Hi ... Friend of mine has an early (i think ) 931. Runs and drives but hasnt been used in a couple years. Engine has the usual blowby when warmed up and if memory serves me correct the sprockets are past there prime. However it must find a new home and i offered him a rediculous price and he was okay with it. Havent really wanted one of these beasts but I already have a t5 inter and a ** 711 skid and boss has 555 ford hoe and so this would be the right age to fit. We have regular jobs so this is just hobby stuff. Anything i need to look for. Have no idea on this one,are they similar to a d3 of same year ?. wet or dry clutch (s). The good part is another retired friend has a shop full of parts and spares that he just wants to get rid of,pretty much said anything i need i can have. So if he has it and i need it ...life is good . Will try to post a pic and maybe someone has an idea of the year of it. Thinks Chris
Okay after reading all the responses...har de har har. I have found that the 931 is most likely the loader version of a D3. Not sure of age but guessing, built somewhere in the 70s? Has the 3204 cat engine with a massive 62 horses,weighing 16500 lbs. Should fit right in my yard. Is the roof on it a FOPS,dosent seem stout enough to be a ROPS. Controls look to be the same or very similar to the D3. Plowed a lot of snow (woods roads) with the D3,so should be able to at least drive the 931 around the yard with out crunching the wifes car. Ill post a few pics if i get to be the new owner. Im sure ill have more ? either way. Chris
Way too early for a 3204 I think.
Nope 3204 for sure, and dry clutches. jr
OK didn't know that
You got a good deal there,especially with the spare parts too... I dismantled a 931 (78U),& I think the fuel pump had 1973 on the tag. They are a good machine,but do a good service on the trans ,as they cost a lot to fix. I think they had a ROPS available. Jim
If you have the serial number plate still attached, go to this website and you should be able to find out the year - http://www.ironrecord.com/
I have a 931 78U0623 . Things to look for,,,,, Make sure if you start in on the undercarriage what flavor is on it. Mine had komatsu rails pads. I think the D31 has the same pitch, but the Komatsu pads won't fit a Cat rail or vice versa. Yes, it is basically a D-3 with a loader frame. The service manual has references to the D-3 as well as the 931 in almost all areas. Some parts are no longer available from Cat as they are discontinued. Example is the pinion gear in the final drive. The original changes up to a different gear and the newer geaar is not compatible with the bull gear. It's costly to replace them both. Go used. Hyd tubes that cross over under the floor for the lift and tilt,, some are available, some are not. Option there is to find a hyd shop that makes tubes and have them duplicated, or braze them. So far brazing has worked for me. Starter is a PIA Nippendenso. 600.00 from Cat for reman. This engine will not take dust. make sure your intake system is air tight. An often overlooked spot is the air cleaner service indictor. It can be cracked, or if it has been replaced with an either injection system there's room for loose connections. I could add more , pages, etc, but a good going over , changing all the lube, and checking for metal in the boxes will maybe save ya some dolars down the road. I have service manul and parts manual for this machine, so if ya need, PM me with questions. I'll help as I can.
hi there rigandig, i have a 931b that i found, i have been trying to fix it up, it was cheap so it has a lot of work needed. i have the parts book and operation man., but havent found a service manual, do you still have any service manual. thanks .
Wosama931b, I have the service manual for my machine. It covers , 08N1 -up, 10NJ1-up, 78U1-up, and 81U1-up. Not sure if your's fits in there, but if you have any questions I will look thru and get the answers for you. I don't have any service manuals I want to sell though. Snowshoveler, Looks like you may have a good deal there. Latch on to it if ya haven't already.
Snowshoveler, thats a nice little beast you have landed, also a neat size to play around on without a big fuel cost, might I just say that I think the tracks are facing the wrong direction, so when you are driving forwards you are sort of going backwards, but its still a load of fun.
rigandig, I want to put new clutches and brakes on my loader, should i jack up the loader to do this work. Any advice would be helpful. Thanks, wosama931b
Having had some experience with a D3 of the same vintage there's a few things to watch for. Make sure the fluid's are topped up at all times (especially transmission) you'll lose seals, and more if you don't... Make sure that there isn't fluid leaking on the starter (there's a hose right above it) and that starter is a pain to replace. You have to take the seloniod off AND take the belly pan off AND take the hydraulic hoses that run under the engine off. Then you have to wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle the starter until it drops out the bottom. So be careful on that. As long as it doesn't use TOO much oil I'd jump on it... It's a really nice size, I love our D3 if it weren't for the poor maintenance that it has endured and thus has a bunch of rough edges. (most of which we've rectified, but alas once they've started you can't really 'fix' it without major rebuild, ie blowby etc...) Good machine beyond that.
