I dragged in a 1967 Clark BL700 TLB yesterday afternoon with a very good running 3-53 Detroit Diesel engine and power shuttle transmission. Everything runs and works alright, but this is a rough old girl for certain. It was traded in on a new New Holland mini excavator to accompany the gent's new last year New Holland C237 skid steer. I've already agreed to purchase it for scrap value as I can use the engine in another project to replace a gasoline Continental engine which is virtually extinct to get parts for.
Engine runs perfect and I do mean perfect. No blue smoke at all. Machine seems to operate fine in both forward and rear mode. Power shuttle works smoothly and as it should in both directions. Have only used low gear in the transmission, so assuming all others are good. Gent blew the main hydraulic line from the crankshaft driven hydraulic pump and traded it in after unbolting the driveshaft from the crankshaft snout but I'm told everything worked well up till then. I'll build up a new hose to check things out before dismembering the machine for my other project.
Neat looking old hoe! Seems a shame to part it out but everybody has their own needs.
Not going to break it down immediately but rather attempt to get some use out of it. Lot's of repair welding on the boom, dipper, and loader arms; probably having lived a pretty brutal life. Seemingly older, but good welds giving the appearance of having a breaker installed at some point but no real history.
3-53 detroit. Cool. The SD 40 EMD locomotive's used a two stroke engine built just like the 8V71 except 16 cyl. It sounded like an outboard evinrude running it down the track. My favorite ones to run.
I like those two stroke jokes myself. I have a 6-71, 6V-71, 8V-71, 12V-71T, and a 6V-92T. This 3-53 will be right at home. All run very well. Hopefully I can run across a 4-53 with an SAE #2 bell to replace yet another flat head Continental engine. The B-427 Continental, and 4-53 Detroit Diesel engines were both options in my portable air compressor series. Worked on a lot of two strokers of all sizes and variants in my former working life and know their sounds quite well. Thanks,
Been working with this tractor a bit meaning freeing up frozen linkages and such. Liberal applications of "Panther Pizz", (penetrating oil) onto the cables and sliding spools of the hydraulic valves have gained some much needed free movement. I guess this thing has sat outside with the hood off for almost a year. The engine rotates easily and is beginning to puff a bit from the exhaust but I've not started it yet. No oily residue in the exhaust pipe and it does have a "flapper" on it so no water hopefully. Typical of an old Detroit, there are three partial cans of ether in the operator compartment. Wonder what that is for..... Found a code 61 flange to build up a new hydraulic discharge hose at my shop, but have yet to do it. The existing hose has had a couple of repair sections put into it over the years and the way it is run under the tractor is easy to hang up on something. This is what happened with the prior owner I feel. Of course I didn't get that part of the story; only that the hose had blown.....
I hope it didn't damage the engine. #1 son felt the bulldozer needed a bit of exercise. He pushed the start button several times only to hear a little magnet sound. He went to get a booster, & still only a hum. I came to investigate, he was pushing either injection. We thought the either can was empty, so we weren't too concerned, but hit the start button, it roared to life & seemed it was running away at too high a speed, for a few seconds. Until then I had never seen the result of too much either, Wow that's scarry!
Only three and only partially empty? Must be a good running Detroit! Spent a good many days working on the Detroits everything from 3-53's to 16V-71 twin turbos. Ever seen another engine that will start and run with a broken crank? I had two different ones in the same year back in the day. Other than a major vibration ran pretty good! Unfortunately the blocks were cracked in the mains near the broken area of crank!
Don't know what happened to the center paragraphs of my post, but the part(s) about having the injectors calibrated, adjusting the rack and governor, and installing fresh fuel filters are not there. Strange, but I'll post the gist now. I'd thought an injector had stuck in the "no fuel" position and the engine refused to start. This ultimately was the frozen engine shutdown cable not allowing the rack to returned to the full fuel position which is normal after engine shutdown. After pulling the rocker cover, I did find #2 a bit "stiffer" in rack actuation than the other two so sent them in. They are N55 series and are fine after cleaning and calibration. The engine restarted easily tonight and runs smooth. Getting the frozen "pull to shutdown" cable free helped with that. I didn't move the tractor as the hydraulics have bled off and both buckets are firmly on the ground. Hoping the liven the hydraulics up over the weekend with a new hose and hydraulic fluid in the reservoir. I'd like to get the tractor home to examine it closer. It's only eight miles distant so will probably road it rather than trailer to get everything acclimated and stabilized prior to moving along further.
another 50 years and it will cost a fortune.
That video was taken just after getting it running for the first time in many months. Second engine start actually. It runs better with the aforementioned work performed. Hoping to get a hydraulic line built up for it shortly, but have a few other irons in the fire so this may take a back seat.
Man for a Detroit this thing starts easily. 58 degrees yesterday morning and about a half second of ether onto the air filter element and she doesn't hesitate to fire off with just a "blip" of the starter button. Hopefully get that hydraulic line issue addressed yet this week to make it operational again.
Found the hydraulic leak that put the tractor down and it's just a simple hose with a bunch of adapters to make it work. The hydraulic pump on this engine driven from the crankshaft snout via driveshaft. It is canted in it's mount meaning rotated about 45 degrees from a vertical plane for one of it's main discharge ports which directly should feed into a cooler for the power shuttle. This cooler was bypassed, (probably compromised) and an adapter setup they used should have been routed differently. The 3/4" discharge hose was routed so it lays on the heavy cast counterweight of the tractor front end which is very rough texture. This line was necked down to -8 size at the shuttle oil feed line. Vibration over time rubbed through this line but was hard to find as there are a pile of hoses right there as bypassing the cooler left a real maze of hoses to snake it around to fit. This machine has three oil coolers in total up front. After gaining access I find an adapter crimp fitting going from a -12 female to -8 hose. My Weatherhead catalog lists no such animal, nor can I find one via local hydraulic shops, or online. I have a -12 45 degree fitting so will change this to the -8 needed and feed back into the shuttle supply line eliminating a lot of the "rats nest" there prior. Using the angle fitting right off of the pump discharge will keep the hose from scrubbing on the counterweight again. Once this hose is replaced the a reservoir refilled, the tractor should drive home for further evaluation. From my understanding it functioned well prior to "something" exploding up front after which it was traded in for the new mini excavator.
Reminds me of my old backhoe, it looks like a pretty solid old machine from the pictures. Like somebody else said, it seems a shame to part it out. Probably most old equipment will make the scrapyard or parted out though, the new backhoes and excavators are so much quicker and more efficient to run. What I like about my old backhoe is that it is dead simple to work on. Nice project!
