View attachment 1772414623411.jpeg Do I just unbolt the differential and pull it forward and reseal? A short video on YouTube with no explanation shows removing an axle.
You'll have to pull both axles.
^^^^as 92U says, but get some threaded dowels about 4" long, thread into housing start drive housing on dowels and it will scoot into place. Use the expensive Napa sealer called {The Right Stuff--in gray}.
If the diff has an axle locker do you also need to have that engaged before pulling the axles? I thought somebody told me that years ago.
That looks to be a 20-145 Rockwell, I'm not seeing a locker air cylinder on drivers side in that photo, could be photo angle too. Through shaft will stay in housing, just have someone rock intermediate driveshaft and it will connect. If it does have a locker connect shop air to it to lock arm in place.
Ok, thanks. It’s supposed to be a Meritor RT-46-164P with locker, which I guess is a Rockwell? I’ll see if I can find a number on it.
Meritor bought Rocky, and if its 46-164p it's a locker, real good drive unit.
I disconnected this line and got oil. Is that normal, or is there a seal in here I should change while the diff is out?
Air to interlock, compressor oil or gear oil?
I think it’s gear oil. This is what dripped out while the hose has been hanging there. A little more came out when I unhooked it from the diff. View attachment 1773998261915.jpeg
Nothing but a O-ring, most are rusty from moisture.
There is not enough room on this particular truck to pull the diff with this brake linkage in the way. What’s the best course of action to deal with this?
With large drive units that does become a issue, Some times with entire rig raised to let suspension drop there is enough room with slack removed, But I have had to remove wheel/hub as unit remove shoes and unbolt brake spider to gain access. But that only required removing one side, sounds bad but doesn't take long.
Ok, I’ll try jacking it up when I go back out tonight. That’s what I was afraid of. After brake pressure is released, if I remove that snap ring, can that shaft slide into the drum any? The quarter or half inch of shaft sticking out is the only thing preventing the diff from coming forward.
Yes, but it's wise to remove shoes, because those can cause S-cam to hang up. Which only requires wheel drum removal, not a big deal.
All the passenger side brake linkage had to come off. So to change the air interlock O-ring, I assume I unthread this piece out? How rough can I get with it? I’m guessing it will take a pipe wrench and heat to get it out?
I know im one of those weirdos that likes dayton wheels, but does the hub have to come off to do the brakes. I thought you could pull the tires and the drum would come off. Or is there not enough room to slide the s cam out. I ask this because im a believer in. If you pull the hub, might as well knock the seal out, inspect the wheel bearings and install a new seal
The drum slides off the studs once the wheels are off. But the hub is in the way of pulling the “S” cam. I somehow managed do damage the inner hub seal on that side while removing the axle shaft. The wedge locks were seized and it took lots of hammering and heating to beat it loose. So it’s getting a new seal.
So I took this truck for its first drive since the repair. I got ten miles from the shop, and the wheels locked up on the hub I had to remove. I got it freed up and drove it back to the shop, and then saw the new hub seal was leaking. I had reused the old bearing because it still looked good, but I apparently damaged it at some point during the repair, and it came apart. The oil in the hub was burnt and had lots of metal contamination. I shined a light inside the axle and saw no debris. I drained some diff oil and it still looked new, and I found no metal on the magnetic plug. What is the standard procedure for repairing a hub bearing failure? Just clean the hub and axle shaft and put it back together? Is it possible for contamination to get back into the differential?
Seen guys forget to put oil in the hub between the bearings before. It lasted 11 minutes. Seen guys tighten the nut too tight. My father used to tighten it then back it off spin it then snug it up till it started locking up then back it off a bit washer an lock nut. I can't see it getting in there but better safe than sorry. Truck Shop would be better qualified to answer than me. I haven't had a wheel off since I was a teenager. If it was mine. Inner outer both races and wheel seal
Clean hub, slap a new bearing/race/seal in place seal #47697. squirt some 75x90 in hub install outer bearing and first nut with tang out. run nut down till stops back off 1/8 to 1/4 turn install multihole lock washer/thin tab washer, install outer nut torque 200, should spin nice. I seriously doubt much if anything went inside axle tube, run a magnet down the tube and call it good. Do you have seal installers? * Lap tab washer over outer nut to lock.
Ok, that’s what I’ll do. I don’t have any seal installers. When I put it together before, the truck shop gave me a new type of seal that you apply a lubricant to that expands the rubber, then pound it in with a rubber mallet. I was somewhat skeptical of it, so this time I bought the traditional seal. Apparently no one in Billings sells the installers any more, so I’ll either have to order some cheap ones online or make something.
Use to be able to get through CR. Try a truck shop too see if they might rent one. It's easy to damage the inner seal area without a driver. Most truck parts can order drivers.