I was wondering about ways to fix egged out holes. Mainly for hitch pins and for hydraulic cylinders. The hole I have to fix cant be easily removed to send to a machine shop. So any ideas?
Bore it oversize, have machine shop make a steel bushing that fits in oversized hole with proper ID inner hole. Drop bushing in the hole and weld it in. I've done it many times. Take a look at post #25 of this thread.
What about these expansion bolts i've heard about. They are some kinda new thing that has come out just recently. Marketed as a way to fix the slope in the swing cylinder bushings for backhoes, without doing any line boring. Can't think of the name for them. Anyone have any experience with them?
Take a piece of pipe with the proper ID cit it the right lenth and weld it in. that is the best way us a 70000 lbs rod and have at it when you are done welding it wrap it in some old leather to let it cool slow
Watglen They are called "Expander pivot pins" http://www.expandersystem.com/
Thats it, thanks My 6500 hour jcb backhoe needs them in the swing cylinder connections.
Have you used them?
I get it now. The reason for the machine shop to do this one is to machine down for the wear plates. I had looked at this thread before I posted and thought there is no way to take what i got to a machine shop. Thanks for the info.
Can you post some pics of what you're working on Justin, would be a lot easier for us to offer ideas then.
When you weld in the new bushings get a good sized piece of brass plate and use it as a backing plate wile you weld it will save time and keep your weld from running out.
Copy that...
Here is a picture. I know it is not that great. It is on a grapple on a D6, where the lift cylinders hook on to the mounting plate. Behind the mounting plate is the winch. There is enough room weld on the backside. This is the better of the two sides. When I get the bushings I will try to take pictures as I fix it. I better hope I weld good that day! I guess this is were my experience fails me. Would you mind explaining this a little more. As in where do you put the plate etc. And maybe explain how it keeps the weld from running. I really appreciate the help and the knowledge.
if you can only weld on one side i cover the side i cant weld with a piece of brass plate. That way the weld wont run out the back side and you have very little clean up on the side that is hard to get at. I have a large selestion of reaming bits and when i am done my weld i set up a magnetic drill and true the hole up. if you are careful you should'nt need to do this. when you are setting your bushingin place use a square to get it true and tack it really good so it dont move. concentrate your head to the machine not your bushing wile welding. this will give you less chance of warpage
So what you're describing is Expander pins. and you have to line bore the first time and then pop those in to last more than twice the operating time on your equipment before it fails. So instead Line Boring every 3,000 hrs, you line bore every 10,000 hrs and pop their pin in there.... is that what you meant watglen? Remy http://lineboring.org
Yair...if clearance is not an issue I used to turn up bushes to weld on either side or on the ouside of flogged out holes...just slip a length of shafting through to keep everything in line...had to make longer pins of course. Finished job looks "professional" and if the rig is a keeper it is very simple to blow them off for replacement the second time around. I realise that this could put more load on the pin but in near forty years of doing it on many machines I never saw one break.
are you saying the expander pins never broke? I'm sorry I didn't catch. and just to be clear I ain't advertising for expander, I've just heard good and bad remarks and I'm just trying to find out about them. cheers