From various casting dates inprinted on components of the machine it appears to be a 1972 build rather than late 1960's as originally thought. Several major castings have the fourth quarter of 1971, or the first quarter of 1972 on them. Same thing with the engine which has several March, and April 1972 casting marks from the foundries. The grille or front end treatment look markedly different than older machines also. Until I get the oil to stay in the machine I'll not move it. I reconnected the hydraulic pump flange to the crankshaft snout to ascertain where the leak was and the engine won't be started again till the hose is built up and replaced/interconnected. I had to expense a five gallon pail of AW32 oil but no other real way to find the leak without doing this as I didn't have any used oil. Plans have changed for the outcome of this machine. If it has any service life left it will be transported to our future homestead property to dig out stumps. My son has already dropped almost 50 trees of small to medium size and was going to start letting stumps rot in place. I'm going to take the 11B dozer down there and hopefully this backhoe to speed the process up a tad. After many trees and stumps are gone, the leveling will begin after a vehicle access road is cut in. Thanks for the encouragement!
Should have some hydraulic fittings in the mail tomorrow and will build up the hose to "prove" the machine. Hopefully no other problems come to light but with something so old anything is possible.
I was finally get it operational yesterday afternoon. A couple of new hydraulic lines and 10 gallons of trans/hydraulic oil and most functions livened right up. Still haven't moved the machine as it must have been empty as if all functions won't work citing the machine is still low in the reservoir. By the time all the cylinders are refilled and stroked purging the entrapped air, I didn't have enough oil with me. I did leave the loader bucket raised full stroke to see if it stays there in the overnight hours.
Thanks Paul; I'll look into that link for final disposition of this machine. My son is excited to have it at the present for jobs he is currently working with. Though originally purchased for the engine only to repower my manlift from gasoline to diesel, this machine is panning out to seemingly have some life left in it.
Yesterday afternoon I left the loader bucket elevated near full stroke in the air and it's drifted down to here: Picked up 20gl of hydraulic oil suitable for the machine and will dump another five into it tomorrow and get everything stroking proper. So far no leaks I've noticed but the machine is setting on grass so kind of hard to tell. I noticed with the loader bucket in the air I could see the valve stem for the left front tire is snapped off. It is a bolt in type so will remove the rim and get it back to the shop to install a new one I have on the shelf. Didn't get a chance to work with it today as other things going on.
Will the motor start at 60 degrees with out a snort of spring air.? Bob
Yes, it seems to readily. Here is a short cold start video when the outside temp was 58 degrees and the engine hadn't been started in a couple of days. The tractor hydraulic pump is not connected as I'd not replaced the blown hose yet: Here is another that is a short partial walk around:
Little time this morning. Screenshot of local temperature: Bucket has dropped a bit more in the overnight hours: Dumped in 10 gallons of oil to start off with: Video of the front loader bucket stroking, and finding out the backhoe works but at 2:30 just as the rear bucket curls complete, it's hose blows and the bucket uncurls. Had to stop there till I can get a hose built up. Also discovered the rear swing cylinders are now in the rear bucket so he prior owner must have dropped them off. He told me when picking up the tractor they were in the shop to be repacked.
Just by that video seems to be a sound motor. Bob
Agree as it starts easily when about 10 degrees warmer. Doesn't have any blue smoke at all. Hoses are a mess with many having the braid showing. Knowing it would lift the rear assembly gives me motivation to keep working with it. I wish my 6V-71 in the large air compressor started this well but anything below about 75 degrees requires a snort of "Happy Juice" to start.
Backhoe comes off the tractor with pulling four pins and using the hydraulics for the boom and outriggers for support. One disconnects two 1.000" hydraulic lines via quick connects, and drive out. Problem is with a hydraulic hose blown, this is not possible. That on top of the old hose is very still and rigid so cannot get any bend to it. Once of the disconnects I was able o muscle free but the other no way. I'm going to cut the hose with a reciprocating saw and chain the boom up for transport. I'll then use my gantry at the shop to support the backhoe assembly and separate the tractor from it for renewing the hoses. They are really snaked around the king post and one of these has blown. I'll make a "jumper" hose to bypass the rear valve body making it long enough to cut it in half and reutilize the crimp fittings again with the permanent install. The crimped ends are 1.000" NPT and the 7241A series quick connects are female so kinda easy to accomplish. Both disconnects can be seen here: Crimp fittings I'll use building up the new "jumper" hose: Some of the crap I do to have fun in retirement when the grand daughters aren't available.
Should change the galvanized plumbing fittings for proper hydraulic ones.
That too was a consideration as they are not original, nor proper for the tractor. Priority is to first get it back to the shop and do some evaluation of just how far I want to go with this thing. I found a coil of 1" hose in the shop so will attempt to get the "jumper" hose built up today. Those are the only water pipe type fittings I've seen so far. All the others seem to be hydraulic types. Going to attempt to chain binder the backhoe and bucket up for transport later today but it's supposed to rain a good portion of it. Thanks,
No rain so far so ran over and chained the rear boom and bucket up after pushing the tractor back a bit out of the oil slick. Found this on the rt. front tire after pushing the tractor back, so going to haul rather than drive the eight miles to my shop: Back swing cylinders were not repacked. Talked to prior owner today and they need new rods and the glands bushed to hold seals. He wasn't going to go the expense and this is part of the reason it was traded. I have a machinist buddy whom will repair these for me and I'll reweld the ends back on the new rod. These look like they've been reworked in the past.
Managed to snap a photo of the snapped valve stem on the LF wheel. Snapped off clean at the base of the threads so must have impacted something:
It actually doesn't look like too bad of a machine. It looks heavy built.
Yes, it is heavy built. So much has been neglected on this but so much remains functional I'm not entirely certain which direction to take. It's been a real stranger to a grease gun and the joints are testament to that. Many of the zerks are painted over and the paint is unbroken from all those years ago. No valve spools are stuck but the front bucket shaft both operator handles rotate on is broken free of it's mounting making it a challenge to roll, or curl the front bucket. Very tight on it's bushing and almost took two hands to operate it but it's freed up a tad with use. I don't think it original but the shaft was welded to the dashboard unit where it was probably originally bolted but there is not longer a support present. The other end of the shaft is supported but I cannot remember how. I've sprayed a lot of penetrant up in that area to get things moving. Getting the unit to lift the backhoe is promising. I did take the one end of the feeder, or return hose loose and start the engine wondering the effect. The engine died very shortly as the hydraulic pressure elevated. I didn't bring the engine up off of slow idle, but it killed the engine twice so definitely building some pressure. I don't know if there is a main pressure relief valve for the system, or if the machine relies upon the loader, or backhoe valves for pressure relief? Not really climbed around under it to pinpoint anything, so no certainty of any kind.
