has been working on it for 3 days not sure what he is doing as i have a project in the shop going on now that i have an extra set of hands but im pretty sure he pulled the injectors to get the coolant off the pistons , I would not be surprised if we blow up another engine while its still under its extended warranty , and i would not be surprised if it does that this machine is going to go away , i have a couple theories on the issue one of them is the 1000 degree dpf inlet temp why the F is this thing running that hot that is the temp of the exhuast as it enters the dpf so likely a little hotter still at the manifold which is where the egr gets fed from ,, that to me seems a bit high incase anyone is wondering that is the temp just sitting there idling after it is pulled out of the trash idling for like 30 minutes or so while cat is doing tests and checks on things so its had plenty of time for internals to cool down from working hard , second problem it still has is it never regens due to a soot load percentage in fact it never shows a soot level even though it is enabled and all turned on all ecm have been updated every sensor on the emissions ssytem were recently changed .it does regen but only based on the time limit.. cat would save a ton of money if they just brought us out a new one put our wheels on it and melted this pos down to make more parts . our 2 year old D8T has more hours on it then this 836K has i think it is near 4 years old
Ah yes the lovely D6 thread. Cost us an excellent member..... I HATE all the new crap on these motors. I had a 2009 Pete with a Cat. Had the stupid ARD head on it. Why if the F would you cobble something up on a diesel that uses a spark plug? Good grief
i agree but on a side note our d8t has given us zero problems we just got it back from the shop it was undercarriage time , it also has just over 5000 hrs on it and was flashing its emission system needs service message , dpf got changed out def filters changed , while that mess was off the top of the engine i told them to run the overhead and injector adjustment while it was able to be done , i was leary about changing the ard head untill they sent me pictures of the carbon build up and the erosion that had occured between the igniter and the tang that the spark jumps too, knock on wood it does another 5000 hrs flawlessly. especially now that it is out of warranty
project I started a month ago at least .took 2 days to remove the water truck stuff and wash truck and tear it down and order parts , new help started so I got busy on it again , an extra set of hands is a huge help .
last picture is a crappy picture of the box im putting on it going to take some pictures today if i remember
this chassis is a 2001 I think F650 my service truck is a 2005 F750 , if anyone can aquire me parts pictures and part numbers for all the hood parts hardware ,brackets ,mudguards and rubber mud guards both of these fords need various bits as a bunch of stuff is missing im just not quite sure what all is missing , my in state dealer sucks and I dont know of any truck salvage yards in the area , closest large city im near is Charlotte nc
If doing the brakes I would seriously order boots, pistons and seals then go thru the calipers.
to late they are already reinstalled and bled out , i would have considered it if it was a truck that went anywere , it has 22k miles on it , boots were a ok no leaks yet bleed them with engine running after i got bulk of the air out , also this truck is not licenced it doesnt and wont leave the site .this is the first time encountering dayton calipers on a truck for me i saw there were rebuildable but if i have a problem with one i will likeley order a reman they are cheap enough , i rebuilt a set of calipers on my old mercedes car once unless its for me i will pass on doing that ever again lol
Phelps Trucks in Wilmington is great, and there is another one not quite so good just a couple miles south of them, but I forget the name. Stone used truck parts in Florence SC is good, but a little pricey, I usually use the Wilmington ones for anything big.
I'm gaining ground on it gonna set the body on after lunch and get it back in the shop
Project cheap lube truck \ repurpose truck is gaining speed slowly. Have a few more important things to do so we will just work on it here and there as time permits
Lunched another c-18 in the ole 836k they think a piston broke this time . No exciting holes to see this time , another egr cooler failure that makes 3 coolers on this engine in less then 1000 hrs i think . I would have to look in the file for hrs at last engine change.... Edit it bent #4 rod . Piston tdc measurement is not rite , apparently cat has made a tool to measure this thru the injector bore .
Fun little project this afternoon . Got a bunch of practice in with the dual shield and think I finally figured out how to weld up vertical with it . Vertical up has always been a problem for me anyways with any process. So what you are looking at is an old tore up open cab 416b I have nicknamed leaker . Front load garbage truck fork welded to heavy angle welded to side of bucket , had to move it to that side cuz they finally broke the side of the bucket almost off on the other side .they use this for breaking up some of the trash in the d8's tracks so they can clean them at end of day easier . Now the new guy needs to learn jd controls so he quits bending them and snapping them off . I get a limited number of them to use off of junk trucks
Haven't got back to my mini lube truck yet so no new pictures on that , I had to get some work done on the morbark so I made myself a hyd puller tool kit for the hammer rods . Some square tubing , a cheap hydraforce 30 ton hollow ram from Amazon , my big truck tie rod socket for the start to receive the rod initially , and a speed nut I made from an old Jack handle ( 3\8 drive junk socket welded on one end and a 3\4 - 10 nut on the other end ) and a questionable grade of 3\4 all thread . Pulled a rod in 20 minutes solo I think I can do it in 15 once my helped is done washing roads .beats the heck out of killing myself with the slide hammer in first photo .
When the hammer rod shows up in the hole the pull is complete and rod can be removed the last little bit by hand. Threw this all together yesterday afternoon and perfected it by quiting time .
Morbark hammers all fixxed up and weighed , brought 10 copies of my pattern home to work out where im going to place them , apparently i have done this enough now and it clicked in my head only took one try ,now to do it takes 2 people though and my helper keeps filling in for sick people
well they ripped both side of the bucket off so im starting fresh with an attachment of my own invention using part of the bucket as a base .
2 am monday morning im 2 job applications in and be waiting on 2 phone calls for another place with 2 different locations , when i go i will be leaving a mess of unfinished work but im triing real hard to not let it bug me as they are the reason its unfinished .
almost forgot i finished my custom track pick \ cleaning attachment next guy to break it is running the grinder and the welder ,i will run the preheat torch.
Tommorrow nite will be one week done of my 2 week notice . And boy what a day today ended up being . i have never burned a bridge on a proper notice but the bosses are being more dumb then usual , rest of my tools coming home monday . Last week im just gonna do whatever i want maybe i will go operate the wood grinder and experiment with it a little .Started on what will probably be my last major project forgot to take pictures cuz i got called out of the shop . Nothing big just new bucket tooth adapters on a 420e back hoe bucket . Pictures to come
Here is probably my last major project. I probably overwelded the new tooth adaptors like a mofo but i was practicing and sayying good bye to my suitcase setup
Walker, sounds like you are coming in to the final stretch! Hope you're last week goes well (no hard feelings wise). What are you using for a wire feeder? Regards, Bob
Last week should go fine not sure what imma do as I'm taking my tools out of the truck today or tomorrow and putting them into my truck that should be sitting at the house Monday nite , I only have one little twist of the knife left in me but I have to email Benefits side of the company and see if the 70 hrs vaca time im showing as a balance is fully vested so I can cash or out or not . Ok on too your question I have a miller engine drive trailblazer 325 gasoline on the truck and a mig capable miller 12rc suitcase. I have only run 2 wires I it to date Lincoln 71m dualshield in 1/16 and some lincoln .045 hardfacing flux core wire that I open arced . I coulda used the the shop wire welder but whats the fun in that .
70 hours, holey crap! That's a chunk of change. My neighbor has a 12rc that runs real nice... my LN25 has been glitchy after running around the 300 amp range lately, it has the contactor and I am pretty sure I have been staying below the 60% duty cycle so not sure what the deal is (current will drop off almost like it's derating?). I really like the dual shield wire (makes me look like I know what I'm doing), but haven't run any hard facing wire yet. Regards, Bob
The welder i the shop is an ln 25 also i think buts its sitting on a 225 amp power source know I have about fried it before doing some heavy welds on the horizontal wood grinder
Shop wire feed is an old LN-7 I was way off lol 225 power source was correct. ... 70 hrs is a fair chunk vested for it only being end of March but I have been there 8 years I got vacation time every year I always. Cash out I have no want to use it most of the time it is used on taking my wife to appts
Got my new ride to the house now i can get it loaded up and organized. I have work waiting on me for monday walked some of the truck fleet casually saw 3 outta phase drivelines that need fixxen asap
Congrats, your new office looks pretty nice! (Must have a C7?) You sound like my buddy, he can see an out of position yoke a mile away. Regards, Bob
3126 and it runs pretty nice. Just needs a steering shaft ordered I didn't like. Walking the steering wheel back and forth on the way home
Not a bad looking ride at all. I've got a 12RC and a 12VS. Had the RC first when I had the airpak. When it went back to Miller I had no use for it until I got the XMT for the shop. I am welder POOR! Haha. Good luck man hope it's all good and you get a far check for your vacation time!
Yeah buddy. This rig is the spare with a currently broken bobcat.payroll emailed me it will be payed out.
Oh, that's always nice when you don't have to fight for it. How's your luck with 3126s over there? Around here they and the C7 are a four letter word.
You know they have there certain problems like cam follower gaskets. Oil cooler gaskets .injector cups, and the occasional heui system catastrophic failure but personally I have good luck with them . My service truck at work now is an untouched c7 with 19k hours on it just has a couple minor leaks
I kind of wonder if it is not our terrain out here, it seems you are either going up or down a 7% or 15% or even 30% grade and the wimpy little engine is straining its guts out. And maybe poor drivers forget to shift and let it overspeed on them. I don't know what the territory is like where you are but that is just a theory I have had. I know I visited Missouri and the Ozark "mountains" are what we would call a meadow around here. Just a thought.
Could be it isn't flat here but the hills are little short ones some are steep but you aren't on them long
Last day at work played with the morbark 4600 for a couple hrs triing a few things and training the fill in guy on what to look at as far as wear parts and what to do when and how often . Was a crash course in grinder maintenance for sure . If he stays with the company I have my doubts I know I will get a phone call or 2 on it which is fine when they decide to grind wood again .
Aw, come on birken, we've got some hills here, you just weren't in the right spot. I will say that we don't have near the super long grades that you find out west, but we've got some short steep ones. This hill is on the same ridge that my shop is on, about a mile away from my shop. It's about the same grade that my shop hill is at, my shop hill road has two spots in it that are a little steeper than this one, and my hill has curves in it, this one is a straight shot. My shop hill isn't posted for grade, and if you can't quite make out the sign, it says 19% grade for this road. And it isn't the steepest road I go up and down, it's just the only one around that's marked.
Missouri doesn't believe in cut and fill road construction. You don't gain much in elevation, but every hill is straight up one side and straight down the other. My high school buddy is heavily involved in historic cars and some how got roped in to a project to drive a Model T from NYC to LA. He had more trouble with grades in MO than anywhere else along the trip.
I feel like have rearranged everything 5 times . Still have one more tool box to unload thankfully not much in it just specialty stuff
[QUOTE="walkerv, post: 740615, Got my new ride to the house now i can get it loaded up and organized. I have work waiting on me for monday walked some of the truck fleet casually saw 3 outta phase drivelines that need fixxen asap[/QUOTE] I think they send out trucks from the factory like this.I have worked on trucks that had outta phase drivelines and the recoreds didnt show ever haveing the drivelines apart.
I think they send out trucks from the factory like this.I have worked on trucks that had outta phase drivelines and the recoreds didnt show ever haveing the drivelines apart.[/QUOTE] Yeah I have seen them like that on a predelivery inspection at the dealer its rare but happens . These are all older trucks pre emissions one has a new carrier bearing other 2 look like it might be from a tow truck driver reinstalling
I haven't gotten to any of the drivelines issues yet 2 days into the new job and I couldn't ask for anything better came home stress free even though they set a dump truck on its side gently today come quitting time we go home . I'm attacking mack e tech electrical faults and gremlins and getting tech tool to work rite . Tommorrow is clear a fault if I can get tech tool to agree then reseal a fuel leak on a eup on a truck that I think has a drive line issue .and I have an engine harness to do on another mack once the welder is done relining a dump truck ...i have another ch with one of them egr e tech mack engine first one I have seen that has intermittent issues that one will be fun I'm sure .
Anyone know what the cat 3056e engine is based from or is it its. Own unique breed. This. One is living in a 930g loader
It's a Perkins should have caught it just from the fuel system .head gasket kit has half of it with Perkins printed on it also . Think the whole front cover assy has to come off to fix a coolant leak ill find out monday morning
This is a lot of work to fix a coolant leak .I'm not impressed with older Perkins setup after this .
Those engines also tend to leak oil at the lower left corner where the front cover meets the pan. Also, one of the oil cooler hoses (closest to the front I think) develops a leak at the top swage. CAT updated the hose because of this but one I had replaced was leaking again a year later.