On your 931 , depending on your girth, (LOL) you may want to run it up on some blocks. would be better to raise it with jacks , or ever how ya can, and block under the front , tow hook is a good strong point, but makes for a 3 point landing when ya block under the back end on each side.You will need to have it off the ground to facilitate turnig the clutch/brake drum to remove the bolts that hold it in place. Here is what I can tell you from memory. Start by removing the seat, batteries and battery box. Then the steering/brake linkages. You will have to remove the floor panels to facilitate the linkage removal on the front end. It would be prudent to get the area you are about to open up as clean as possible before you go further. Next, I would loosen the hydraulic tank mounting bolts , taking the vertical ones out, leave the horizontal ones that are accessed from the outside at the bottom of the tank in, but as loose as you can get them. This allows you to have the tank supported but still able to move it to the right enough to facilitate getting the clutch assembly and brake band out. Next, remove the 4 bolts that hold the assy with the linkage for the brak/clutch where it goes thru the top of the case. Once those are out, you can get the cotter pin out of the clevis pin that attaches it to the internaal linkage. Next remove the bolts that hold the cover in place and remove the cover. Then look out side near the top of the final drive case for a pipe plug.It is situated in line with the ring of bolts that hold the brake drum to the flange. Once that plug is out you have to line each bolt up with that access hole and remove them. To line them up I have usually been able to use a wrench on one of the bolts from the inside to turn the drum. When you turn it , you are turning the track as well. Once all the bolts are romoved from the outboard side, remove the ones thaat are holding it to the inboard side. There are less of them and it is easier to turn at this point. Next remove the push rod from the slave cylinder for the steering. while you are this far in I would remove the slave cyl and re-seal it aalsso. It comes off with the removal of 4 bolts that are located to the outside of the machine. Next there are 4 bolts holding the bottom of the brake band in place. They are a pain to get at, but should come out. Once out, you can get the brake band loose from the bottom of the case , wrap the entire assy with a nylon strap, and using an engine hoist or what you have for lifting, and bring the brake band, drum, and steering clutch assy out and to the bench. This is all from memory, so someone else may want to chime in and correct me if I'm wrong or have left anything out. I do have the service manual and can get you all the specs from there if you need. Hope this helps
Thanks a bunch, i hope to get started after the power wash, and i will raise the loader about 6 inches. I though i may need to turn the sproket. I may have to get back up with you to ask a few more questions, i hope i can get her done with some advice. Thanks again rigandig.
Wosama, The part about the slave cyl might be misleading. The bolts that hold it in place are at it's base. On the outside there is an access hole where the slve cyl is bled from once it is reinstalled.
hi, rigandig, i'am glad you have a great memory, nothing speaks louder than experence. Was the pressure to bleed the slave cyl. from the pedal or hdy. pressure from the motor running??? And how long did it take to change out the brake and clutch, and did you have any help getting the clutch out ?? Thanks, wosama931b.
The bleeding takes place from pushing the pedal. When you push the pedal part way, it first facilitates releasing the clutch pack with hyd pressure to the slve cyl. Once the pedal is pushed all the way the brake is engaged . I had no help. How long it took me would not be a good gauge for anyone else to use. I work on something a little while, then go grease the next loudest wheel. If you were experienced and doing it as a paying job, had all your new parts on hand,and everything went well, I would think it could be done in 2 to 3 days. That is for both sides. So 1 to 1 1/2 day per side.
hey , rigandig, I havent had time yet to get to work on the clutch yet, but i washed it 2 times today. I think i will wash out the clutch top again after i get it jacked up. Ill keep you posted as i start getting in to the housing, More stuff later, wosama931b.