I would imagine the hoses for the backhoe have to be connected when the backhoe is on or off so you don't dead head the pump. This is common on 99% of machines with quick attach backhoes. Less than 20 seconds can ruin the pump. Aluminum pumps have been known to split the case. If it killed the engine is probably a good thing as dead heading the pump will usually blow the pump up as there's nothing to limit the pressure when the oil has nowhere to go and no other circuits are being used. Get an understanding of the hyd. system before you start the engine or it will make your choice on whether to repair it or scrap it real easy.
Yup. The reason for the "jumper" hose I've spoken of. I expected the engine to stall if there were no system relief valve incorporated. The engine was purposely slowed to just above being able keep itself running prior. Can't compress a liquid but as bad as the hoses are on this machine I would think one would let go before splitting this cast iron pump housing. Went back over this afternoon and measured up for the "jumper" hose and seven feet in total will do it. This length will allow for cutting it in half and 1" NPT male ends crimped onto the bitter ends to be reconnected as normal. This of course once the backhoe portion has new hosing installed. The existing look pretty gnarly from age. These original hoses are just about 42" in length each with room to shorten the one I cannot disconnect as it's laying against the machine frame and inflexible. Gotta love working on this old crap.
Well yesterday was a washout around here. Downpours most of the day and today looks much the same. However I did do some further evaluation and have ordered a 1" female branch tee, a one inch long 1" pipe nipple, a two inch long 1" pipe nipple, 1" 45 degree elbow, and a 1"X1/4" reducer bushing along with a 1/4" NPT close nipple for a 7241B fitting to use as a test port to match my pressure gauges setup. All those pipe fittings are hydraulic rated to rid the machine of the water pipe install. Now knowing the machine will make enough pressure to operate it's functions, I'll start correcting the idiosyncrasies incorporated through it's service life with prior owners. Swing cylinders should be picked up sometime this week when the hydraulics shop gets by this way. Thanks,
Finally got that cantankerous SOB hose loose this afternoon. I took a 1" ratchet strap and hog tied the hose and winched it up to where it could be shoved into another position away from the tractor frame. I then took the lug wrench from my truck and while holding the collar back on the quick connect, was able to get the male plug to move just a bit. It was enough the collar would not slam back closed so again using the lug wrench, I placed the flat part of this on the hose end, and smacked the other end with a pipe wrench as had no hammer with me. Viola!! the connection separated so now both input, and outlet of the rear valve body are hanging free. I could not get either end of the 7241A fittings to break loose from their hose threads but all I had was a 24" Rigid pipe wrench and a 20" adjustable wrench. I was laying into these connections with all I had but they'll not budge. I'll get them apart tomorrow as I'll drag my welder and torches behind my truck. I did get the "jumper" hose built up today. Not going to worry about any kind of routing; just want to get the tractor home to work on it inside. I then called the hydraulics shop for an ETA when they would pick up my rear swing cylinders and was told "it could be next week" as the route driver is sick..... At that point in the game, "********" was called, and I tore into them myself. Gotta love the condition of the hoses: Going to need a new rod in this cylinder: The cylinder with the scored rod had a bit of water in the bore but I think I can hone it out acceptably well. 3.5" bore, 1.5" rod, and about 21" of stroke with pressure relief/bumper cushioning at stroke bottoming. Pretty standard seal set and I really didn't notice anything too terrible bad in the glands so they should be alright for reuse also. We'll see once everything is cleaned up reasonable well. I stripped out all the soft parts and will run over to another hydraulic shop tomorrow afternoon and see if they can set me up with parts. I can test these to about 1500psi with my line boring pumping unit but it won't go any higher in pressure but that's probably enough to test with. 26 years now that old Dodge has made a pretty good workbench for me too.....
Wow I find this thread interesting, keep up the good work!
Wow you're making some headway, glad to see you decided to try and make it run. I like the old stuff.
Received an email back from the original owner whom traded this machine in. Those rear cylinders haven't been on the tractor in about five years and sitting outside on a cart under a tarp. No wonder they are so crusty. Hydraulic shop told him they were too bad to work with so went no further. Again, "********" has been called and another path taken. He busted the Schrader fitting off on the LF wheel when using his skid steer to straighten out the wheels aligning it so I could winch it onto the trailer. Also informed me he purchased a new tire for the tractor to replace the one with a rubber chunk out of it, but didn't send it thinking the tractor would be junked. I'm welcome to it so will get by there on a retrieval mission. Pulled out one of my welders last evening with torch tanks mounted so will get those fitting both separated and built up later this afternoon. Looks to be a clear day today so hopefully I can get to actually moving the tractor from it's current dormancy position. I have a full day hauling a couple of farm tractors and garden equipment so don't actually know how much time I'll have to work with this but do want to get that hose mounted up and prove the driveline. Thanks for the encouragement and I too like the old stuff; actually prefer it over new if possible.
Finally got the ends separated and it was not easy at all. Warming the ends red finally softened the pipe dope these were assembled with and they came apart. The first one I worked with came apart with heat only. The second one shown in photos there was no way to get the fitting apart while in the tractor. While looking at the connector I thought it looked like a field repairable type and it was. I then disassembled this end: After clamping the fitting end into a bench vise, it came apart fairly easy. I then installed the male quick connect ends onto the new built up hose. More on this later as about all I got done being busy elsewhere. Tomorrow doesn't look too good to continue at this point.