Two sister trucks overheating, got told this and this was done had me confused till I found out it was all done over a year ago, I have a theory one of the parts they threw at these trucks fixed it but the cooling package was plugged up already with chicken litter and oily asphalt fumes , at least that is what it looked. Like .
I call those Perkapillars.
Cat now owns Perkins outright.
Ok why did they start putting Kubota in skid steers. Just curious if they own them why would they not use them if anyone knows
I don't know. The Cat skids I have seen are all Perkins or Mitsubishi. Cat and Mitsubishi have been in cahoots for a long time. Much of the compact equipment is Mitsubishi with Cat stickers. The larger machines are Cat. To add to the confusion, some of the Perkins engines are actually Shibura designed engines made by Perkins.
Where I worked they got a new 279d ctl it was Kubota powered .where I work now has some older ones in curious to what they are powered by now
Ain't it fun? They all do this crap. Look at Bobcat. I think they have tried ever possible engine. They've had Kohler, Onan, Continental, Wisconsin, Perkins, Ford, Peugot, Cummins, John Deere, Kubota, and Doosan. Now, that's from tiny machines up to the biggest, but still, that's all over the map.
A while ago we ordered a new Kubota V2203 4cylinder engine, it arrived shrink wrapped and palletised and all the paperwork attached to it appeared to be from a Mitsubishi factory. We thought they had sent wrong engine until we unwrapped it, but it was the usual blue Kubota engine inside. Not sure what that was all about, but good engine regardless.
New project hit the yard , engine has been redone have to go pick it up along with all the pieces . Any wagers as to how many parts and bits are missing ? Truck has been down for 3.5 years .
Oh I'm sure all the parts are neatly organized, maybe even labeled.....
Yeah sure lol. Good thing almost all of my career has been spent working on this vintage of mack trucks .
They've just been saving that project for you. I can hear the conversation: "hey, the new mechanic guy is a mack man- how bout we drag up that truck we pulled the engine out of a couple years ago and see if he can put it together!" I've got a pete in my shop right now, with a engine pulled out of it. I need to get my rear in gear and get a motor found for it, or I'm going to be looking in 3 years at a mechanic saying, " we just pulled the motor a while back, everything should be there......"
There is another truck that has been gone for 6 months at a different shop ,motor has been pulled but thats it . Not sure why they are taking them out . I would like to get that one back asap before it gets torn apart any further
I would also be questioning the seemingly automatic removals.
If they have a lot of these Macks, they may be cycling engines through a rebuild shop and just plugging them into whatever truck needs one. Or they may be swapping in used engines. Some places are just allergic to an in-frame.
They are smaller engine shops I'm guessing that dont have alot of room for inframe and they were told no hurry do it when you got time . Which i find is a recipe for stuff to get lost. Im hoping to go pick up the engine tuesday along with the radiators , the hood and front bumper is at our shop. I want to get this truck done asap so i can get the other one back before it is touched , i have no idea if these people are using oem mack parts or aftermarket , im not against aftermarket bits here and there but prefer oem internals . I have another truck that is running asphalt daily on borrowed time it has a camshaft starting to go out. Im hoping to get that one in before something catastrophic happens to it. It will get a cam kit with bearings , and a new set of rods and mains rolled in while the pan is off and possibly a new oil pump while im in there ,dont have crap for blowby so im not worried about the rest of engine at this time
Sunday morning project for a friend that is triing to leave the same place i just left recently. Did a quick pm on the engine, fixxed his air fan issues ,got ac working decent , hooked wire back up to front jakebrake. and looked over 3406b so i know what i need to look up parts wise .going to run the overhead and check jakes and reseal the pass thru unions in the head for the fuel lines and install the missing clamps on the fuel lines. Need to find him some kinda fuel water seperator setup the one that is on it is disconnected for some reason and is old school . Rite now truck just has the cat fuel filter on it
Owners next restoration project , 830 diesel, front is 6 volt with pony motor , rear is electric start. I have only seen these in pictures before
Now that thumping would put you SOUND asleep on a hot sun baked field!!!
Hate when this happens , got new u bolts in that side . Got it back to the shop changed the other side also and started tightening, gotta put the torque wrench and multiplier on it in the am and pray they click rite away lol
Camelback Mack? I seem to remember 1200 ft-lbs.
Pretty close . 1850 N•m , 1364 lbsft i click them at 1400 lbsft with the torque multiplier
Played row your boat on a creeper with the multiplier and my 3/4" torque wrench many moons ago, can feel for you! Now get out there and start torqueing!
The factory makes it looks easy. lol
Nope not labeled. Picked up my build a mack truck kit today took 2 trips , started sorting thru some of it , looks like im going to be calling mack for little bits as i get to them
Oowie I can relate to times as that! Walked into St. Charles Quarry my first time, asked me if could build a 110, said knew how, walked me to shop with one scattered across three bays and covered in dirt. Once got all cleaned and sorted (a week) then figured what had been scavenged and located replacements(another week) then got the build done. Do not know why as the damn engine sat for five months before was needed anyway. Two pair saw horses and two sheets plywood to organize and get off the floor was the first actions.
You mean you don't have that tooling out in your shop?
While I did my share of in frames on everything from END707 Macks and 16V-71 Detroits I always preferred the pull and strip to bare block rebuilds. One reason is working in a quarry situation the amount of dirt caked on things and in many cases the lack of good cleaning facilities made doing a good job a major challenge! Also the poor maintenance of many of the machines and the abuse they were subject to along with the run to they die attitude meant often machine shop services on block and cranks were a given. Pulling the dry sleeves out of a Mack 707/711 engine in frame on the back two cylinders could be a challenge. And we had such a mixed fleet getting management to open pockets for tooling for some jobs was not easy at times.
I got the paul harvey version when i picked up this engine. It went to the engine shop as an assembled long block as the rebuild was being done in house . He wasnt going to put his name on it without looking at the lower end so they dropped the pan and made sure everything was good down below and assembled it to the point in my pictures. After seeing to bolts missing from damper and even more bolt not in the right spot i started dismantling some of it i made alot of trips out to storage where we have 3 blown motors they became hardware and a few parts donors today . Took flywheel off rear main seal installed way to deep ,no permatex aviation on wear sleeve . Crappy rtv job on flywheel housing and front cover , this will be redone . Removed oil filter base to put a new oil cooler. Onto it. Removed intake to replace with a good one. Not worrn at the inlet connection , water. Manifold. Came off also good thing cuz it would have leaked guaranteed found another good donor . What started this teardown inspection was when i pulled the air compressor off and found the oil supply tube was not installed . Boss man quit freaking out about me tearing it partially apart once i showwed him that part. Along with al the other stuff i found .shop that did this partially reassemble of a partially done overhual dont do mack engines so they are not totally at fualt and they got given 2 pallets of parts to figure out .
Always hated having to take over a job midstream, fretted over if the other person had done their inspections to the level I would or assembled as properly as I would, then the missing/lost/discarded fasteners you had to figure out luckily you had a couple scrappers to scrounge off. Even the END 673 engine sleeves were a pain Hansen, we had the correct puller and a dry ice cooler at Mack St. Louis but in the field did as we could with what had including welding a line up the inside of the sleeves to shrink them in the independent shops I worked.
Agree on not liking coming in in the middle of a project, I would not mind if the first half was done by Norm who worked in the shop for years with me. We were both abut the same as to being fussy about checking things and not putting a bolt or drain in unless we had the proper tool to tighten it. Worst case if we had to leave something in the middle would leave the wrench hanging on the bolt last tightened. That way you had a good idea where job was when last touched. Just thinking about Mack's reminded me about something from many years back. One of the plants near here in Central NY had an almost new Mack truck and they had me look at it as they thought it had a knock in the engine. Ran it a bit and agreed it sounded like there was something not right low down in the engine. They decided to have me drop the pan and see if I could find out what it was. Forget some details but while checking rod bearings found one rod where one rob cap bolt was not even snug! forget if I had brought a bearing set with me or if they had one in their shop but slipped out the one rod bearing and slipped a new one in and torqued all the rods, none others were loose. Started truck and it ran and sounded fine. When I told my boss what I had found and done he was happy but wanted to get Mack to pay for my time and the new bearing. Mack rep said You have two options. As I had not followed factory prescribed methods like removing rod and checking all spec's they would either pay for my time making the repair but void any other warranty claims in the future on the engine or everyone could "forget" I had touched the engine and any new problems would be covered under normal factory warranty. So we ate that one days labor! Never heard of the truck ever having any other problems. Guess it was coffee time when that one bolt was to be tightened!
Knocking Macks, brought back a OLD Memory, old man brought us a B61 with a transplanted Maxidyne, had been in the wagon some years and many miles as well hours of operation. He thought was building a knock, was scared of a failing bearing. Service Foreman had me hand throttle the engine to 900rpm, crack a fuel line loose at each cylinder and note the noises. At best when did so sounded like the pistons were trying to change holes! Had almost .060 piston to sleeve clearance when pulled it down, pistons were tying to turn sideways in their bores. Old man changed engine oil once a year whether needed it or not just always checked and added as needed.
Made it to the mack house today brought back 1500 in parts and bits including a new flywheel as one i took to be surfaced was toast to worn to grind again , will post some progress next week when i get a chance to work on it more , hoping to get truck closer to shop so i can pressure wash the insides of frame and front of the tranny before i work on cross shafts and release yoke and swing the engine in .
making progress slow but sure , made several more trips to the donor engines . Redid crap silicone job on flywheel housing ,properly installed a rear main new flywheel and hung the clutch. Compressor back on with oil tube installed and new air inlet pipe. Doner water manifold and intake manifold installed new inlet elbow. New oil cooler back on filter base and reinstalled on engine . Tommorrow will hopefully be redo the front cover silicone job and make sure all is ok in there then put oil pan back on and hopefully swing it in Friday morning
Couldnt even tell this was broke while in the machine 815B . Sometimes rear axle would pull sometimes it wouldnt .
Hmmmm, musta been catching a high spot!
The chunks were occasionally jamming it up we think absolutly no metal was found untill we wiggled it then a handful fell out from behind the bearing.
I will be in the shop bright and early monday morning waterpump started leaking on my way home saturday. Tried making a parts list every waterpump option in sis came up contact dealer only one reman option showwed up as instock so i guess i call my favorite parts guy and get a lesson on parts lookup right quick. If. Anyone wants to mess around on sis cuz they are bored ser no ckm43313 , ar 201-6317 v belt style drive.
Have you tried looking it up under the "as shipped" function? 2-3 spots down from system and components link. That will help narrow it down for you.
Yeah that got me the contact dealer choice , and in reman search shows no waterpump even though i know it exists.
Well from what I see the original "as shipped" pump was a 120-8402. That appears to have changed to a 365-2134 which in turn went to a 352-2157 which has a Reman number of 20R0586 and a "Classic" number of 4330441. The Reman number shows as $245+core of about $200, Classic $237 and no core. All that said I'd still run it by your local dealer. Also noticed there was a service bulletin that mentioned an updated clamp that referenced the CKM serial number you might want to have them look up for you. Not that it will help you but both the Reman and Classic numbers are on the shelf at my local dealer in Syracuse.
You got the reman number correct . What was the updated clamp for? They had. They the reman on the shelf also when the contact dealer thing showes up i end up talking to my parts guy he needs to show me how that works some evening when i go buy there before he leaves .im glad im hourly doing that pump and tstat and a new water pump belt in a gmc chassis sucks .
Not a lot of information but here's what came up:
Seems it's just a simple worm type clamp item #8 in this picture:
Yep i order those got the wrong ones ended up reusing my old ones . New clamp is 2 piece with an inner wrapper like mack used to use.
So my truck is fixxed same day i got it done other mechanic broke his crane, then last week boss man truck died emmissions related , so im in only truck with working crane and a pressure washer on board , my build a mack truck kit has been put on hold for a little bit .
Been awhile like 8 years since i worked on a cat in a truck, first time for a water pump on the twin turbo setup , i would rather do the water pump on my service truck again . Not sure what book time is on doing one but it was aggravating me for sure
Been awhile since i posted . The inclimate weather of florence has finally allowed me to get back on the mack. set the engine back in it this morning after lunch i intend on getting it in the shop and shade so i can work out the rest of the jigsaw puzzle .
Just noticed the twin steer Sheppard p/s box on the passenger side. Heavy wagon you have there.
