http://img515.imageshack.us/my.php?image=detroitdiesel85enginexe4.jpg http://img410.imageshack.us/my.php?image=detroitdieselenginestarfs2.jpg I was discussing this in another thread but it looks different. Thanks for the help. It is an 85 machine and about 80 hp. Where would the model serial number be? I know it was said to be on the flat area in the other thread but I seem to not set that area on mine. Thanks!
I'm pretty sure it's a 53 Series and I'm guessing a 3/53. The first number in a Detroit engine is the number of cylinders followed by the series number which is the cubic inches of one cylinder. If it's in a V configuration, a V would follow the number of cylinders before the series number as in 8V71.
I agree, it looks like a 53 series.
I want to find the serial number but yesterday I was in a rush so I could only spend 3-4 minutes. Then I can get a shop manual. I guess if 3 cylinders were 80 + - that is what I got. Thanks guys!
Well, it's kinda hard to tell by looking at the pics. Not the series, that is, it's a 53 series for sure, but how many cylinders. It's probably a 3 cyl, but it's hard to judge scale in the pics, could be a 2 cyl. If you could take a pic looking down at the exhaust manifold from the top we could tell. Your model and s/n should be stamped on that flat area on the block just below and to the left of the exhaust outlet from the manifold. Clean the flat area with a little sand paper and you should be able to see the numbers. The numbers on top will be the model number. It should look something like "5033-5102". The first number indicates it's a 53 series, the third number is the number of cylinders. The serial number is below the model number. If that's what you have, then you would call the engine a 3-53 as Steve stated earlier; the 3 indicating it's a three cylinder followed by 53 indicating the series.
Thanks I can carriage the boom assembly forward and look down at the motor exhaust:drinkup How many HP & torque did the 2 & 3 cylinders have respectively in 1985?
What model is the Lull? The newer ones around here all have Cummins motors the older B series usally have John Deere motors. I have a 1044B and it has A JD motor. My fathers boss has about 14 1044C and they all have Cummis motors.
Found a chart showing the Detroit models. Here's a link, ( http://www.endurancepower.com/media/CATALOG_DET.pdf ). Click the "engine identification" tab on the left and it shows you how the Detroit model number breaks down.
The type of valve cover is the definitive test. If there are hand knobs in the center of the valve cover it is a 71 series engine. If there are phillips head screws in the side of the valve cover it is a 53 series. No matter which series it is, there should be a plate on the side of the valve cover with a bunch of stamped numbers. That will tell the parts man everything they need to know identify the configuration. Many times those plates were mangled up or simply lost whenever the engine was rebuilt. It that case you are stuck taking parts to the parts man and they identify them by comparison. That plate will also have the horsepower ratings.
It is a '85 844. The 844's came with JD, Detroit, Duetz (sp?) never heard of one with a Cummins in the older 844. I have a 1044B also can't remember but I think it is a 1990 last digits in the SN is 108. I got it real cheap from Ring Rent in FL with 500 hr. + - it has JD turbo. The track the hoses run in inside the boom rubbed on the tube next to the boom extension cylinder. Bingo small hole so I had to take out the cylinder and weld it not a fun job I have been looking for a tower for years with no success Last I ask they wanted 12,000 for one from Lull. I have a 7C-1, three 844's and 1044B. They all had 50-500 hr. when I bought them except the one with the Detroit. Which had 5500 hr. I had a 1980 844 with a 318 Chrysler which I sold in 1990 so I could get the Detroit machine. I ended up with 6 grand in my pocket and got a 5 year newer machine with a diesel and the narrow carriage. The gasser had a wide carriage and for a mason it is a PITA. I was going to cut it and weld it to narrow it. Steering is bit wacky at times on the 1044B the wheels get out of sync especially when cold. Who is your father working for with all those machines? Are they masonry contractors? 1044C-54 are getting real cheap now . I always wanted a Gradall but may regret not having transverse feature. So a 944E has good visability also I would guess. Leary of machines with computers on them as the mechanic told me as soon as they get one the drop a new computer in it at the dealer. I have to look closely to see if the Detroit was rebuilt. The mason I bought it from had one of his machines rebuilt then they put in the wrong air filter and it was shot again on short order so he rebuilt it again. Any tips on looking to see if it was rebuilt? The only way I can have a hint is the paint or to see it it was ever pulled out but chances are slim I could tell I guess. Can you do a freshen up in the frame of the machine with out pulling it or better to just pull it? I think someone said it can be done.
thanks!:drinkup
I just had to have the boom cylindes repacked would not retract. Had to pull the 3 piece boom apart.My father worked for a larger Mason contractor in NJ He just retired last year. They must have had over 30 lulls and 1 Gehl. They never cared for gradells.
Been a while may be 93-94 but I think I pulled the cylinder out the rear? Don't remember pulling the boom apart. It took me two days work with a helper. PITA. I think the most any mason has on Long Island is about 24 machines but they are varied in year and model but all Lulls. He runs a crew of 350-400 but 50-60 now in slow times. How is work over in NJ? Are you a mason contractor? I tried the link but it didn't work for me. Googled it and it came up. We can bounce masonry idea and question off eac other if you like. I always wanted to make a masonry forum but never did. Gradalls seem to dominate the western states.
I did not do it myself sent to a hydraulic shop it , they puuled the boom sections apart I stoped by a couple times. i do a little of everything. Yes work is slow for the big mason contractors right now. My father boss has only one job going. At one point he had 300+ guys on payroll a week. I worked with him we did the AC convention center over (11) forklift, (2) 35 ton RT cranes and (1) hoist going just on that job. I think at one time had over 100 mason and 80 laborers just on that job.
I got so sick of business I mothballed my business and was running the outside operations of Kelly Masonry where we had 350-400 guys :Banghead I was there about year and a half then quit one day. I was renting him crap and it took 9 months to get paid. General contractors played him for a fool. He claimed he was making money and I told him if you are I know nothing about the masonry business and I have been in it since 1970 and in business since 1975 after my apprenticeship. I decide to go back to my own insanity where everything is under my control. When he made the offer in 98 in was 110 per year car benefits and 20% of the profit of a 15-20 million dollar company. Trouble is there was no profits and I expected a bill in my mail box soon. Secretaries clipped him for 300,000+ His one son was spoiled and lazy. The others were not that bad. They haven't done much in the past year I hear. Decent people but their heads are in the sand. I ask one of my employees if I should try it and he said yes you can always quit. Best advice I heard from him in the 18 years he worked for me.
Yes, you can do an in-frame without pulling the engine, I've done several. As long as you can get the oil pan off, and the crank is in good shape and doesn't need resurfacing. Replacing pistons/liners and having head work done is no problem. I suggest you find a Detroit mechanic, these things aren't like any other engine on the inside and experience matters in rebuilding them. Did you find your model and s/n stamped on the block?
Will not be avble to look for SN until tomorrow. Thanks for the tips.
The model and s/n are stamped on that flat spot on the block, that's all the info you need to obtain parts.
Starter went on it today so i took a look it is a 3 cylinder. 266 to rebuild starter. Screwed up my entire day as I could not get into my storage container for the tools I needed.
Darn the bad luck! Only good think about it...thieves couldn't get in it either! Doubt that helps much though. :drinkup
Yea I always pull the emergency cut off so it they don't know a Detroit they will just keep cranking it. Hoist piston seals are ready to blow soon. I can't keep up with fix'in crap! Just did the hoist pistons on the other machine and have one more after that to do. Then start on 12 steering cylinders!