Received an email in the overnight hours and it appears this machine is local to me it's entire life. No real history other than it was the only one of it's type in the area. New in 1972 and rotated through in 1978. The next 20 years are probably lost to history as the guy I basically got it from purchased it in 1998 from a long defunct machinery dealer in the area. One of the hoses is emblazoned "Caterpillar" so either the local Cat dealer has worked on it, or somebody brought hydraulic parts home from work with them. This area has many Caterpillar facilities so anything is possible. Yesterday I did discover the hoses when disconnected from their attachment points are quite long and curled, or rolled up a bit behind the backhoe valve body. It appears with the hydraulics connected, one would run the boom and bucket down touching the ground, remove the upper pins retaining the backhoe assembly, deploy the outriggers slightly lifting the backhoe assembly from the "sockets" the lower pins set into, drive forward a few inches, and then disconnect the hoses. The backhoe forms it's own stand this way. With new and flexible hose this wouldn't be too difficult but given these are very stiff, it's not that easy. It also appears as the tractor is moved forward of the backhoe attachment, the rear is open meaning access to the quick disconnects is quite easy. I don't know why the supply line fitting has had the plumbing fittings installed angling the fitting, but I surmise the original orientation was rearward facing as the return connection is? More on this as I figure it out along the way. Surely wish I had some type of manual, or experience with such things but it is what it is I suppose..... Got to pick up a small dealer transfer farm tractor down south of St. Louis this morning so will continue the updates later when they happen. Thanks,
Didn't get back from that run till almost dark so did nothing viable the balance of the evening. Seven hours in the saddle with a single stop for 15 minutes to load and strap, then another five minutes to fuel and pizs, makes for a long day and lower back cramps for an old man like me. Hope to get back at it later today but not hauling local yesterday makes for a backed up Tuesday; ahh, the fun of retirement..... Forecast calls for rain today so kinda "iffy" at this point whether I'll touch the tractor or not. Thanks,
Nothing really exciting with the backhoe repairs but I did see some excitement yesterday on my travels: Don't get to see a car flipped upside down on the interstate everyday: And then this morning while delivering two smaller farm tractors, I hit an unmarked washout of the pavement on a state highway and the trailer hitch apparently is defective as the trailer separated from the gooseneck ball at about 65mph. I was able to bring the truck to a safe stop, lowered the landing gear, and reconnected. As you can see in the latch assembly, it is bent and although the locking pin falls into place, it must not be engaging fully. Looking close you can see one safety chain has let go also from it's anchor point. The safety clasp on this hook is destroyed so it did it's job though sacrificing itself in the process. Regardless, another hitch and safety clasp are on order to replace these. Not my first rodeo but a bit of luck and good fortune on my side for sure. The tractor you see is about 7200#, and the one on the rear is just a bit lighter in weight: It was raining like a cow piszing on a flat rock at the time and the road spray precluded immediately seeing this in the mirrors. Upon slowing and seeing the trailer was not centered behind the truck I "tapped" the brakes to slam the neck riser into the tailboard. I then slowed and pulled to the side while remaining on the pavement. Uneventful after this. All in all, nobody got hurt nor any customer equipment damage and we lived to tell the story. It's all good.
Didn't do anything with the tractor today as it's rained heavy all day. I did ensure my plastic zip lock bags were still on the open hydraulic connections to disallow water to enter just before the rains moved in. Got a few deliveries tomorrow I couldn't get today citing weather and hopefully they'll conclude early enough I can get the hose bypass finished up.
little bit of spooky stuff there rob glad no damage done
Thanks, never a dull moment it seems. I look at those safety chains, hitch, lights, tires, along with general overall condition and chain equipment heavy every trip. You never can predict what you will endure during a seemingly simple endeavor. I called the road washout into the county office whom called the state. I didn't go back that way so no idea how the roadway was addressed. Nothing mentioned on the news, so hopefully was addressed quickly.
Me & the missus were driving on I91 50 miles from home on a sunny summer Sunday in her Grand Cherokee. Suddenly, a dead tree fell across my lane, the top branches shattered all over the left lane. I swerved, but there was a Ford Escape in the left lane. He must have swerved also. I ran over part of the trunk, he ran over numerous broken pieces of 4" wood. No wreck! A tractor trailer was following me. I, and the guy in the Escape stopped to check on each other. Looking back, the truck was stopped where the tree trunk would be 4' above the pavement. There was a group of people forming. I didn't back up to investigate. I called State Police, dispatcher acted like I was imagining it all. She clearly thought I was some kind of nut. Said there had been no report. I was surprized a dead tree could be that close to an interstate highway. I wish I had got a better look. Was it a 100' tall monster & only the top reached the lane? I don't know.
Great Project! Please keep the photos and updates coming. Glad that you came out unscathed from your trailer incident.
Figured I'd get back onto this project since it's been a few months doing nothing. I made a jumper hose to bypass the backhoe valve block and this seems to work pretty well as it's not puking oil any longer. 30 degrees outside and with just a "sniff" of ether, she fired right off and immediately settled to a nice and smooth idle. Had a multimeter with me this time and the alternator does not appear to be charging. Didn't bring any hydraulic oil with me so could not stroke the bucket full height before starving out. Supposed to be much colder the next few days so today was the day to do anything if going to. Glad I did get a look at it. Now going to return and with a five gallon pail of hydraulic oil and impact wrench to bring the left front time back to the shop for valve stem replacement. The original is broken off. Backhoe is chained up and if I get the tire repaired I should be able to drive it back to the shop. Rear swing cylinders are at the hydraulic shop getting rebuilt at this time. Hopefully get it back to the shop fairly quickly and remove the backhoe portion to install all new hoses.
That is cool, older TLB. Very nice work. Always great to see older machines brought back to life. They are real work horses. The extra heavy steel they have gives them durability and weight, combined with low gear power, makes them great machines.
Thanks. This one is a challenge with it being so cold outside now. I went by this afternoon and the bucket is still up in the air so must have some fair seals still. It had no problem picking the front of the tractor up from the ground but I quit when the hydraulics starved where the photos show. Thursday is supposed to be above freezing and I have two five gallon pails of hydraulic fluid in my truck be so hopefully something further can be accomplished. I also found a set of bolt in valve stem assemblies to replace the broken one on the left front. I swear this thing has the best starting "53" series I've ever been around. Most have been thoroughly thrashed but this one seems to have had very good care. It's not even greasy.
Do you have the front cowl/hood for it?
Yes, it is in the front bucket but bent up. There never were any side panels on these and the engine is open.
Drove by today and the bucket has dropped to about centered in the grille. So between Monday afternoon, and Saturday late afternoon a drop of about 3.5 feet. Not too awful bad for such an old machine.
Better than my old Deere 310A. Cylinders were rebuilt before I bought it, so now I think the valve is seeping. Plenty strong though, has no issues breaking out a pile and hoisting a full bucket. If I leave it raised overhead, it'll be on the ground in a day.
My loader leaking down wasn't a problem until it I had to continually hit the hoist lever to keep a loaded bucket elevated when traveling After resealing both hoist cylinders it still leaked down. I replaced the spool in the loader valve and it ended the problem.
Mine doesn't leak down during operations, at least not noticeably. The boom on the hoe does, though. Quite a bit. I can't drive 600 ft without having to pick it up a couple inches. The boom cylinder was replaced right before I bought the machine, so I know that one is in the spool. It'll live like that for awhile though, as there are 6 valves connected together and a dozen hoses to remove to be able to do any work to it. Low priority.
Went by earlier today and dumped in 10 gallons of hydraulic oil which got the hydraulics working full stroke with plenty of power. Here is where the front bucket was upon arrival so it really hasn't dropped much more: Curled the bucket so I could lift the front of tractor clear of the ground so could remove the left front tire for valve stem replacement. Unfortunately for me, the engine starved out of fuel just as it reached the end of stroke so I set the tractor back down not having any cribbing with me. I certainly was pleased to learn the tire was only flat on what was the bottom side.....: While stroking the loader bucket I pitched out the hood panel which is pretty bent up but all there. Little torch, hammer and dolly work will get it back onto the tractor: I'll grab a five gallon can of diesel at the shop and my priming pump and get it going again this afternoon. It was 32 degrees outside and the engine started easily with just a sniff of ether.
