Owner of the implement dealership I help out has a D2 tractor which has never had a blade on it, and was used to pull farming equipment. Belonged to his grandfather whom we're told purchased it new. It is complete best I can tell and been in a storage barn almost 40 years without moving. The engine is free, as is the pony engine. It really hasn't had any care in those years and just sets. The owner would like to see if I can get it to run again. It was driven and parked where it is setting so not blown up or anything like that. The tags are on the tractor so I can get numbers if that would help anything. Thanks,
I went to a farm years ago to start a D4 that was used to do farm work. The mag on its pony motor need remagnetized when it started there was a truck there to haul it off to a new owner.
Year of manufacture. Unusual configuration if any. If the dealer who sold it is still in business, maybe a little more. Ask over on ACMOC with the serial number.
The selling dealer, "Peoria Tractor" has been gone almost 50 years and Altorfer is atrocious for/with information unless in their computer, and relatively new. It's a neat little tractor and I'd like to cart it to some local shows. I'm certain it would fire off with a bit of work. I'll check over at the ACMOC site if I can remember my credentials over there. Thanks kindly,
Some things to think about before you try to start her in no particular order. Crack the drain plug on diesel engine oil pan to remove water (condensation) that's accumulated over the years. Same thing for transmission and finals. Steering clutches are dry. Not sure if you have the dry or oil clutch. Replace diesel fuel filters. You may need to add 2-3lbs of air pressure to the diesel fuel tank to help the fuel through the system to regain fuel pressure. I'd stick with green Prestone type coolant and avoid any of the newer stuff. If it is good for a 1693, it's good for a D311. If you drain the coolant, you have to burp the air out of the pony cooling system as they share the same coolant. Failure to do this will result in an overheated pony and risk a cracked head. Hopefully the steering clutches are still free. That's the D2-s achillies heel. Get a manual and add some lube to the water pump and assorted lube cups topside. Grease the water pump lightly. One or two pumps. Check the injection pump. Your biggest problem will be the pony fuel system, then the mag and plugs. It likes to dump gas into the pony engine oil through the fuel shut off valve. Drain and replace pony engine oil before trying to turn her over. You may have to clean the fuel tank and carb. There's a small aluminum fuel filter in the fuel bowl that may need to be blown out. Check for oil in the starter pinion. There's more I'm missing, like pony electrical, which I leave for another day. Once you get her running, you can change out all the engine oil, filters and gear oil, etc. If the steering clutches are free, she'll almost be good to go. Sounds like she still has original paint and decals which are worth keeping intact.
Thank you and yes, it is all original with even the original seat covering that is deteriorated. I've just rolled the engine and pony motors over by pulling on the fan blade, and the rope start sheave. I don't know if the pony is electric starting or not. I also felt the starting clutch and pinion "snap" finding both working as they should, (I think). It was pulled up on 2X10 planks many years ago and has sat in the same spot since, being covered by a tarp. It's not covered now and I don't know how long that's been but the tractor is still inside the pole building. I think they still have the original manuals but I can't say with absolute certainty. I've been watching youtube videos on these things and have learned a lot from that. Especially the sequence to starting the diesel engine. I will crack the drain plugs as you say as anything will sweat and water goes to the low point of the sump(s). I did look into the radiator last summer and the system is full with green coolant. I also pulled on the steer clutch handles and could feel the spring pressure but don't know if the discs are stuck, nor if the brakes actuated, but I'll soon find out.
You may have inadvertently engaged "snapped" the starter pinion so that the pony is now coupled to the diesel. If this is the case, when you turn the pony, the diesel will also turn. You won't be able to start her if the the pinion is engaged. More on this later if you find the pinion engaged.
I returned all handles including the compression release back to where they were. It felt like when I moved the handles something was actuating. I tried the pony engine first finding it free, then the handles, then the main engine fan was turned. I assume the pony engine is disengaged as the rope slot in the pull start sheave was in the same place and not rotated any after I'd pulled the main engine around. I think the compression release was working as when I had it pulled to the open position, the engine pulled around much easier than when closed. When it was closed I could feel cylinders coming up on compression and could not in the open position. I was able to get logged onto the ACMOC site this morning but haven't got anything yet to post. My screen name there is the same here: 1693TA. I'll attempt to get by today and grab some photos but not certain yet. Thanks,
If the pony and main motor turn freely of each other, you're ok. You probably felt the pinion pushing out and released it before the dogs snapped into place.