Yeah we have a couple with set up 4 i think not sure if its speced the same as a michigan special but they do have heavy fronts on them , all 4 are tri axle dumps
No time to post or time to think about posting anything, i love my new job but dang i stay busy. Project jigsaw mack is running but not on the road yet , it has several severe and mildly annoying issues due to sitting for over 3 years an example would be the reverser valve on that mack transmission was stuck due to corrosion, after freeing it up and reinstallation i got my forward back and made a couple laps around the yard , couple times of hitting the brakes and i think almost every brake valve is leaking now , gotta love it . Update 2 the parade restoration is coming along nicely now on the twin jd 830's I estimate it will be fully done sometime in january, but we have to move it over to the tiny paintshop bay to make way for the christmas party this friday .
we got it moved out the way its not done but getting there rear tractor has an oil pressure guage line leaking we think and the hydrualic couplers on front tractor wont stay locked they are used for steering . Chrome straight pipes are on order .
Forgot to post this one its a rogers tilt deck , we completely stripped rehosed rewired painted and i redid the brakes on it got rid of the old style parking brakes and installed 3030 chambers and a midland all in one brake valve to run them and got rid of the manual slacks also. Im told the trailer has never stopped that good ever . We did all this in just under 2 weeks but forgot to take a completed picture.
If anyone an interesting read on a 3126 cat problem here it is . HeavyEquipmentForums I always seem to get the problems that have multiple serious issues going on all at once in a terrible chain of events . Ohwell at least i got thru it , now i need to hunt up a good used engine .
Theres gonna be a 2006 peterbilt 355 mechanics truck c7 cat eaton tranny ,at rb auction next friday in atlanta georgia. Truck is in pretty decent shape owner decided to sell it . No pictures yet it is leaving in the morning to go to there yard. If anyone is in the market. I spent the afternoon cleaning out the compartments its amazing what we collect in a truck.
Well thats odd they drove the truck there saturday now the listing that didnt have pictures is gone, i was hoping to post the link when it had pictures. I will check again tommorrow nite
Project mack the jigsaw puzzle is closer then it has been in years to being put back on the road but i would not release it due to a little problem of low oil pressure when oil was warm not hot yet , pressure was at minimum mack spec with a mechanical guage hooked up. Dropped the pan inspected and measured oil pump ,that was good . Plastiguage a couple mains those were good . At this point i began scratching my head becuase engine was running silky smooth and quiet but when i plastiguage 2 rod bearings it never even began to flatten it, ordered a set of 10 over rod bearings and checked then clearance was perfect. Ordered a new set of standard mains also as they are showing wear after 5 hours and had crap go thru them pluss it gives me some peice of mind that they are all installed correctly and in the correct spots. Took a picture of the rod bearings they have roughly 5 hrs or less of run time at the shop mostly airing up the truck to fix leaks .
Better to pause/err to caution than to end up rebuilding the rebuild.
I almost have, dont see any liner leaks and i havent had to take the cam out or cylinder heads off ,at this point im going to say yet. Here is the mains i have changed out so far glad i did , this thing got put together dirty and the rods dumping the oil i feel was letting the mains get a bit close to the crank i dont like how they are looking for less then 5hrs no load.
Treat yerself to a new pair of boots man.........
Was thinking that very aspect!! Lots of guys wear them until can see daylight, I cannot go that long!! Enjoy Dry and Protected!!
Yeah im way over due , lose my ambition on the weekend to go to the redwing store these are 3 years old ,heavy but best i have ever had
Cannot do Redwings, toe box not near wide enough, also hard as hell to find 14 narrow with a wide toe box.
Hey now! mine were often worse looking than those!
I have a set of Redwing glue on toe protectors I could mail you! https://www.amazon.com/Red-Wing-95183-Brown-Bumpers/dp/B007RSW2L8 Heck if you wear 9 1/2 EEE I could make you a deal on a new pair of boots!
Boots are to far gone for that , seams are ripping all over the place i can see my socks. Lol
You must be left handed, I usually tear out the right toe first. I like the red wings, not many boot makers still make narrow widths. And as pricey as they are, I like to get every last mile out of them, I've never made 3 years though with a set. I can usually only get 6-9 months. Usually have the front edge of the soles worn out, or a hole over a steel toe. Never had stitching problems. The red wings do have their own aroma, if you step on a hot piece of slag or bolt that was just torched off, and get the soles burning/ melting.
^Those are the exact model I wear^. They don't have them on the shelf anymore, I have to order them. I have over 3 years on mine and the toe is torn out and one of the hook eyelets has broken off. I got 5 years on a pair once, but can't get that anymore.
Im right handed both toes are worn thru to steel , i was doing real good with them till i started working primarily on trucks again , i move around so much doing brakes i usually just slap on my knee pads and kneel doing them this wearing the leather off the toes , when i go get a new pair they will have protectors on them before i leave . Stiching was just staring to rip when i changed jobs a year ago climbing all over trucks finished them off .
I get the little cans of Bedliner type stuff and re-apply it about every three months. Helps to make them last about a year.
Ok i take something back about project mack, i thought it was silky smooth and quiet running before , now that it has the correct rod bearings in it i can hear the combustion take place and i swear i can just about hear the fuel injection cycle also. Just lit it off topped off oil now its warming up in shop we shall see if oil pressure stays up now
This is beginning to frustrate me 10psi is min at idle hot oil, i only have coolant temp up to 150 so far
Check the sensor against a known good mechanical gauge.
Have you had the oil pump out of it, or the engine oil PRV..? What maximum pressure did it go to with cold oil..?
Yes mechanical guage reads same as my scanner and vcads. The actual guage in dash is a little low lower it gets . Oil pump is a new reman took it apart and inspected it and measured it prv is with the pump i dismantled that as well and applied a bit of lapping compound to be sure plunger was sealing. Thought for sure the standard rod bearing on a 10 under crank was the culprit. Full speed oil pressure in spec. What i am seeing is psi fluctuations when around half throttle goes 39 psi up to 50 then back down , i am currently triing to get to one of our junker engines to have a look at the oil filter bypass valve in the filter head , my whole problem with this engine is the short block was assembled by someone that no longer wotks here and i cannot find out what all he put into it. I will take a picture of the oil flow diagram when i get a chance i know rods and mains are good for sure . I dont know about cam bearings aux shaft bearings or the idler gear which is also fed oil. To me it sounded kinda noisy in the front cover , i have not been in there yet. Oil pressure is sensor is in the filter head which is first spot the oil goes after leaving pump then it goes straight to the mains and goes put from there . Im almost wondering if my filter head has a crack in it now that im thinking about it . It is a mack etech with flat plate cooler set up if anyone is familer with that arrangment 2004 truck
Ok picture one is filter bypass not servicable but just dumps into what should be clean oil supply . Picture 2 is supply from pump to filters , picture 3 is clean oil supply to mains. Picture 4 is centrimax drain to crankcase . I have never seen one of these crack but it is a possibility.
I have added a few things to my post nige i wasnt really paying attention to cold oil pressure at idle it had 45-50 but i did not floor it till it was warmed up some and pressure was already dropping, i was trying to hurry up move my crap and get it outside before anyone in the office came out cause for some reason the smells make it into the offices even with the doors open. I have a nutty feeling whatever is going on is what caused the rebuild to begin with, i was told it spun a rod bearing but im still wondering how one of the rocker shafts got broken. I need the paul harvey version right quick and in a hurry. There is also a soft plug with a precision hole in it at the front of the aux shaft on these engines i can check that pretty easy just have to pop a cover off where a front cover mounted powersteer pump would go .if that checks out im going to pull the oil filter pedestal and figure out a way i can pressure test it . Im thinking a blank plate that i can bolt to it to pressurize the oil sides but i have to figure out a way to stop the centrimax filter from getting any supply , then if i get air or oil coming out the drain portion of the filter stand i will have my culprit, sounds easy to type it now i have to implement it , oil pressure sensor is in the filter stand so it kinda makes sense to me to check there for an issue before i go hog wild on it again.
I was also rushing a bit when I posted ........ I should have said "What maximum pressure did it go to at low idle with cold oil..?" Then you can compare apples with apples of oil pressure cold versus "warm".
I was always taught that a good engine should have 10 psi for every 100 RPM at cold start up.
Alright a drifted thought, is there any possible chance the feed to the rocker shafts is either loose or not seated, cracked, or possibly just blowing oil? One of the first failures I ever had on an engine we put the incorrect bolt in a rocker arm shaft retainer, with a incorrect length, torqued up but failed to draw down, oil was spraying like a blowout well under the cover. Or maybe incorrect head gaskets again not sealing the oil gallery?
Maybe pull valve covers and start up to see how much flow is coming up there? Look down the push rod tube hole to see if there is major flow from a head gasket problem? Forget, is there an orifice in the Centri-Max filter housing that could be missing? One last thought that could cause a big mess. Do you have access to something to supply a good flow of oil? Say like a filter cart, electric powered pump or even an air powered barrel pump? Just thinking about somehow hooking in a supply of oil to the engine with the pan and valve covers off to see where the oil is going. We had a "Bearing Leak Detector" that was basically like a portable air tank that you could fill with oil and connect air hose to to push the oil out. I believe it was sold by Federal Mogul to be used to check for bad bearings in an engine.
I used to have one, traded it off years ago for some other tools was a old air tank of a FL8664 Freightliner. Welded in a 2" pipe nipple(In end cap), made legs to stand on end could put a gallon of oil thru an engine in short order so put a needle valve on the outlet to control that flow.
Took a little looking and cutting and pasting but found a short advertisement for the one we had at the quarry, not sure but it may have followed me home when I retired! The advertisement below is out of a Pit and Quarry Magazine dated September 1947!
When you connect a air supply to these put a regulator on it, dial it back to where you show the PSI the engine runs at. Otherwise in a Blip of seconds the tank goes DRY!! Do NOT ask.
All good suggestion no matter what i do a mess is no big deal the post the centrimax filter sits on is the orfice. Its rained so i am currently flooded with dump truck issues cuz truck drivers hate driving the spares. I got into a run hot/ bad fan belt and tensioner and a face plugged rad this morning , then a wheel seal on a peterbilt , have to do the other 3 drive brakes in the morning and both tandems on its trailer, then maybe i can clean up my mess on the project and get to inspecting some things. I stripped a used filter pedestal we had laying around gonna clean that up and change that first i have come up with a way to pressurize the old pedestal once i get it off, i think im going to pull that left steer tire to make my access a lot easier seeing how it has 425 steers on it and that left side needs a wheel seal anyways .will post on what i find out .
Dont you love working on trucks were things can change like the weather or seasons and all hell brakes lose. I work on propane trucks and it has wormed up so the drivers have nothing to do but think what is wrong.
Yeah when its raining the drivers are usually shut down unless owner needs chicken litter hualed or jobs need stone. So i pretty much have to drop what im doing to address truck issues, i have become pretty effecient at clearing out the shop though , i usually start a truck and fumigate the place i like the way a good running mack smells lol everyone else not so much
Quick update on project mack changed out the oil filter pedestal with a good used one found gasket was installed correctly so that was 2 possible issues killed at once , removed valve covers after oil was warmed no major leaks up there that can be seen made a huge mess though. Did notice that the front rocker shaft seems to have just a little less pressure then rear. Did a little studying on an old torn Apart block we have stashed found the oil rifle for the lifters is 2 sections just like the mains and there is a pipe plug behind the cam gear im suspect is missing. There is a plug on the block that goes to the front journal of the aux shaft i rigged my blow gun up to it and hit the trigger and had instant air out the breather on front cover no gurgle or hesitation at all. Dropped the pan air is definatly coming from up in the cover. See the lub diagram i posted previously . In going to take front cover off tommorrow once i get boss mans truck taken care off . I tried getting the boroscope up in the cover thru the breather location not enough room so in going to have to go in for a visual . Going to carefully mark one piston cooling jet also and make sure it has its rubber seal installed also.
This is why I hated following someone else's work, cannot ever trust anything done to the level you would have yourself done.
I could see where someone had removed the plugs to run a gun cleaning brush down the bores to be sure everything was nice and clean and then lunch bell sounded while installing the plugs or that emergency job came up and they had to leave the shop. When something happened for me I tried to leave a note or something to remind me where I left off. Something simple like stick a pencil in the hole that the plug was missing from.
Ok cover is off on the mack all plugs are in place under front cover , i made a classic inframe mistake plasti gauging main crank bearings , who can tell me what i did or didnt do ? Dmiller you are exactly correct following behind people sucks especially when they obviously were not paying attention putting this engine together.
Let the weight of the shaft give an incorrect reading?
That sounds like an easy one to make if you forget to somehow support the weight of the crank. I'm thinking there maybe two or three common methods. One could use a couple small hydraulic jacks to lift the crank while doing the gauging. Another way I could see would be to remove caps either side of bearing being measured and stick a couple layers of cardboard between crank and bearing then snug up the caps enough to lift crank. Or you could roll truck over on it's top and do them!