Four hours later: Dumped in 4.5 gallons of fresh fuel, cranked the engine for about 30 seconds, just a "sniff" of ether and she roared back to life without stumble. After about a minute of setting at low idle, I stroked the loader bucket full up, full down, and curl/dump functions fully. I can tell the loader pivot points are "loose" but not near as bad as some chore tractors on farms I visit. Regardless, I was pretty pleased to see the hydraulics so responsive. Still not having any cribbing with me for blocking, I decided to leave the front of the tractor elevated and will check it in the morning to see if the hydraulics hold with down pressure applied:
Site arrival this morning: By measurement it's only dropped about 1/2 inch since yesterday. Still no cribbing with me but I did start the engine, cycled the hydraulics again, and this time with the wheels in the air cycled the steering several times purging the air. I think the steering is a little tight over center but the front end joints are well worn. These can be seen from the center link to spindle connections which are loose. Going to punch a valve stem into the rim shortly and hopefully get to move the tractor before the rain and snow starts later today.
Well, some more good progress, and then a setback. Broke the bead of the tire and installed a new valve stem without issue, then remounted on the tractor: After mounting the tire and rim back onto the tractor, I started the engine and raised the loader to put weight back onto the tires. Was very satisfied that flat spot on the tire was gone: I then jumped up in the seat, placed the transmission into low gear, selected forward motion eagerly anticipating this thing jumping forward, but nada from the driveline. Bringing the engine up from low idle with a slow ascent to mid idle, the tractor attempts to pull itself and then the engine runs away. Kinda/sorta like a bad clutch in a truck, or a bad torque converter does. Reverse is the same. It doesn't have enough driveline torque to pull itself. The engine will race to full governed rpm without resistance. However it is attempting to operate correctly as you can feel it in the tractor with slight loading of the driveline. With the manual four speed transmission in neutral and forward selected, you cannot put the trans in gear due to gear clash. Same with reverse. It however slips right into gear if the selector is in neutral. I pulled the floorboad and checked the reservoir for what I believe is either the shuttle, or torque converter. It is both full, and clean. There is a filter beside this and it is heating evenly top to bottom but I did not open it. There are what appear to be two plugged pressure ports in the housing, but I don't know what would be normal readings from these so went no further. I looked for a vendor tag but found nothing. I did locate the source of lack of recharging of the battery. No wires plugged into the alternator field exciter connection. The harness is corroded away, and I could not locate a voltage regulator on the tractor at all; only the former mounting point. I'll replace it with a Delco 10SI series and all will be good. It started raining as I was buttoning the floor panel back in and we are supposed to get some serious snow over the next few days. It will probably be a few days before I can get back to this project but I'll have time to do additional research. I left it in this position when departing: Now off to learn something about torque converters.....
I've got to ascertain exactly what this thing has installed for a driveline. Last fall when warmer the tractor had no problem attempting to move, and the prior owner tells me he never had any problems with that. The tractor was used regularly till that front hose blew and then traded in. This inability to move yesterday is a new problem. I've not been under this tractor at all looking for identification tags. All I know is a manual transmission and a reverser. Never seen a shuttle transmission without a manual clutch so assuming a torque converter setup. There is no clutch pedal, only two brake pedals and an accelerator. Doesn't seem to be much available via the internet for this tractor either. I'll need to move it forward a bit with the forklift and maybe once it's pushed out of it's current position, (sunken ruts) a little, it may move. It needs to be out of the mud and oil where it is setting before sliding under. Regardless, it didn't have enough driveline pull to trust it on any kind of jobsite. So far we received about six inches of snow in the overnight hours so probably won't work with this for a few days as forecast calls for more yet.
Coworker slipped under the tractor this afternoon and called to tell me the transmission is a Borg Warner unit looking very much like a T18 series. I find that strange given Clark also manufactured transmissions? I would assume the torque converter is also a BW product if this is true. I've not been under the tractor at all so cannot say one way of another. The prior owner confirms it is torque converter drive and says in colder weather it can take several minutes warmup before the tractor will move. That sounds problematic in itself to me. I've watched a couple of videos on youtube and they don't have the slip this one does. Ordered a replacement "10SI" alternator with external "R" terminal this morning. The mechanical tachometer is missing from the dash and I'll install a cheap electronic one triggered from the alternator terminal to fill the hole. Wound up with just about 14" of snow in our area. I've been out in the skid steer first clearing my shop, then our house in town and finding I'm less tolerant of the cold than used to be.
The power reverser in my Deere 310A is definitely sluggish in cold weather. When it's cold (under 32°F), it wants to slip horribly. Once up to temp, it shifts in spec according to service manual (3/4s from F to R). The 310a has a dry clutch, with a power reverser behind it going into an 8 speed gear box. I don't run my backhoe much in cold weather anymore, but when I did, I let it warm up 10-15 minutes before doing anything. I started plowing with my skidsteer last year and haven't run the backhoe much since. I mounted an old 7' 6" Fisher plow to a skid steer quick attach plate and that makes the skid steer very handy for moving snow now.
I need to cut my plow down. It's an 8'6" Meyer originally from an F-550 one of the little towns around here had. It works well but is unwieldy to use on driveways and is very indiscriminate in what it takes out being so stiff having four trip springs. The skid steer is very handy to use in this arena, but the 1845C is so slow you are always wanting more..... Can't bring myself to replace it however being so reliable when the 75+hp new ones I deliver; well the emissions systems are troublesome..... Temps are supposed to be a bit warmer the next few days but the snow is to hang around. There is a spot in the machine shed I may drag this tractor into and evaluate it further. Don't really want to pull the trans out there as I have the relatively correct tools at my shop, and there is much I can do with it once there.
1845C? I recall when the quarry took delivery of one of those in 1989! Can't recall just why but do know I was not impressed with it being used to the older 1845 models we had in the company. That said something like four or five years after I retired in 2015 found out the boss was forced to put it in an Iron Planet auction. Around that time they got a new Cat skid steer, last I knew they wish they still had the 1845C! Considering in 2002 they got a JCB 185 that was to replace the 1845C it is surprising they managed to hold on to it that long. Won't say the 1845C never had problems but 99.9% of them could be attributed to out and out abuse. No major work on engine, just starter, alternator and water pump. As for the JCB they have been trying get rid of it since it was only a handful of years old! Think I heard they were finally getting their wish this year! The 1845C I believe went to someone in Texas!
