I am not sure there are many things more hotly debated in the internet than paint. Im not trying to open up a can of worms, but I have an old Mustang Skid loader and a 710D backhoe id still like to give a nice paintjob before winter. Do any of you have any good experiences with any certain paint? I don't wish to spend a years salary and I don't really want rustoleum either. Something middle of the road? Im not hellbent on matching the factory color of either machine 100%. I just want to get close.
Caterpillar paint holds up about the best, in aerosols. Not sure if still made by Valspar. Definitely used to be.
At one point I shot paint for a living and some of the best mid range, single stage, non-catalyst stuff was from Sherwin-Williams industrial line. If you have an industrial supplier near you check out their offerings. They have some really durable equipment paint at reasonable prices. They also computer color match and usually hit really close on first try. Of course all depends on sample and user. If you get a commercial account the prices are much lower. Most I buy are around $70/gallon. Cat paint holds up pretty good, though I liked the older stuff better. The really older stuff with lead that is. The newest paint my local dealer says needs no primer. I say bull and use a non-catalyst PPG primer under it with half tint. Not a fan of Volvo paint. I really like PPG paint. Mostly because I have used a lot of it, have good feel for it and have a good supplier. Mostly use their catalyst paints on vehicles. Base and clear coat. Their JE Shopline paint is lower priced and still a really good paint that does have some single stage direct gloss offerings but does require catalyst. If you choose a big box store paint X-Orust is way better than rustoleum. Actually sprayed a cheapee trailer 5 years ago for a neighbor that still looks good. Really surprised. Whatever paint you choose the prep work is key to a long lasting job. I'll throw my 2 cents safety warning in here. If you use a catalyst paint be sure to use a proper supplied air respirator. Some people will tell you don't need anything but read up on isocyanate hardener and decide for yourself.
Ct, can you explain what good prep work looks like? I'm planning to hit any rust or flaking paint spots with a wire brush or wheel to knock any of that junk off, then what, a hose down to get it clean, then dry, prime, and paint? Is there anything missing?
In a perfect world you start with bare metal but that is not really needed in many cases if the old paint is not flaking and peeling. Do it for cars and such where you want a flawless surface. Usually start with a good power wash to get the grease and dirt gone. Then assorted wire brushes to get the rust and flaking paint. Angle grinder works good for this part. Be careful with cup type wheels they can glaze paint over and makes things worse. I usually then give everything a quick sanding with the DA just to break any glaze on the old paint and smooth any rough edges around chips. After that a quick wipe with naphtha (if you can still buy it) or any pre-paint wipe down to remove remaining junk and dirt. Then prime and top coat according to directions on your paint of choice. I may very, very lightly hand sand the prime coat. A few things to note. Look close at peeling chipped paint areas. The paint can be lifted a lot further than what you see. Scrap em with a putty knife or other object. Leaving them risks peeling paint soon. If you sand blast be sure to degrease really good first. Blasting will drive junk right into the surface of the metal and make it really hard to get good adhesion. Wire brush can do the same if you don't clean well before brushing. Regardless of what anyone says, use a primer. The paint job will last much longer. The whole idea is to get a solid clean surface.
Phosphoric acid etcher is a good procedure for some circumstances.
Ya, like to use phosphoric prep on auto chassis frames after sandblasting. Just need to be sure to rinse well. I like hot water rinse if available. Helps it dry quicker. Less chance of flash rusting.
Thanks Ct, I'll keep this in mind when I start!
We have had really good luck with Nasson acrylic enamel paint . https://www.johnsonautobodysupply.com/Axalta-Nason-FastDry-Acrylic-Enamel-414-XXXX.html We ordered it though the local Car Quest dealer . Painted equipment and trucks with it . Pretty happy with the way it holds up . Used a Wagner gun to blow on the new color . https://www.wagnerspraytech.com/products/paint-sprayers/flexio-590-paint-sprayer/
It seems every paint product you buy is different than it was 5 years ago. Not getting any better either.
Those look great td25c!
I like flex seal, LOL!! I'd link to the ad id question, but it might get me thrown offa here! just do a youtube search for flex seal dub!
I find that krylon has a nice flavor with a clean finish
-Try Magnet paint it is costly but goes on great and holds up well.
If you want cheap, go to your local farm store and get tractor paint. Brands like valspar or rustoleum or in house brand. And buy the little can of enamel hardener, which will make the paint dry faster and harder. Last few machines i painted I used sherwin williams high solids polyurethane with hardener. Cost was around 150 though for the gallon of paint and quart of hardener. But that paint is chemical and oil resistant when dry. Pretty tough stuff.
150 a gallon? Whoa!
I ended up going with a Sherwin Williams industrial enamel. It was only about 60 dollars a gallon. It went on decent. Time will tell how it holds up. Attached are before and after pictures.
Looks very good!!
Time to get her dirty again
I usually use Caterpillar and paint sprayer Graco Magnum . The quality is excellent.
Not that you could get it in the US, but I personally like Cloverdale Speed Enamel. Here are some before and after shots of my latest project.