Hi guys!!! Been a long time! Sorry was crazy busy! I want to see if someone can help me with this seemingly simple question: should machine ( smaller Grove cherry picker) have “wet clutch” starter in it or regular starter. It is Clark 18000 series transmission with remote torque converter. Transmission has simple regular two way breather, torque converter has one way ( suction only ) breather with check valve. If you don’t drive it and just use crane - everything will be fine, after driving for awhile oil starts leaking through starter. Already found transmission breather just laying on top of transmission and as far I could feel with my fingers ( no space between transmissions top and the frame) the breathers threaded hole was plugged with dirt and mud! Gonna check gravity drain lines tomorrow for obstruction. Glanced through manual but didn’t find definitive answer, everything seems to be designed that oil should drain back to transmission case from converter case, but not sure. Will look through manual at home some more. What do you say: should it be “wet clutch” starter, or oil should not even get that high?!
Yes it needs a wet starter. The flywheel will still sling oil at even a low level.
Thanks! Stupidly didn’t think of that! Operator said that starter was not replaced before starting leaking, probably plugged breather hole build up internal pressure and blew starters seal. I’ll pull it tomorrow and take a look.
Can't speak for all starters but all the 40/42 MT Delcos and the 50 MT Delcos I came across had seals on the armature shaft for all models. Did have to explain that at one time when a new shop was starting up rebuilding our starters. They did not think it was that important and would just leave the old seals in when rebuilding. Had a few leaks from them. Also many of those starters have extra bolt holes to position the mounting flange and need the unused holes plugged for wet flywheel applications. They are usually sealed with rubber balls that press into the unused holes. Also need to be sure to install starters with mounting gaskets. If you want fun try dealing with the Prelube starters that have oil pumps mounted on the brush holder ends of the starter! There is a check valve in the line running to the oil galley of the engine but if that check valve sticks or just leaks a little it will fill the starter with dirty engine oil and those are not cheap starters to replace!
That’s something I’m thinking about right now. The wet starters I dealt with before in event of leaking seal get filled up with oil and starts to short out and running slow or not at all. This one works perfect but leaks somewhere from mounting flange between engine block and starter. Maybe just unplugged free hole. I’ll find out tomorrow.
Update: one, most difficult to install, bolt is missing!
Now I wonder why on earth that would be the case....??
Used to keep four or five Space Saver Head replacement bolts for when ran into the EPITOME of a SOB to get out 15/16" headed 5/8" starter mounting bolts. Would charge customer and never had a argument. My old Allis got my last NOS bolt.
On a 50MT Delco even using the 12 point bolts could be a bitch in some applications. Sometimes tightening one bolt would take three different wrenches or adapters.
I’m sure you guys know, but there’s no way you can put regular hex head in there! Just no space for that! Got to be small head 12 points sucker! Starter looks very fresh but bushing is very sloppy. Gonna replace bushing and probably seal Monday. No rubber balls but everything bolts on and plugs by set screw looking plugs and socket head bolts. Was no gaskets either, I think whoever was replacing this starter didn’t know it had to be wet starter. Another thing: it’s been many years since I messed with NPSM fittings! I think last time it was almost ancient backhoe that had those on it. Kinda awkward having male threaded end on the hoses, and female on the fittings.
Those dam gaskets I hate and quit using them years ago. They deteriorate in a short time and will push out of place. I just use a silicone sealer between the starter flange and the bellhousing. JMHO of course!
That’s what I will do, the re installation of starter will be difficult enough without massing with the gasket (don’t really want to remove cover structure), I talked about gasket or silicone just to show that whoever installed the starter previously didn’t understand or know that it is wet starter. I wasn’t sure either!
I actually had pretty good luck with the gaskets as long as they were a good quality gasket. One problem was some of the gaskets had too large a hole for the starter nose and would not stay in place while fighting the starter in a tight spot. Once in a while I would come across starters held on with 15/16ths headed bolts from the factory. Guess if the starter is installed on the motor while out of frame you can get a wrench on them but try ding that in-frame!