I hear you about the speed of the skid steer. My 753 bobcat only goes like 6mph. Plenty fast for a small space, but could be faster when doing the long portion of my drive. We had a compact wheel loader at the farm that would do 18mph in high gear. That allowed a very reasonable 10mph or so while plowing the farm drives while still maintaining a high level of maneuverability. 1845c are a very dependable machine. My grandpa has been running them since they were introduced in the 80's, and still runs 4 of them on his farm today. Rock solid, dependable, very little electronics, etc. Just solid machines through and through.
This one sure has been good to me. Only a starter, couple of hoses, and reseal the tilt cylinders are about it. I've owned since 2001 and is a 1995 build. About 6mph wide open which was probably very common before two speeds made inroads. Hope to get another 20 years out of it too as for my use, no real need to replace. I'd sure like to have a small wheel loader but really have limited need.
Me too. I had a chance to buy a used Deere 304H a few years ago, but just couldn't justify owning it.
I've been thinking on this and I probably have much the same setup as you. Given the transmission is a manual four speed without a reverse selection/gear, and a torque converter does not reverse rotation being bolted to the engine flywheel, there has got to be a way to drive the transmission backwards. This would be where the reverser comes into play. Though I'd never thought of it in the past, maybe the term "power shuttle" , and "reverser" are one in the same? All of the tractors I've been around with a shuttle type transmission have had a clutch pedal and whether a power, or mechanical shuttle denoted it's usage to switch directions. I don't have a clutch pedal with this Clark machine at all. One has to place the reverser into neutral position to switch gears in the transmission. All that said with a lot of assumptions, I very well may have a reverser problem rather than a torque converter problem. I've seen by looking online, shuttle rebuild kits for other machines and these things are loaded with clutch plates much like automatic transmissions, and dozer steering clutches. There seems to be a charge pump driven by the torque converter which supplies clutch pack pressure also. The reverser could very well be where the problem lays. I suppose now to identify what I actually have would be the next step and with the tractor hydraulics seemingly proven, it's time to move that direction. I sent the rear swing cylinders over to the hydraulics shop for rebuild and should have them back tomorrow or Monday.
“What's in a name? That which we call a rose by any other name would smell just as sweet.” -W. Shakespeare I agree, it sounds like you have the same type of set up, and Clark is just using the brakes to stall the torque convertor to stop movement. The clutch pedal on my Deere is 2 stage. First stage opens a valve/port and dumps pressure off the power reverser, allowing you to shift gears, or creep forward/reverse slightly, modulating your ground speed while maintaining rpms for hydraulic function. Useful while loading machine, or doing loader operations. Clutching is not required to shift forward to reverse under normal operating conditions. The second stage is only for cold start. You flip a lever up on the clutch pedal to allow for full stroke. When fully depressed, you are releasing the dry clutch on the flywheel. This allows the engine to spin faster during engine crank as it is not running the hydraulic charge pump in the reverser section during startup. You can't use this clutch in normal operation as it causes the hydraulic charge pump to stop turning, cutting off all hydraulic functions. The main hydraulic pump driven off engine crank is supplied by the charge pump. Deere says you have to leave the travel stop arm down during normal operations. As for your Clark, I really haven't a clue how they did it. I would presume the basics are the same, except they're using the torque convertor in place of a standard clutch. From my understanding, the power reverser unit is fairly straight forward to rebuild, just a pain in the butt to get out as you have to split the tractor.
12 degrees here with a high of 18 called for today. Kinda favoring the 72 degrees in front of the computer right now..... I'm told this Clark has a driveshaft to the drive axle so hoping no need to split the tractor if clearance allows. I will have to see if there is an access panel in the bottom of the torque converter housing to remove fasteners, or if you slip the transmission out separate of the converter then remove the retaining bolts. Having not been underneath I don't know. The transmission to engine connection looks to be an SAE 3 by the size and hopefully nothing special. Only the right side brakes appear to operate. There are two master cylinders, and two brake pedals and both cylinders have switches incorporated. I'm going to remove the wires and see if it's possible something is shorted disengaging the reverser just so I can check that box off. The spool appears to stroke full length as I can easily see the linkage with the floor removed. Hopefully once it warms a bit over the weekend I'll get over there and just let it idle a couple of hours to warm and stabilize. I can easily winch it up onto a trailer if it decides to be cantankerous and not move, but I'd rather drive it to get everything warmed for fluids change.
Still attempting to ascertain just what this power reversing thing is. Looking at the torque converter housing and what I can see of the transmission topside, it doesn't look like Twin Disc, Rockford, or Borg-Warner at all. The hydraulic spool that moves with the handle is completely different than the others. There are two pressure ports/taps in the converter housing also the aforementioned brands do not show in diagrams. I've not been able to locate anything referencing Clark manufacturing a power reversing transmission and don't know if they did. I may need to remove the complete floor pan panels to see more of this thing but it has a remote filter, and a left side mounted dipstick. None of the others show that. I don't know if there is a bolt on oil pan or such. This is bugging me enough I may brave the cold today and slide under to get a closer look if the thing is not buried in snow. The machinery lot where this tractor is did not receive the accumulation we did six miles west I'm told. Looks as if a lot of the TLB manufacturers used a Borg-Warner T72 series "Velvet Drive" transmission, which is a power shuttle unit.
The first model of John Deere 410 had no torque converter. I don't remember just how it worked, seems a brake on a planetary gear caused it to rotate the other direction. Mine had a bad leak when I bought it & fluid level dropped below a certain point, it caused the clutch to release. Took 5 gallons of oil to drive it ten miles home where I could address the leak.