Mack’s are a different breed. I overhaul a lot of Mack engines. I have found that the blocks always need line bored, the cranks are always bent. The bearings will show signs of weird wear patterns. Short of tearing them down to the block and crank and sending them to a good machine shop to line bore and straighten the crank, I put them together and run. They will last a fair time, they are tough. Something else is that they have different oil pumps depending on if they have jakes or dynatard. The oil pumps look the same at a glance. Get ahold of a good mack Parts man and make sure you have the right one. Due to the bends in the crank and mis-alignment of the block, you can’t trust plastigauge. Just some things I have learned over the years.
I have the right oil pump i dont trust plastiguage either was just using it to find where the oil was going basicaly. This engine has brakes but it has powerleash set up .it nice becuase you dont have to remove jake housings to adjust valves but they suck to adjust , there not bad it just a little more time consuming then i like
Dont tempt me there is a 345 sitting on the lowboy .yeah i totally forgot to get the weight off crank. I blame the guy who put this pain in my ass shortblock together i should not be doing what im doing due to negligence.
Exactly not only was it incorrect it gave a perfect reading as far as that stuff goes
That brain cell failed to fire in my head, we never got .010/Std cranks back from regrind, rods were .010 then too the mains. Sorry for that fail to engage.
Its alright I've never had to deal with a mismatched rebuild someone else did ,i will have bearing monday morning . On the pluss side i now know everything is correct under the front cover idler gear is new or has a new bushhing in it all pluggs are in , so that is a positive . At least now i know why oil pressure didnt improve after rod bearings change , it was all dumping out the mains, at least the top end was getting oil still .
Many years ago at one of our sister quarries they had an almost new Mack ten wheeler dumper that they wanted me to check out as they felt it had a rod knock in it. Not sure why but I had a spare set of engine bearings on the shelf so I grabbed the box and drove over to the other quarry. Listened to it run and it sure sounded like a bad rod, not real bad but for a low hour engine just not right. They asked me to drop the pan and take a look. To my surprise after dropping the pan while looking at the rods found that one rod bolt was not even finger tight! Removed the cap and crank looked good. Bearing was not bad looking but I just happened to have the correct new ones in my truck. Slipped in the new bearing and torqued rod bolts, all seemed good. Started truck up after putting pan back on and sounded great. Can only guess someone missed that one bolt at the factory and it just took a good bit of running to back out. Company tried to get Mack to pay for my labor and the new bearing. They said "No problem, but if anything else goes wrong with the engine in the future it's on us!" My boss said "Never mind, we never touched that engine!" Never had another problem with that engine as far as I knew.
Well one good thing is the guy who screwed this one up on you is not there any more, just hope anything else he touched is not waiting to bite you down the road!
Yeah i think that guy was only here a little over a year he spent most of his time in the field ,not on trucks i was hired to be the primary truck mechanic , i will never work myself out of a job here.
Still waiting on my oversize mains that i was supposed to get monday afternoon, did confirm they will be delivered in the am. Next semi quick project is this fine 1983 r686st that decided to break the band clamp off the compressor housing ,its starting to pass some oil so have a turbo sitting on the bench along with a bunch of air intake and charge air hoses that are either cobbled up damaged or is radiator hose.this old girl earns her keep usually hauling liquid nitrogen to the farm tanks or out to the fields. Conveniently it broke down just as she was getting close to the grading shop guess she wants some love too.
R686 was a Good model for Bulldog, long lived and well designed for what it accomplished. A spin off upgrade of the old Bs with a smallish cab, minimal appointments and very stark stoic yet efficient interiors. Heaters left a little to be desired, AC was not much good on the early ones and the cabs would crack from corner across to opposite corner until the later air rides that beat the cowl on the hood edge. Still effective Mutts. That one have the Air to Air Intercooler with Tip Turbine fan? Those were a chunk to get in the way of everything.
Nope this one has a normal air to air, i can't read the reman data plate on engine i know its an e6 , hood is badged with econodyne .
Finally, time to do one steer wheel seal and let it hit the road, gonna have it be my loaner truck as long as they will let me .guage itself it slightly off its reading 30 psi on my eaton scanner.
Finally!!!!
Yes sir and thanks to your tid bit of info on when they grind cranks they do all the journals , I will lock that away in the memory bank for safe keeping. Also i had heard a little noise coming from the gear train before that now is gone also. Now i can get to that old mack that needs the turbo and some air intake piping love.
Got her parked in the line today i have a driver that will get her broke in and not tear up nothing for a few day pluss he will let me know what isnt rite besides the reverse alarm and city horn and air horn, who knows what else after sitting three years , air system and valves should be ok i spent a week or 2 just fixxing that stuff.
Be ready for all hell to fail!!
2 days down all good, from the sounds of it i may have to pick out a new spare truck this driver is liking it
Next project not exactly what i had planned , one head bolt broke rite at its head been like that for a little while but started leaking coolant externally from it .
Work is work!!
Yeah true enough . My mack salesman stopped by and said boy you work on everything, i told him if it has a diesel in in i will work on it . Im quickly becoming the go to guy for keeping farming operations going, mostly because im always at the shop and near the farm . Although this 8400t was recently aquired and was pulling a huge disc harrow on a jobsite. Gonna need a bunch of undercarriage work and a paint job was casually mentioned im so glad i dont do paint lol.
Big edit on this one yeah had a broken headbolt alrite , but aparantly coulda put a radiator in it and kept running it and fixxed head at a later date , dont think it was actually leaking from the head bolt but the 3 inch long crack in the top radiator tank would sure blow coolant everywhere. Thats 3rd strike no more worky if i dont diagnose the issue or double check the diagnoses if it becomes a shop project. I know better but give a few chances to everyone .
Years ago would have machine brought to me, be told well so and so told me it needs this done. So I being the smartass I am would ask why isn't so and so taking care of it. I do my own diagnosis, if it matches what customer was told gave credit against my time, if different I warned them up front before laid a wrench on anything beyond check out. I also would often let them know would do what the other guy told them but any repairs beyond would be on them.
I hear ya this isnt the first time i have run into peoples with this issue, like hey walker put the oil pan gasket on that mack i was like ok, get over to the truck cab it over mr mack garbage truck , see trail of fresh oil running out the turbo drain oring, shake my head fix it in 15 minutes park truck back in line, then get the what are you doing line as i take the pan gasket and isolaters to the parts room to stash them for safe keeping. I was training a boy for a time before i switched positions and always told him find the leak they are complaining about or boss told you it was then look up 9 times out of 10 the actual leak was higher up. So this was the case i shoulda topped it up with fresh water and put my pressurizer on it , which should have been done in the field , someone was to much in a hurry and was focused soley on that broken head bolt they found that has been broken for a very very long time.
Here is most of the fleet i take care of that i thought i would get thru in 6 months to a year, that was grossly under estimated lol, about 11 trucks scattered atm plus a few in the second row. Even at that im still not sorry for changing jobs a little over a year ago
Figured i would update my picture to current job , and my current status after losing control of a tuflo 550. Pretty sure it was the coolant fitting that got me as it smashed my finger to the frame rail. Wife said how bad is it i said eh. Should you have gone to the dr , me probably but all they will be able to do is clean and bandage it i can do that after i take a shower. Needless to say she shook her head and walked of lol
I have had fingers, and some toes like that!!
Here is one of Murphy's projects just about to get checked off the list, soon as i check toe, aim the headlights and install the bezels it appears even with the new left spring the tip of the frame got tweeked a bit, or the bumper was crooked before dunno.
They are all a 'Little Tweaked'. Looks good.
Lol thanks had to do a couple little tweaks think im going to order a new rh headlight bezel so it looks better and needs shocks all the way around but it will be back on the rd in the am.
Here goes another one off of Murphy's checklist as long as i dont get called away. Stripped pump shaft. I have a few more put on the list by defualt mainly do to fixxing all this other stuff they got pushed back on the list
Well murphy let me start on some pms that need done, first truck i pulled in hasnt had a federal done since 2017.. well played murphy well played... lol
Another one bites the dust, back the way it was built new , minus meritor friction next truck is gonna get meritor so i can compare these marathon heat star linings i have them on about 4 trucks now. Steers i always go back with meritor friction .
Chambers must take a beating or are they part of the maintenance cycle?
I ended up changing 3 of them one was leaking , one was a 2424(mismatch truck supposed to have 3030). And one on the rear axle was cut to short ... im sure glad they dont buy the 100 dollar mgm and cut rods to short on them , i have a colection of used take off chambers most have rods cut to short the rest were mismatched sizes. I will also add when i started here my eagle eyes looked around and didnt see a single used taken off brake drum anywhere on the premises and only a handfull of steer drums that im not sure what they go on yet. So i have had my work cutout for me , using what i learned at the garbage company with our constant brake testing I'm making these dump trucks stop great again and adjust themselves like they are supposed to. I dont stock brake drums or shoes as i have so much to rebuild by the time i get cams and bushings changed and any other non wheel ends issues sorted out my parts show up via delivery and let me continue on. There are used brake drums all around the scrap pile now .
Mix match on chambers is a dangerous sport to play, DOT loves to see those.
For sure , most people cant tell but a quick glance from my eyes has me wiping of the clamp to verify the size , i do believe it is a red tag item on a roadside inspection but i have lost my big green book somewhere.i get to break some bad news to them monday as i noticed a bunch of stuff on the equipment list says not required on the federal due column, mostly trailers well if a combination gvwr totals 10k it requires federal on the trailer , and if it goes out of nc the pickup truck also requires it and a dot number , if said pickup truck stays in the state then the nc inspection on the truck will suffice and doesnt need to wear our dot number. So pretty much anything on rubber besides our pickups need federal inspections , even the boss mans personal trailers and race trailer as they are all listed under the company.
Oops i missed one or i was out of them when i rebuilt these brakes.i just ordered in 10 more 3030 gonna use 6 on the lowboy
Finally got around to fixxen the turbo on the 83 r model, i have had all the parts for a month or more . Got it running found the alternator bad , this isnt murphy though this truck just hauls the nurse tanks around for the farm so it isnt used very much at all.
330b bad oil leak and just started not shutting off with the key , found it and the bolt much to my suprise. Wiring was really only thing keeping the stop solenoid in
Once in awhile get magic style lucky!! BTW, just made eye contact on the Jury Rigged throttle return system on that Bulldog, now THAT needs attention!!! Is that a carabiner or a chain link the spring is attached with? and then wrapped around the oil fill tube?
Old 320 been running hot engine and hydrualics ever since engine was rebuilt last year , was ok root raking fields thru the winter on the farm but became unusable and constantly pushing water out when worked. After sometime scratching my head and saw no bubbles in cooling system and block check fluid stayed pretty blue yesterday i got called away to fix a broken truck . Went back to it this morning after the 330 was fixxed started warming it up feeling the radiator as thermostat started to open nice even warmth all across it , i started air digging and working it and temp stayed normal for quite sometime then shot up 3 bars in an instant, went back and touched top and bottom of radiator again , that is when i noticed all the hot ass air coming around the counterweight side of it and getting sucked back thru and this was with the hood open i can imagine it was way worse with hood shut , so all the foam seals for that side of rad and counterweight will be in in the morn gonna put all that in and see what happens.
Carabiner yes and yes wrapped around the oil fill tube , spring mount tab is intact and on the pump , new return spring , cracked puff limiter valve will be delivered soon as the windshield comes in .gonna call that a field fix literally becuase all this truck does is haul the nurse tanks to the local fields. Quite literally that spring is the first thing i noticed when i opened the hood over a month ago to see what happened to the turbo.
Saw junkyards youtube vid on his lowboy brakes last week and boom i ended up doing all 3 axles on our lowboy saturday ,what a cluster that ended up being, 3 different styles of slack adjusters, one 2424, two 3030ls the othe 3 were 3030 chambers one was i think original. Threw out the dust shield so you can now actually inspect them , brake linings cracked falling apart one had mainspring and rollers missing, what a mess it was . Front axle had to cut off both chamber brackets and reweld in proper position i think the been broke off before . So rogers puts nylon outer s cam bushings in i have a cam kits with bronze outers waiting for when i get the 3 rh cams , be a month and a half for em bendix is the only one that makes that size i need and i think im waiting for them to make a batch. rogers is supposed to order a batch also hope they order both sides cuz i got the last 3 lh cams in the country. When i get those im going to plan on doing one axle at a time and checking bearings out good while hubs are off.