I've found this to be both interesting, and intriguing. I'll find the solution as not one to give up easily, but I first must figure out what I'm working with before a plan of action can be placed into motion. Never have worked on something like this in the past and my wife says I'm a "glutton" for punishment sometimes, but I'm alright with it. Not really a lot on youtube with one of these, but here is one where you can hear the engine working:
Went by yesterday afternoon and it's not snowed in very bad so will work with it this weekend some. Bucket has dropped a bit over the past few days: Left front tire continues to be round for all 360 degrees of it's circumference too. Got a quick look underneath and there is another oil slick growing so wasn't going to lay down in it to grab photos but down on one knee I could see the transmission which very much looks a Borg-Warner design. the transmission bolts into the reverser assembly, which bolts to the engine flywheel housing. From my vantage point I didn't think it looked the TR72 series mentioned earlier and the sump appears a lot different. This is the access port for changing the hydraulic filter/strainer in the tank and it's leaking as can be seen. Not a steady drip, but about every 15 seconds. You can see the yellow snow adhering to the escaping oil. I'll drain it down and fashion a new gasket later today: Hole in the dash formerly occupied with a tachometer. I've ordered an electronic driven tach along with the alternator and this hole will be filled shortly:
Went by this afternoon as the temperature was above freezing. I have another growing oil slick because of that leaking access cover but other than that, not a lot of encumbrance to slipping under the tractor. Using a metal bladed scraper and on the left side of the transmission, I see the raised casting letters: WG DIV T18 so that identifies the range transmission as a Borg-Warner T18 series. Moving forward to the reverser, I scrape the heavy cast iron sump and there are casting numbers there also being T12-10 which traces back to an older Borg-Warner torque converter driven single speed forward and reverse transmission so it's nailed down. I also located a book listing it as 1.19:1 ratio in both forward and reverse. This transmission was used by a lot of equipment manufactures including Allis-Chalmers, Bucyrus-Erie, Baker, Linde, Hyster, etc. It calls for 16qts. of Type "A" auto transmission fluid or Dexron III fluid of today's market. Don't know what is actually in there as it is not red but more of a clear like hydraulic oil with a brown tinge. Going to drain it, change the filter, and go from there. Have yet to find any test procedures or indications from the pressure taps but still working it. The engine started right up without issue using just a snort of ether. No smoke and settled right down to a smooth idle. I let it run about 1/2 hour and checked the fluid and it's low about a gallon in the reverser so maybe that is why it is unresponsive. I've checked it a couple of times when the engine was not running but once figuring out what I'm working with, it makes sense as it's kind of an automatic transmission.
I didn't know Borg Warner made a shuttle transmission like that. It makes sense though, they make a lot of products for many different companies. That should help make service info and parts more readily available.
John Deere used the TR72 a lot in their backhoes. It is probably what yours has. If it has a small bolt on sump with the drain plug on the left side, it's almost certainly this one. It was called "Velvet Drive" and Regal-Beloit invented it for boating before Borg-Warner purchased the line from them.
Kind of hard to read but this is what I have: Never really would have equated "Power Shift" to a single speed transmission myself, but there it is in print.
Think I've located a source for a rebuild kit for this reverser should it come to that. The vendor is located in Muncie, IN and lists a rebuild kit available on their website. Need to check for certainty however. The current installed oil seems like a transmission oil such as for a tractor. That is what I've dumped into the hydraulic system of this tractor so will pick up another pail today, top off the reverser, and see how it goes. Supposed to be sunny and break through the low 40's tomorrow and Wednesday so hopefully loose some snow and make a bit more progress. I would really like to get the tractor moved from it's current spot and out of the oil slick.
No luck using them as a vendor. I may call back and talk to somebody that know what the **** is going on there however as it's plainly listed in their offerings. I did find this auction for a complete transmission: https://www.truckandtrailer.co.za/machinery/forklifts-borg-warner-10-01-transmission-id-6387354 This is what I have but there are no tags as shown in those photos.
joseph industries may be able to help you. I had very good luck with them for transmission gears ---> https://www.joseph.com/ .
Thanks kindly. I had seen them right at five our time so was going to call tomorrow. I talked to another guy today also whom can reline my friction discs if need be but that doesn't address the rubber parts which are surely leaking, or bypassing internally. Here is the link I'd saved for follow up tomorrow: https://www.joseph.com/pdf/borg warner 0709.pdf
I pulled out a sample of oil through the filler hole to bring back home and get a look at when warm. It appears to be hydraulic oil of about 20wt, (ISO68) by appearance, feel, and smell. It is clean, used, and not burnt. I'm going to take a gallon of 20wt hydraulic oil, (ISO68) with me to top it off, allow the machine to warm, and see if it will then move under it's own power. Once home it will be drained and flushed with a fresh filter and fluids installed. As of now I don't know if it leaks, or is going to be operational but is low on oil level. In the prior posted link the external hydraulic line shown that wraps over the transmission assembly; this line from the case on the left side is the output to an external cartridge filter which outputs through the oil cooler up front and the oil flow returns along the right side of the tractor to the transmission. I don't see any active leaks in hoses or connections and nothing underneath is dripping. Only that access panel on the side of the reservoir is leaking anything at all. Given the prior owner's propensity to make purchases at Tractor Supply and such, it is probably their oil in the engine, and transmission. In my research I had found where literature stated ISO68 oil was acceptable to use in this transmission, but the specification was for Type "A" automatic transmission fluid.
Called the Joseph Co. this morning and spent 22 minutes on hold before hanging up. Never did get to talk to anybody except an auto answer system that let me know how important my call was to them; several times. I then sent an email with the pertinent information attached so hopefully I'll hear back shortly.
Your phone call results don't surprise me. They are really busy and I suppose that the coronavirus has crippled their ability to take calls in a timely manner. When I get put on an extended hold, I turn on the speaker phone and put the phone in my shirt packet and go about whatever I am doing. If you missed the phone extension list. Maybe it will help you.
Thank you. I did miss the directory and did much the same as you with the shirt pocket and speakerphone. I will call "Kelly" back shortly as have not heard back from my email.
Had to run down to the SOS, (DMV) office to renew the license plates I'd neglected to last month and stopped by the farm store picking up a two gallon jug of trans oil. Going to run by the tractor shortly and hopefully make some progress.
Well, progress if one wishes to call it that but I'm comfortable calling the shuttle "bad" at this time. I topped up the oil level and allowed the tractor to warm to operating temperature: The shuttle slips badly in both forward, and reverse, but is much stronger in reverse. I was almost able to get the tractor free of it's ruts from sinking using a combination of the loader bucket rollback, and engine power when the bucket curl handle snapped off in my hand: I'm done monkeying with it at this point and am going to haul it back to the shop tomorrow or Wednesday so I can get it inside. There are dual Wagner brake master cylinders and the one for the right side works well. The left appears to not have any fluid in the reservoir but I couldn't unscrew the aluminum cap from the cast iron reservoir to check not having a wrench that fit correctly. With the shuttle transmission topped up on oil it readily jumps into engagement but again is slipping terrible. I didn't smell anything burning or getting hot but no sense in punishing equipment either. I do think it would pull itself in a straight line but certainly not enough power to use the loader bucket as you'd never push in to a pile from what I've discovered. Given what I've discovered I do think I'll rebuild the shuttle and work with it. The engine runs very well starting easily, the range transmission and rear axle seem to function as they should so it's got good "bones". I'm not at all worried about hoses and seals given the age of the machine, but the hydraulics appear to be very strong so going to move on forward.