This look better DMiller, soon as i get the windshield put in gramma can go back to the farm
We fixed a 315 overheating by replacing the foam strips on the counterweight. I shot it before and after with a thermal camera and the difference was noticeable
I ended starting a post in excavators on that problem , yes that was one of my problem the foam was missing , cooling system wouldnt hold pressure and threw in a new t stat for good measure, i have condemned the supposedly cleaned radiator that is orginal just waiting to discuss wether boss man wants cat or active radiator .
Ok gave myself a minor problem today, wasnt thinking about it , probably due to just trying to work without getting heat stroke lol. Long story short been a long time since i dealt with a bracket change and body bound bolts , dont have reamers for them need 3 different sizes so gonna have to do it the hard way oops, unless i can find reamer in stock local i doubt it lol.
Boss man got all the miles out of this air filter lol oops .
We just bought a truck with "a few problems" real cheap and an air filter that looked like that was found. Hopefully replacing the filter will clear up some of the problems and we got a good deal....
I serviced it last week ,he has an oil change place normally do it but fuel filter warning light has been on for a month. He said it made it better but it was still down on power and skipping a bit . He took off in it awhile ago hopefully it cured it ,this 17 duramax only has 40k on it. I think im going to get a set of his filters in stock at the shop , seems like a small airfilter for a diesel.
Boss man gave me the thumbs up on his way out of the office this evening he said it was like a new truck, so this air filter cured that problem hope yours cures your new purchases. Only pain in the butt was no parts houses had it i had to send someone up to the chevy dealer we use to get one .
Took a week but i got my .652 and .776 reamer today champion cutting tools from amazon sold by acme tools 100 bucks for one each.hopefully i can get this truck near wrapped up tommorrow as i have to put 2 knuckles on a mechanic truck also as grease worms seemed to have infested the kingpins and wore thru the bushings.
Oh happy late friday afternoon
IMO every piece of equipment must have a built-in clock because they all know exactly when 4:30pm on a Friday afternoon is...........
Wonder if it would help if i hooked up the laptop and reset date and time in ecm lol. Doubt it but i can dream. I try to just do pm's on saturday if i have any due that unfortunately hasnt worked out in several weeks . Kinda like when boss not owner says something about money and next day its 2000.00 dollars to fix a dump truck then everyday after that catastrophic crap keeps happening lol
And of course driver never noticed a thing, like smoke coming off the wheel or a nasty smell when walking back to truck from doughnut shop? I remember following a truck down a two lane country road years ago and the smell of burning brakes was unbelievable. No place to get past him and I really didn't want to be next to the wheel if it decided to leave. Lucky he did pull into a fuel station right across from the entrance to I-90. I pulled in and told him about the brake smell and he said he thought there was a problem. Then why the HELL didn't he stop five miles back and at least take a look? No! had to get to the coffee shop in case he was going to be there for some time!
This one noticed it . Inner bearing started the havoc did more damage then the last one that had an outer bearing fail. Got it fixxed and parked in the line today. If anything happens to that wheel end again we are going to be calling the axle surgeon or putting a new housing under it , this isnt the first time something has happened to that truck , just from observing all the scars.
mmmm toasty
I would've said more like crunchy........
Were there any threads left on the end of axle, in picture did not look too good?
Yeah it survived barely. Next time if there is one axle surgeon will be called in
Suck bucket upgrade.
I think i have officially seen it all on tarp motor wiring now .
Not sure what the problem is, that's a "cable clamp" isn't it?
Like a lot of the "bad repairs" I see here, I would have done that too, to get me out of a jam, I just would not leave it for the next guy to fix
That's a junk drawer dont fail me now repair right there I have done similar to finish the day that's kinda brave to leave it tho
All of you are correct , get out a jam yeah , but soon as that **** hit the yard i woulda had it fixxed correctly. Tape was old but not that old only the ends were crispy and brittle. Not sure if it was done before i started there or shortly after . Either way its not quite fixxed correctly but its 200 percent better then that was. I need to source some supplies from one of our vendors for fixxing those big wires proper.
Boss man decided to put the duals on , a good bath and some paint touch up and it will go down to his shop to sit with the rest of his collection
Front seat does not look too comfortable! Is it possible to split them apart and use the front as a "normal" tractor? Hate to be the guy who gets that rig stuck, don't think my Farmall BN would do much good at that point!
No it articulates no front wheels, it is driven from the rear .
I bet that is a pretty stout machine
I dont know what it is capable of but it sure sounds nice when its running
I realized that but make me wonder why it has the seat on the front unit with the shaft/linkage right in the middle. Don't think it would be a comfortable ride!
Keeps the battery for the pony motor covered up? Boss wanted it that way? I only did the complicated mechanical and electrical repairs the rear tractor battery system had me messed rite up till i found some good iinfo on how it worked.This baby has been modified a time or two , the rod is for the clutch that is the latest modification done to it previously it appears that the clutch was rope operated in the same way the front throttle is , when they made the solid linkage for the clutch they bent it over some and had to remove the steering wheel ,it was with the tractor when they brought it to the shop. No sitting on the front tractor at all unless your into that lol. I have rd around the parking lot on the floor pan when triing to bleed its abortion of a steering system which appears to also been changed up a few times in its life .
Did some online auction bidding today on some tools from an old local machine shop that shut its doors , if every thing is good i should have made out like a bandit for what i spent.
Well be sure to post some pictures when the new toys show up!
I will got alot of little stuff , bunch of die grinders so i can leave different bits in them and not change constantly,what i was really gunning for was the fifth wheel lock tester even though it is the old style one and a otc 3/4 drive torque wrench , have 158 bucks into those 2 items pluss i will have an extra cost with the torque wrench as it will be sent out not long after i get it .im ahead on just the fifth wheel tool i got it for 48 bucks they are near 300 new
Here is what i got and prices i think i did ok, first time auction buying anything for me , i wanted a few other things but i could have bought new for a few dollers more i wasnt falling into that trap
Took a long lunch and gathered up my auction buys the 2 gallon pump sprayer briggs and straton and misc stuff i got for a 1.25 most of that will end up in scrap pile
This is the misc stuff for 1.25
Used my unicorn wrench for 2nd time in 19 years
I havent sent the auction torque wrench out for calibration yet , but it does click and feels like we got around the 1500 lbsft mark. While i was at watco tools getting a new socket they got a nice 1 inch drive hydrualic doohickey but im sure its 5k or more .
I always cringe a bit when I see a torque multiplier in action. I know that a TM operated by someone who knows what they're doing is reasonably safe but I was always a bit twitchy with them, especially torqueing big loader axle bolts pulling 150ft.lbs. on a 35:1 multiplier. It used to make the reaction arm creak. I was glad when it was replaced by a HyTorc. Reminds me of the fatality to the young apprentice in Australia - whatever could have possibly gone wrong went wrong, and it was tooling that belonged to the Cat dealer. http://www.dmp.wa.gov.au/Documents/Safety/MSH_SIR_133.pdf
Ouch , we had one at the mack dealer i started out at it was a cat branded tm, not sure on ratio , 1/2 inch input 95 ftlbs was 1850 ftlbs output, we over torqued the camel back u bolts at that dealer using only oem u bolts they had no problems with the extra 350 lbs and never had u bolts get loose . That tm they had had the internal locking mechanism but we were told to never ever ever take our hands off our torque wrench incase it failed.
These are the feckers - stuff of nightmares. M36 anti-seized six ways to Sunday then tightened to 1150ft.lbs plus half a turn. Tight...….. occasionally even new bolts were known to break.
The ancient torque multiplier in our tool room has sheared its gears before and thrown a mechanic off a ladder (he was torquing a hydraulic hammer) I don’t like it at all. We have a HYTORC now
They make some pretty fancy torque multiplication tools now from pnuematic, battery and electric , plus the hytorc style cartridge style tools its a damn shame they all cost 5k and up. Even used on ebay the price would still be in the price range of shop supplied tool in my eyes. They should be on most mechanic trucks in our fields in my opinion , i truly hate having to use that 4:1 tm thankfully it usually only on mack rear u bolts but i hytorc unit would be so much less painfull lol
Have used one like walkerv show and also one of the Cat 16:1 with the built in ratchet/back stop. Was luck to never get hurt or come close but agree one has to be paying close attention at all times. We even had a working group leader take one like walkerv's and decide it would help break a bolt loose by driving it with an impact wrench. Bet you can imaging how the little gears in there liked that!
It’s much easier to justify the investment in a Hytorc when you’re assembling machines that cost in excess of $2 mill a pop.
Nige, What are you mining for such massive equipment?
About anything for mining is a million plus. At the landfill i worked at a cat 836k landfill compactor is just shy of a million. No matter what they are mining name of the game in that field is moving massive quanities of material as efficiently as possible whether its ore or over burden.
Didnt take any pictures of repair, bit did an engine oil cooler today on a c13 in a 345c excavator today was pretty straight forward and easy to do once the turbo was out of the way, probably took me longer then it should have but my face wouldnt stop leaking. This got caught just as it started to leak looks like one wash with cascade and a couple rinses will clean it up pretty quickly.
Are you still working with 836K's, or was that in a previous life.?
Previous life 8 years of corporate managment was all i could take . Im at a grading company now private family owned and run. I still have nitemares of triing to keep waste handling equipment running , there 836k extended warranty is up December 31 this year i heard they have had the engine out of it at least 2 times since i left a year and half ago.
Rowed that TM boat under Mack's a NUMBER of times, still sucks. Hytorq is the way to go these days.
I fully agree everytime i do one i look on ebay but never see the size cassette needed. I figure if i did get serious about it i could put a set up together for about 1500 to 2 grand if i really do some shopping on used stuff.
Oh boy this seems familier only ×2this time. Shop has a hand pump shiftable direction pump, think im gonna get to some ebay shopping and show boss man/ Owner. Im sure a good used high torque is gonna be cheaper then a higher ratio tm.
The more often you do the job, the easier it is to justify the investment in tooling. Show the boss man that fatality report where the torque multiplier killed the young apprentice and hit him up on the safety side at the same time.
Agree on using the "Safety Argument"! If management thinks you want a tool just so you don't have to sweat a bit they will stonewall you everytime. But if they think it will save having MSHA or OSHA come by to do a accident investigation and start writing violation reports the money might flow a lot faster!
Side bonus , it will come in handy on heavy equipment also.
Was told yesterday to replace an air compressor on a dumptruck , pretty much told him no . Single cylinder wabco system saver 318 not a big compressor to begin with. Pulled it in shop once lights got fixxed . Long story short replaced a leaking fan clutch and replaced a leaking dash valve bam truck builds air at an idle now . I knew it was a case of more air leaks then it had compressor for but some people dont want to listen , have 3 more small leaks to fix on chassis then im parking it out in the line . I think this is how grumpy mechanics are born when the superior comes off as a know it all , but mostly wont listen . I dont claim to know it all and never will i know my macks and refuse to let people that dont know have there way as much as i would have loved to throw a 1200 dollar compressor on it and say guess what it still dont dont build air now what.
Reminded me of a Sullair school I attended many years ago. Instructor told about a service call he was sent out to complaint was the two large Sullair compressors that supplied air to this factory were not working and needed to be repaired or replaced. As they would not shut down the factory on a work day he had to go there on a Saturday when the place was closed down. Started up one of the compressors and saw that it was not building up to full pressure. He then closed the valve on the outlet and it immediately dropped to the unloaded condition. It was obvious that the real problem was not lack of supply but way too much demand and considering nothing in the plant was, or should have been calling for air with the plant shut down it was simply a case of leaks. It did take some doing to convince the manager of this but in the end after a couple weekends of overtime fixing leaks they found out they could run the plant on one of the compressors where before even two would not keep up. I think he said that just the savings of electricity by shutting off one compressor paid for the labor to fix the leaks in a few months and after that it was money in the bank!
I have an actuall trailer cord inline tester but i find it to be a pain and hard to see the tiny leds when lit. So i came up with this quick this morning with a bunch of illegal light that wont be going on trucks ,much easier to see and puts a bit more load on then leds for those really crappy wires that will light an led but not an incandescent bulb.
I actually set up a Mock Trailer to plug a cord into, at least one hard lamp for each function, had seven round pin, seven flat pin, four and six pin and flat connectors on it. Was in a old plastic tool box I got at a sale and converted, long since self destructed.
I have thought about doing that never have though. I whipped this up quick because it was cold outside and wanted enough load to make it mess up with the tractor sitting in the warm shop. Cab harnesses are getting sketchy on the fire wall in the engine bay , but is to be expected on a 99 mack . I apparently caused the problem last time it was hooked to a different trailer, I inadvertently plugged the running light relay in backwards , and then while i was digging into the power distribution panel i found the cause of cab roof/trailer clearance light relay triing to melt the pdc box down it was a from the factory wiring mistake on top of someone putting a 60 amp maxi where a 30 amp goes . Truck normally get run about 6 miles a year depending on how much straw gets used on jobs , it is fixxing to go back into semi active duty hauling chicken litter till there is enough in all the fields. So i have to make it all good for that.
Small plastic or even old tin tote box works well for this. Add a battery or 12v delivery system with a short cord can turn on and off can use to test trailers without a truck.
My who is attempting to start a small trucking company didnt take a picture or draw out where the wiring went when he pulled out 2 junk batteries. So he calls me to sort it out. Mission accomplished but a return visit is going to be needed after he gets it road worthy all the batt cables are garbage.
Ooopsie!!
This air compressor was having weird symptoms, took me a minute to diagnose , but now i see what happened and why it was doing what it was . Mack even had a cylinder head kit on the shelf. Would have changed compressor but it is near new but way timed out on warranty, this is one the ex project mack that was apart for like 3 plus years .
Here be the next mack ouch, pulled the keys once i saw it
Zowie!!
That’s a ***...!!
Yeah that is how good this fleet has been taken care off before i came here. I have been here almost 2 years now im still about 3 years behind lol. Slowly this catosrophic wear is getting under control.
Don't beat yourself up. With one pair of hands you can only do so much. Look at it as being job security............
Damn man, nothing like knowing you're days will be busy and full.
Oh yes for sure , after i started and went searching thru parts accumulations , brakes became my main priority shelf full of ****** linings have them all used up now thankfully, no s cams or cam kits only a few junk aftermarket slacks and not a new drum or used ones anywhere i knew i had a job ahead of me . Trailer brakes this year is on My list especially the ones at the farm they need love big time .
Just slip a new bushing in and coat it with Lock-tite to be safe and put in on the line for Monday at 6:00AM! And who gave your permission to cut those U-bolts? Just grind the ends down and weld them back together and don't over tighten them or they will break at the welds!
Saw this old girl leaving the local tractor supply this afternoon , amazes me how well sheet metal holds up down here in the south vs back home in the snow belt.
You need to come to AZ 25 year old vehicles not a spot of rust I dont see how anyone up north can afford new vehicles every 5 to 10 years Tho on another note paint can die fast here
You mean rust belt. I'm sour about it, having always lived in Michigan but travelling all over for work. The body on my 11 year old F-350 is junk. Bed is rotted horribly, cab corners starting to go, etc. Mechanically, very sound though. I'm in west Texas and 30 year old trucks look new compared to mine. I think I might import my next truck from here.
Yes rust belt im from michigan myself sanford mi. I was amazed when i moved to nc first car i saw was an old zephyr all original baby blue paint worn but not a spec of rot on her
Those old international's were particularly bad about rusting out. Its really rare to see one without rot. We have pretty good conditions where I'm at also, far enough south for no salt on the roads, far enough north for no hurricanes.
This one isn't any of my doings , but this was a system 1 under carriage that the cat house said was impossible to convert, along with the place that does our tracks. Well it was converted by some people up in the mountains.
Damn! almost sounds like "The Garden of Eden" at least for cars and trucks!
Sanford is about 2 hours north of me. I'm about 40+/- miles SW of Lansing.
Is that a back blading special ? Bob
Naw it's just parked in front of another dozer
Look at the tracks. Bob
Oh shoot i didnt even notice that lol . Oh boy i better go tell someone about that
Having spent 99% of my time working on rubber tired front end loaders and trucks I would have never noticed that till Bluox said something!
Same . Only time i pay attention to track is if i am working on them which is rare the macks keep me plenty busy
Really need to turn that around!!
Grouser to the front.
After looking at more photos, I see the usual set-up is grouser to the front. For a wheeled person's edification… Why ? Is it to keep debris out of the pads? What if there are multiple grousers per pad?
The pads are on the right way they only go on one way. The chains are on backwards . Bob
Correct The lead edge of shoe rolls down the heel rides up Over the next lead edge These on reverse do multiple things, dig with heel as drive forward into Whatever material running on, the grouser makes no contact until shoe is almost fully on Ground the stress on the grouser not transferred down to shoe face and rail but up against Lead edge region of shoe. Chains on reverse runs other issues with pin to bushing wear as is similar to running in reverse all day, loaded. Detrimental in all respects
No the chains are right the machine is backwards!
We flipped the tracks yesterday , probably a good thing we did the masterlink bolts werent very tight.
Have now wonder about the bolts holding the pads on as well!
Crossed my mind to be honest, but i have 1 bay with a mack project in it that is only in first couple phases of repair/rebuild it back up to roadworthy standards, and with the rain i have been cycling all other write ups thru my other bay , meanwhile putting a cat 259 back together that i had about completely torn apart finding a massive draw in the electrical system so that it can go back to the chicken houses in about 5weeks for total house clean outs in all 10 houses. Plus i have a mack ch waiting outside that is another project to make roadworthy again. And i found a bad clutch in a dump truck today after i adjusted clutch i couldnt get it on gear, used my wear guage on it and its totally worn out , had to take almost all the adjustment back out of it leaving maybe 1/2 inch free travel to get it to fully disengage, in thinking it has a warped something going on in it . Good thing that one is sorta one of the spares. So im not gonna stress about those pad bolts the lead guy probably wont listen anyways he had no intentions of flipping the tracks when i brought it to his attention, so i brought it to owners right hand man and let him bring it up to lead guy also.
I hope whoever tightened the bolts put loads of anti-seize on the threads and under the heads as well, otherwise they might still work loose.
Well sometime you can only do so much, in that case I think I would send those in power an email note mentioning that suggestion to have a back-up in case there is a problem down the road! C.Y.A.!
2006 c7500 cat c7 engine . Service due light reset procedure. Key off brake pedal fully depressed, key to run fully depress and release accel pedal 3 times within 10 seconds , then key off, start truck do it again if it didnt work the firsy time . Posting this mostly as a reminder for myself that is some hard info to find when you dont have an owner manual in any of the 4 Chevy trucks we have .
If you’re anything like me you file a copy of the procedure “somewhere obvious” and then next time you need it you’ve completely forgotten where you put it....
Thats why i posted it here, even if i have to go thru all my pages i know its here. As hard as it was to find i will probably remember it for a little while . I need to hook up to the cat side of that and see if that is what turns the light on and what parameters its set for . Truck has alot of road time but it is a fuel truck so it idles a fait bit also
Yep, walk around muttering "I put it right where I could find it" At 80 I spend a lot of time searching for things that " go into hiding", blame it on UFO activity.
I just blame my wife for moving it
I suppose you might just as well do that. If you're anything like me you blame the wife for everything else that goes AWOL so why should one more thing matter..?
And here I thought I'd get better at things like that, as I got older.......
Good idea, mine blames me for everything. About time to return the favor. Ed
Anytime questioned by the wife just state Yes is all my fault and leave the room. She seems to be tiring of that.
Whoever invented the term "Golden Years" is a stupid SOB
My wife actually moves my stuff on me . She can tell me she moved but dont know where too. Gotta clean out my nite stand a few times a year ,and i dont put anything in it . My fuel truck service engine light came on after 550 miles gonna have to steal the laptop with et on it and see how it is setup when i get a chance.
Wife repeatedly tells me she never touches my stuff, watched her move my stuff and avoid her pile of mess as hers was monumental opposed to mine. So awaited her leave to work, rearranged her piles of 'Stuff' without using hands, moved with feet, a broom and dustpan, even a vacuum head. She a week later was stumble fumbling around ranting of MY Touching her stuff where I looked her STRAIGHT on and told her "Never Laid a Hand on her Stuff". She looked puzzled for a minute then I asked if she may have accidentally put that Stuff away, she went and looked then apologized!!! The piles are in process of resuming growth and another round of game on is about to occur. This tactic goes WAAAYY Back to when I temp foreman'd a shop in San Leandro for Feld. Was in a rental house, trash pickup was every Tuesday early morning, and every Monday evening the cans went out where a local would let his Sheppard loose to crap anywhere but their yard. Dog would knock down a number of cans to loot whatever was edible then we would have to pickup the stuff next morning or trash truck would just pass by. Had a Wrist Rocket Slingshot, had access to LARGE Ball bearing balls, got pretty good with it out to thirty or so feet. Well got mad and sat awaiting said dog, was gonna sting that SOB really hard when dumped my can, time came, dog out front can on ground and I drew back in a open door aiming at Front Shoulder. As SOON as turned it loose, Dog's head snapped to look AT ME, bearing hit him SQUARE in the forehead and he dropped like a bad habit. Well I scurried out, dog was DEAD, skull crushed between his eyes, plopped the carcass in my trash can just MOMENTS before trash truck arrived. Trash dumped, truck moved on and for several days heard neighbor calling for his pup, saw me in yard and asked If I saw him. Looked him straight on and stated last Time saw his dog he was in my trash and we both went back to houses!!!! Did NOT Lie to him!
I used to save carrier bearing balls for people i knew with slingshots . Dog had bad luck at least it was quick.
For sport I used to sit on the balcony of my apartment in Chile with an air rifle and ping any street dog (and there were loads of them) that came along the street rooting in trash cans. As an accompaniment to a cold beer after work it was quite relaxing, therapeutic even. I could imagine that the mutt was one of my co-workers who’d pi$$ed me off that day.
Really did not want it dead Just to sting it The sound that ball made when hit was gut wrenching. Had to pop it out of the divot in his skull. Still have it in my tool box as a reminder. None of the neighbors ever knew but were glad he was gone. The owner got a different job and moved in a few months.
Don’t feel hard about it. The good thing is that the dog probably didn’t feel a thing, despite the fact that the owner probably deserved the bullet more than the dog did.....
I was recounting DMiller's story to one of my sons and he came up with a good response - The owner is responsible for controlling a dog so whatever transgressions the dog makes the punishment for them should be handed out to the owner.
It reminds me of sign that was in the front yard of house not far form my daughters house. It said "J&B Landscaping ran over our dog." How stupid is that ? The blame is on the owner. I felt badly for the person that ran over it.
Too right...... Someone should have taken a permanent marker and scrawled below it "What was your ***kin dog doing on the highway.?"
A few years back we had a dog black lab mix and as our house sits about 100 feet back form the road we often just let him out the back door to go do his morning business. Dog always went in the 4 acre back yard and would come back in a few minutes. Well this one time a guy in a car pulled in the drive and said "I think I hit your dog" sure enough it was Jake! The guy worked with my ex-wife and he offered to pay for the dog and even tried to find one for us. We said "It's not your fault and more than likely Jake had been chasing a deer." We also thought to ask if there was damage to his car. Where he was hit was in an area where we often see deer tracks in the snow or mud. That was the last time we let a dog run free around the house. When we did get a new dog we had a 40X50 foot chain link fence area put in so we could let them have a little time off leash but otherwise always have dogs on leash outside! And now days on this section of road I can't tell you how many times we have had a car pass us in a no passing zone while we were running at or a little above the speed limit. Actually just happened to me yesterday while coming home from the city. Just waiting for some jerk to pass a stopped school bus as less than a 1/4 mile down the road are two houses across from each other with kids!
A rare facebook market place good tool score 26 of 39 genuine otc bearing nut sockets unused so no misuse 450 bucks.
Actually a Nice Set.
I thought so to only 13 missing if you had the actuall full set display boards. I likely have most of the missing ones but they are not otc ,and where the rachet square is are nowhere near as thick as the otc and get messed up pretty easy. Im pleased with this purchase i get tired of having to get creative or fix the worn out ones at work that people have used impacts on them .
I have an odd few I used regularly, did not see a need for a full set most times.
Same, but i have always wanted the full set for just in case or tool addiction not sure which one lol ended up being 2 duplicates in there i still got a pretty good deal i think . 2 of the full sets with display boards is around 1200 bucks
So sometimes this works on ac fittings stu ck to aluminum condenser threads sometimes it dont . Today was a good day it worked
What worked? tapping with a punch? It's March in the Carolinas, so I am about to deal with this, too.
Yeah had to jam a small socket behind it and just pecked it to death. If i dont try this and a 200 pound gorrilla tightened it it takes the threads with it everytime. Like i said sometimes it works sometimes it dont , i have bad luck with mack ac compressors not much i can do to those to make them come off unless someone with a brain tightned them previously. Not sure why people feel the need to overtighten ac lines so bad . Tight doesnt make the o ring seal any better then snugg. That was my first of the season in nc . Have 3 more rite behind it but of course i ran out of r134 on that one , and no one can find there license to be able to get a fresh 30 lb can so i had to run to napa and get one can just to finish that truck off.
Very similar to the brainless than put Pipe Dope on SAE Threaded flare fittings, then try to set torque with a Pipe Assistant..