Received an email back from Joseph co. And they do have parts and kits available. They also attached a service manual so I can do some testing. I'll plumb up a couple of gauges into the ports and actually be able to ascertain what the problems are. Thanks,
Scanning through the manual it plainly identifies the porting for monitoring hydraulic pressures. A chart gives several variables dependent upon build. Once I forward them the numbers from the case tag, we can figure out how it was built. I pulled up the floorboard complete and there is a large oval riveted tag on top of the case but it's in rough shape and really can't be read as there is a structural member over the top of the transmission. I'll get a mirror or snake camera and figure it out. However, now I know system pressure, forward clutch apply, and reverse clutch apply pressures so if any of those are not in the proper range, it would be a dead givaway to internal leakage. I suspect this is the root cause of the problem with resultant friction clutches burning as secondary. Basically the same as an automatic transmission wears out if not catastrophic in nature. With the floorboard removed, it is clear to see the "inching" valve and how they disabled it with a bar and large spring keeping it closed at all times. If familiar with these things they allow the main clutches to be slightly "slipped" for maneuvering in close confinement while running the engine at high speed for fast hydraulic cycling. With a torque converter and clutch pressure internal dump via the brake master cylinder(s), it is unnecessary to have, so they disabled it. Everything is readily accessible with the floorboards removed. I'll photo all this stuff and post it but it's starting to rain now and if my phone senses moisture, it's down for the count for several hours so not going to chance it today. Very much to my surprise it is not greasy at all; not even with a two stroke Detroit in front, only dirty from years of use. The engine really is not a leaker that I've seen but I have no history. Again, it sure runs well. Given that I won't half ass a repair on this transmission, and once I ascertain the needed numbers from the tag for positive identification, I'll order a rebuild "Master" kit and torque converter from Joseph.
Talking with a former coworker whom is very familiar with shuttle transmissions in farm tractors and such. He insists I check the filter or pickup screen and ensure there is no debris fouling these before doing any testing. That of course makes sense and I've not opened the external filter canister yet but plan to today. I don't know if this is a cleanable screen, or a filter element but definitely a cartridge type affair. The suction screen is not accessible as the sump is part of the main case and the transmission needs broken into for any access. I did tell him the heating of the oil running though the line was even from exiting the transmission case, through the filter housing, and into the oil cooler in front of the radiator. We agree there is probably not an issue external to the transmission, but going to check that box off regardless before further testing. Raining today so not a lot going to get done but I do want to ascertain that filter assembly to get a replacement cartridge ordered if need be.
Pulled down the filter cartridge a while ago and it's oil was clean and there is some debris in the casing. It probably should have none but with no history it's a guessing game. I picked up a new element on the way home and will slip this one in tomorrow and give the tractor a trial run again. If the old filter is plugged a new one installed will serve to filter the oil as it circulates through the system and it's easy enough to change.
Temperature nosedived on Friday so didn't work with this at all on Saturday. Supposed to snow today and then begin a warming trend so sometime I'll get back to it. I noticed that left front tire is once again sporting that flat spot on the bottom side again. Don't know what's up with that yet, as didn't see any leaks with soap bubbles after installing the new valve stem. As of yesterday the front bucket is about three inches from the ground so continues to drop over the days. Friday it was about eight inches from the ground.
Finally did three laps around the machinery lot today. Dumping in two bottles of Lucas Transmission Fix seems to be helping as time goes on. Reverse worked at first but as temperature stabilized, it seemed to slip much worse. Shuttle trans is worn out for sure. First, and second gear are not attainable due to a half assed repair by someone in the past precluding the floor shifter from working correctly; hence I've been attempting to move this in third gear. I've discovered the linkage problem and will take my engine drive welder and torches over to clean up the excrement.
Need to backtrack on this just a bit as I'm now a believer in the Lucas product. With the gear selector both figured out, corrected for operation, and shuttle trans fluid changed with the Lucas Transmission Fix fluid installed, there are no problems with the shuttle operation. It will dig to China with a back tire if pushing into a pile in second speed gear. Both forward, and reverse operation are "smart" in function and I really don't detect any slippage at all. I did drain out just about a quart of water along with the gear oil in the Borg Warner T-18 range transmission too and that is why I couldn't move the shifter when freezing outside. There is no boot on the shift tower and it's open to atmosphere so rainwater and condensation over the years..... Picked up the rear swing cylinders yesterday from the hydraulics shop. One cylinder required a new rod and gland machined/bushed but they did a nice job. Known them for years and the gent didn't charge me for the gland and bushing work as I've both taken, and referred them so much work in the past. All other cylinders on this tractor appear to be dry. I was curling the loader bucket and the handle snapped off it's rotary mounting in my hand. I wasn't "honking" on it at all but it just had a couple of spot welds holding it together and they failed. I've soaked everything down pretty good for disassembly to facilitate a repair but the control recesses into the dashboard so not easy to reach. Installed a new 105A Chinese copy one wire Delco 10SI alternator which didn't work long out of the box. The vendor has another shipped already and glad it's an easy one to change. It did charge for about 45 seconds and went kaput, so probably just a regulator, but they wanted to replace it wholesale and not pay return freight. I have a spare regulator I'll incorporate into this at some point to ensure the unit is good, (or not) and possibly use for a ready spare.
"It will dig to China with a back tire if pushing into a pile in second speed gear." Pretty essential with a 2 wheel drive loader to loosen the pile before scooping, especially if there is no torque converter. I hated that aspect, after the first scoop tractor was trying to climb out of its self dug hole while trying to fill the bucket. Some have enough hydraulic power to scoop while the wheels don't push very hard.
There is a large pile of asphalt millings on that property that is a few years aged without being disturbed. Once I was able to get the tractor to move correctly I decided to test it out. I may have forced the issue with the fuel pump low output pressure doing this as that problem come to the forefront shortly thereafter.
Forgot I'd snapped this when the handle came off in my hand:
Looks like it has been cracked a long while before it broke. Am I seeing linkage easy to reach for a weld repair, or a PITA to access?
You can't really see it in the photo but it's about two inches recessed into the dash panel. No problem for a stick repair if could be reached but the shaft the collars this handle welds to is broken free from it's mountings on the right side of the tractor. Originally bolted, someone welded it, (badly) and it too has failed allowing the shaft to "woller" around. I'm going to take it all apart and repair it correctly. I think, (not certain) the shaft end was drilled and tapped bolting through the side of the tractor for support. Someone probably snapped it off and decided a weld would take care of it. Lot's of welding on this tractor for repairs too. I got a lot of the hardware to break free yesterday and hope to remove it all this afternoon.
Received the replacement 105A alternator today and will get this installed in the next few days. Vendor is very honest in business dealings and readily stood behind their product. I will patronize them again.
Hi, any new updates on your Backhoe resurrection? I have the same make/model. It's been fun reading this thread too.
I don't think that 1693TA is still with us. He disappeared very abruptly a while back. The online symptoms pointed to an unexpected passing . . .
I tried to find an obituary, but never did successfully. I found a name of his farmer cousin and a phone number, but never took the next step to make a call.