Oh yeah gotta love pipe dope on a jic fitting, same with stupid over tightened orfs fittings ,
So my mack that kept shutting down and died on me yesterday as mentioned in tiny's thread crickets . I found one rubbed spot on rear bank ,common wire of the eup harness section . Cleaned all eup terminals and posts put that harness back together after a little protection was applied to messed up wire. Checked all power and grounds and data link wiring at eecu and vecu, all checked out ok. Plugged and and unplugged all connections on both ecms a few times to scrape away any possible oxidation and be sure it was getting good connections. Cleared fualts ran truck in yard for 3 hours or so drove it around yard now and again all seemed good , either that bad rub on the wire was messing with the 20 year old computers badly newer trucks with vmac3 never seemed to throw codes like that when i had an eup wire get damaged or it was truly a bad connection at one of them , i was getting all 6 eup codes both data links were faulting out and power failure codes to both ecms also . What ever was actually wrong seems to be fixxed . II guess i will find out monday , i will be starting it dead cold in the morning and monitoring it for just a little bit just to nake sure all seems ok still.
Well no mechanic fairy's came in sunday to put this one back together for me lol.
They probably showed up and got confused....
Piece of cake just gotta quit getting interrupted, i coulda had it done today but ended up chasing a dumptruck with flat steer tire and a pick up truck that blew a brake hose . I did get the new knuckle on and steering arms reinstalled but that was it
walker, Not sure if you would get lucky like I did a few years ago. At the shop we had a good assortment of those OTC sockets and it was a pain digging through cardboard boxes trying to find the one I needed. So I called OTC to see how much they would charge for a pair of the display boards so I could hit the boss up for buying them. Well I must have called at the right time and got the right guy on the phone. When I told him what I was looking for and that we had almost a complete set he said where do you want them shipped and he said he'd send them out the next day free of charge! Worth a phone call! You don't have to tell him where you bought them!
I might try that of i ever build my own shop for now i have them jammed into my service truck, i would never put them on display at work fricken people will always put an impact on them for some reason. Prolly a good thing im the only person working on trucks .
Apprentice marks , in a hurry spring shop paid by job, or just didnt give a darn ? From what i saw doing the kingpins on this truck im steering towards total dumbass.
Now that i have truck done ,king pins and rear suspension rebuild was definitely a dumbass that previously worked on this truck. Both pivot centers full of apprentice marks, torch marks on suspension caps, king pin seal put in backwards on bottom on top of kingpins seals were installed on top of the needle bearing also backwards. Smh
those aren't "apprentice marks" those are "grease distribution grooves"! I would think you would know that!
Yeah lol to bad its on the wrong side of the bronze, maybe thats incase the bushing starts moving .lol
My buddies truck 88 pete with a 3406b . All 4 govenor flyweights got broken.
4mg27749 serial number looking up parts for the govenor 1st arrangment is all the new updated parts ? The next arrangment rite below it shows the original as built stuff ? It shows the original weights part numbers that i took out . The bulletin i read shows new updated weights and races those are in the first arrangment , cat is so confusing at times . If the new weights and needle bearing races are better why would they even still have availibility on the old stuff? I can get new or old at local store in stock.
Cat 4mg 3406b in a peterbuilt . Is the electric shut off solenoid polarity sensitive ? Got carrier and flyweights changed out decided i would work at putting govenor back together till skeeters started needling me , 4 hour later it runs and idles now but wont shut of with key.
Figured it out sis is pretty vague on installing the shut down solenoid. Have to put vise grips on manual shut down shaft and hold it in full off while installing solenoid, I figured it was something dumb i did .
Did cat stop putting stuff into sis before a certain year? Just wondering was watching one of my subscriptions on utube and could not pull up any info using the data plate info on engine or gen.
Depends what the product line is. A lot of earlier (pre-1970) equipment isn't on SIS, it's hit and miss.
very interesting` could almost smell the smoke
Three cars triing to flag him down and 5 miles of road before he finally stopped into a gas station side lot .front trailer axle Rh brakes on fire literally, this is all i found on the lh side. Emergency hose to front axle damaged . Smh
I'm just glad he didn't turn his head to the side and catch a glimpse of those shiny things on the side of the cab. It might have scared him and caused him to wreck....
Starting on the farm trucks early this year now that they are done using them till harvest. I think i found the noise they were starting to hear last harvest. Which fully explains why the wheel seal started leaking.
Damn...that there is ugly. Ed
Thousands of miles left in those bearings - well at least there are if you’re a farmer....
Ya think i coulda just readjusted it then lol. Hub was moving when i was taking the tires off Last year i went thru the front end of this truck looks like the back half is getting the attention this year . He farms 2 hours away from the home farm also , this truck is the most used. It makes quite a few trips thru the year.
Damn straight, This younger generation and their throw everything, everything must be new ideals. Why I was just fixing my 6ft slasher (brushhog) and thought these gears have at least another thousand hours in them, why they should outlast the slasher deck which has lots of "lightening" holes in it. So back together they go.
Yep those things some see as pits are actually oil retention pockets, too smooth a surface and the rollers will squeeze out the oil while with the retention pockets the oil will stay in the bearing!
Them darn metal-eating chipmunks strike again ..........
Well the oil pocket retention system creates an awfull lot of glitter that the seal doesnt like , maybe i need to drop a couple big magnets into the hub between the races and let it eat lol. To bad i had to torch the inner bearing off i cant reuse it now .
Metal eating chipmunks. Ha, thanks Nige, hadn't heard that one. Are those critters related to the grease worms that eat pins and bushings?
just turn the radio up a little more
I'm sold on the "oil retention" pockets! It's know wonder bearings eventually fail...they were never engineered with "oil retention" pockets to begin with! Regards, Bob
That is a safety feature to let you know they are still going round and round.
My buddy back home in michigan started on a little project allis chalmers hd 16, pigeon products sprocket liners.
uh, how long does he expect those to last?
They are not pipe its an alloy. He paid scrap price for machine, his intended use is to hual it to the upper peninsula in 3 days and clear of his land for a cabin then sell it or scrap it, he would rather weld on new rims but lacks tooling and know how to remove them from the machine. 200 hrs is expected usage then he is done .
Hmm he found a new problem tonight , he really shoulda serviced this thing and checked stuff out before he planned on moving it up north on the 10th, im pretty sure its been in his yard for close to a year.
he is making good ground when he is done using it. im gonna have to get some pictures after he is done using it to see if they really hold up.
Triing to do engine work is really a pain in the butt when your the only guy working on trucks , just about the time you get in the groove of things and all your tools are sorted and cleaned off something happens and i gotta go fix it. Took me 3 days to change injectors in a mxs c15 acert, im not really keen on doing the over head on those either . I came up with my own procedure that is probably what most people do once they do one the first time . I did the exhaust manifold joint seals to what a pain , i wont do the front one again unless the top turbo is off.valve cover base also got resealed and new wiring harnesses installed also those werent alot of fun either , om glad i didnt install the cable ties untill it was back on engine and all was back together or i woulda had to cut them all off and reposition near every one .
Always on a friday. Stole a hub assy off another trailer just to get this one dumped and back to the yard ,axle is toast will take a picture of it if i remember.
that might sqeek just a little
Grease worms have been busy!
Wash it off good and mix up some epoxy and assemble before it sets. Monday morning take it apart and grease it up and it should be good to go! And stay out of NY with that truck!
I think it had oil not sure hard to tell when its gotten that hot and a cb call to the driver to tell him his axle was on fire pretty good sign it had some oil. This is second case this year with drivers not checking mirrors when people are obviously triing to get there attention.
Finally took a picture of the axle end . Currently waiting on the 2nd new axle cuz meritor themselves aparently dont know how to give correct part numbers. Took alot of cutting torch and grinding on the side of a highway to even get a hub on it to get it dumped and back to the yard.
That’ll buff right out!
Was personally thinking a little epoxy and a strategic filing should put it right back to service!!
Lol no filing there is still bearing metal imbedded in the spindle file glides across it like its got no teeth lol. Im still surprised i got it looking that good on the side of the highway. The grass is still dead their from torch use.
Is the feather a essential part of the repair
Cant get away from them i blow out radiators almost everytime i have a truck in the shop, boss man has 10 chicken houses , i recently had one of their trucks at the shop i will be chasing feathers for months.
Get him to trade the chicken houses in for cat houses. More money and a lot more FUN
Got the wrong axle back to fleetpride. New axle is in hubs on , one tire put on to get it back outside ( shop is small). Need gas and welding wire and some new hardware to finish it , and i have to decide what slack adjusters I'm going to use. I have been using mostly haldex lately as that is what is oem on the macks and the few peterbilts we have.
Still havent figured out why i like this kind of grunt work so much . Better get back to rowing to torque spec.
Sucks just thinking about it A Hytorq takes all that grunt away
Yeah i know i drool at them everytime i go into the local tool/shop supply house. If i was persistent enough and patient enough i could probably buy the right size cassette and and the bits and bobs needed off of ebay for about 2k maybe. The only crappy part i find is when i have to replace u bolts this one got 2 new center pivots.
It's fun torching u-bolts-ker-pop. If doing a bunch of suspension work the older one gets a air powered torque gun is a must.
Yeah those arent none to cheap either, last time i was doing a camel back it was a rain day for the grading company . I had volunteers lol, they started taking turns when they realized it sucked . When I cut a mack u bolt i can tell if they were torqued properly, it usually makes the truck jump even though its in the air on Jack stands.
Not sure if I really miss that fun part of the job!
I have another one too do soon as I'm done with this truck you could come down where its still warm and volunteer for a day to make sure you miss it or not
Just take your arthritis meds and some icy hot with you, you will find it's invigorating. When you get home make sure and check yourself for a hernia.
Ooohhh - there's a mental image everyone needs.
Well it's better to have that mental image than a hernia, besides there easy to find and diagnose and the next thing you know your a MD.
Do like me, have a double and get a discount. One side well developed other just born.
I didn’t realize that I had a double until I had the consult with the surgeon who was going to do my “single” hernia. He joked “well now you get two for the price of one”
Had to go to one of the farm fields the other day to replace a hose on the excavator that has the stump buster on it and see they uncovered more antiques that was once wooded area. I should go take pictures of all the junk out there.
I have you all beat i have had 5 hernias. I wish i could say after getting them fixed i lived happly ever after but your never like new agin.
Keep a eye out for Jimmy Hoffa!
Wrong state.
Wrong state-how would anyone know? Hell they could have kicked him out of a plane over a Idaho tater patch.
If i had to guess he is either at the bottom of one of the great lakes or his remains possibly in an italian pig farm . Thats just a guess but i have met the man that was suppossed to meet hoffa the nite he dissapeared, and was probably at one of his grandsons wedding , i have never seen so many unmarked black goverment vehicles in one spot before.
Todays afternoon project , work with the hired welder to get this thing out of the woods. Then it will go to shop for boom removal and repair.
Holy cow! That's pretty damned impressive. Was it operator abuse or did something come crashing down on it?
Cracked across the top and part way down each side for unknown amount of time, backstory on that statement lead mechanic/ boss of mechanics quit 2 weeks ago, now all we hear is we told you know who about it awhile ago. I since have made a master list of neglected repairs and inbetween blown hoses and other emergencies we are working on said list.im triing to get my truck stuff caught up so i can get out in the field and take care of a few ac jobs and some weird electrical issues.
I worked for an outfit that would tell you to keep an eye on it when ever any body called about a problem with a machine. They didn’t fix it till you couldn’t use it anymore. A smartass operator went out and bought something like this to stick on problem area. Owner came out and asked what was going on (didn’t like the answer). Things started getting fixed after that.
Looks to me like it started at the welds of the hold down block for the hydraulic lines.
Pretty much . It was cracked across the top for a good bit and started working down the sides till it said no more. We got it sorta plated together so we could get it tracked up to entrance of the farm , soon as it gets to shop i will bust it apart and call the old man back to come put it back together .
Were they factory original or add on to add more hydraulic line ?
It has auxilary lines on it all over not sure what it used to run, its all aftermarket stuff so it was added on by someone. Im going to junk a bunch of stuff when the boom comes off.
Day off project got one more to teardown ,gotta make one good running 350 outta 2. Block on floor is my own future project. One on stand is for parts but i may rebuild it as it looks real good , engine yet to tear down is missing an 1/8 inch of one rod journal may not even touch it other then the heads.
I betcha that when the blocks were added to the boom for the attachment lines someone though it was a good idea to weld across the boom instead of only welding lengthwise. Do I win a cookie..?
Be interesting to see some close ups of the affected area where the blocks were attached.
Wasnt paying attention it will be back in the yard monday sometime i hope. I was just triing to get it out of a bad spot . Was on a hill on a side slope. Will take some pictures when it gets there.
Take photos - lots of photos. We like photos of stuff, especially when it's broke ...........
especially if its not my stuff that's broke.
Here's a photo of some broken ****. Will this do until walker gets photos.
Not broken but I was impressed
Gotta be patient low boy guy is moving a couple jobs and paving crew around .
Ok here ya go , not sure how good the pictures are but it cracked along an old repair that definitely wasnt fully penetrated. We pulled it apart this morning in about 6 hrs between 2 guys , 3rd guy showed up for last bit of it and boom removal, we managed it with our service trucks but really wished there was another excavator in the yard.
Well I'm not a welder but know I would find out who fixed it last and make sure he doesn't get the job this time! Maybe Nige can offer some information on a repair like that, don't think my little 120 volt wire feed MIG is going to handle that!
(IC weld )on YouTube repaired one, check it out
I used to work at a demo company they broke at least one boom and a stick or 2 a year when the in house weld shop was done you barely could tell it was repaired. Hard sayyen when or who attempted this last weld job its been retired from the grading side for along time. Welder coming monday morning now that it is off and stripped down he will decide whether its fixed or replaced. Iron peddlers have 2 booms in stock down the road if we replace it.
What brand of machine was that broken boom mounted on?
Cat 330bl
It's just another broken Cat boom then. The placement of the break is what I've commonly seen in the past. Usually the crack shows up to start with as a spider line of rust that starts in the upper corner and runs both directions, across the top and down the side. The break didn't happen all at once. It's been insidiously growing over some months. There were product bulletins out for years and on multiple models about checking for cracks. It's good practice not to weld across a boom. If you have to weld something on like a tube clamp, you should weld in line with the boom. I wouldn't hazard a guess if that had anything to do with this failure. I've seen enough of them to say it was more likely a design or quality issue. At the dealer I was working for, they didn't bother trying to fix something that went that far. I don't know the availability of a used boom, so you might have no choice but to fix it.
I have 2 available if need be at iron peddlers 20 minutes from the shop. Owner really doesnt like them after a few issues. We still use them but its rare, he closed the acct so we have to take a check now. I think he would rather give his money to other people. But welder will check it out monday and tell him yay or nay. Im hoping for nay so i can get a boom back on it this week and back out clearing stumps.
1st two picture are of a trailer in the yard. 2nd picture are of an identical trailer i improved alot.
Whats is it going in ?
My buddies pickup truck that has no money this is gonna be a serious scab a hual project. I did just pick up a 400 sbc to play with in my 78 nova till i have a shop and totally rebuild the car and build a blower engine for it . I will rebuild the 400 proper with a mild cam.
I have helped alot of buddys. A so called buddy has a Dodge pickup he came buy the shop and it wasnt idling very good i thought for a cheap quick fix i would try and turn the idle up but it had a cover that needed drilled out to get to the screw i did this and for over a year its been working ok. He got it in his head now that i did something that has messed up the Throttle body. The other day it wouldnt start i went and hauled it back to shop and replaced the crank posisson censor that got it running now he says its makeing a noise that we caused.
Time to ban him from the property. I have no patience with that class of human (Install a muffler, later alternator quits, your fault)
Dealt with those, stopped dealing with those.
Forget which shop I was at, think it was the place that worked on one of the companies truck cranes, large P&H. Well service manager was shaking his head about problem he was having with the head manager in the state for our company. Seems this shop had fixed something on the crane and now a completely different part of it was causing problems. This (mis)manager from the company I worked for was pulling the "But you just had it in the shop and said it was fixed BS!" That guy was the major reason I retired the day I turned 65! No way I could stand to deal with his BS for one more day. He was one of those idiots who could not pour **** out of a boot if the instructions were written on the heel! But simply because he was friends with someone in even higher management he got his position.
It’s not what you know it’s who you blow.
Last I knew the guy our pain in the butt worked under, all puns intended, had his office in Allentown/Easton area.
Got my 400 sbc tore down , all the rods are number stamped, so unless gm did that in 1980 its been touched before . It is a low mileage stock bore block but # 8 cylinder has enough water damage in it im going to get it to a machine shop see what the other 7 holes should clean up and order pistons and have this hole sleeved.
is yours a 2-bolt main or a 4-bolt main block? on some sbc engines, i've seen some rods stamped and some not. don't know the reason
2 bolt, its been so long since i have been into a presumably untouched engine , i know the pan had been off for sure at one time in its life .
Rod and main change out while i got the oil pan off to replace gasket in former bosses service truck cummins 8.3 isc with rod studs instead of bolts what a pain in the ass getting the caps off .
Removing the top main bearings, one must be careful. Those use plastic nylon piston coolers that install through the main bearing {block housing bore}. Sometimes when removing the upper bearing the piston coolers will slide down blocking the top main bearing from rolling in place. If that happens-it's engine pull time. Rodeo City here we come.
I hope that doesn't happen.
I remember the "B" series had lots of broken rod bolts if you didn't replace them every time you took one loose. Is something that needs some thought on those rod studs?
I havent gotten to the mains yet, i will have to look at those closer this is a tier 4 interim engine .
Reminds me of the Last Thermodyne I was gazing up into as it dripped in my eyes, take rod cap off, push rod/piston Up out of the way and before had hands away was BACK down seated on the crank. Rings were TOTALLY Crap Shot, would not EVEN hold the pistons and rods up in the bores, and the old guy just wanted a set of R&Ms put in.
Would have been better with M&M's.
I'm not even gonna think about it this poor peterbilt service truck has been used and abused by everyone that had it. Im gonna use it as a spare service truck while i work on mine or the other guys untill such time that another field tech is needed.
Macks are the worst they can sit for weeks with the pan off and soon as you crack something free they drown your butt with oil this one wasnt terrible its been sitting a week with the pan off and it seems most of the crank has dripped out. Bottom main wore thru top layer and is into the really shiny layer , upper rods wore thru three layers and just getting the copper underlayment showing thru ,bottom rod bearings show sign of coolant damage probably happened before it had a programming change to the ecu. It was time for the rods to be changed at minimum
Do like some do change the bottom mains.
Doesnt look like i will have a problem
cummins finally woke up.
Dang, that engine looks too clean need to work on an old Detroit V71!
There is one 1977 brigadier in the farm fleet that has an 8v71 , it takes a week to get hands clean after oil change.
Took me almost a year after my final driptroit to see clean hands
More clean engine parts for my project
OK I have a Cummins isx truck engine question. I don't have a manual on these and wondering how many special tools are absolutely required to take off and reinstall a cylinder head if needed. I got a possible dropped valve or broke piston or something making a terrible noise with a dead miss ,raw diesel smoke out the stacks and alot of puffing vapor out the oil fill tube .
Ok a have a john deere 8400t distraction at the moment , I am waiting for parts on my isx cummins anyways .
I cant remember this for the life of me and have to dig back in here evertime i service this truck . Just got to remember its almost like a chevy car reset
Well i guess i get to learn about these finally, we just got two brand new mack quad axle dumps , they have air disk all the way around including the lift axles .
Good Luck
You will love those-that's what the manufacture always spouts. Those look like Bendix, have to remove air can to get to adjuster. Have a caliper go bad and eat a rotor-$1,250 minimum. Better rig your self a support on a floor jack for removing hub and rotor. I'll post a photo of what I have.
Meritor calipers appears to have an adjustor under a rubber cap , still know absoluting nothing about these , im hoping there is some service info on mack site as i have access to that .
My first taste of Air Disc Brakes, a Airport Fire Control and Tanker truck. Tandem all wheel drive, all six wheels, believe were Bendix, been almost forty years ago and trash back then.
Well if they are Bendix maybe this would be of some use to you: https://www.bendix.com/media/docume..._literature/bulletins/SD-23-7541_EN_009~1.pdf Or check here: https://b2bendix.com/US/en/USD/docu...cType=Service+Data+Sheets&docLanguage=English The second link has information on SB-6 AND SB-7 AIR DISC BRAKE Just to let you know I have 0 experience with air disks other than some Cat ones with air over hydraulic master cylinders!
Im about 99 percent sure this is what is on these trucks . Looks fairly simple untill i have a major failure then its just going to be costly as truck shop stated., i also need to go online and find the manuals for the lift axles they didnt even send an operation book for them in the trucks which should have recommended air pressure settings and such so i willl just download and print them so i have a paper copy to go with my other lift axle books and an electronic copy in the shop laptop.
Which is nothing more than a copy of Bendix design. Don't bother buying the tooling to rebuild a caliper, The tools are expensive and labor intensive-It comes down to a Caliper swap out. Average time to change a wheel seal and rotor with total parts clean up 2 hours per-corner-In my fleet I actually do more disc brake work than 90% of dealers. But all our tractors are going back to drum brakes, Disc simply are not cost effective. I have 80 53' three axle trailer that are all disc when it comes time to change them out it's going to cost on average $9,000 per trailer depending on how many calipers need to be changed. 6 corners of drum brakes-complete takes 1.5 hrs and $1,000.
The fact is you don't want disc on a drop axle-don't know why yours are spec'ed that way. Really where discs work well is on the steer axle with drum on drop and drive. That's how most out here on the left coast spec them now-after a long learning curve.
Biggest problem with disc on drives-or duals, the rotor is tucked inside that inside wheel at lower speeds the cooling air flow is zip. The rotor just continues to build heat especially in freeway stop and go where high sudden air applications are common because of brake checks by other vehicles. New rotor thickness is 44M, minimum is 36 to 37M. The thinner the rotor gets the faster it heats. New rotors come with a shoulder on both sides as a indicator, when the shoulders are gone basically the rotor is a done deal. There are trucks all over the U.S. freeways with defective disc brakes-Reason, No one knows what they are dealing with and the other is cost--Runner till she drops.
No clue boss man sent one of the new to us 2019 macks to the dealer and told salesman he wanted 2 trucks identical to that one . Guess they missed that it had drum brakes all the way around . If no foundation repairs are needed i do drums and shoes stupid fast without even trying , im not looking forward to inboard mounted rotor replacments at all. Your jack fixture looks good i will fab one up when the time comes.
Todays fun , finished redecking the lowboy and made a custom countersink bit
Nice looking deck work. Mike, that is a slick fixture for an ugly job.
Normally we just have random sized oak and have to rip it and trim it ,the guy that cut the wood this time actually measured stuff and planned out the board widths the goal was for an actuall clean install and is probably the best one we have done since it was a new trailer .the counter sink was just icing and the owner of the company really like it .
On my low boy the previous owner replaced the deck with apitong. He filled all the countersinks with roofing tar to keep the water from puddling.
I did apitong on the company trailers. The old oak was fall through the deck rotten. I got to use my #8 baliey plane to straighten things out. I like the apitong and the off-cuts are some serious blocking pieces.
We save white oaks when we do clearings and have them cut for us . Our lowboy has plates under the wood so even when it rots off its not to big of a deal . The wood we just took off was about half rotten when we put it on and it lasted about a year and a half this stuff was just cut it should last awhile longer .
that oak deck was original 2006. Should have been done 10 years ago. We don't have white oak out west. I do use green (Uncured) white oak for any bending projects; when it is ripped straight grain properly and put in a steam box, you can do wonderful bends with white oak.
3126 found a loose jam nut from a 3rd party repair a year ago , not sayying it couldnt happen to anyone but i personally have never had a jam nut come loose . Not sure what it jammed against to bend it but everything looks ok so im gonna order in a new push rod and run the valves and see what happens .this is in our lube truck so it is vital to get going asap .
Had it happen on a four valve head with valve bridges. The bridge jumped sideways off of the valve stem and pressed on the top of the valve stem cap. Popped the keepers out and dropped the valve on to the top of the piston as it was coming up. Since the stem didn't make it completely out of the guides, the piston bent it slightly and it stuck in the up position out of the way. I had done eighteen straight hours putting this engine back together just so they could move logs in the morning. Replaced the head the next morning and put them to work. Never worked those numbers of hours straight ever again.
Starting running the overhead before i left work the jam nuts are barely tight torqued several down with a torque just to see how much they moved and was appalled at how much they moved .
YIKES! That was a time bomb waiting for the right number of heat cycles.
The bent pushrod job went off with no further damage found replaced the 1 push rod ran the valves and all was ok . My side job k4n Mitsubishi i got fed up looking for parts and sent owner a link for a Taiwan made complete repair kit off ebay , hoping that doesnt get tied up in customs so i can get it to the machine shop
New to me work truck 2013 11 years newer